。 The pink effect is made by burning the sand。 Only a man like Guerin； a painter； would have thought of that detail。 I wonder how many visitors down there know that the very sand they walk on has been colored。〃
Around the Tower pigeons were flying； somehow relieving the mechanical outlines。 Was the disproportion between the great arch； forming a kind of pedestal； and the outlines above due to mathematical miscalculation or to the interference of the ornamentation？ We finally decided that the proportions had probably been right in the first place。 But they had been changed by the Exposition authorities' cutting the Tower down one hundred feet； thereby saving 100；000。 A matter of this kind could be reduced almost to an exact science。 Besides； though the ornamentation interfered with the upward sweep of line； the effect of flatness was made by those horizontal blocks which seemed to be piled up to the top。 If the outline had been clean； it would have achieved the soaring effect so essential to an inspiring tower； creating the sense of reaching up to the sky； like an invocation。
Thomas Hastings had a sound idea when he made that design。 He wanted to do something Expositional； exactly as Guerin did when he applied the coloring。 Now there were critics who said that the coloring was too pronounced。 It reminded them of the theater。 Well； that was just what it ought to remind them of。 It had life； gaiety； abandon。 The critic who said that the orange domes provided just the right tone； and that this tone ought to have been followed throughout； didn't make sufficient allowance for public taste。 He wanted the Exposition to be an impressionistic picture in one key。 But one key was exactly what Guerin didn't want。 His purpose was to catch the excitement in variety of color as well as the warmth； to stimulate the mind。 He succeeded in adapting his color scheme to architecture that had breadth and dignity。 At first he expected to use orange； blue； and gold； carefully avoiding white。 He did avoid white； but he expanded his color scheme and included brown and yellow and green。 But； in that tower； Hastings did something out of harmony with the architecture； something barbaric and crude。
Here and there the bits of Austrian cut glass were sparkling on the tower like huge diamonds。 〃At times the thing is wonderfully impressive。 There's always something impressive about a mass if it has any kind of uniformity； and here you can detect an intention on the part of the architect。 There are certain lights that have a way of dressing up the tower as a whole； giving it unity and hiding its ugliness。 And at all times it has a kind of barbaric splendor。 It might have come out of an Aztec mind； rather childish in expression； and seeking for beauty in an elemental way。 I can imagine Aztecs living up there in a barbaric fashion； their houses piled； one above another； like our uncivilized apartment houses。〃
In studying the Tower of Jewels in detail； we decided that it was not really so crude as it seemed on first sight。 Much might be done even now by a process of elimination。 And the arch was magnificent。 〃In its present condition the tower unquestionably provides a strong accent。 It has already become a dominating influence here。 But it's an influence that teaches people to feel and to think in the wrong way。 It encourages a liking for what I call messy art； instead of developing a taste for the simplicity that always characterizes the best kind of beauty； the kind that develops naturally out of a central idea。〃
From the Tower of Jewels we turned our attention to those other towers； the four so charming in design and in proportion； Renaissance in feeling； their simplicity seeming all the more graceful on account of the contrast with the other tower's over…ornamentation。 〃I wonder what the world would have done without the Giralda Tower in Seville？ It has inspired many of the most beautiful towers in the world。 It helped to inspire McKim； Mead and White when they built the Madison Square Tower； and the Madison Square Tower might be described as a relative of our own Ferry Tower； which is decidedly one of the best pieces of architecture in San Francisco。 And it's plain enough that these four towers and the Ferry Tower are related。 The top of the four towers； by the way； has a history。 It comes from the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates； the little temple in Athens that was built by one of the successful chorus…leaders in the competitive choral dances of the Greeks； who happened to be a man of wealth。 Afterward； when a chorus…leader won a prize； which consisted of a tripod； it was shown to the people on that monument。〃
〃Some critics；〃 I said； 〃have complained of the coloring and the pattern on those towers。〃
〃They can't justify themselves； however。 Though this plaster looks like Travertine； it nevertheless remains plaster； and it lends itself to plastic decoration。 The Greeks and the Romans often used plaster； and they did not hesitate to paint it whenever they chose。 Kelham's four towers have been criticised on account of their plastic design； which has a good deal of pink in it。 But that design provides one of the strongest color notes in the whole Exposition； a delightful note； too。 It happens that makers of wallpaper have had the good sense to use a design somewhat similar。 But this fact does not make the design any the less attractive or serviceable。〃
Between the houses on the hill we could catch glimpses of the South Gardens between the glass dome of the Horticultural Palace and Festival Hall。 The architects rightly felt that in general appearance they had to be French to harmonize with the French architecture on either side。 In the distance the Fountain of Energy stood out； like a weird skeleton that did not wholly explain itself。 Stirling Calder； the sculptor； must have forgotten that the outline of those little symbolic figures perched on the shoulder of his horseman would not carry their meaning。
Now； before our eyes； the Exposition revealed itself as a picture； with all the arts contributing。 It suggested the earlier periods of art； when the art…worker was architect； painter and sculptor all in one。
II
The Approach
〃You see；〃 said the architect as we started down the hill； 〃when the Exposition builders began their work they found the setting of the Mediterranean here。 It justified them in reproducing the art of the Orient and of Greece and Rome which was associated with it； modified of course to meet the special requirements。 Besides； they didn't want to be tied down to the severe type of architecture in vogue in this country。〃
First of all； he went on to explain； they had created a playground。 There they appealed to the color sense； strong in the Italians and the Orientals； and weak among the people in this country； decidedly in need of fostering； and the appeal was not merely to the intellect； but to the emotions as well。 Color was as much a part of architecture as of painting。 So； in applying the color； Guerin worked with the architects。 He never made a plan without taking them into consultation。 Then； too； Calder； acting head of the Department of Sculpture； and Denneville； the inventor of the particular kind of imitation Travertine marble used on the grounds； were active in all the planning。 In fact； very little was done without the co…operation of Guerin； Calder； Denneville and Kelham； chief of the Architectural Board。 In getting the Exposition from paper to reality； they had succeeded in making it seem to be the expression of one mind。 Even in the development of the planting the architects had their say。 Here landscape gardening was actually a part of the architecture。 Faville's wall； for example； was built with the understanding that its bareness was to be relieved with masses of foliage； creating shadows。
Before the Scott Street entrance we paused to admire the high hedge of John McLaren。 We went close to examine the texture。 The leaves of the African dewplant were so thick that they were beginning to hide the lines between the boxes。
〃Faville realized the importance of separating the city from the rest of the world； making it sequestered。 He knew that a fence wouldn't be the right sort of thing。 So he conceived the idea of having a high； thick wall； modeled after an old English wall； overgrown with moss and ivy。 As those walls were generations in growing； he saw that to produce one in a few months or even a few years required some ingenuity。 He set to work on the problem and he devised a scheme for making an imitation hedge by planting ivy in deep boxes and piling the boxes on one another。 When he submitted it to McLaren he was told that it was good except for the use of the ivy。 It would be better to use African dew plant。 Later McLaren improved on the scheme by using shallow boxes。
〃Faville designed a magnificent entrance here；〃 the architect went on； glancing up at the three modest arches that McLaren had tried to make as attractive as possible with his hedge。 〃It would have been very appropriate。 But the need of keeping down expenses caused the idea to be sacrificed。 However； the loss was not serious。 As a matter of fact； in spite of the efforts of the Exposition to persuade visitors to come in here； a great many preferred to enter by the Fillmore Street gate。 During the day this approach is decidedly the more attractive on account of leading directly into the gardens and into the approach to the court。 The Fillmore Street entrance； with the Zone shrieking at you at one side； hardly puts you in the mood for the beauty in the courts。 At night the situation is somewhat different。 The flaring lights of the Zone make the dimness of the court all the more attractive。〃
III
In the South Gardens
Though the arrangement of the landscape might be French； these flowers were unmistakably Californian。 The two pools； ornamented with the Arthur Putnam fountain of the mermaid； in duplicate； decidedly French in feeling； were brilliant with the reflected coloring from both the flowers and the buildings。
The intention at first had been to make a sunken garden here； but the underground construction had interfered。 Now one might catch a suggestion of Versailles； except for those lamp posts。 〃Joseph Penn