standing in its own fenced and neatly sanded compound under the shade
of cocoa…palms and bananas。 The village paths are carefully sanded and
very clean。 We emerged upon the neatly sanded open space on which this
barrack stands； glad to obtain shelter； for the sun is still fierce。 It
is a genuine Malay house on stilts； but where there should be an
approach of eight steps there is only a steep ladder of three round
rungs； up which it is not easy to climb in boots！ There is a deep
veranda under an attap roof of steep slope； and at either end a low bed
for a constable； with the usual very hard； circular Malay bolsters；
with red silk ends； ornamented with gold and silk embroidery。 Besides
this veranda there is only a sort of inner room； with just space enough
for a table and four chairs。 The wall is hung with rifles； krises； and
handcuffs； with which a 〃Sam Slick〃 clock； an engraving from the
Graphic； and some curious Turkish pictures of Stamboul； are oddly mixed
up。 Babu； the Hadji； having recovered from a sulk into which he fell
in consequence of Mr。 Hayward having quizzed him for cowardice about an
alligator； has made everything （our very limited everything） quite
comfortable； and； with as imposing an air as if we were in Government
House； asks us when we will have dinner！ One policeman has brought us
fresh cocoa…nut milk； another sits outside pulling a small punkah； and
two more have mounted guard over us。 This stilted house is the barrack
of eleven Malay constables。 Under it are four guns of light calibre；
mounted on carriages； and outside is a gong on which the policemen beat
the hours。
At the river we were told that the natives would not go up the shallow；
rapid stream by night； and now the corporal says that no man will carry
us through the jungle； that trees are lying across the track； that
there are dangerous swamp holes； that though the tigers which infest
the jungle never attack a party； we might chance to see their glaring
eyeballs； that even if men could be bribed to undertake to carry us；
they would fall with us； or put us down and run away； for no better
reason than that they caught sight of the 〃spectre bird〃 （the owl）； and
he adds； with a gallantry remarkable in a Mohammedan； that he should
not care about Mr。 Hayward； 〃but it would not do for the ladies。〃 So we
are apparently stuck fast； the chief cause for anxiety and
embarrassment being that the youngest Miss Shaw is lying huddled up and
shivering on one of the beds； completely prostrated by a violent sick
headache； brought on by the heat of the sun in the launch。 She declares
that she cannot move； but our experienced escort； who much fears
bilious fever for her； is resolved that she shall as soon as any means
of transit can be procured。 Heretofore； I have always traveled 〃without
encumbrance。〃 Is it treasonable to feel at this moment that these fair
girls are one？
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XII
The Tomb of 〃A Great Prophet〃〃Durance Vile〃Fragile TravelersOur
CraftA Night in the JungleNocturnal RevelationsJanuary in the
Perak JungleGlories of the JungleActivity and StillnessAn Uneasy
NightA Slim RepastBetel…ChewingA Severe DisappointmentPolice
Station at Rassa
BRITISH RESIDENCY； SERAMBANG； SUNGEI UJONG； January 26。
By the date of my letter you will see that our difficulties have been
surmounted。 I continue my narrative in a temperature which； in my
roomshaded though it ishas reached 87 degrees。 After hearing many
pros and cons； and longing much for the freedom of a solitary traveler；
I went out and visited the tomb of a famous Hadji； 〃a great prophet；〃
the policeman said； who was slain in ascending the Linggi。 It is a
raised mound； like our churchyard graves； with a post at each end； and
a jar of oil upon it； and is surrounded by a lattice of reeds on which
curtains are hanging； the whole being covered with a thatched roof
supported on posts。
The village looks prosperous； and the Chinaman as much at home as in
China；striving； thriving； and oblivious of everything but his own
interests； the sole agent in the development of the resources of the
country； well satisfied with our； or any rule； under which his gains
are quick and safe。
There are village officers； or headmen； Pangulus； in all villages； and
every hamlet of more than forty houses has its mosque and religious
officials； though Mohammedanism does not recognize the need of a
priesthood。 If one see a man； with the upper part of his body
unclothed； paddling a log canoe； face forward； one is apt to call him a
savage； specially if he be dark…skinned； but the Malays would be much
offended if they were called savages； and； indeed； they are not so。
They have an elaborate civilization； etiquette； and laws of their own；
are the most rigid of monotheists； are decently clothed； build secluded
and tolerably comfortable houses； and lead domestic lives after their
fashion； especially where they are too poor to be polygamists； though I
am of opinion that the peculiar form of domesticity which we still
cultivate to some extent in England； and which is largely connected
with the fireside； cannot exist in a tropical country。 After the
obtrusive nudity and promiscuous bathing of the Japanese； there is
something specially pleasing in the little secluded bathing sheds by
the Malay rivers； used by one person at a time； who throws a sarong on
the thatch to show that the shed is occupied。
Babu made some excellent soup； which； together with curry made with
fresh cocoa…nut； was a satisfactory meal； and though only in a simple；
white； Indian costume； he waited as grandly as at Malacca。 Mr。
Hayward's knowledge of the peculiarities of the Malay character； at
last obtained our release from what was truly 〃durance vile。〃 He sent
for a boatman apart from his fellows； and induced him to make a bargain
for taking us up the river at night； but the man soon returned in a
state of great excitement； complaining that the villagers had set on
him； and were resolved that we should not go up； upon which the police
went down and interfered。 Even after everything was settled； Miss Shaw
was feeling so ill that she wanted to stay in the police station all
night； at least； but Mr。 Hayward and I； who consulted assiduously about
her； were of opinion that we must move her； even if we had to carry
her； for if she were going to have fever； I could nurse her at Captain
Murray's； but certainly not in the veranda of a police station！
This worthy man； who is very brave； and used to facing dangerwho was
the first European to come up here； who acted as guide to the troops
during the war； and afterward disarmed the populationpositively
quailed at having charge of these two fragile girls。 〃Oh；〃 he repeated
several times； 〃if anything were to happen to the Misses Shaw I should
never get over it； and they don't know what roughing it is； they never
should have been allowed to come。〃 So I thought； too； as I looked at
one of them lying limp and helpless on a Malay bed； but my share of the
responsibility for them was comparatively limited。 Doubtless his
thoughts strayed； as mine did； to the days of traveling 〃without
encumbrance。〃 There was another encumbrance of a literal kind。 They had
a trunk！ This indispensable impediment had been left at Malacca in the
morning； and arrived in a four…paddled canoe just as we were about to
start！
Mr。 Hayward prescribed two tablespoonfuls of whisky for Miss Shaw； for
it is somewhat of a risk to sleep out in the jungle at the rainy
season； for the miasma rises twenty feet； and the day had been
exceptionally hot。 Our rather dismal procession started at seven； Mr。
Hayward leading the way； carrying a torch made of strips of palm
branches bound tightly together and dipped in gum dammar； a most
inflammable resin； then a policeman； the sick girl； moaning and
stumbling； leaning heavily on her sister and me； Babu； who had grown
very plucky； a train of policemen carrying our baggage； and lastly；
several torch…bearers； the torches dripping fire as we slowly and
speechlessly passed along。 It looked like a funeral or something
uncanny。 We crawled dismally for fully three…quarters of a mile to cut
off some considerable windings of the river； crossed a stream on a
plank bridge； and found our boat lying at a very high pier with a
thatched roof。
The mystery of night in a strange place was wildly picturesque； the
pale； greenish； undulating light of fireflies； and the broad； red
waving glare of torches flashing fitfully on the skeleton pier； the
lofty jungle trees； the dark； fast…flowing river； and the dark； lithe
forms of our half…naked boatmen。
The prahu was a flattish…bottomed boat about twenty…two and a half feet
long by six and a half feet broad； with a bamboo gridiron flooring
resting on the gunwale for the greater part of its length。 This was
covered for seven feet in the middle by a low； circular roof； thatched
with attap。 It was steered by a broad paddle loosely lashed； and poled
by three men who； standing at the bow； planted their poles firmly in
the mud and then walked half…way down the boat and back again。 All
craft must ascend the Linggi by this laborious process； for its current
is so strong that the Japanese would call it one long 〃rapid。〃
Descending loaded with tin； the stream brings boats down with great
rapidity； the poles being used only to keep them off the banks and
shallows。 Our boat was essentially 〃native。〃
The 〃Golden Chersonese〃 is very hot； and much infested by things which
bite and sting。 Though the mercury has not been lower than 80 degrees
at night since I reached Singapore； I have never felt the heat
overpowering in a house； but the night on the river was awful； and
after the intolerable blaze of the day the fighting with the heat and
mosquitoes was most exhausting； crowded as we were into very close and
uneasy quarters； a bamboo gridiron being by no means a bed of down。 Bad
as it was； I was often amused by the thought of the unusual feast which
the jungle mosquitoes were having on the blood of four white people。
If it had not been for the fire in the bow； which helped to keep them
down by smoking them （and us）； I at least should now be laid up with
〃mosquito f