Along the way； every once in a while； we came upon people squatted down behind small stocks of sugarcane； yams； bananas； and the like。 With these our boys did a brisk trade。 Little paths led mysteriously into the jungle。 Down them came more savages to greet us。 Everybody was most friendly and cheerful； thanks to Horne's personal influence。 Two years before this same lot had been hostile。 From every hidden village came the headmen or chiefs。 They all wanted to shake hands…the ordinary citizen never dreamed of aspiring to that honour…and they all spat carefully into their palms before they did so。 This all had to be done in passing； for ordinary village headmen it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein。 Once only we broke over this rule。 That was in the case of an old fellow with white hair who managed to get so tangled up in the shrubbery that he could not get to us。 He was so frantic with disappointment that we made an exception and waited。
About three miles out； we lost one of our newly acquired totos。 Reason： an exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the purpose of reclaiming his runaway offspring。 The latter was dragged off howling。 Evidently he； like some of his civilized cousins； had 〃run away to join the circus。〃 As nearly as we could get at it； the rest of the totos； as well as the nine additional we picked up before we quitted the jungle； had all come with their parents' consent。 In fact； we soon discovered that we could buy any amount of good sound totos； not house broke however； for an average of half a rupee （16…1/2 cents） apiece。
The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges that star…fish out from Mt。 Kenia。 We would climb down steep trails from 200 to 800 feet （measured by aneroid）； cross an excellent mountain stream of crystalline dashing water； and climb out again。 The trails of course had no notion of easy grades。 It was very hard work； especially for men with loads； and it would have been impossible on account of the heat were it not for the numerous streams。 On the slopes and in the bottoms were patches of magnificent forest； on the crests was the jungle； and occasionally an outlook over extended views。 The birds and the strange tropical big…leaved trees were a constant delight…exotic and strange。 Billy was in a heaven of joy； for her specialty in Africa was plants； seeds and bulbs； for her California garden。 She had syces； gunbearers and tent boys all climbing； shaking branches； and generally pawing about。
This idiosyncracy of Billy's puzzled our boys hugely。 At first they tried telling her that everything was poisonous； but when that did not work； they resigned themselves to their fate。 In fact； some of the most enterprising like Memba Sasa； Kitaru； and； later； Kongoni used of their own accord to hunt up and bring in seeds and blossoms。 They did not in the least understand what it was for； and it used to puzzle them hugely until out of sheer pity for their uneasiness； I implied that the Memsahib collected 〃medicine。〃 That was rational； so the wrinkled brow of care was smoothed。 From this botanical trait； Billy got her native name of 〃Beebee Kooletta〃…〃The Lady Who Says： Go Get That。〃 For in Africa every white man has a name by which he is known among the native people。 If you would get news of your friends； you must know their local cognomens…their own white man names will not do at all。 For example； I was called either Bwana Machumwani or Bwana N'goma。 The former means merely Master Four…eyes； referring to my glasses。 The precise meaning of the latter is a matter much disputed between myself and Billy。 An N'goma is a native dance； consisting of drum poundings； chantings； and hoppings around。 Therefore I translate myself （most appropriately） as the Master who Makes Merry。 On the other hand； Billy； with true feminine indirectness； insists that it means 〃The Master who Shouts and Howls。〃 I leave it to any fairminded reader。
About the middle of the morning we met a Government runner； a proud youth； young； lithe； with many ornaments and bangles； his red skin glistening； the long blade of his spear； bound around with a red strip to signify his office； slanting across his shoulder； his buffalo hide shield slung from it over his back； the letter he was bearing stuck in a cleft stick and carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross to the heathen…in the pictures。 He was swinging along at a brisk pace； but on seeing us drew up and gave us a smart military salute。
At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance； we were riding in an absolute solitude。 Suddenly from the jungle on either side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women。 They were dressed in grass skirts； and carried long narrow wooden shields painted white and brown。 These they clashed together； shrieked shrilly； and charged down on us at full speed。 When within a few yards of our horses noses they came to a sudden halt； once more clashed their shields； shrieked； turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs could carry them。 At a hundred yards they repeated the performance； and charged back at us again。 Thus advancing and retreating； shrieking high； hitting the wooden shields with resounding crash； they preceded our slow advance for a half mile or so。 Then at some signal unperceived by us they vanished abruptly into the jungle。 Once more we rode forward in silence and in solitude。 Why they did it I could not say。
Of this tissue were our days made。 At noon our boys plucked us each two or three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on。 Then we dozed through the hot hours in great comfort； occasionally waking to blue sky through green trees； or to peer idly into the tangled jungle。 At two o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly and move on。 The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before。 In this country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our men。
The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could pitch camp。 Generally this was atop a ridge； so that the boys had some distance to carry water； but that disadvantage was outweighed by the cleared space。 Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of jungle。 Again we enjoyed a broad outlook。 One such in especial took in the magnificent； splintered； snow…capped peak of Kenia on the right； a tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead； and a great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left。 It was as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine。
Our tents pitched； and ourselves washed and refreshed； we gave audience to the resident chief； who had probably been waiting。 With this potentate we conversed affably； after the usual expectoratorial ceremonies。 Billy； being a mere woman； did not always come in for this； but nevertheless she maintained what she called her 〃quarantine gloves；〃 and kept them very handy。 We had standing orders with our boys for basins of hot water to be waiting always behind our tents。 After the usual polite exchanges we informed the chief of our needs…firewood； perhaps； milk； a sheep or the like。 These he furnished。 When we left we made him a present of a few beads； a knife； a blanket or such according to the value of his contribution。
To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our many experiences； for each man differed radically from every other in his conceptions of ceremony； in his ideas； and in his methods。 Our coming was a good deal of an event； always； and each chief； according to his temperament and training； tried to do things up properly。 And in that attempt certain basic traits of human nature showed in the very strongest relief。 Thus there are three points of view to take in running any spectacle： that of the star performer； the stage manager； or the truly artistic。 We encountered well…marked specimens of each。 I will tell you about them。
The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly； and in the exposition of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly basic are the principles of stagecraft anywhere。
We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our lunch。 Before us appeared two tall and slender youths； wreathed in smiles； engaging； and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy。 We returned their greeting from our recumbent positions； whereupon they made preparation to squat down beside us。
〃Are you sultans？〃 we demanded sternly； 〃that you attempt to sit in Our Presence；〃 and we lazily kicked the nearest。
Not at all abashed； but favourably impressed with our transcendent importance…as we intended…they leaned gracefully on their spears and entered into conversation。 After a few trifles of airy persiflage they got down to business。
〃This；〃 said they； indicating the tiny flat； 〃is the most beautiful place to camp in all the mountains。〃
We doubted it。
〃Here is excellent water。〃
We agreed to that。
〃And there is no more water for a journey。〃
〃You are liars；〃 we observed politely。
〃And near is the village of our chief； who is a great warrior； and will bring you many presents； the greatest man in these parts。〃
〃Now you're getting to it；〃 we observed in English； 〃you want trade。〃 Then in Swahili； 〃We shall march two hours longer。〃
After a few polite phrases they went away。 We finished lunch； remounted； and rode up the trail。 At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide clearing； at the farther side of which was evidently the village in question。 But the merry villagers； down to the last toro； were drawn up at the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode。 They were very wealthy savages； and wore it all。 Bright neck； arm； and leg ornaments； yards and yards of cowry shells in strings； blue beads of all sizes （blue beads were evidently 〃in〃）； odd scraps and shapes of embroidered skins； clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized this holiday gathering。 We made our royal progress between the serried ranks。 About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last villager…just the proper dramatic pause； you observe…the bushes parted and a splendid； straight； springy young man came into view and stepped smilingly across the space that separated us。 And about eight or ten seconds after