It always amuses me when I ask a friend if she is going abroad in
the spring； to have her say 〃Hush！〃 with a frightened glance
towards the door。
〃I am； but I do not want the servants to know； or the horrid things
would leave me！〃
Poor； simple lady！ They knew it before you did； and had discussed
the whole matter over their 〃tea〃 while it was an almost unuttered
thought in your mind。 If they have not already given you notice；
it is because； on the whole your house suits them well enough for
the present； while they look about。 Do not worry your simple soul；
trying to keep anything from them。 They know the amount of your
last dressmaker's bill； and the row your husband made over it。
They know how much you would have liked young 〃Croesus〃 for your
daughter； and the little tricks you played to bring that marriage
about。 They know why you are no longer asked to dine at Mrs。
Swell's； which is more than you know yourself。 Mrs。 Swell
explained the matter to a few friends over her lunch…table
recently； and the butler told your maid that same evening； who was
laughing at the story as she put on your slippers！
Before we blame them too much； however； let us remember that they
have it in their power to make great trouble if they choose。 And
considering the little that is made in this way； we must conclude
that； on the whole； they are better than we give them credit for
being； and fill a trying situation with much good humor and
kindliness。 The lady who is astonished that they take so little
interest in her； will perhaps feel differently if she reflects how
little trouble she has given herself to find out their anxieties
and griefs； their temptations and heart…burnings； their material
situation； whom they support with their slowly earned wages； what
claims they have on them from outside。 If she will also reflect on
the number of days in a year when she is 〃not herself；〃 when
headaches or disappointments ruffle her charming temper； she may
come to the conclusion that it is too much to expect all the
virtues for twenty dollars a month。
A little more human interest； my good friends； a little more
indulgence； and you will not risk finding yourself in the position
of the lady who wrote me that last summer she had been obliged to
keep open house for 〃'Cook' tourists！〃
CHAPTER 22 … An English Invasion of the Riviera
WHEN sixty years ago Lord Brougham； EN ROUTE for Italy； was thrown
from his travelling berline and his leg was broken； near the
Italian hamlet of Cannes； the Riviera was as unknown to the polite
world as the centre of China。 The GRAND TOUR which every young
aristocrat made with his tutor； on coming of age； only included
crossing from France into Italy by the Alps。 It was the occurrence
of an unusually severe winter in Switzerland that turned Brougham
aside into the longer and less travelled route VIA the Corniche；
the marvellous Roman road at that time fallen into oblivion； and
little used even by the local peasantry。
During the tedious weeks while his leg was mending； Lord Brougham
amused himself by exploring the surrounding country in his
carriage； and was quick to realize the advantages of the climate；
and appreciate the marvellous beauty of that coast。 Before the
broken member was whole again； he had bought a tract of land and
begun a villa。 Small seed； to furnish such a harvest！ To the
traveller of to…day the Riviera offers an almost unbroken chain of
beautiful residences from Marseilles to Genoa。
A Briton willingly follows where a lord leads； and Cannes became
the centre of English fashion； a position it holds to…day in spite
of many attractive rivals； and the defection of Victoria who comes
now to Cimiez； back of Nice； being unwilling to visit Cannes since
the sudden death there of the Duke of Albany。 A statue of Lord
Brougham； the 〃discoverer〃 of the littoral； has been erected in the
sunny little square at Cannes； and the English have in many other
ways； stamped the city for their own。
No other race carry their individuality with them as they do。 They
can live years in a country and assimilate none of its customs； on
the contrary； imposing habits of their own。 It is just this that
makes them such wonderful colonizers； and explains why you will
find little groups of English people drinking ale and playing golf
in the shade of the Pyramids or near the frozen slopes of
Foosiyama。 The real inwardness of it is that they are a dull race；
and； like dull people despise all that they do not understand。 To
differ from them is to be in the wrong。 They cannot argue with
you； they simply know； and that ends the matter。
I had a discussion recently with a Briton on the pronunciation of a
word。 As there is no 〃Institute；〃 as in France； to settle matters
of this kind； I maintained that we Americans had as much authority
for our pronunciation of this particular word as the English。 The
answer was characteristic。
〃I know I am right；〃 said my Island friend； 〃because that is the
way I pronounce it！〃
Walking along the principal streets of Cannes to…day； you might
imagine yourself （except for the climate） at Cowes or Brighton； so
British are the shops and the crowd that passes them。 Every
restaurant advertises 〃afternoon tea〃 and Bass's ale； and every
other sign bears a London name。 This little matter of tea is
particularly characteristic of the way the English have imposed a
taste of their own on a rebellious nation。 Nothing is further from
the French taste than tea…drinking； and yet a Parisian lady will
now invite you gravely to 〃five o'clocker〃 with her； although I can
remember when that beverage was abhorred by the French as a
medicine； if you had asked a Frenchman to take a cup of tea； he
would have answered：
〃Why？ I am not ill！〃
Even Paris （that supreme and undisputed arbiter of taste） has
submitted to English influence； tailor…made dresses and low…heeled
shoes have become as 〃good form〃 in France as in London。 The last
two Presidents of the French Republic have taken the oath of office
dressed in frock…coats instead of the dress clothes to which French
officials formerly clung as to the sacraments。
The municipalities of the little Southern cities were quick to
seize their golden opportunity； and everything was done to detain
the rich English wandering down towards Italy。 Millions were spent
in transforming their cramped； dirty； little towns。 Wide
boulevards bordered with palm and eucalyptus spread their sunny
lines in all directions； being baptized PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS or
BOULEVARD VICTORIA； in artful flattery。 The narrow mountain roads
were widened； casinos and theatres built and carnival FETES
organized； the cities offering 〃cups〃 for yacht… or horse…races；
and giving grounds for tennis and golf clubs。 Clever Southern
people！ The money returned to them a hundredfold； and they lived
to see their wild coast become the chosen residence of the
wealthiest aristocracy in Europe； and the rocky hillsides blossom
into terrace above terrace of villa gardens； where palm and rose
and geranium vie with the olive and the mimosa to shade the white
villas from the sun。 To…day； no little town on the coast is
without its English chapel； British club； tennis ground； and golf
links。 On a fair day at Monte Carlo； Nice； or Cannes； the
prevailing conversation is in English； and the handsome； well…
dressed sons of Albion lounge along beside their astonishing
womankind as thoroughly at home as on Bond Street。
Those wonderful English women are the source of unending marvel and
amusement to the French。 They can never understand them； and small
wonder； for with the exception of the small 〃set〃 that surrounds
the Prince of Wales； who are dressed in the Parisian fashion； all
English women seem to be overwhelmed with regret at not being born
men； and to have spent their time and ingenuity since； in trying to
make up for nature's mistake。 Every masculine garment is twisted
by them to fit the female figure； their conversation； like that of
their brothers； is about horses and dogs； their hats and gloves are
the same as the men's； and when with their fine； large feet in
stout shoes they start off； with that particular swinging gait that
makes the skirt seem superfluous； for a stroll of twenty miles or
so； Englishwomen do seem to the uninitiated to have succeeded in
their ambition of obliterating the difference between the sexes。
It is of an evening； however； when concealment is no longer
possible； that the native taste bursts forth； the Anglo…Saxon
standing declared in all her plainness。 Strong is the contrast
here； where they are placed side by side with all that Europe holds
of elegant； and well…dressed Frenchwomen； whether of the 〃world〃 or
the 〃half…world；〃 are invariably marvels of fitness and freshness；
the simplest materials being converted by their skilful touch into
toilettes； so artfully adapted to the wearer's figure and
complexion； as to raise such 〃creations〃 to the level of a fine
art。
An artist feels； he must fix on canvas that particular combination
of colors or that wonderful line of bust and hip。 It is with a
shudder that he turns to the British matron； for she has probably；
for this occasion； draped herself in an 〃art material；〃 …
principally 〃Liberty〃 silks of dirty greens and blues （aesthetic
shades！）。 He is tempted to cry out in his disgust： 〃Oh； Liberty！
Liberty！ How many crimes are committed in thy name！〃 It is one of
the oddest things in the world that the English should have elected
to live so much in France； for there are probably nowhere two
peoples so diametrically opposed on every point； or who so
persistently and wilfully misunderstand each