hand from mine； and moves solemnly away。 I remember once to have
stopped in the street with a fair countrywoman of mine to
interrogate a little figure in sabots；the one quaint object in
the long； formal perspective of narrow； gray bastard…Italian
facaded houses of a Rhenish German Strasse。 The sweet little
figure wore a dark…blue woollen petticoat that came to its knees；
gray woollen stockings covered the shapely little limbs below； and
its very blonde hair； the color of a bright dandelion； was tied in
a pathetic little knot at the back of its round head； and garnished
with an absurd green ribbon。 Now； although this gentlewoman's
sympathies were catholic and universal； unfortunately their
expression was limited to her own mother…tongue。 She could not
help pouring out upon the child the maternal love that was in her
own womanly breast； nor could she withhold the 〃baby…talk〃 through
which it was expressed。 But； alas！ it was in English。 Hence
ensued a colloquy； tender and extravagant on the part of the elder；
grave and wondering on the part of the child。 But the lady had a
natural feminine desire for reciprocity； particularly in the
presence of our emotion…scorning sex； and as a last resource she
emptied the small silver of her purse into the lap of the coy
maiden。 It was a declaration of love； susceptible of translation
at the nearest cake…shop。 But the little maid； whose dress and
manner certainly did not betray an habitual disregard of gifts of
this kind； looked at the coin thoughtfully； but not regretfully。
Some innate sense of duty； equally strong with that of being polite
to strangers； filled her consciousness。 With the utterly
unexpected remark that her father 'did not allow her to take money'；
the queer little figure moved away； leaving the two Americans
covered with mortification。 The rare American child who could have
done this would have done it with an attitude。 This little German
bourgeoise did it naturally。 I do not intend to rush to the
deduction that German children of the lower classes habitually
refuse pecuniary gratuities： indeed； I remember to have wickedly
suggested to my companion； that； to avoid impoverishment in a
foreign land； she should not repeat the story nor the experiment。
But I simply offer it as a fact； and to an American； at home or
abroad； a novel one。
I owe to these little figures another experience quite as strange。
It was at the close of a dull winter's day；a day from which all
out…of…door festivity seemed to be naturally excluded： there was a
baleful promise of snow in the air and a dismal reminiscence of it
under foot； when suddenly； in striking contrast with the dreadful
bleakness of the street； a half dozen children； masked and
bedizened with cheap ribbons； spangles； and embroidery； flashed
across my Spion。 I was quick to understand the phenomenon。 It was
the Carnival season。 Only the night before I had been to the great
opening masquerade；a famous affair； for which this art…loving
city is noted； and to which strangers are drawn from all parts of
the Continent。 I remember to have wondered if the pleasure…loving
German in America had not broken some of his conventional shackles
in emigration； for certainly I had found the Carnival balls of the
〃Lieder Kranz Society〃 in New York； although decorous and
fashionable to the American taste； to be wild dissipations compared
with the practical seriousness of this native performance； and I
hailed the presence of these children in the open street as a
promise of some extravagance； real； untrammelled； and characteristic。
I seized my hat andOVERCOAT；a dreadful incongruity to the
spangles that had whisked by； and followed the vanishing figures
round the corner。 Here they were re…enforced by a dozen men and
women； fantastically； but not expensively arrayed； looking not
unlike the supernumeraries of some provincial opera troupe。
Following the crowd； which already began to pour in from the
side…streets； in a few moments I was in the broad； grove…like allee；
and in the midst of the masqueraders。
I remember to have been told that this was a characteristic annual
celebration of the lower classes； anticipated with eagerness； and
achieved with difficulty； indeed； often only through the
alternative of pawning clothing and furniture to provide the means
for this ephemeral transformation。 I remember being warned； also；
that the buffoonery was coarse； and some of the slang hardly fit
for 〃ears polite。〃 But I am afraid that I was not shocked at the
prodigality of these poor people； who purchased a holiday on such
hard conditions； and； as to the coarseness of the performance； I
felt that I certainly might go where these children could。
At first the masquerading figures appeared to be mainly composed of
young girls of ages varying from nine to eighteen。 Their costumes
if what was often only the addition of a broad； bright…colored
stripe to the hem of a short dress could be called a COSTUMEwere
plain； and seemed to indicate no particular historical epoch or
character。 A general suggestion of the peasant's holiday attire
was dominant in all the costumes。 Everybody was closely masked。
All carried a short； gayly…striped baton of split wood； called a
Pritsche； which； when struck sharply on the back or shoulders of
some spectator or sister…masker； emitted a clattering； rasping
sound。 To wander hand in hand down this broad allee； to strike
almost mechanically； and often monotonously； at each other with
their batons； seemed to be the extent of that wild dissipation。
The crowd thickened。 Young men with false noses； hideous masks；
cheap black or red cotton dominoes； soldiers in uniform； crowded
past each other； up and down the promenade； all carrying a
Pritsche； and exchanging blows with each other； but always with the
same slow seriousness of demeanor； which； with their silence； gave
the performance the effect of a religious rite。 Occasionally some
one shouted： perhaps a dozen young fellows broke out in song； but
the shout was provocative of nothing； the song faltered as if the
singers were frightened at their own voices。 One blithe fellow；
with a bear's head on his fur…capped shoulders； began to dance；
but； on the crowd stopping to observe him seriously； he apparently
thought better of it； and slipped away。 Nevertheless； the solemn
beating of Pritschen over each other's backs went on。 I remember
that I was followed the whole length of the allee by a little girl
scarcely twelve years old； in a bright striped skirt and black
mask； who from time to time struck me over the shoulders with a
regularity and sad persistency that was peculiarly irresistible to
me； the more so； as I could not help thinking that it was not half
as amusing to herself。 Once only did the ordinary brusque
gallantry of the Carnival spirit show itself。 A man with an
enormous pair of horns； like a half…civilized satyr； suddenly
seized a young girl and endeavored to kiss her。 A slight struggle
ensued； in which I fancied I detected in the girl's face and manner
the confusion and embarrassment of one who was obliged to overlook；
or seem to accept； a familiarity that was distasteful； rather than
be laughed at for prudishness or ignorance。 But the incident was
exceptional。 Indeed； it was particularly notable to my American
eyes to find such decorum where there might easily have been the
greatest license。 I am afraid that an American mob of this class
would have scarcely been as orderly and civil under the
circumstances。 They might have shown more humor； but there would
have probably been more effrontery： they might have been more
exuberant； they would certainly have been drunker。 I did not
notice a single masquerader unduly excited by liquor： there was not
a word or motion from the lighter sex that could have been
construed into an impropriety。 There was something almost pathetic
to me in this attempt to wrest gayety and excitement out of these
dull materials； to fight against the blackness of that wintry sky；
and the stubborn hardness of the frozen soil； with these painted
sticks of wood； to mock the dreariness of their poverty with these
flaunting raiments。 It did not seem like them； or rather；
consistent with my idea of them。 There was incongruity deeper than
their bizarre externals； a half…melancholy； half…crazy absurdity in
their action； the substitution of a grim spasmodic frenzy for
levity； that rightly or wrongly impressed me。 When the increasing
gloom of the evening made their figures undistinguishable； I turned
into the first cross…street。 As I lifted my hat to my persistent
young friend with the Pritsche； I fancied she looked as relieved as
myself。 If； however； I was mistaken； if that child's pathway
through life be strewn with rosy recollections of the unresisting
back of the stranger American； if any burden； O Gretchen！ laid upon
thy young shoulders； be lighter for the trifling one thou didst lay
upon mine；know； then； that I； too； am content。
And so； day by day； has my Spion reflected the various changing
forms of life before it。 It has seen the first flush of spring in
the broad allee； when the shadows of tiny leaflets overhead were
beginning to checker the cool； square flagstones。 It has seen the
glare and fulness of summer sunshine and shadow； the flying of
November gold through the air； the gaunt limbs； and stark； rigid；
death…like whiteness of winter。 It has seen children in their
queer； wicker baby…carriages； old men and women； and occasionally
that grim usher of death； in sable cloak and cocked hat；a baleful
figure for the wandering invalid tourist to meet；who acts as
undertaker for this ducal city； and marshals the last melancholy
procession。 I well remember my first meeting with this ominous
functionary。 It was an early autumnal morning； so early； that the
long formal perspective of the allee； and the decorous； smooth
vanishing…lines of cream…and…gray fronted houses； were unrelieved
by a single human figure。 Suddenly a tall black spectre； as
theatrical and as unreal as the painted scenic distance； turned the
corner from a cross…street； and moved slowly towards me。 A long
black cloak； falling from