rugged scenery； and full of interestwe were in the heart of the Rocky
Mountains； now。 And we also passed by 〃Alkali〃 or 〃Soda Lake；〃 and we
woke up to the fact that our journey had stretched a long way across the
world when the driver said that the Mormons often came there from Great
Salt Lake City to haul away saleratus。 He said that a few days gone by
they had shoveled up enough pure saleratus from the ground （it was a dry
lake） to load two wagons； and that when they got these two wagons…loads
of a drug that cost them nothing； to Salt Lake； they could sell it for
twenty…five cents a pound。
In the night we sailed by a most notable curiosity； and one we had been
hearing a good deal about for a day or two； and were suffering to see。
This was what might be called a natural ice…house。 It was August； now；
and sweltering weather in the daytime； yet at one of the stations the men
could scape the soil on the hill…side under the lee of a range of
boulders； and at a depth of six inches cut out pure blocks of icehard；
compactly frozen； and clear as crystal！
Toward dawn we got under way again； and presently as we sat with raised
curtains enjoying our early…morning smoke and contemplating the first
splendor of the rising sun as it swept down the long array of mountain
peaks； flushing and gilding crag after crag and summit after summit； as
if the invisible Creator reviewed his gray veterans and they saluted with
a smile； we hove in sight of South Pass City。 The hotel…keeper； the
postmaster； the blacksmith； the mayor； the constable； the city marshal
and the principal citizen and property holder； all came out and greeted
us cheerily； and we gave him good day。 He gave us a little Indian news；
and a little Rocky Mountain news； and we gave him some Plains information
in return。 He then retired to his lonely grandeur and we climbed on up
among the bristling peaks and the ragged clouds。 South Pass City
consisted of four log cabins； one if which was unfinished； and the
gentleman with all those offices and titles was the chiefest of the ten
citizens of the place。 Think of hotel…keeper； postmaster； blacksmith；
mayor； constable； city marshal and principal citizen all condensed into
one person and crammed into one skin。 Bemis said he was 〃a perfect
Allen's revolver of dignities。〃 And he said that if he were to die as
postmaster； or as blacksmith； or as postmaster and blacksmith both； the
people might stand it； but if he were to die all over； it would be a
frightful loss to the community。
Two miles beyond South Pass City we saw for the first time that
mysterious marvel which all Western untraveled boys have heard of and
fully believe in； but are sure to be astounded at when they see it with
their own eyes； neverthelessbanks of snow in dead summer time。 We were
now far up toward the sky； and knew all the time that we must presently
encounter lofty summits clad in the 〃eternal snow〃 which was so common
place a matter of mention in books； and yet when I did see it glittering
in the sun on stately domes in the distance and knew the month was August
and that my coat was hanging up because it was too warm to wear it； I was
full as much amazed as if I never had heard of snow in August before。
Truly； 〃seeing is believing〃and many a man lives a long life through；
thinking he believes certain universally received and well established
things； and yet never suspects that if he were confronted by those things
once； he would discover that he did not really believe them before； but
only thought he believed them。
In a little while quite a number of peaks swung into view with long claws
of glittering snow clasping them； and with here and there； in the shade；
down the mountain side； a little solitary patch of snow looking no larger
than a lady's pocket…handkerchief but being in reality as large as a
〃public square。〃
And now； at last； we were fairly in the renowned SOUTH PASS； and whirling
gayly along high above the common world。 We were perched upon the
extreme summit of the great range of the Rocky Mountains； toward which we
had been climbing； patiently climbing； ceaselessly climbing； for days and
nights togetherand about us was gathered a convention of Nature's kings
that stood ten； twelve； and even thirteen thousand feet highgrand old
fellows who would have to stoop to see Mount Washington； in the twilight。
We were in such an airy elevation above the creeping populations of the
earth； that now and then when the obstructing crags stood out of the way
it seemed that we could look around and abroad and contemplate the whole
great globe； with its dissolving views of mountains； seas and continents
stretching away through the mystery of the summer haze。
As a general thing the Pass was more suggestive of a valley than a
suspension bridge in the cloudsbut it strongly suggested the latter at
one spot。 At that place the upper third of one or two majestic purple
domes projected above our level on either hand and gave us a sense of a
hidden great deep of mountains and plains and valleys down about their
bases which we fancied we might see if we could step to the edge and look
over。 These Sultans of the fastnesses were turbaned with tumbled volumes
of cloud； which shredded away from time to time and drifted off fringed
and torn； trailing their continents of shadow after them； and catching
presently on an intercepting peak； wrapped it about and brooded there
then shredded away again and left the purple peak； as they had left the
purple domes； downy and white with new…laid snow。 In passing； these
monstrous rags of cloud hung low and swept along right over the
spectator's head； swinging their tatters so nearly in his face that his
impulse was to shrink when they came closet。 In the one place I speak
of； one could look below him upon a world of diminishing crags and
canyons leading down； down； and away to a vague plain with a thread in it
which was a road； and bunches of feathers in it which were trees；a
pretty picture sleeping in the sunlightbut with a darkness stealing
over it and glooming its features deeper and deeper under the frown of a
coming storm； and then； while no film or shadow marred the noon
brightness of his high perch； he could watch the tempest break forth down
there and see the lightnings leap from crag to crag and the sheeted rain
drive along the canyon…sides； and hear the thunders peal and crash and
roar。 We had this spectacle； a familiar one to many； but to us a
novelty。
We bowled along cheerily； and presently； at the very summit （though it
had been all summit to us； and all equally level； for half an hour or
more）； we came to a spring which spent its water through two outlets and
sent it in opposite directions。 The conductor said that one of those
streams which we were looking at； was just starting on a journey westward
to the Gulf of California and the Pacific Ocean； through hundreds and
even thousands of miles of desert solitudes。 He said that the other was
just leaving its home among the snow…peaks on a similar journey eastward
and we knew that long after we should have forgotten the simple rivulet
it would still be plodding its patient way down the mountain sides； and
canyon…beds； and between the banks of the Yellowstone； and by and by
would join the broad Missouri and flow through unknown plains and deserts
and unvisited wildernesses； and add a long and troubled pilgrimage among
snags and wrecks and sandbars； and enter the Mississippi； touch the
wharves of St。 Louis and still drift on； traversing shoals and rocky
channels； then endless chains of bottomless and ample bends； walled with
unbroken forests； then mysterious byways and secret passages among woody
islands； then the chained bends again； bordered with wide levels of
shining sugar…cane in place of the sombre forests； then by New Orleans
and still other chains of bendsand finally； after two long months of
daily and nightly harassment； excitement； enjoyment； adventure； and awful
peril of parched throats； pumps and evaporation； pass the Gulf and enter
into its rest upon the bosom of the tropic sea； never to look upon its
snow…peaks again or regret them。
I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at home； and
dropped it in the stream。 But I put no stamp on it and it was held for
postage somewhere。
On the summit we overtook an emigrant train of many wagons； many tired
men and women； and many a disgusted sheep and cow。
In the wofully dusty horseman in charge of the expedition I recognized
John …。 Of all persons in the world to meet on top of the Rocky
Mountains thousands of miles from home； he was the last one I should have
looked for。 We were school…boys together and warm friends for years。
But a boyish prank of mine had disruptured this friendship and it had
never been renewed。 The act of which I speak was this。 I had been
accustomed to visit occasionally an editor whose room was in the third
story of a building and overlooked the street。 One day this editor gave
me a watermelon which I made preparations to devour on the spot； but
chancing to look out of the window； I saw John standing directly under it
and an irresistible desire came upon me to drop the melon on his head；
which I immediately did。 I was the loser； for it spoiled the melon； and
John never forgave me and we dropped all intercourse and parted； but now
met again under these circumstances。
We recognized each other simultaneously； and hands were grasped as warmly
as if no coldness had ever existed between us； and no allusion was made
to any。 All animosities were buried and the simple fact of meeting a
familiar face in that isolated spot so far from home； was sufficient to
make us forget all things but pleasant ones； and we parted again with
sincere 〃good…bye〃 and 〃God bless you〃 from both。
We had been climbing up the long shoulders of the Rocky Mountains for
many tedious hourswe started down them； now。 And we went spinning away
at a round rate too。
We left the snowy Wind River Mountains and Uinta Mountains behind； and
sped away； always through splendid scenery but occasionally through long
ranks of white skeletons of mules and oxenmonuments of th