in the particular dialect to which the vocabulary or grammar is
devoted。 Of all these prefaces the one to the Irish is the most
curious and remarkable。 The first part of the Archaeologia was
published at Oxford in 1707； two years before the death of the
author。 Of his correspondence； which was very extensive； several
letters have been published； all of them relating to philology；
antiquities； and natural history。
CHAPTER XC
An Adventure … Spytty Ystwyth … Wormwood。
SHORTLY after leaving the grounds of Hafod I came to a bridge over
the Ystwyth。 I crossed it； and was advancing along the road which
led apparently to the south…east； when I came to a company of
people who seemed to be loitering about。 It consisted entirely of
young men and women； the former with crimson favours； the latter in
the garb of old Wales； blue tunics and sharp crowned hats。 Going
up to one of the young women； I said； 〃Petti yw？ what's the
matter！〃
〃Priodas （a marriage）；〃 she replied； after looking at me
attentively。 I then asked her the name of the bridge； whereupon
she gave a broad grin； and after some； little time replied： 〃Pont
y Groes （the bridge of the cross）。〃 I was about to ask her some
other question when she turned away with a loud chuckle； and said
something to another wench near her； who； grinning yet more
uncouthly； said something to a third； who grinned too； and lifting
up her hands and spreading her fingers wide； said： 〃Dyn oddi dir y
Gogledd … a man from the north country； hee； hee！〃 Forthwith there
was a general shout； the wenches crying： 〃A man from the north
country； hee； hee！〃 and the fellows crying： 〃A man from the north
country； hoo； hoo！〃
〃Is this the way you treat strangers in the south？〃 said I。 But I
had scarcely uttered the words when with redoubled shouts the
company exclaimed： 〃There's Cumraeg！ there's pretty Cumraeg。 Go
back； David； to shire Fon！ That Cumraeg won't pass here。〃
Finding they disliked my Welsh I had recourse to my own language。
〃Really；〃 said I in English； 〃such conduct is unaccountable。 What
do you mean？〃 But this only made matters worse； for the shouts
grew louder still； and every one cried： 〃There's pretty English！
Well； if I couldn't speak better English than that I'd never speak
English at all。 No； David； if you must speak at all； stick to
Cumraeg。〃 Then forthwith； all the company set themselves in
violent motion； the women rushing up to me with their palms and
fingers spread out in my face； without touching me； however； as
they wheeled round me at about a yard's distance； crying： 〃A man
from the north country； hee； hee！〃 and the fellows acting just in
the same way； rushing up with their hands spread out； and then
wheeling round me with cries of 〃A man from the north country； hoo；
hoo！〃 I was so enraged that I made for a heap of stones by the
road…side； intending to take some up and fling them at the company。
Reflecting； however； that I had but one pair of hands and the
company at least forty； and that by such an attempt at revenge I
should only make myself ridiculous； I gave up my intention； and
continued my journey at a rapid pace； pursued for a long way by
〃hee； hee；〃 and 〃hoo； hoo；〃 and： 〃Go back； David； to your goats in
Anglesey； you are not wanted here。〃
I began to descend a hill forming the eastern side of an immense
valley； at the bottom of which rolled the river。 Beyond the valley
to the west was an enormous hill； on the top of which was a most
singular…looking crag； seemingly leaning in the direction of the
south。 On the right…hand side of the road were immense works of
some kind in full play and activity； for engines were clanging and
puffs of smoke were ascending from tall chimneys。 On inquiring of
a boy the name of the works I was told that they were called the
works of Level Vawr； or the Great Level； a mining establishment；
but when I asked him the name of the hill with the singular peak；
on the other side of the valley； he shook his head and said he did
not know。 Near the top of the hill I came to a village consisting
of a few cottages and a shabby…looking church。 A rivulet
descending from some crags to the east crosses the road； which
leads through the place； and tumbling down the valley； joins the
Ystwyth at the bottom。 Seeing a woman standing at the door； I
inquired the name of the village。
〃Spytty Ystwyth；〃 she replied； but she； no more than the boy down
below； could tell me the name of the strange…looking hill across
the valley。 This second Spytty or monastic hospital； which I had
come to； looked in every respect an inferior place to the first。
Whatever its former state might have been； nothing but dirt and
wretchedness were now visible。 Having reached the top of the hill
I entered upon a wild moory region。 Presently I crossed a little
bridge over a rivulet； and seeing a small house on the shutter of
which was painted 〃cwrw；〃 I went in； sat down on an old chair；
which I found vacant； and said in English to an old woman who sat
knitting by the window： 〃Bring me a pint of ale！〃
〃Dim Saesneg！〃 said the old woman。
〃I told you to bring me a pint of ale；〃 said I to her in her own
language。
〃You shall have it immediately； sir；〃 said she； and going to a
cask； she filled a jug with ale； and after handing it to me resumed
her seat and knitting。
〃It is not very bad ale；〃 said I； after I had tasted it。
〃It ought to be very good；〃 said the old woman； 〃for I brewed it
myself。〃
〃The goodness of ale；〃 said I； 〃does not so much depend on who
brews it as on what it is brewed of。 Now there is something in
this ale which ought not to be。 What is it made of？〃
〃Malt and hop。〃
〃It tastes very bitter；〃 said I。 〃Is there no chwerwlys （13） in
it？〃
〃I do not know what chwerwlys is；〃 said the old woman。
〃It is what the Saxons call wormwood；〃 said I。
〃Oh； wermod。 No； there is no wermod in my beer； at least not
much。〃
〃Oh； then there is some； I thought there was。 Why do you put such
stuff into your ale？〃
〃We are glad to put it in sometimes when hops are dear； as they are
this year。 Moreover； wermod is not bad stuff； and some folks like
the taste better than that of hops。〃
〃Well； I don't。 However； the ale is drinkable。 What am I to give
you for the pint？〃
〃You are to give me a groat。〃
〃That is a great deal；〃 said I； 〃for a groat I ought to have a pint
of ale made of the best malt and hops。〃
〃I give you the best I can afford。 One must live by what one
sells。 I do not find that easy work。〃
〃Is this house your own？〃
〃Oh no！ I pay rent for it； and not a cheap one。〃
〃Have you a husband？
〃I had； but he is dead。〃
〃Have you any children？〃
〃I had three； but they are dead too； and buried with my husband at
the monastery。〃
〃Where is the monastery？〃
〃A good way farther on； at the strath beyond Rhyd Fendigaid。〃
〃What is the name of the little river by the house？〃
〃Avon Marchnad （Market River）。〃
〃Why is it called Avon Marchnad？〃
〃Truly； gentleman； I cannot tell you。〃
I went on sipping my ale and finding fault with its bitterness till
I had finished it； when getting up I gave the old lady her groat；
bade her farewell； and departed。
CHAPTER XCI
Pont y Rhyd Fendigaid … Strata Florida … The Yew…Tree … Idolatry …
The Teivi … The Llostlydan。
AND now for the resting…place of Dafydd Ab Gwilym！ After wandering
for some miles towards the south over a bleak moory country I came
to a place called Fair Rhos； a miserable village； consisting of a
few half…ruined cottages； situated on the top of a hill。 From the
hill I looked down on a wide valley of a russet colour； along which
a river ran towards the south。 The whole scene was cheerless。
Sullen hills were all around。 Descending the hill I entered a
large village divided into two by the river； which here runs from
east to west； but presently makes a turn。 There was much mire in
the street； immense swine lay in the mire； who turned up their
snouts at me as I passed。 Women in Welsh hats stood in the mire；
along with men without any hats at all； but with short pipes in
their mouths； they were talking together； as I passed； however；
they held their tongues； the women leering contemptuously at me；
the men glaring sullenly at me； and causing tobacco smoke curl in
my face； on my taking off my hat； however and inquiring the way to
the Monachlog； everybody was civil enough； and twenty voices told
me the way the Monastery。 I asked the name of the river：
〃The Teivi； sir： the Teivi。〃
〃The name of the bridge？〃
〃Pony y Rhyd Fendigaid … the Bridge of the Blessed Ford； sir。〃
I crossed the Bridge of the Blessed Ford； and presently leaving the
main road； I turned to the east by a dung…hill； up a narrow lane
parallel with the river。 After proceeding a mile up the lane；
amidst trees and copses； and crossing a little brook； which runs
into the Teivi； out of which I drank； I saw before me in the midst
of a field； in which were tombstones and broken ruins； a rustic…
looking church； a farm…house stood near it； in the garden of which
stood the framework of a large gateway。 I crossed over into the
churchyard； ascended a green mound； and looked about me。 I was now
in the very midst of the Monachlog Ystrad Flur； the celebrated
monastery of Strata Florida； to which in old times Popish pilgrims
from all parts of the world repaired。 The scene was solemn and
impressive： on the north side of the river a large bulky hill
looked down upon the ruins and the church； and on the south side；
some way behind the farm…house； was another which did the same。
Rugged mountains formed the background of the valley to the east；
down from which came murmuring the fleet but shallow Teivi。 Such
is the scenery which surrounds what remains of Strata Florida：
those scanty broken ruins compose all which remains of that
celebrated monastery； in which saints and mitred abbots were
buried； and in which； or in whose precincts； was buried Dafydd Ab
Gwilym； the greatest genius of the Cimbric race and one