to grasp at the possible profits therefrom。
I had still an hour of good daylight during which I might begin my
descent on to some suitable camping…ground； but there was not a
moment to be lost。 At first I got along rapidly； for I was on the
snow； and sank into it enough to save me from falling； though I
went forward straight down the mountain side as fast as I could；
but there was less snow on this side than on the other； and I had
soon done with it； getting on to a coomb of dangerous and very
stony ground； where a slip might have given me a disastrous fall。
But I was careful with all my speed； and got safely to the bottom；
where there were patches of coarse grass； and an attempt here and
there at brushwood： what was below this I could not see。 I
advanced a few hundred yards farther； and found that I was on the
brink of a frightful precipice； which no one in his senses would
attempt descending。 I bethought me； however； to try the creek
which drained the coomb； and see whether it might not have made
itself a smoother way。 In a few minutes I found myself at the
upper end of a chasm in the rocks； something like Twll Dhu； only on
a greatly larger scale； the creek had found its way into it； and
had worn a deep channel through a material which appeared softer
than that upon the other side of the mountain。 I believe it must
have been a different geological formation； though I regret to say
that I cannot tell what it was。
I looked at this rift in great doubt； then I went a little way on
either side of it； and found myself looking over the edge of
horrible precipices on to the river； which roared some four or five
thousand feet below me。 I dared not think of getting down at all；
unless I committed myself to the rift； of which I was hopeful when
I reflected that the rock was soft； and that the water might have
worn its channel tolerably evenly through the whole extent。 The
darkness was increasing with every minute； but I should have
twilight for another half…hour； so I went into the chasm （though by
no means without fear）； and resolved to return and camp； and try
some other path next day； should I come to any serious difficulty。
In about five minutes I had completely lost my head； the side of
the rift became hundreds of feet in height； and overhung so that I
could not see the sky。 It was full of rocks； and I had many falls
and bruises。 I was wet through from falling into the water； of
which there was no great volume； but it had such force that I could
do nothing against it； once I had to leap down a not inconsiderable
waterfall into a deep pool below； and my swag was so heavy that I
was very nearly drowned。 I had indeed a hair's…breadth escape；
but； as luck would have it； Providence was on my side。 Shortly
afterwards I began to fancy that the rift was getting wider； and
that there was more brushwood。 Presently I found myself on an open
grassy slope； and feeling my way a little farther along the stream；
I came upon a flat place with wood； where I could camp comfortably；
which was well； for it was now quite dark。
My first care was for my matches； were they dry？ The outside of my
swag had got completely wet； but； on undoing the blankets； I found
things warm and dry within。 How thankful I was！ I lit a fire； and
was grateful for its warmth and company。 I made myself some tea
and ate two of my biscuits： my brandy I did not touch； for I had
little left； and might want it when my courage failed me。 All that
I did； I did almost mechanically； for I could not realise my
situation to myself； beyond knowing that I was alone； and that
return through the chasm which I had just descended would be
impossible。 It is a dreadful feeling that of being cut off from
all one's kind。 I was still full of hope； and built golden castles
for myself as soon as I was warmed with food and fire； but I do not
believe that any man could long retain his reason in such solitude；
unless he had the companionship of animals。 One begins doubting
one's own identity。
I remember deriving comfort even from the sight of my blankets； and
the sound of my watch tickingthings which seemed to link me to
other people； but the screaming of the wood…hens frightened me； as
also a chattering bird which I had never heard before； and which
seemed to laugh at me； though I soon got used to it； and before
long could fancy that it was many years since I had first heard it。
I took off my clothes； and wrapped my inside blanket about me； till
my things were dry。 The night was very still； and I made a roaring
fire； so I soon got warm； and at last could put my clothes on
again。 Then I strapped my blanket round me； and went to sleep as
near the fire as I could。
I dreamed that there was an organ placed in my master's wool…shed：
the wool…shed faded away； and the organ seemed to grow and grow
amid a blaze of brilliant light； till it became like a golden city
upon the side of a mountain； with rows upon rows of pipes set in
cliffs and precipices； one above the other； and in mysterious
caverns； like that of Fingal； within whose depths I could see the
burnished pillars gleaming。 In the front there was a flight of
lofty terraces； at the top of which I could see a man with his head
buried forward towards a key…board； and his body swaying from side
to side amid the storm of huge arpeggioed harmonies that came
crashing overhead and round。 Then there was one who touched me on
the shoulder； and said； 〃Do you not see？ it is Handel〃；but I had
hardly apprehended； and was trying to scale the terraces； and get
near him； when I awoke； dazzled with the vividness and distinctness
of the dream。
A piece of wood had burned through； and the ends had fallen into
the ashes with a blaze： this； I supposed； had both given me my
dream and robbed me of it。 I was bitterly disappointed； and
sitting up on my elbow； came back to reality and my strange
surroundings as best I could。
I was thoroughly arousedmoreover； I felt a foreshadowing as
though my attention were arrested by something more than the dream；
although no sense in particular was as yet appealed to。 I held my
breath and waited； and then I heardwas it fancy？ Nay； I listened
again and again； and I DID hear a faint and extremely distant sound
of music； like that of an AEolian harp； borne upon the wind which
was blowing fresh and chill from the opposite mountains。
The roots of my hair thrilled。 I listened； but the wind had died；
and； fancying that it must have been the wind itselfno； on a
sudden I remembered the noise which Chowbok had made in the wool…
shed。 Yes； it was that。
Thank Heaven； whatever it was； it was over now。 I reasoned with
myself； and recovered my firmness。 I became convinced that I had
only been dreaming more vividly than usual。 Soon I began even to
laugh； and think what a fool I was to be frightened at nothing；
reminding myself that even if I were to come to a bad end it would
be no such dreadful matter after all。 I said my prayers； a duty
which I had too often neglected； and in a little time fell into a
really refreshing sleep； which lasted till broad daylight； and
restored me。 I rose； and searching among the embers of my fire； I
found a few live coals and soon had a blaze again。 I got
breakfast； and was delighted to have the company of several small
birds； which hopped about me and perched on my boots and hands。 I
felt comparatively happy； but I can assure the reader that I had
had a far worse time of it than I have told him； and I strongly
recommend him to remain in Europe if he can； or； at any rate； in
some country which has been explored and settled； rather than go
into places where others have not been before him。 Exploring is
delightful to look forward to and back upon； but it is not
comfortable at the time； unless it be of such an easy nature as not
to deserve the name。
CHAPTER V： THE RIVER AND THE RANGE
My next business was to descend upon the river。 I had lost sight
of the pass which I had seen from the saddle； but had made such
notes of it that I could not fail to find it。 I was bruised and
stiff； and my boots had begun to give； for I had been going on
rough ground for more than three weeks； but； as the day wore on；
and I found myself descending without serious difficulty； I became
easier。 In a couple of hours I got among pine forests where there
was little undergrowth； and descended quickly till I reached the
edge of another precipice； which gave me a great deal of trouble；
though I eventually managed to avoid it。 By about three or four
o'clock I found myself on the river…bed。
From calculations which I made as to the height of the valley on
the other side the saddle over which I had come； I concluded that
the saddle itself could not be less than nine thousand feet high；
and I should think that the river…bed； on to which I now descended；
was three thousand feet above the sea…level。 The water had a
terrific current； with a fall of not less than forty to fifty feet
per mile。 It was certainly the river next to the northward of that
which flowed past my master's run； and would have to go through an
impassable gorge （as is commonly the case with the rivers of that
country） before it came upon known parts。 It was reckoned to be
nearly two thousand feet above the sea…level where it came out of
the gorge on to the plains。
As soon as I got to the river side I liked it even less than I
thought I should。 It was muddy； being near its parent glaciers。
The stream was wide； rapid； and rough； and I could hear the smaller
stones knocking against each other under the rage of the waters； as
upon a seashore。 Fording was out of the question。 I could not
swim and carry my swag； and I dared not leave my swag behind me。
My only chance was to make a small raft； and that would be
difficult to make； and not at all safe when it was made；not for
one man in such a current。
As it was too late to do much that afternoon； I spent the rest of
it in going up and down the river side； and seeing where I should
find the most favourable crossing。 Then I camped early； and had a
quiet comfortable night with no more music； for which I was
thankful； as it had hau