Our boat could not be forced very near the dry ground； and our
Highlanders carried us over the water。
We were now treading that illustrious Island； which was once the
luminary of the Caledonian regions； whence savage clans and roving
barbarians derived the benefits of knowledge； and the blessings of
religion。 To abstract the mind from all local emotion would be
impossible； if it were endeavoured； and would be foolish； if it
were possible。 Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses；
whatever makes the past； the distant； or the future predominate
over the present； advances us in the dignity of thinking beings。
Far from me and from my friends； be such frigid philosophy as may
conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has been
dignified by wisdom； bravery； or virtue。 That man is little to be
envied； whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plain of
Marathon； or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of
Iona！
We came too late to visit monuments： some care was necessary for
ourselves。 Whatever was in the Island； Sir Allan could command；
for the inhabitants were Macleans； but having little they could not
give us much。 He went to the headman of the Island； whom Fame； but
Fame delights in amplifying； represents as worth no less than fifty
pounds。 He was perhaps proud enough of his guests； but ill
prepared for our entertainment； however； he soon produced more
provision than men not luxurious require。 Our lodging was next to
be provided。 We found a barn well stocked with hay； and made our
beds as soft as we could。
In the morning we rose and surveyed the place。 The churches of the
two convents are both standing； though unroofed。 They were built
of unhewn stone； but solid； and not inelegant。 I brought away rude
measures of the buildings； such as I cannot much trust myself；
inaccurately taken； and obscurely noted。 Mr。 Pennant's
delineations； which are doubtless exact； have made my unskilful
description less necessary。
The episcopal church consists of two parts； separated by the
belfry； and built at different times。 The original church had；
like others； the altar at one end； and tower at the other： but as
it grew too small； another building of equal dimension was added；
and the tower then was necessarily in the middle。
That these edifices are of different ages seems evident。 The arch
of the first church is Roman； being part of a circle； that of the
additional building is pointed； and therefore Gothick； or
Saracenical； the tower is firm； and wants only to be floored and
covered。
Of the chambers or cells belonging to the monks； there are some
walls remaining； but nothing approaching to a complete apartment。
The bottom of the church is so incumbered with mud and rubbish；
that we could make no discoveries of curious inscriptions； and what
there are have been already published。 The place is said to be
known where the black stones lie concealed； on which the old
Highland Chiefs； when they made contracts and alliances； used to
take the oath； which was considered as more sacred than any other
obligation； and which could not be violated without the blackest
infamy。 In those days of violence and rapine； it was of great
importance to impress upon savage minds the sanctity of an oath； by
some particular and extraordinary circumstances。 They would not
have recourse to the black stones； upon small or common occasions；
and when they had established their faith by this tremendous
sanction； inconstancy and treachery were no longer feared。
The chapel of the nunnery is now used by the inhabitants as a kind
of general cow…house； and the bottom is consequently too miry for
examination。 Some of the stones which covered the later abbesses
have inscriptions； which might yet be read； if the chapel were
cleansed。 The roof of this； as of all the other buildings； is
totally destroyed； not only because timber quickly decays when it
is neglected； but because in an island utterly destitute of wood；
it was wanted for use； and was consequently the first plunder of
needy rapacity。
The chancel of the nuns' chapel is covered with an arch of stone；
to which time has done no injury； and a small apartment
communicating with the choir； on the north side； like the chapter…
house in cathedrals； roofed with stone in the same manner； is
likewise entire。
In one of the churches was a marble altar； which the superstition
of the inhabitants has destroyed。 Their opinion was； that a
fragment of this stone was a defence against shipwrecks； fire； and
miscarriages。 In one corner of the church the bason for holy water
is yet unbroken。
The cemetery of the nunnery was； till very lately； regarded with
such reverence； that only women were buried in it。 These reliques
of veneration always produce some mournful pleasure。 I could have
forgiven a great injury more easily than the violation of this
imaginary sanctity。
South of the chapel stand the walls of a large room； which was
probably the hall； or refectory of the nunnery。 This apartment is
capable of repair。 Of the rest of the convent there are only
fragments。
Besides the two principal churches； there are； I think； five
chapels yet standing； and three more remembered。 There are also
crosses； of which two bear the names of St。 John and St。 Matthew。
A large space of ground about these consecrated edifices is covered
with gravestones； few of which have any inscription。 He that
surveys it； attended by an insular antiquary； may be told where the
Kings of many nations are buried； and if he loves to sooth his
imagination with the thoughts that naturally rise in places where
the great and the powerful lie mingled with the dust； let him
listen in submissive silence； for if he asks any questions； his
delight is at an end。
Iona has long enjoyed； without any very credible attestation； the
honour of being reputed the cemetery of the Scottish Kings。 It is
not unlikely； that； when the opinion of local sanctity was
prevalent； the Chieftains of the Isles； and perhaps some of the
Norwegian or Irish princes were reposited in this venerable
enclosure。 But by whom the subterraneous vaults are peopled is now
utterly unknown。 The graves are very numerous； and some of them
undoubtedly contain the remains of men； who did not expect to be so
soon forgotten。
Not far from this awful ground； may be traced the garden of the
monastery： the fishponds are yet discernible； and the aqueduct；
which supplied them； is still in use。
There remains a broken building； which is called the Bishop's
house； I know not by what authority。 It was once the residence of
some man above the common rank； for it has two stories and a
chimney。 We were shewn a chimney at the other end； which was only
a nich； without perforation； but so much does antiquarian
credulity； or patriotick vanity prevail； that it was not much more
safe to trust the eye of our instructor than the memory。
There is in the Island one house more； and only one； that has a
chimney： we entered it； and found it neither wanting repair nor
inhabitants； but to the farmers； who now possess it； the chimney is
of no great value； for their fire was made on the floor； in the
middle of the room； and notwithstanding the dignity of their
mansion； they rejoiced； like their neighbours； in the comforts of
smoke。
It is observed； that ecclesiastical colleges are always in the most
pleasant and fruitful places。 While the world allowed the monks
their choice； it is surely no dishonour that they chose well。 This
Island is remarkably fruitful。 The village near the churches is
said to contain seventy families； which； at five in a family； is
more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile。 There are perhaps other
villages： yet both corn and cattle are annually exported。
But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole prosperity。 The
inhabitants are remarkably gross； and remarkably neglected： I know
not if they are visited by any Minister。 The Island； which was
once the metropolis of learning and piety； has now no school for
education； nor temple for worship； only two inhabitants that can
speak English； and not one that can write or read。
The people are of the clan of Maclean； and though Sir Allan had not
been in the place for many years； he was received with all the
reverence due to their Chieftain。 One of them being sharply
reprehended by him； for not sending him some rum； declared after
his departure； in Mr。 Boswell's presence； that he had no design of
disappointing him； 'for；' said he； 'I would cut my bones for him；
and if he had sent his dog for it； he should have had it。'
When we were to depart； our boat was left by the ebb at a great
distance from the water； but no sooner did we wish it afloat； than
the islanders gathered round it； and； by the union of many hands；
pushed it down the beach； every man who could contribute his help
seemed to think himself happy in the opportunity of being； for a
moment； useful to his Chief。
We now left those illustrious ruins； by which Mr。 Boswell was much
affected； nor would I willingly be thought to have looked upon them
without some emotion。 Perhaps； in the revolutions of the world；
Iona may be sometime again the instructress of the Western Regions。
It was no long voyage to Mull； where； under Sir Allan's protection；
we landed in the evening； and were entertained for the night by Mr。
Maclean； a Minister that lives upon the coast； whose elegance of
conversation； and strength of judgment； would make him conspicuous
in places of greater celebrity。 Next day we dined with Dr。
Maclean； another physician； and then travelled on to the house of a
very powerful Laird； Maclean of Lochbuy； for in this country every
man's name is Maclean。
Where races are thus numerous； and thus combined； none but the
Chief of a clan is addressed by his name。 The Laird of Dunvegan is
called Macleod； but other gentlemen of the same family are
denominated by the places where they reside； as Raasa； or Talisker。
The distinction of the meaner people is made by their Christian
names。 In consequence of this practice； the late Laird of
Macfarlane； an eminent genealogist； considered