civilised taste； it would be perfectly valueless and undrinkable； if the
best wines in the world can be thus destroyed by a savage means of
transport； what must the effect be upon such inferior qualities as the
crude produce of Cyprus？ Common sense will suggest that the first step
towards improvement will be the completion of roads throughout the wine
districts； that will enable the two…wheeled native carts to convey the
wine in barrels direct from the growers to the merchants' stores at
Limasol。
We will now commence at the beginning； 〃the cultivation of the vine；〃
and trace its progress until the wine is ready for the consumer。
As I have already described； the commanderia and the black wines are
produced by the two different qualities of soils； but there is no
difference in the altitudes。 The new British road from Limasol to
Platraes； thirty miles； cuts directly through the principal vine
districts of the country。 From the deep valley and roaring torrent； up
to the mountain…tops exceeding 4000 feet above the sea…level； the
country is green with vineyards in the middle or latter end of May； not
a yard of available land is lost。 When the shoots are about three feet
long and have shown the embryo bunches； a number of men enter the
vineyard with switches and knock off the tender ends of the runners；
which in a gentler method of cultivation would be picked off with the
finger and thumb…nail。 Sometimes goats are turned in to nibble off the
shoots in order to save labour； and at the same time to feed the
animals； they of course damage the vines； but the Cypriote thinks the
system pays。 The young vines are never staked and tied as in Europe； but
are allowed to take their chance； and the heavy bunches in many
instances rest upon the dusty ground。
There is seldom rain after May； but a few showers are favourable at this
particular season when the young bunches are in blossom。 In the best
vineyards attention is given to clearing away the weeds after rain； but
usually the vines are left to nature after the grapes have formed； as
the hot sun and drying wind are sufficient to keep down adverse
vegetation。
The grapes ripen towards the middle or end of August。 The commanderia
grapes are collected and spread upon the flat mud…plastered roofs of the
native houses； and are exposed for several days； until they show
symptoms of shrivelling in the skin； and the stalks have partially
dried： they are then pressed。 By this time many of the grapes that have
been bruised by this rough treatment have fermented； and the dust and
dirt of the house…top； together with flies and other insects； have
adhered to the impure heap。 It has been imagined by some travellers that
the grapes are purposely dried before pressing； on the other hand； I
have been assured by the inhabitants that their only reason for heaping
and exposing their crop upon the house…tops is the danger of leaving it
to ripen in the vineyard。 None of the plots are fenced； and before the
grapes are sufficiently ripe for pressing they are stolen in large
quantities； or destroyed by cattle； goats； mules； and every stray animal
that is attracted to the fields。 The owner of the vineyard accordingly
gathers his crop by degrees； a little before the proper time； and the
grapes are exposed upon the house…tops to ripen artificially in the sun。
In this manner the quality is seriously damaged； but the natives will
not acknowledge it any more than the Devonshire farmers； who leave their
apples in heaps upon the ground for many weeks； rotting and wasp…eaten；
before they are carried to the pound for the grinding of cider。 The
grapes； having been trodden by men with large boots； are pressed； and
the juice of the commanderia is placed in jars capable of holding from
seventy to one hundred gallons。 The refuse of skins and stalks is laid
upon one side to ferment for the manufacture of raki； or spirit； by
distillation。 The fermentation of the juice proceeds in the earthen
jars； and is guided according to the ideas of the proprietor； when he
considers that it has continued to a degree sufficient for the strength
and quality of the wine； it is checked by the addition of powdered
gypsum。 Here is one of the patent errors of the manufacture of
commanderia as a wine suitable to English tastes。 The grape…juice is
naturally so rich in saccharine； that it is luscious and vapid to an
excess； this superabundant amount of sugar would be converted into
alcohol in the natural process of fermentation if unchecked； and by the
chemical change the wine would gain in strength and lose in sweetness。
Should this process be adopted； the result would no longer represent the
wine now accepted as commanderia； which finds a ready market in the
Levant； owing to its peculiar sweetness and rich flavour； although
disagreeable to Europeans； there would accordingly be a risk attending
such experiments； which the grower would consider unnecessary； as he
already commands the sale。
The large jars in which the wine ferments are porous and unglazed； the
usual waterproofing is adopted； in the shape of tar； with which the
inside is thickly coated。 There are many jars of a century old； which
have lost the flavour by extreme age； and have become liquid…proof by
the choking of the pores with the crust deposited by the wine； these are
highly prized； and the wine after fermentation is left upon its own lees
to ripen； or； according to our ideas； it is entirely neglected。 It is
never racked into other vessels。
There is an unusual peculiarity in commanderia； instead of the colour
becoming paler by great age； it deepens to an extraordinary degree。 The
new wine is the ordinary tint of sherry； but it gradually becomes
darker； until after forty or fifty years it is almost black； with the
syrup…like consistence of new honey。 Wine of this age and quality is
much esteemed； and is worth a fancy price。 I was presented with several
bottles of the famous old Cyprus growths of commanderia； morocanella；
and muscadine； by the kindness of Mr。 Lanites； who is largely interested
in the trade at Limasol。 The old commanderia was sufficiently sweet to
occasion a roughness in the throat； and each quality was far too
luscious for English taste； but might have been agreeable to sip like
Tokay； by soaking a sponge biscuit。 The utterly rude method of producing
native wines； which can scarcely be dignified by the term 〃manufacture；〃
is a sufficient explanation of their inferior quality； but at the same
time it is a proof of the great wine…producing power of Cyprus； where；
in spite of ignorance and neglect； an extensive commerce has been
established； which adds materially to the revenue of the island。 If
these badly…made wines have founded an important trade； there is every
reason to expect a corresponding extension when scientific principles
shall have resulted in a superior quality。
The black wines receive even less care than the commanderia； the grapes
are trodden； and are thrown into receptacles to ferment； together with
the skins and stalks。 This bruised mass； after lying a certain time
exposed to fermentation； is pressed； and the muddy juice is stowed in
the large tarred jars to ripen for a few months； which； according to
Cyprian taste； are sufficient to prepare it for consumption。 The stalks
and black skins； being extremely rich in tannin； have imparted to the
wine a powerful astringency and the exceedingly dark colour which so
disagreeably distinguish this common quality。 The growers imagine that
the extra amount of tannin is preservative； without which； their wine
might deteriorate during the rough treatment to which it is subjected by
transport and exposure； and to their specially…educated palates this
astringency is agreeable； combined with the strong flavour of tar； which
completely excludes it from the consumption of Englishmen。 Neither the
commanderia nor any other quality of wine is subjected to the process of
〃fining；〃 when issued from the stores of the merchant； therefore； a
really bright clear wine is never met with。 The black wines could be
considerably improved by allowing them to settle in large vats； and by a
series of rackings into other vessels； as they become clearer by
depositing their impurities。 I have tried this experiment upon a small
scale with success； and there can be no doubt that the simple manual
labour of drawing off the clear wine to enable it to fine itself by
precipitating the albuminous matter that has been fixed by the
superabundant tannin； would render the 〃mavro；〃 or black wine；
drinkable； always excepting the presence of tar； which can at once be
avoided by the substitution of casks for the earthen jars and
goat…skins。
At the expiration of the vintage the vines remain uncared…for throughout
the autumn and winter； cattle and goats invade them ad libitum so long
as their leaves are attractive； and no operation is performed until the
month of March。 At this time they are pruned close to the stocks； which
are generally about one foot above the ground； and two eyes are supposed
to be left upon each spur。 But I have watched the cultivators during the
process； and observed the usual neglect； sometimes the spurs were shaved
off completely； without a bud for next year's shoot； and at others too
many buds were left； that would weaken and disfigure the parent stem。
The instrument for pruning was similar to a very small reaping…hook；
with a handle about a foot in length； and the delicate operation was
conducted with a rapidity that rendered the necessary care impossible。
After the clearing of the refuse the land is carefully ploughed and
cleaned。
I visited some large wine…stores in Larnaca； where casks of about 300
gallons each were arranged in long parallel rows； all filled with
commanderia of various ages and corresponding prices。
Having now traced the liquor from the original vineyard into the
merchant's store； it will be interesting to examine the network of
obstructions and extortions to which the unfortunate wine…grower is
exposed before he can deliver his produce into the hands of the
merchant； either at Limasol or elsewhere。
Consul Riddell reported officially in 1875 as follows：
〃The wine