believe has been officially declared invalid； by what other right the
monopoly of the water had been conveyed away from the original
proprietors I could not understand。 The Greek was not enjoying his
victory in absolute peace of mind； as the neighbouring farmers avenged
their legal defeat by cutting holes in the embankments of his
watercourses； and thereby nightly flooding their own fields； which； as
the channels extended for many miles； would have required the presence
of more than all the police of the district to discover the offenders。
Upon one occasion upwards of forty of these people appeared mounted upon
mules around my camp； to urge my intercession on their behalf； declaring
their perfect faith in the honour and good intentions of the English
authorities； but at the same time lamenting their ignorance of the
native language； which threw the entire power into the hands of the
dragomans （interpreters）； of whose character they spoke in terms which
it is to be hoped were highly exaggerated。 The people begged me to ride
over to the locality； to see with my own eyes the position of affairs；
which I arranged to do sine die； and after advising them to exercise a
temporary patience； I got rid of the deputation without suggesting 〃that
under the existing agrarian dispute they should let their farms to some
enterprising Irish tenants from Tipperary。〃
I mention this incident； which is one of many others upon the same
subject； to exhibit the complications that have always arisen from the
contention upon water…rights； that will require some special
legislation。 。 。 。
The weather was becoming warm at Limasol； the thermometer ranging from
70 degrees at 7 A。M。 to 83 degrees at 3 P。M。 There was a trouble in the
water…supply； as that for drinking purposes had to be conveyed by
donkeys from a distance of three or four miles。 The market in the town；
although well arranged externally； was governed by peculiarly
restrictive municipal regulations； the price of meat and several other
articles being fixed at a common standard！ According to this absurd rule
inferior mutton would fetch an equal price with the best quality： the
natural consequence ensued； that only inferior meat was introduced； to
the exclusion of all other。 The supply of fish was extremely irregular；
and they were generally small and dear。 Upon some occasions we purchased
good red mullet； also a larger fish of the bass species； but there were
only a few fishermen； who required an opposition to induce activity and
moderate prices。 Their nets were made of exceedingly fine twine； and the
smallness of the mesh denoted a scarcity of the larger species of fish。
A number of Maltese settlers were arriving； to whom lands had been
granted by the government in the neighbourhood of Limasol； this
excellent arrangement will have the effect of infusing a new spirit
among the people by the introduction of fresh blood； and the well…known
fishermen of Malta will of themselves be a boon to the large towns；
where a regular demand may be depended upon at a reasonable price。
There was nothing to induce a longer stay at Limasol； and I resolved
upon Trooditissa monastery as the position for a mountain residence
during the summer months。 Upon Kiepert's map； which is the best I have
seen of Cyprus； this point was placed among the angles in the various
crests and ridges of the Troodos mountain； and was marked by measurement
as 4340 feet above the sea…level。 The new government road extended from
Limasol to Platraes； from which a good mule…path led to the camp
prepared for the 20th Regiment and the Royal Engineers at an altitude of
5740 feet。 It appeared to me that in north latitude 35 degrees this was
an unnecessary elevation。 My old residence at Newera Ellia in Ceylon was
6210 feet above the sea in north latitude 6 degrees 30'； and in that low
latitude we had sharp frosts at night。 Any heights approaching 6000 feet
in north latitude 35 degrees would； I imagined； become disagreeably
chilly in the morning and evening； at seasons when in the low country
the heat would still be too oppressive for a return from the mountain
sanatorium。
The mean temperature at Limasol from 1st May to 18th had been at 7 A。M。
65 degrees； at 3 P。M。 78。6 degrees； during which interval there had been
sudden variations of temperature； ranging from a minimum of 56 degrees
to 84 degrees。 On the 11th May； having engaged twenty…three mules for
our tents； baggage； and party； we started from Limasol for Trooditissa。
The dog Merry； that had been bitten by the snake； had lain for days in a
state of stupor； black and swollen； I had poured quantities of olive…oil
down his throat； as he could not eat； and at length I gave him a dose of
two grains of calomel； with three grains of emetic tartar。 After this he
slowly recovered； the ear that was bitten mortified； and was cut off；
but the dog was sufficiently restored to accompany us upon the march；
together with his companion Wise。 We were now about to enter the great
vine…growing district of Cyprus； which produces the large exportations
that form the chief industry of Limasol。
At a distance of a mile from our camp we entered the new government road
which connected Limasol with Platraes； thirty miles distant。 The country
quickly assumed an agreeable character； undulations and watercourses
were more or less covered with trees； and the road scarped out of the
steep sides exhibited the cretaceous formation similar to that between
Larnaca and Lefkosia。 Wild lavender was just blooming upon many portions
of the way； while along the rocky courses of ravines the oleanders were
in the richest blossom。 The road was furnished with mile…posts； and the
mules ambled along at a little more than five miles an hour。 I found
considerable fault in the low gradients （one in thirty）； which had
produced a road unnecessary for the vehicles of the country； at a
proportionate outlay； it was altogether too good； and would have been
excellent trotting…ground for a light phaeton and pair。 As there was no
such vehicle in the island； the beautifully traced highway exhibited a
model of engineering that was scarcely appreciated by the natives； who
invariably took the short and direct cuts to avoid the circuitous
zigzags in descending the numerous valleys and in rounding the deep
ravines。 After a ride of twelve miles through a beautiful country； well
wooded； and comprising a succession of wild hills and deep gorges； which
formed torrents in the wet season； we arrived at a river flowing in a
clear but extremely shallow and narrow stream beneath cliffs of
cretaceous limestone。 The banks were richly clad with rosy oleanders；
myrtles； mastic shrubs； and the shade of several fine old plane…trees in
full foliage invited us at once to halt immediately upon the edge of the
rippling stream。 This spot was known as Zigu； where an ancient stone
bridge； with pointed arches； crossed the ravine about a hundred paces
above the new wooden bridge erected by the Royal Engineers。 This was a
most charming spot for luncheon； and the dense shade of the planes was
far more agreeable than the shelter of a wooden military hut that stood
upon the height above and by no means improved the beauty of the view。
Our dogs seemed to enjoy the change； and raced up and down the river's
bed； delighted with the cold water from the mountains； fresh from the
highest springs of Troodos Some cold roast pigeons； young and fat； and
some hard…boiled eggs； formed our luncheon； together with bread and
cheese。 These were quickly despatched and the carpets being spread
beneath the trees； an hour's nap was good for man while the mules rolled
and then dozed in luxury upon the turf…like surface of the glen。 I was
awakened by the clatter of horse's hoofs； and Mr。 Allen； the chief
officer of the police of Limasol； appeared； having most kindly ridden
after us with the post just arrived from England。 Unfortunately not a
crumb of luncheon remained； the dogs having swallowed our leavings。 We
now saddled； and continued the journey upon the firm surface of the new
road。
When about fourteen miles from Limasol we entered upon a grand scene；
which exhibited the commencement of the wine…producing district。 The
road was scarped from the mountain side several hundred feet above the
river； which murmured over its rocky bed in the bottom of the gorge。 We
were skirting a deep valley； and upon either side the mountains rose to
a height of about 1400 feet； completely covered with vineyards from the
base to the summit； this long vale or chasm extended to the Troodos
range； which towered to upwards of 6000 feet； at a distance of about
fourteen miles immediately in our front。 The vines were all green with
their early foliage； and the surface of the hill…sides was most
cheering； contrasting with the yellow plain we had left at Limasol。
The good road rendered travelling delightful after the stony paths that
we had traversed for some months in Cyprus； and the time passed so
rapidly that we could hardly believe the distance marked upon the
nineteenth milestone； where it was necessary to halt for the arrival of
our baggage animals。 After waiting till nearly dark we found they had
quitted the new road and preferred a short cut across country； which had
led them to the village of Menagria down in the glen nearly a mile below
us。 We walked down the steep hill and joined the party； pitched the
tent； and made ready for the night。
On the following morning； instead of adhering to the new road； we
descended to the bottom of the gorge and crossed the river near some
water…mills； as the bridge was not yet completed in the distant angle of
the glen。 We now ascended an exceedingly steep hill from the river's
bed； which severely tried our animals； until； after passing a succession
of cereal crops and vineyards； we arrived at the summit； about 1200 feet
above the valley。 From this point the view was magnificent。 The
pine…covered sides of Troodos appeared close before us； and a valley
stretched away to our right richly clothed with trees below the steep
vine…covered sides of the surrounding mountains。 Keeping to our left and
passing through several insignificant villages； we c