Victoria Level will have been reclaimed for purposes of
agriculture。
CHAPTER XIV。
SOUTHEY'S TOUR IN THE HIGHLANDS。
While Telford's Highland works were in full progress; he persuaded
his friend Southey; the Poet Laureate; to accompany him on one of
his visits of inspection; as far north as the county of Sutherland;
in the autumn of 1819。 Mr。 Southey; as was his custom; made careful
notes of the tour; which have been preserved;*'1' and consist in a
great measure of an interesting resume of the engineer's operations
in harbour…making; road…making; and canal…making north of the Tweed。
Southey reached Edinburgh by the Carlisle mail about the middle of
August; and was there joined by Mr。 Telford; and Mr。 and Mrs。
Rickman;*'2' who were to accompany him on the journey。 They first
proceeded to Linlithgow; Bannockburn;*'3' Stirling; Callendar; the
Trosachs; and round by the head of Loch Earn to Killin; Kenmore;
and by Aberfeldy to Dunkeld。 At the latter place; the poet admired
Telford's beautiful bridge; which forms a fine feature in the
foreground of the incomparable picture which the scenery of Dunkeld
always presents in whatever aspect it is viewed。
From Dunkeld the party proceeded to Dundee; along the left bank of
the Firth of Tay。 The works connected with the new harbour were in
active progress; and the engineer lost no time in taking his friend
to see them。 Southey's account is as follows:
〃Before breakfast I went with Mr。 Telford to the harbour; to look
at his works; which are of great magnitude and importance: a huge
floating dock; and the finest graving dock I ever saw。 The town
expends 70;000L。 on these improvements; which will be completed in
another year。 What they take from the excavations serves to raise
ground which was formerly covered by the tide; but will now be of
the greatest value for wharfs; yards; &c。 The local authorities
originally proposed to build fifteen piers; but Telford assured
them that three would be sufficient; and; in telling me this; he
said the creation of fifteen new Scotch peers was too strong a
measure。。。。
〃Telford's is a happy life; everywhere making roads; building
bridges; forming canals; and creating harboursworks of sure;
solid; permanent utility; everywhere employing a great number of
persons; selecting the most meritorious; and putting them forward
in the world in his own way。〃
After the inspection at Dundee was over; the party proceeded on
their journey northward; along the east coast:
〃Near Gourdon or Bervie harbour; which is about a mile and a half
on this side the town; we met Mr。 Mitchell and Mr。 Gibbs; two of
Mr。 Telford's aides…de…camp; who had come thus far to meet him。 The
former he calls his 'Tartar;' from his cast of countenance; which
is very much like a Tartar's; as well as from his Tartar…like mode
of life; for; in his office of overseer of the roads; which are
under the management of the Commissioners; he travels on horseback
not less than 6000 miles a year。 Mr。 Telford found him in the
situation of a working mason; who could scarcely read or write; but
noticing him for his good conduct; his activity; and his firm
steady character; he; has brought him forward; and Mitchell now
holds a post of respectability and importance; and performs his
business with excellent ability。〃
After inspecting the little harbour of Bervie; one of the first
works of the kind executed by Telford for the Commissioners; the
party proceeded by Stonehaven; and from thence along the coast to
Aberdeen。 Here the harbour works were visited and admired:
〃The quay;〃 says Southey; 〃is very fine; and Telford has carried
out his pier 900 feet beyond the point where Smeaton's terminated。
This great work; which has cost 100;000L。; protects the entrance
of the harbour from the whole force of the North Sea。 A ship was
entering it at the time of our visit; the Prince of Waterloo。
She had been to America; had discharged her cargo at London; and we
now saw her reach her own port in safetya joyous and delightful
sight。〃
The next point reached was Banff; along the Don and the line of the
Inverury Canal:
〃The approach to Banff is very fine;〃*'4' says Southey; 〃by the
Earl of Fife's grounds; where the trees are surprisingly grown;
considering how near they are to the North Sea; Duff House
a square; odd; and not unhandsome pile; built by Adams (one of the
Adelphi brothers); some forty years ago; a good bridge of seven
arches by Smeaton; the open sea; not as we had hitherto seen it;
grey under a leaden sky; but bright and blue in the sunshine; Banff
on the left of the bay; the River Doveran almost lost amid banks of
shingle; where it enters the sea; a white and tolerably high shore
extending eastwards; a kirk; with a high spire which serves as a
sea…mark; and; on the point; about a mile to the east; the town of
Macduff。 At Banff; we at once went to the pier; about half finished;
on which 15;000L。 will be expended; to the great benefit of this
clean; cheerful; and active little town。 The pier was a busy
scene; hand…carts going to and fro over the railroads; cranes at
work charging and discharging; plenty of workmen; and fine masses
of red granite from the Peterhead quarries。 The quay was almost
covered with barrels of herrings; which women were busily employed
in salting and packing。〃
The next visit was paid to the harbour works at Cullen; which were
sufficiently advanced to afford improved shelter for the fishing
vessels of the little port:
〃When I stood upon the pier at low water;〃 says Southey; 〃seeing
the tremendous rocks with which the whole shore is bristled; and
the open sea to which the place is exposed; it was with a proud
feeling that I saw the first talents in the world employed by the
British Government in works of such unostentatious; but great;
immediate; palpable; and permanent utility。 Already their excellent
effects are felt。 The fishing vessels were just coming in; having
caught about 300 barrels of herrings during the night。。。。
〃However the Forfeited Estates Fund may have been misapplied in
past times; the remainder could not be better invested than in
these great improvements。 Wherever a pier is needed; if the people
or the proprietors of the place will raise one…half the necessary
funds; Government supplies the other half。 On these terms;
20;000L。 are expending at Peterhead; and 14;000L。 at Frazerburgh;
and the works which we visited at Bervie and Banff; and many other
such along this coast; would never have been undertaken without
such aid; public liberality thus inducing private persons to tax
themselves heavily; and expend with a good will much larger sums
than could have been drawn from them by taxation。〃
From Cullen; the travellers proceeded in gigs to Fochabers; thence
by Craigellachie Bridge; which Southey greatly admired; along
Speyside; to Ballindalloch and Inverallen; where Telford's new road
was in course of construction across the moors towards Forres。
The country for the greater part of the way was a wild waste; nothing
but mountains and heather to be seen; yet the road was as perfectly
made and maintained as if it had lain through a very Goschen。
The next stages were to Nairn and Inverness; from whence then
proceeded to view the important works constructed at the crossing
of the River Beauly:
〃At Lovat Bridge;〃 says Southey; 〃we turned aside and went four
miles up the river; along the Strathglass roadone of the new
works; and one of the most remarkable; because of the difficulty of
constructing it; and also because of the fine scenery which it
commands。。。。。
〃Lovat Bridge; by which we returned; is a plain; handsome structure
of five arches; two of 40 feet span; two of 50; and the centre one
of 60。 The curve is as little as possible。 I learnt in Spain to
admire straight bridges; But Mr。 Telford thinks there always ought
to be some curve to enable the rain water to run off; and because
he would have the outline look like the segment of a large circle;
resting on the abutments。 A double line over the arches gives a
finish to the bridge; and perhaps looks as well; or almost as well;
as balustrades; for not a sixpence has been allowed for ornament on
these works。 The sides are protected by water…wings; which are
embankments of stone; to prevent the floods from extending on
either side; and attacking the flanks of the bridge。〃
Nine miles further north; they arrived at Dingwall; near which a
bridge similar to that at Beauly; though wider; had been constructed
over the Conan。 From thence they proceeded to Invergordon; to
Ballintraed (where another pier for fishing boats was in progress);
to Tain; and thence to Bonar Bridge; over the Sheir; twenty…four
miles above the entrance to the Dornoch Frith; where an iron
bridge; after the same model as that of Craigellachie; had been
erected。 This bridge is of great importance; connecting as it does
the whole of the road traffic of the northern counties with the
south。 Southey speaks of it as
〃A work of such paramount utility that it is not possible to look
at it without delight。 A remarkable anecdote;〃 he continues;
〃was told me concerning it。 An inhabitant of Sutherland; whose
father was drowned at the Mickle Ferry (some miles below the bridge)
in 1809; could never bear to set foot in a ferry…boat after the
catastrophe; and was consequently cut off from communication with
the south until this bridge was built。 He then set out on a journey。
'As I went along the road by the side of the water;' said he;
'I could see no bridge。 At last I came in sight of something
like a spider's web in the air。 If this be it; thought I; it will
never do! But; presently; I came upon it; and oh! it is the finest
thing that ever was made by God or man!'〃
Sixteen miles north…east of Bonar Bridge; Southey cr
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