such as he has not yet had of the complete pacification of the
district； but； he added； it would appear somewhat odd that the first
European to test the disposition of the Koto…lamah people should be a
lady。
Leaving this large kampong we traveled by a much…grown…up elephant
track； needing the constant use of the parang and the strength and
wisdom of the elephant to make it passable； saw several lairs and some
recent tiger tracks； crossed a very steep hill； and； after some hours
of hard riding； came down upon the lovely Perak； which we crossed in a
〃dugout〃 so nearly level with the water that at every stroke of the
paddle of the native who crouched in the bow the water ran in over the
edge。 We landed at the village of Kwala Kangsa
〃In the glory of the sunset；
In the purple mists of evening；〃
in which the magnified purple mountains were piled like Alps against
the flaming clouds。 By the river bank lay the Dragon boat and the
square bamboo floating bath； through the side of which Mr。 Birch was
mortally wounded。
On landing we met a very bright intelligent…looking young Malay with a
train of followers； a dandy almost； in white trousers； short red
sarong； black baju with gold buttons； gold watchguard； and red head
dress。 The expression of his face was keen and slightly scornful。 This
is Rajah Dris； a judge； and the probable successor to the Perak throne。
The present Resident thinks highly both of his character and his
abilities； and he is very popular among his countrymen。 He walked with
us as far as the mosque； and I heard him ask questions about me。 The
Mussulmen of the village； several of them being Hadjis； were assembling
for worship； lounging outside the mosque till the call to prayer came。
Ablutions before worshiping are performed in floating baths in the
river。 The trade of Kwala Kangsa seems in the hands of the Chinese；
with a few Klings among them； and they have a row of shops。
LETTER XX （Continued）
A Joyous WelcomeA Severe MortificationThe British ResidentDaily
VisitorsRajah DrisA Tipsy ApeMarriage CeremoniesMarriage
FestivitiesMalay ChildrenThe Rajah Muda YusufA Dreary
FuneralFascinating CompanionshipA Cocoa…Nut GathererThe Argus
PheasantAn Opium WreckRhinoceros
HornsElephant…TamingPetrifying Influences of IslamismA Dwindling
Race
February 17。I was very glad that yesterday was Sunday； so that I had
a quiet day； for nearly twelve hours of jungle riding on an elephant
makes one very stiff and sleepy。 Three days of solitude； meals in the
company of apes； elephant excursions； wandering about alone； and free；
open air； tropical life in the midst of all luxuries and comforts； have
been very enchanting。 At night； when the servants had retired to their
quarters and the apes to the roof； and I was absolutely alone in the
bungalow； the silent Oriental sentries motionless below the veranda
counting for nothing； and without a single door or window to give one
the feeling of restraint； I had some of the 〃I'm monarch of all I
survey〃 feeling； and when drum beat and bugle blast； and the turning
out of the Sikh guard； indicated that the Resident was in sight； I felt
a little reluctant to relinquish the society of animals； and my
〃solitary reign；〃 which seemed almost 〃ancient〃 also。
When Mr。 Low； unattended as he always is； reached the foot of the
stairs the retriever leapt down with one bound； and through the air
over his head fled Mahmoud and Eblis； uttering piercing cries； the
siamang； though keeping at a distance； adding to the jubilations； and
for several minutes I saw nothing of my host； for these creatures；
making every intelligent demonstration of delight； were hanging round
him with their long arms； the retriever nearly wild with joy； but
frantically jealous； all the creatures welcoming him more warmly than
most people would welcome their relations after a long absence。 Can it
be wondered at that people like the society of these simple； loving；
unsophisticated beings？
Mr。 Low's arrival has inflicted a severe mortification on me； for
Eblis； who has been absolutely devoted to me since I rescued him from
Mahmoud； has entirely deserted me； takes no notice of me； and seems
anxious to disclaim our previous acquaintance！ I have seen children do
just the same thing； so it makes the kinship appear even closer。 He
shows the most exquisite devotion to his master； caresses him with his
pretty baby hands； murmurs ouf in the tenderest of human tones； and
sits on his shoulder or on his knee as he writes； looking up with a
strange wistfulness in his eyes； as if he would like to express himself
in something better than a monosyllable。
This is a curious life。 Mr。 Low sits at one end of the veranda at his
business table with Eblis looking like his familiar spirit； beside him。
I sit at a table at the other end； and during the long working hours we
never exchange one word。 Mahmoud sometimes executes wonderful capers；
the strange； wild； half…human face of the siamang peers down from the
roof with a half…trustful； half…suspicious expression； the retriever
lies on the floor with his head on his paws； sleeping with one eye
open； always on the watch for a coveted word of recognition from his
master； or a yet more coveted opportunity of going out with him； tiffin
and dinner are silently served in the veranda recess at long intervals；
the sentries at the door are so silently changed that one fancies that
the motionless blue turbans and scarlet coats contain always the same
men； in the foreground the river flows silently； and the soft airs
which alternate are too feeble to stir the over…shadowing palm…fronds
or rustle the attap of the roof。 It is hot； silent； tropical。 The sound
of Mr。 Low's busy pen alone breaks the stillness during much of the
day； so silent is it that the first heavy drops of the daily tropical
shower on the roof have a startling effect。
Mr。 Low is greatly esteemed； and is regarded in the official circles of
the Settlements as a model administrator。 He has had thirty years'
experience in the East； mainly among Malays； and has brought not only a
thoroughly idiomatic knowledge of the Malay language； but a sympathetic
insight into Malay character to his present post。 He understands the
Malays and likes them； and has not a vestige of contempt for a dark
skin； a prejudice which is apt to create an impassable gulf between the
British official and the Asiatics under his sway。 I am inclined to
think that Mr。 Low is happier among the Malays and among his apes and
other pets than he would be among civilized Europeans！
He is working fourteen hours out of the twenty…four。 I think that work
is his passion； and a change of work his sole recreation。 He devotes
himself to the promotion of the interests of the State； and his evident
desire is to train the native Rajahs to rule the people equitably。 He
seems to grudge every dollar spent superfluously on the English
establishment； and contents himself with this small and old…fashioned
bungalow。 In this once disaffected region he goes about unarmed； and in
the daytime the sentries only carry canes。 His manner is as quiet and
unpretending as can possibly be； and he speaks to Malays as
respectfully as to Europeans； neither lowering thereby his own dignity
nor theirs。 Apparently they have free access to him during all hours of
daylight； and as I sit writing to you or reading； a Malay shadow
constantly falls across my paper； and a Malay； with silent； cat…like
tread glides up the steps and appears unannounced in the veranda； on
which Mr。 Low at once lays aside whatever he is doing； and quietly
gives himself to the business in hand。 The reigning prince； the Rajah
Muda Yusuf； and Rajah Dris； are daily visitors； the former brings a
troop of followers with him； and they remain outside； their red sarongs
and picturesque attitudes as they lounge in the shade； giving to the
place that 〃native〃 air which everywhere I love； at least where
〃natives〃 are treated as I think that they ought to be； and my
requirements are pretty severe！
I am painfully aware of the danger here； as everywhere； of forming
hasty and inaccurate judgments； and of drawing general conclusions from
partial premises； and on my present tour there is the added risk of
seeing things through official spectacles； but still certain things lie
on the surface； and a traveler must be very stupid indeed if he does
not come to an approximately just conclusion concerning them。 As； for
instance； it is easy to see that far in the interior of the Malay
Peninsula； in regions rarely visited by Europeans； themselves without
advisers； and away from the influence of public opinion； dealing with
weak rulers to whom they represent preponderating brute force in the
last resort； the position of 〃Resident〃 is very much what the
individual man chooses to make it。 Nor is it difficult to perceive
whether the relations between the English official and the natives are
hearty and cordial； or sullen and distrustful； or whether the Resident
makes use of his position for purposes of self…aggrandizement； and
struts tempestuously and swaggeringly before the Malays； or whether he
devotes his time and energies to the promotion of prosperity； good
order； and progress； in a firm and friendly spirit。
After a very quiet day we went at sunset； to see Rajah Dris； not taking
the dog。 The trifling matter of the dog being regarded as an
abomination is one of the innumerable instances of the ingrained
divergence between Moslem and Christian feeling。 Rajah Dris lives in a
good house； but it is Europeanized； and consequently vulgarized。 He
received us very politely on the stairs； and took us into a sitting…
room in which there were various ill…assorted European things。 His
senior wife was brought in； a dull； heavy…looking woman； a daughter of
the Rajah Muda Yusuf； and after her a number of slave women and babies；
till the small room was well filled。 The Rajah hospitably entertained
us with tea； milk； and preserved bananas； but I noticed with regret
that the white table…cloth was much soiled； and that the china and
glass were in very bad taste。 The house and its equipments are a
distressing contrast to those of the Datu B