brantome； and his cap had double rows of rubies that threw out a great light。 charles of england had ridden in stirrups hung with four hundred and twenty…one diamonds。 richard ii had a coat； valued at thirty thousand marks； which was covered with balas rubies。 hall described henry viii； on his way to the tower previous to his coronation； as wearing 〃a jacket of raised gold； the placard embroidered with diamonds and other rich stones； and a great bauderike about his neck of large balasses。〃 the favourites of james i wore ear…rings of emeralds set in gold filigrane。 edward ii gave to piers gaveston a suit of red…gold armour studded with jacinths； a collar of gold roses set with turquoise…stones； and a skull…cap parsem茅 with pearls。 henry ii wore jewelled gloves reaching to the elbow； and had a hawk…glove sewn with twelve rubies and fifty…two great orients。 the ducal hat of charles the rash； the last duke of burgundy of his race； was hung with pear…shaped pearls and studded with sapphires。
how exquisite life had once been！ how gorgeous in its pomp and decoration！ even to read of the luxury of the dead was wonderful。
then he turned his attention to embroideries and to the tapestries that performed the office of frescoes in the chill rooms of the northern nations of europe。 as he investigated the subject and he always had an extraordinary faculty of being absolutely absorbed for the moment in whatever he took uphe was almost saddened by the reflection of the ruin that time brought on beautiful and wonderful things。 he； at any rate； had escaped that。 summer followed summer； and the yellow jonquils bloomed and died many times； and nights of horror repeated the story of their shame； but he was unchanged。 no winter marred his face or stained his flowerlike bloom。 how different it was with material things！ where had they passed to？ where was the great crocus…coloured robe； on which the gods fought against the giants； that had been worked by brown girls for the pleasure of athena？ where the huge velarium that nero had stretched across the colosseum at rome； that titan sail of purple on which was represented the starry sky； and apollo driving a chariot drawn by white； gilt…reined steeds？ he longed to see the curious table…napkins wrought for the priest of the sun； on which were displayed all the dainties and viands that could be wanted for a feast； the mortuary cloth of king chilperic； with its three hundred golden bees； the fantastic robes that excited the indignation of the bishop of pontus and were figured with 〃lions； panthers； bears； dogs； forests； rocks； huntersall； in fact； that a painter can copy from nature〃； and the coat that charles of orleans once wore； on the sleeves of which were embroidered the verses of a song beginning 〃madame； je suis tout joyeux；〃 the musical acpaniment of the words being wrought in gold thread； and each note； of square shape in those days； formed with four pearls。 he read of the room that was prepared at the palace at rheims for the use of queen joan of burgundy and was decorated with 〃thirteen hundred and twenty…one parrots； made in broidery； and blazoned with the kings arms； and five hundred and sixty…one butterflies； whose wings were similarly ornamented with the arms of the queen； the whole worked in gold。〃 catherine de m茅dicis had a mourning…bed made for her of black velvet powdered with crescents and suns。 its curtains were of damask； with leafy wreaths and garlands； figured upon a gold and silver ground； and fringed along the edges with broideries of pearls； and it stood in a room hung with rows of the queens devices in cut black velvet upon cloth of silver。 louis xiv had gold embroidered caryatides fifteen feet high in his apartment。 the state bed of sobieski； king of poland； was made of smyrna gold brocade embroidered in turquoises with verses from the koran。 its supports were of silver gilt； beautifully chased； and profusely set with enamelled and jewelled medallions。 it had been taken from the turkish camp before vienna； and the standard of mohammed had stood beneath the tremulous gilt of its canopy。
and so； for a whole year； he sought to accumulate the most exquisite specimens that he could find of textile and embroidered work； getting the dainty delhi muslins； finely wrought with gold…thread palmates and stitched over with iridescent beetles wings； the dacca gauzes； that from their transparency are known in the east as 〃woven air；〃 and 〃running water；〃 and 〃evening dew〃； strange figured cloths from java； elaborate yellow chinese hangings； books bound in tawny satins or fair blue silks and wrought with fleurs…de…lys； birds and images； veils of lacis worked in hungary point； sicilian brocades and stiff spanish velvets； georgian work； with its gilt coins； and japanese foukousas； with their green…toned golds and their marvellously plumaged birds。
he had a special passion； also； for ecclesiastical vestments； as indeed he had for everything connected with the service of the church。 in the long cedar chests that lined the west gallery of his house； he had stored away many rare and beautiful specimens of what is really the raiment of the bride of christ； who must wear purple and jewels and fine linen that she may hide the pallid macerated body that is worn by the suffering that she seeks for and wounded by self…inflicted pain。 he possessed a gorgeous cope of crimson silk and gold…thread damask； figured with a repeating pattern of golden pomegranates set in six…petalled formal blossoms； beyond which on either side was the pine…apple device wrought in seed…pearls。 the orphreys were divided into panels representing scenes from the life of the virgin； and the coronation of the virgin was figured in coloured silks upon the hood。 this was italian work of the fifteenth century。 another cope was of green velvet； embroidered with heart…shaped groups of acanthus…leaves； from which spread long…stemmed white blossoms； the details of which were picked out with silver thread and coloured crystals。 the morse bore a seraphs head in gold…thread raised work。 the orphreys were woven in a diaper of red and gold silk； and were starred with medallions of many saints and martyrs； among whom was st。 sebastian。 he had chasubles； also； of amber…coloured silk； and blue silk and gold brocade； and yellow silk damask and cloth of gold； figured with representations of the passion and crucifixion of christ； and embroidered with lions and peacocks and other emblems； dalmatics of white satin and pink silk damask； decorated with tulips and dolphins and fleurs…de…lys； altar frontals of crimson velvet and blue linen； and many corporals； chalice…veils； and sudaria。 in the mystic offices to which such things were put； there was something that quickened his imagination。
for these treasures； and everything that he collected in his lovely house； were to be to him means of forgetfulness； modes by which he could escape； for a season； from the fear that seemed to him at times to be almost too great to be borne。 upon the walls of the lonely locked room where he had spent so much of his boyhood； he had hung with his own hands the terrible portrait whose changing features showed him the real degradation of his life； and in front of it had draped the purple…and…gold pall as a curtain。 for weeks he would not go there； would forget the hideous painted thing； and get back his light heart； his wonderful joyousness； his passionate absorption in mere existence。 then； suddenly； some night he would creep out of the house； go down to dreadful places near blue gate fields； and stay there； day after day； until he was driven away。 on his return he would sit in front of the her times； with that pride of individualism that is half the fascination of sin； and smiling with secret pleasure at the misshapen shadow that had to bear the burden that should have been his own。
after a few years he could not endure to be long out of england； and gave up the villa that he had shared at trouville with lord henry； as well as the little white walled…in house at algiers where they had more than once spent the winter。 he hated to be separated from the picture that was such a part of his life； and was also afraid that during his absence some one might gain access to the room； in spite of the elaborate bars that he had caused to be placed upon the door。
he was quite conscious that this would tell them nothing。 it was true that the portrait still preserved； under all the foulness and ugliness of the face； its marked likeness to himself； but what could they learn from that？ he would laugh at any one who tried to taunt him。 he had not painted it。 what was it to him how vile and full of shame it looked？ even if he told them； would they believe it？
yet he was afraid。 sometimes when he was down at his great house in nottinghamshire； entertaining the fashionable young men of his own rank who were his chief panions； and astounding the county by the wanton luxury and gorgeous splendour of his mode of life； he would suddenly leave his guests and rush back to town to see that the door had not been tampered with and that the picture was still there。 what if it should be stolen？ the mere thought made him cold with horror。 surely the world would know his secret then。 perhaps the world already suspected it。
for； while he fascinated many； there were not a few who distrusted him。 he was very nearly blackballed at a west end club of which his birth and social position fully entitled him to bee a member； and it was said that on one occasion； when he was brought by a friend into the smoking…room of the churchill； the duke of berwick and another gentleman got up in a marked manner and went out。 curious stories became current about him after he had passed his twenty…fifth year。 it was rumoured that he had been seen brawling with foreign sailors in a low den in the distant parts of whitechapel； and that he consorted with thieves and coiners and knew the mysteries of their trade。 his extraordinary absences became notorious； and； when he used to reappear again in society； men would whisper to each other in corners； or pass him with a sneer； or look at him with cold searching eyes； as though they were determined to discover his secret。
of such insolences and attempted slights he； of co