vessel is brought up within reach of the creature's trunk； and down it comes； like a musquito's proboscis； right through the deck； in at the open aperture of the hole； and so into the very vitals and bowels of the ship。 When there； it goes to work upon its food with a greed and an avidity that is disgusting to a beholder of any taste or imagination。 And now I must explain the anatomical arrangement by which the elevator still devours and continues to devour； till the corn within its reach has all been swallowed； masticated； and digested。 Its long trunk； as seen slanting down from out of the building across the wharf and into the ship； is a mere wooden pipe； but this pipe is divided within。 It has two departments； and as the grain…bearing troughs pass up the one on a pliable band； they pass empty down the other。 The system； therefore； is that of an ordinary dredging machine only that corn and not mud is taken away； and that the buckets or troughs are hidden from sight。 Below； within the stomach of the poor bark； three or four laborers are at work； helping to feed the elevator。 They shovel the corn up toward its maw； so that at every swallow he should take in all that he can hold。 Thus the troughs； as they ascend； are kept full； and when they reach the upper building they empty themselves into a shoot； over which a porter stands guard； moderating the shoot by a door； which the weight of his finger can open and close。 Through this doorway the corn runs into a measure； and is weighed。 By measures of forty bushels each； the tale is kept。 There stands the apparatus； with the figures plainly marked； over against the porter's eye； and as the sum mounts nearly up to forty bushels he closes the door till the grains run thinly through； hardly a handful at a time； so that the balance is exactly struck。 Then the teller standing by marks down his figure； and the record is made。 The exact porter touches the string of another door； and the forty bushels of corn run out at the bottom of the measure； disappear down another shoot； slanting also toward the water； and deposit themselves in the canal boat。 The transit of the bushels of corn from the larger vessel to the smaller will have taken less than a minute； and the cost of that transit will have beena farthing。 But I have spoken of the rivers of wheat； and I must explain what are those rivers。 In the working of the elevator； which I have just attempted to describe； the two vessels were supposed to be lying at the same wharf on the same side of the building； in the same water； the smaller vessel inside the larger one。 When this is the case the corn runs direct from the weighing measure into the shoot that communicates with the canal boat。 But there is not room or time for confining the work to one side of the building。 There is water on both sides； and the corn or wheat is elevated on the one side； and reshipped on the other。 To effect this the corn is carried across the breadth of the building； but； nevertheless； it is never handled or moved in its direction on trucks or carriages requiring the use of men's muscles for its motion。 Across the floor of the building are two gutters； or channels； and through these； small troughs on a pliable band circulate very quickly。 They which run one way； in one channel； are laden； they which return by the other channel are empty。 The corn pours itself into these； and they again pour it into the shoot which commands the other water。 And thus rivers of corn are running through these buildings night and day。 The secret of all the motion and arrangement consists； of course； in the elevation。 The corn is lifted up； and when lifted up can move itself and arrange itself； and weigh itself； and load itself。 I should have stated that all this wheat which passes through Buffalo comes loose； in bulk。 Nothing is known of sacks or bags。 To any spectator at Buffalo this becomes immediately a matter of course； but this should be explained； as we in England are not accustomed to see wheat traveling in this open； unguarded； and plebeian manner。 Wheat with us is aristocratic； and travels always in its private carriage。 Over and beyond the elevators there is nothing specially worthy of remark at Buffalo。 It is a fine city； like all other American cities of its class。 The streets are broad； the 〃blocks〃 are high； and cars on tramways run all day； and nearly all night as well。
CHAPTER XII。 BUFFALO TO NEW YORK。
We had now before us only two points of interest before we should reach New Yorkthe Falls of Trenton； and West Point on the Hudson River。 We were too late in the year to get up to Lake George； which lies in the State of New York north of Albany； and is； in fact； the southern continuation of Lake Champlain。 Lake George； I know； is very lovely； and I would fain have seen it； but visitors to it must have some hotel accommodation； and the hotel was closed when we were near enough to visit it。 I was in its close neighborhood three years since； in June； but then the hotel was not yet opened。 A visitor to Lake George must be very exact in his time。 July and August are the monthswith； perhaps； the grace of a week in September。 The hotel at Trenton was also closed； as I was told。 But even if there were no hotel at Trenton； it can be visited without difficulty。 It is within a carriage drive of Utica； and there is； moreover； a direct railway from Utica； with a station at the Trenton Falls。 Utica is a town on the line of railway from Buffalo to New York via Albany； and is like all the other towns we had visited。 There are broad streets； and avenues of trees； and large shops； and excellent houses。 A general air of fat prosperity pervades them all； and is strong at Utica as elsewhere。 I remember to have been told； thirty years ago； that a traveler might go far and wide in search of the picturesque without finding a spot more romantic in its loveliness than Trenton Falls。 The name of the river is Canada Creek West； but as that is hardly euphonious； the course of the water which forms the falls has been called after the town or parish。 This course is nearly two miles in length； and along the space of this two miles it is impossible to say where the greatest beauty exists。 To see Trenton aright； one must be careful not to have too much water。 A sufficiency is no doubt desirable； and it may be that at the close of summer； before any of the autumnal rains have fallen； there may occasionally be an insufficiency。 But if there be too much； the passage up the rocks along the river is impossible。 The way on which the tourist should walk becomes the bed of the stream； and the great charm of the place cannot be enjoyed。 That charm consists in descending into the ravine of the river； down amid the rocks through which it has cut its channel； and in walking up the bed against the stream； in climbing the sides of the various falls； and sticking close to the river till an envious block is reached which comes sheer down into the water and prevents farther progress。 This is nearly two miles above the steps by which the descent is made； and not a foot of this distance but is wildly beautiful。 When the river is very low there is a pathway even beyond that block； but when this is the case there can hardly be enough of water to make the fall satisfactory。 There is no one special cataract at Trenton which is in itself either wonderful or pre…eminently beautiful。 It is the position； form； color； and rapidity of the river which gives the charm。 It runs through a deep ravine； at the bottom of which the water has cut for itself a channel through the rocks； the sides of which rise sometimes with the sharpness of the walls of a stone sarcophagus。 They are rounded； too； toward the bed as I have seen the bottom of a sarcophagus。 Along the side of the right bank of the river there is a passage which； when the freshets come； is altogether covered。 This passage is sometimes very narrow； but in the narrowest parts an iron chain is affixed into the rock。 It is slippery and wet； and it is well for ladies； when visiting the place； to be provided with outside India…rubber shoes； which keep a hold upon the stone。 If I remember rightly； there are two actual cataractsone not far above the steps by which the descent is made into the channel； and the other close under a summer…house； near to which the visitors reascend into the wood。 But these cataracts； though by no means despicable as cataracts； leave comparatively a slight impression。 They tumble down with sufficient violence and the usual fantastic disposition of their forces； but simply as cataracts within a day's journey of Niagara； they would be nothing。 Up beyond the summer… house the passage along the river can be continued for another mile； but it is rough； and the climbing in some places rather difficult for ladies。 Every man； however； who has the use of his legs should do it； for the succession of rapids； and the twistings of the channels； and the forms of the rocks are as wild and beautiful as the imagination can desire。 The banks of the river are closely wooded on each side； and though this circumstance does not at first seem to add much to the beauty； seeing that the ravine is so deep that the absence of wood above would hardly be noticed； still there are broken clefts ever and anon through which the colors of the foliage show themselves； and straggling boughs and rough roots break through the rocks here and there； and add to the wildness and charm of the whole。 The walk back from the summer…house through the wood is very lovely； but it would be a disappointing walk to visitors who had been prevented by a flood in the river from coming up the channel； for it indicates plainly how requisite it is that the river should be seen from below and not from above。 The best view of the larger fall itself is that seen from the wood。 And here again I would point out that any male visitor should walk the channel of the river up and down。 The descent is too slippery and difficult for bipeds laden with petticoats。 We found a small hotel open at Trenton； at which we got a comfortable dinner； and then in the evening were driven back to Utica。 Albany is the capital of the State of New York； and our road from Trenton to West Point lay t