There； the rocks on the bottom are sometimes gray； sometimes white。
This gives the marvelous transparency of the water a fuller advantage
than it has elsewhere on the lake。 We usually pushed out a hundred yards
or so from shore； and then lay down on the thwarts； in the sun； and let
the boat drift by the hour whither it would。 We seldom talked。
It interrupted the Sabbath stillness； and marred the dreams the luxurious
rest and indolence brought。 The shore all along was indented with deep；
curved bays and coves； bordered by narrow sand…beaches； and where the
sand ended； the steep mountain…sides rose right up aloft into spacerose
up like a vast wall a little out of the perpendicular； and thickly wooded
with tall pines。
So singularly clear was the water； that where it was only twenty or
thirty feet deep the bottom was so perfectly distinct that the boat
seemed floating in the air！ Yes； where it was even eighty feet deep。
Every little pebble was distinct； every speckled trout； every hand's…
breadth of sand。 Often； as we lay on our faces； a granite boulder； as
large as a village church； would start out of the bottom apparently； and
seem climbing up rapidly to the surface； till presently it threatened to
touch our faces； and we could not resist the impulse to seize an oar and
avert the danger。 But the boat would float on； and the boulder descend
again； and then we could see that when we had been exactly above it； it
must still have been twenty or thirty feet below the surface。 Down
through the transparency of these great depths； the water was not merely
transparent； but dazzlingly； brilliantly so。 All objects seen through it
had a bright； strong vividness； not only of outline； but of every minute
detail； which they would not have had when seen simply through the same
depth of atmosphere。 So empty and airy did all spaces seem below us； and
so strong was the sense of floating high aloft in mid…nothingness； that
we called these boat…excursions 〃balloon…voyages。〃
We fished a good deal； but we did not average one fish a week。 We could
see trout by the thousand winging about in the emptiness under us； or
sleeping in shoals on the bottom； but they would not bitethey could see
the line too plainly； perhaps。 We frequently selected the trout we
wanted； and rested the bait patiently and persistently on the end of his
nose at a depth of eighty feet； but he would only shake it off with an
annoyed manner； and shift his position。
We bathed occasionally； but the water was rather chilly； for all it
looked so sunny。 Sometimes we rowed out to the 〃blue water；〃 a mile or
two from shore。 It was as dead blue as indigo there； because of the
immense depth。 By official measurement the lake in its centre is one
thousand five hundred and twenty…five feet deep！
Sometimes； on lazy afternoons； we lolled on the sand in camp； and smoked
pipes and read some old well…worn novels。 At night； by the camp…fire； we
played euchre and seven…up to strengthen the mindand played them with
cards so greasy and defaced that only a whole summer's acquaintance with
them could enable the student to tell the ace of clubs from the jack of
diamonds。
We never slept in our 〃house。〃 It never recurred to us； for one thing；
and besides； it was built to hold the ground； and that was enough。 We
did not wish to strain it。
By and by our provisions began to run short； and we went back to the old
camp and laid in a new supply。 We were gone all day； and reached home
again about night…fall； pretty tired and hungry。 While Johnny was
carrying the main bulk of the provisions up to our 〃house〃 for future
use； I took the loaf of bread； some slices of bacon； and the coffee…pot；
ashore； set them down by a tree； lit a fire； and went back to the boat to
get the frying…pan。 While I was at this； I heard a shout from Johnny；
and looking up I saw that my fire was galloping all over the premises！
Johnny was on the other side of it。 He had to run through the flames to
get to the lake shore； and then we stood helpless and watched the
devastation。
The ground was deeply carpeted with dry pine…needles； and the fire
touched them off as if they were gunpowder。 It was wonderful to see with
what fierce speed the tall sheet of flame traveled！ My coffee…pot was
gone； and everything with it。 In a minute and a half the fire seized
upon a dense growth of dry manzanita chapparal six or eight feet high；
and then the roaring and popping and crackling was something terrific。
We were driven to the boat by the intense heat； and there we remained；
spell…bound。
Within half an hour all before us was a tossing； blinding tempest of
flame！ It went surging up adjacent ridgessurmounted them and
disappeared in the canons beyondburst into view upon higher and farther
ridges； presentlyshed a grander illumination abroad； and dove again
flamed out again； directly； higher and still higher up the mountain…side…
…threw out skirmishing parties of fire here and there； and sent them
trailing their crimson spirals away among remote ramparts and ribs and
gorges； till as far as the eye could reach the lofty mountain…fronts were
webbed as it were with a tangled network of red lava streams。 Away
across the water the crags and domes were lit with a ruddy glare； and the
firmament above was a reflected hell！
Every feature of the spectacle was repeated in the glowing mirror of the
lake！ Both pictures were sublime； both were beautiful； but that in the
lake had a bewildering richness about it that enchanted the eye and held
it with the stronger fascination。
We sat absorbed and motionless through four long hours。 We never thought
of supper； and never felt fatigue。 But at eleven o'clock the
conflagration had traveled beyond our range of vision； and then darkness
stole down upon the landscape again。
Hunger asserted itself now； but there was nothing to eat。 The provisions
were all cooked； no doubt； but we did not go to see。 We were homeless
wanderers again； without any property。 Our fence was gone； our house
burned down； no insurance。 Our pine forest was well scorched； the dead
trees all burned up； and our broad acres of manzanita swept away。 Our
blankets were on our usual sand…bed； however； and so we lay down and went
to sleep。 The next morning we started back to the old camp； but while
out a long way from shore； so great a storm came up that we dared not try
to land。 So I baled out the seas we shipped； and Johnny pulled heavily
through the billows till we had reached a point three or four miles
beyond the camp。 The storm was increasing； and it became evident that it
was better to take the hazard of beaching the boat than go down in a
hundred fathoms of water； so we ran in； with tall white…caps following；
and I sat down in the stern…sheets and pointed her head…on to the shore。
The instant the bow struck； a wave came over the stern that washed crew
and cargo ashore； and saved a deal of trouble。 We shivered in the lee of
a boulder all the rest of the day； and froze all the night through。 In
the morning the tempest had gone down； and we paddled down to the camp
without any unnecessary delay。 We were so starved that we ate up the
rest of the Brigade's provisions； and then set out to Carson to tell them
about it and ask their forgiveness。 It was accorded； upon payment of
damages。
We made many trips to the lake after that； and had many a hair…breadth
escape and blood…curdling adventure which will never be recorded in any
history。
CHAPTER XXIV。
I resolved to have a horse to ride。 I had never seen such wild； free；
magnificent horsemanship outside of a circus as these picturesquely…clad
Mexicans； Californians and Mexicanized Americans displayed in Carson
streets every day。 How they rode！ Leaning just gently forward out of
the perpendicular； easy and nonchalant； with broad slouch…hat brim blown
square up in front； and long riata swinging above the head； they swept
through the town like the wind！ The next minute they were only a sailing
puff of dust on the far desert。 If they trotted； they sat up gallantly
and gracefully； and seemed part of the horse； did not go jiggering up and
down after the silly Miss…Nancy fashion of the riding…schools。 I had
quickly learned to tell a horse from a cow； and was full of anxiety to
learn more。 I was resolved to buy a horse。
While the thought was rankling in my mind； the auctioneer came skurrying
through the plaza on a black beast that had as many humps and corners on
him as a dromedary； and was necessarily uncomely； but he was 〃going；
going； at twenty…two！horse； saddle and bridle at twenty…two dollars；
gentlemen！〃 and I could hardly resist。
A man whom I did not know （he turned out to be the auctioneer's brother）
noticed the wistful look in my eye； and observed that that was a very
remarkable horse to be going at such a price； and added that the saddle
alone was worth the money。 It was a Spanish saddle； with ponderous
'tapidaros'； and furnished with the ungainly sole…leather covering with
the unspellable name。 I said I had half a notion to bid。 Then this
keen…eyed person appeared to me to be 〃taking my measure〃； but I
dismissed the suspicion when he spoke； for his manner was full of
guileless candor and truthfulness。 Said he：
〃I know that horseknow him well。 You are a stranger； I take it； and so
you might think he was an American horse； maybe； but I assure you he is
not。 He is nothing of the kind； butexcuse my speaking in a low voice；
other people being nearhe is； without the shadow of a doubt； a Genuine
Mexican Plug！〃
I did not know what a Genuine Mexican Plug was； but there was something
about this man's way of saying it； that made me swear inwardly that I
would own a Genuine Mexican Plug； or die。
〃Has he any othereradvantages？〃 I inquired； suppressing what
eagerness I could。
He hooked his forefinger in the pocket of my army…shirt； led me to one
side； and breathed in my ear impressively these words：
〃He can out…buck anything in America！〃
〃Going； going； goingat twenttyfour dollars and a half； gen〃
〃Twenty…seven！〃 I shouted； in a frenzy。
〃And sold！〃 said the auctioneer； and passed over the Genuine M