during the height of which he overpowered four Sikhs who were taking
care of him； rushed out of doors； fell down exhausted； was carried
home； and died at four in the morning； his last delirious dreams being
of gambling and losing heavily。
The lamentable burial took place in the evening as the shadows fell。
This sums up the storya career of dissipation； death at twenty…one； a
rough； oblong box； no one to be sorry。 It made my heart ache for the
mother； who would have given much to be where I was； and see 〃the
dreary death train〃 move slowly to the dreary inclosure on a hill…top；
where the grass grows rank and very green round a number of white
wooden crosses； which mark the graves of the officers and soldiers who
fell in 1876。 The Union Jack was thrown over the coffin； which was
carried by six Sikhs； and Mr。 Low； Major Swinburne； Rajah Dris and some
followers； and Sultan Abdullah's two boys； who had nothing better to
do； followed it。 By the time the grave was reached torches were
required； and the burial service was read from my prayer…book。 It was
all sad and saddening。
The weather is still glorious； the winding Perak still mirrors in
scarcely rippled blue the intensely blue sky； 〃never wind blows
loudly；〃 but soft airs rustle the trees。 One could not lead a more
tropical life than this； with apes and elephants about one under the
cocoa…palms； and with the mercury ranging from 80 degrees to 90
degrees！ Gorgeous； indeed； are the birds and butterflies and flowers；
but often when the erythrina and the Poinciana regia are strewing the
ground with their flaming blossoms； I think with a passionate longing
of the fragile Trientalis Europae； of crimson…tipped lichens； of faint
odors of half…hidden primroses； of whiffs of honey and heather from
purple moorlands； and of all the homely； fragrant； unobtrusive flowers
that are linked with you！ I should like a chance of being 〃cold to the
bone！〃
I have wasted too much of my time to…day upon the apes。 They fascinate
me more daily。 They look exactly like familiar demons； and certainly
anyone having them about him two hundred years ago would have been
burned as a wizard。 When Mr。 Low walks down the veranda； these two
familiars walk behind him with a stealthy tread。 He is having a
business conversation just now with some Rajahs； whose numerous
followers are standing and lying about； and Eblis is sitting on his
shoulder with one arm round his neck； while Mahmoud sits on the table
opening letters； and the siamang； sitting on the rafter； is looking
down with an unpleasant look。 Eblis condescends to notice me to…day；
and occasionally sits on my shoulder murmuring 〃Ouf！ ouf！〃 the sweet
sound which means all varieties of affection and happiness。 They say
wah…wah distinctly； and scream with rage like children； but have none
of the meaningless chatter of monkeys。 It is partly their silence which
makes them such very pleasant companions。 At sunrise； however； like
their forest brethren； they hail the sun for some minutes with a noise
which I have never heard them make again during the day； loud and
musical； as if uttered by human vocal organs； very clear and pleasant。
Doubtless the Malays like Mr。 Low all the better for his love of pets。
At lunch they were both； as usual； sitting at the table。 I am still
much afraid of Mahmoud； but Captain Walker is infatuated with him； and
likes his rough； jolly manners； and his love of fun and rough play。 As
Assam was bringing me a cup of coffee this creature put out his long
arm； and with his face brimming over with frolic； threw the coffee over
the mat。 Then he took up a long glass of beer and began to drink it
eagerly； but as Mr。 Low disapproved of his being allowed to get tipsy a
second time； it was taken from him； upon which he took up the breast of
a fricasseed chicken and threw it at the offender。 The miscreant did
every kind of ludicrous thing； finishing by pulling everyone to go out
with him； as he always does at that hour； and when he had succeeded in
getting us all out was in a moment at the top of a high tree； leaping
from branch to branch； throwing himself on coffee shrubs below；
swinging himself up again in a flash； leaping； bounding！ a picture of
agility； strength； and happiness。 The usual morning gathering of Rajahs
and their followers； with Klings and Sikhs； was there； and I suspect
that they thought adult Europeans very foolish for being amused with
these harum…scarum antics。
A follower had brought a 〃baboon；〃 an ape or monkey trained to gather
cocoa…nuts； a hideous beast on very long legs when on all fours； but
capable of walking erect。 They called him a 〃dog…faced baboon；〃 but I
think they were wrong。 He has a short； curved tail； sable…colored fur
darkening down his back； and a most repulsive； treacherous； and
ferocious countenance。 He is fierce； but likes or at all events obeys
his owner； who held him with a rope fifty feet long。 At present he is
only half tame； and would go back to the jungle if he were liberated。
He was sent up a cocoa…nut tree which was heavily loaded with nuts in
various stages of ripeness and unripeness； going up in surly fashion；
looking round at intervals and shaking his chain angrily。 When he got
to the top he shook the fronds and stalks； but no nuts fell； and he
chose a ripe one； and twisted it round and round till its tenacious
fibers gave way； and then threw it down and began to descend； thinking
he had done enough； but on being spoken to he went to work again with
great vigor； picked out all the ripe nuts on the tree； twisted them all
off； and then came down in a thoroughly bad； sulky； temper。 He was
walking erect； and it seemed discourteous not to go and thank him for
all his hard toil。
As I write I see a fascinating sight： three black apes sitting under
the roof in such a position that I can only see their faces； and they
are all leaning their chins on a beam； and with their wrinkled faces
and gray beards are looking exactly like …。 It is most interesting
to be among wild beasts； which； though tame； or partly so； are not in
captivity； and to see their great sagacity and their singular likeness
and unlikeness to us。 I could dispense with the reptiles； though。 Last
night there were seventeen lizards in my room and two in my slippers。
During the profound stillness of about 3 A。M。； a crowd； hooting；
yelling； and beating clappers； passed not far off in the darkness； and
there was a sound of ravaging and rending caused by a herd of elephants
which had broken into the banana grounds。
Besides apes； elephants； dogs； and other pets； there are some fine
jungle…fowls； a pheasant； a 〃fire…back；〃 I think； and an argus pheasant
of glorious beauty； but glorious is not quite the word either； for the
hundred…eyed feathers of its tail are painted rather in browns than
colors。 These birds are under the charge of a poor Chinaman； who once
had money； but has gone to complete ruin from opium…smoking。 His frame
is reduced to a skeleton covered with skin。 I never saw such emaciation
even in an advanced stage of illness。
Just now I saw Mahmoud and Eblis walk into my room； and shortly
following them； I found that Mahmoud had drawn a pillow to the foot of
the bed； and was lying comfortably with his head upon it； and that
Eblis was lying at the other end。 I do hope that you will not be tired
of the apes。 To me they are so intensely interesting that I cannot help
writing about them。 Eblis has been feverish for some days。 I think he
has never recovered from the thrashing he got the day I came。 He is
pining and growing very weak； he eats nothing but little bits of
banana； and Mr。 Low thinks he is sure to die。 It is a curious fact that
these apes； which are tamed by living with Europeans； acquire a great
aversion to Malays。
February 19。Eblis became much worse while I was out yesterday； and I
fear will surely die。 He can hardly hold anything in his cold； feeble
hands； and eats nothing。 He has a strangely human； faraway look； just
what one sees in the eyes of children who have nearly done with this
world。
The heat is much greater to…day； there is less breeze； and the mercury
has reached 90 degrees； but in the absence of mosquitoes； and with
pine…apples and bananas always at hand； one gets on very well。 But
mosquitoes do embitter existence and interfere with work。 Apparently；
people never become impervious to the poison； as I thought they did；
and there is not a Malay in his mat hut； or a Chinese coolie in his
crowded barrack； who has not his mosquito curtains； and I have already
mentioned that the Malays light fires under their houses to smoke them
away。 Last night a malignant and hideous insect； above an inch long； of
the bug species； appeared。 The bite of this is as severe as the sting
of a hornet。
The jungle seems to be full of wild beasts； specially tigers； in this
neighborhood； and the rhinoceros is not uncommon。 Its horn is worth
15； but Rajah Muda Yusuf； who desires to have a monopoly of them； says
that there are horns with certain peculiar markings which can be sold
to the Chinese for 500* each to be powdered and used as medicine。 Wild
elephants are abundant； but； like the rhinoceros； they ravage the deep
recesses of the jungle。 All the tame elephants here； however； were
once wild； including the fifty which； with swords； dragons； bells；
krises with gold scabbards； and a few other gold articles； formed the
Perak regalia。 The herds are hunted with tame； steady elephants； and on
a likely one being singled out； he is driven by slow degrees into a
strong inclosure； and there attached by stout rattan ropes to an
experienced old elephant； and fed on meager diet for some weeks； varied
with such dainties as sugar…cane and sweet cakes。 The captive is
allowed to go and bathe； and plaster himself with mud； all the while
secured to his tame companion； and though he makes the most desperate
struggles for liberty； he always ends by giving in； and being led back
to his fastenings in the corral。 At times a man gets upon him； sits on
his head； and walks upon his back。 It is here generally about two years
before an elephant is regarded as thoroughly broken in and to be
trusted； and； as elsewhere； sto