suspended above the doorway of a house as a talisman or safeguard to the
family within： the idea thus expressed； 〃As the plant never dies； may
your family last for ever。〃 We got rid of the old hag and her smoky
offering； and she became lost in the crowd which thronged around us；
this was composed of the ugliest； dirtiest； shortest； and most repulsive
lot of females that I ever saw： it was painful to look at them。
There was a general complaint that the silkworms had deteriorated； and
that the mulberry…trees had suffered from a disease which had killed
great numbers。 It appeared to me that the decay of the trees was a
sufficient reason for the inferiority of the silkworms。 This was a
serious loss to the inhabitants； as Rizo…Carpas was celebrated both for
the quality and quantity of its silk…production。
From the watershed a few hundred yards behind our camp we had a good
view of the northern coast below； which extended in a series of rocky
bays and prominent points to the west； while the entire country from the
shore to the rising ground formed a rich picture of caroub…trees and
plots of cultivation。 The hills upon which we stood； about 450 feet
above the sea； were the continuations of the long Carpas range； where
the force of the upheaval had become expended towards the east。 As we
looked westward the line of hills gradually heightened； until the
well…known points of the compact limestone were clearly distinguished
among the rugged outlines of the greater altitudes。
There was nothing of interest to induce a longer stay in Rizo…Carpas；
therefore we started on the following morning upon our return journey；
and after a lovely march of twenty miles； partly along an elevated
plateau which commanded a view of both seas north and south； and then
descending some 700 or 800 feet by a steep and interesting pass； we
arrived at Lithrankomi； after passing through Gallibornu。
To my astonishment the oxen and their drivers； instead of awaiting me at
Lithrankomi； were still at the latter village； and hearing that we had
passed through； they came on to join us； but only arrived some hours
later； at nightfall。 I discharged my camels that evening； as the carts
would begin their new contract on the following morning。
I rose early on the next day； as we had a long march of twenty…two miles
before us to Trichomo； but as the oxen had been resting for many days；
and I had been paying highly for their food while they had been doing
nothing； I knew they must be in first…rate condition； and in spite of
bad roads they would accomplish the distance。 There was always a
difficulty in inducing the carters to start early； but this morning
there was a greater delay than usual； and I myself went to superintend
the loading of the carts。 I could hardly believe my eyes！ In Georgi's
cart the oxen had been yoked。 There was a black creature about half a
foot shorter than its fellow； and composed of skin and bones。 The horns
of this animal were antiquities： a drawn appearance about the head and
face； and deeply sunken eyes； denoted extreme age。 The fellow ox I
recognised after some time as our old friend in reduced circumstances；
it had been going through a course of wild artichokes and prickly
thistles since I had seen it last； which had brought it into racing
condition by the loss of at least a hundredweight of flesh； the poor
beast looked starved。 Georgi had accordingly saved the whole of the
allowance I had paid for food of the best quality； which he had pocketed
while his animal was turned out to graze。 〃Where are my oxen？〃 I
inquired of the conscious Georgi； who wisely remained silent。 I now
turned to Theodori's team； and I at once perceived that he also had
exchanged one of the superb oxen which I had hired； and upon which I had
depended for drawing the gipsy…van； but the new purchase was a very
beautiful animal； although inferior in height to its companion； which
had much fallen off in condition； having been fed upon the same
unnutritious food。 I had been regularly done； as the animals for which I
had paid highly had not only been neglected； but had been exchanged。
I very quickly explained to the proprietors that they had no right
whatever to exchange the oxen which I had engaged； and for which I was
paying in my absence； therefore I should refuse to accept them； as the
contract was broken； and I immediately ordered the camels to be loaded
with the contents of the carts。 Fortunately the discharged animals were
grazing within a few yards of our camp。
My servants now explained that Georgi the thick…headed had been done by
his dear friend and companion Theodori； 〃the man of ability；〃 who had
accompanied me into the Carpas with the sole intention of
cattle…dealing。 It appeared that after my departure from Gallibornu；
Theodori had suggested to his friend that a saving might be effected in
the keep of four animals by reducing them to two； and he advised that
they should at once sell each one ox； and arrange to purchase new
animals by the time that I should return； they would by this method
pocket half the sum which I had agreed to pay daily for four oxen during
my absence at Cape St。 Andrea。 They subsequently came to the conclusion
that their remaining oxen should live upon their wits and thistles；
instead of causing an expense in the purchase of cotton…seed； lentils；
and tibbin （broken barley…straw）。 Theodori informed Georgi that he knew
of two beautiful animals that might be obtained by the exchange of two
of their oxen with a small sum of money in addition； and he would
arrange the matter if Georgi would part with the dark cream…coloured ox
with black points （his best）。 Of course the innocent…minded；
broad…shouldered； herculean Georgi knew that his friend would protect
his interests； and he left the matter in his hands。 The unmitigated
rascal Theodori knew that the beautiful fat red ox that he wished to
purchase was some years younger than the old well…trained oxen which
formed his pair； and therefore it would be more valuable； he accordingly
agreed to give one of his oxen and one of Georgi's FOR A PAIR from the
proprietor of the fat red animal； who consented to the exchange；
receiving the two fine animals which I had hired and； giving the
valuable young red ox together with the miserable old creature that I
had seen that morning in the yoke。 This worn…out old skeleton was to be
Georgi's share of the bargain！ I told Georgi that my dogs would not eat
the animal if it should die； as it was too thin。 My servants burst out
laughing when Christo the cook translated the account of the
transaction。 The shameless scoundrel Theodori； who was present； SMILED
at the relation of his shrewdness； and the big Georgi burst out crying
like a child at the loss of his fine ox； the duplicity of his friend；
and the want of sympathy of the bystanders； who made a joke of his
misfortune。 I was very sorry for poor Georgi； as he was really an
excellent fellow； he had been only foolish in trusting to the honour of
his friend； like some good people who apply for assistance to Lord
Penzance； however； there was no help for it； and he departed crying
bitterly。
My servants were fond of the man； and their hearts began to soften after
they had enjoyed the first hearty laugh at Georgi's expense； and
Christo； who was always the factotum； shortly came with a suggestion；
that； 〃If I would write an order for the immediate return of Georgi's
bullock； on the plea that as I had hired the animal no one had a right
to exchange it until the expiration of my contract；〃 there would be no
difficulty； as 〃the purchaser would be afraid to retain the animal upon
seeing Georgi armed with a written paper。〃 〃But；〃 I said； 〃what is the
use of my writing in English； which no one can understand？〃 Christo
assured me that it would have a better effect if nobody could read the
contents； as Georgi could then say anything he pleased。 I wrote an order
for the return of the ox as belonging temporarily to me by contract； and
Georgi having wiped his eyes； immediately set off on foot towards
Gallibornu； full of confidence and hope。
Theodori declared that it would be impossible for his oxen to reach
Trichomo in one day； I therefore loaded the camels； and advised him to
await Georgi's return； should they re…appear at Kuklia； where the vans
were lying； I would re…engage them as far as Lefkosia； and in the
meantime I would pay them for the daily keep of their animals； who were
to be well fed； and to discontinue the course of wild artichokes and
thistles。
We took a different route upon leaving Lithrankomi； by keeping upon the
high plateau instead of the lower valleys through which we had arrived
on our way from Volokalida。 We accordingly left this village some miles
to the south； but as we were passing through a broad cultivated plain； a
portion of which had recently been ploughed； we observed a crowd of
women and girls who were engaged with baskets in collecting wild
artichokes； which the plough had dislodged。 As we approached a sudden
rush was made in our direction； the baskets were placed upon the ground；
and a race took place over the heavy soil to see who would be the first
to greet us。 We discovered that these were our friends of Volokalida；
who had walked across the hills in a large party to collect wild
vegetables； they seemed delighted to see us； and insisted upon shaking
hands； which； as they had been grubbing in the freshly…turned ground；
was rather a mouldy operation。 We shook hands with about thirty members
of this primitive agricultural society； and were glad to waive an adieu
before the arrival of the older women in the rear； who with their heavy
nailed boots were running towards us； plunging about in the deep ground
in clumsy attempts at juvenile activity。 A few of the young women were
very pretty； but； as usual in Cyprus； their figures were ungainly； and
their movements； hampered by baggy trousers and enormous high boots；
were most ungraceful。
On arrival at Trichomo we pitched our tent at some distance from the
dwelling in which we had fed some thousand fleas upon our former visit；
and on the following morning I determined to go straight Famagousta；
about twelve mile