about them。 Why； they are hand and glove with the Queen and
Prince； and folks say that his wife is going to be made dame of
honour； and Jasper Justice of the Peace and Deputy Ranger of
Windsor Park。〃
〃Only think；〃 said I。 〃And now tell me； what brought you into
Wales？〃
〃What brought me into Wales？ I'll tell you； my own fool's head。 I
was doing nicely in the Kaulo Gav and the neighbourhood； when I
must needs pack up and come into these parts with bag and baggage；
wife and childer。 I thought that Wales was what it was some thirty
years agone when our foky used to say … for I was never here before
… that there was something to be done in it； but I was never more
mistaken in my life。 The country is overrun with Hindity mescrey；
woild Irish； with whom the Romany foky stand no chance。 The
fellows underwork me at tinkering； and the women outscream my wife
at telling fortunes … moreover； they say the country is theirs and
not intended for niggers like we； and as they are generally in vast
numbers what can a poor little Roman family do but flee away before
them？ A pretty journey I have made into Wales。 Had I not
contrived to pass off a poggado bav engro … a broken…winded horse …
at a fair； I at this moment should be without a tringoruschee piece
in my pocket。 I am now making the best of my way back to
Brummagem； and if ever I come again to this Hindity country may
Calcraft nash me。〃
〃I wonder you didn't try to serve some of the Irish out；〃 said I。
〃I served one out； brother； and my wife and childer helped to wipe
off a little of the score。 We had stopped on a nice green； near a
village over the hills in Glamorganshire； when up comes a Hindity
family； and bids us take ourselves off。 Now it so happened that
there was but one man and a woman and some childer； so I laughed；
and told them to drive us off。 Well； brother； without many words；
there was a regular scrimmage。 The Hindity mush came at me； the
Hindity mushi at y my juwa； and the Hindity chaves at my chai。 It
didn't last long； brother。 In less than three minutes I had hit
the Hindity mush； who was a plaguey big fellow； but couldn't fight；
just under the point of the chin； and sent him to the ground with
all his senses gone。 My juwa had almost scratched an eye out of
the Hindity mushi； and my chai had sent the Hindity childer
scampering over the green。 'Who has got to quit now？' said I to
the Hindity mush after he had got on his legs； looking like a man
who has been cut down after hanging just a minute and a half。 'Who
has got notice to quit； now； I wonder？' Well； brother； he didn't
say anything； nor did any of them； but after a little time they all
took themselves off； with a cart they had； to the south。 Just as
they got to the edge of the green； however； they turned round and
gave a yell which made all our blood run cold。 I knew what it
meant； and said； 'This is no place for us。' So we got everything
together and came away and； though the horses were tired； never
stopped till we had got ten miles from the place； and well it was
we acted as we did； for； had we stayed； I have no doubt that a
whole Hindity clan would have been down upon us before morning and
cut our throats。〃
〃Well；〃 said I； 〃farewell。 I can't stay any longer。 As it is； I
shall be late at Gutter Vawr。〃
〃Farewell； brother！〃 said Captain Bosvile； and； giving a cry； he
cracked； his whip and set his horses in motion。
〃Won't you give us sixpence to drink？〃 cried Mrs Bosvile； with a
rather shrill voice。
〃Hold your tongue； you she…dog；〃 said Captain Bosvile。 〃Is that
the way in which you take leave of an old friend？ Hold your
tongue； and let the Ingrine gentleman jaw on his way。〃
I proceeded on my way as fast as I could； for the day was now
closing in。 My progress； however； was not very great； for the road
was steep； and was continually becoming more so。 In about half…an…
hour I came to a little village； consisting of three or four
houses； one of them； at the door of which several carts were
standing； bore the sign of a tavern。
〃What is the name of this place？〃 said I to a man who was breaking
stones on the road。
〃Capel Gwynfa；〃 said he。
Rather surprised at the name； which signifies in English the Chapel
of the place of bliss； I asked the man why it was called so。
〃I don't know；〃 said the man。
〃Was there ever a chapel here？〃 said I。
〃I don't know； sir； there is none now。〃
〃I daresay there was in the old time；〃 said I to myself； as I went
on； 〃in which some holy hermit prayed and told his beads； and
occasionally received benighted strangers。 What a poetical word
that Gwynfa； place of bliss； is。 Owen Pugh uses it in his
translation of 'Paradise Lost' to express Paradise； for he has
rendered the words Paradise Lost by Col Gwynfa … the loss of the
place of bliss。 I wonder whether the old scholar picked up the
word here。 Not unlikely。 Strange fellow that Owen Pugh。 Wish I
had seen him。 No hope of seeing him now； except in the heavenly
Gwynfa。 Wonder whether there is such a place。 Tom Payne thinks
there's not。 Strange fellow that Tom Payne。 Norfolk man。 Wish I
had never read him。〃
Presently I came to a little cottage with a toll…bar。 Seeing a
woman standing at the door； I inquired of her the name of the gate。
〃Cowslip Gate； sir。〃
〃Has it any Welsh name？〃
〃None that I know of； sir。〃
This place was at a considerable altitude； and commanded an
extensive view to the south； west； and north。 Heights upon heights
rose behind it to the east。 From here the road ran to the south
for a little way nearly level； then turned abruptly to the east；
and was more steep than ever。 After the turn； I had a huge chalk
cliff towering over me on the right； and a chalk precipice on my
left。 Night was now coming on fast； and； rather to my uneasiness；
masses of mist began to pour down the sides of the mountain。 I
hurried on； the road making frequent turnings。 Presently the mist
swept down upon me； and was so thick that I could only see a few
yards before me。 I was now obliged to slacken my pace； and to
advance with some degree of caution。 I moved on in this way for
some time； when suddenly I heard a noise； as if a number of carts
were coming rapidly down the hill。 I stopped； and stood with my
back close against the high bank。 The noise drew nearer； and in a
minute I saw distinctly through the mist； horses； carts； and forms
of men passing。 In one or two cases the wheels appeared to be
within a few inches of my feet。 I let the train go by； and then
cried out in English； 〃Am I right for Gutter Vawr？〃
〃Hey？〃 said a voice； after a momentary interval。
〃Am I right for Gutter Vawr？〃 I shouted yet louder。
〃Yes sure！〃 said a voice； probably the same。
Then instantly a much rougher voice cried； 〃Who the Devil are you？〃
I made no answer； but went on； whilst the train continued its way
rumbling down the mountain。 At length I gained the top； where the
road turned and led down a steep descent towards the south…west。
It was now quite night； and the mist was of the thickest kind。 I
could just see that there was a frightful precipice on my left； so
I kept to the right； hugging the side of the hill。 As I descended
I heard every now and then loud noises in the vale； probably
proceeding from stone quarries。 I was drenched to the skin； nay；
through the skin； by the mist； which I verily believe was more
penetrating than that described by Ab Gwilym。 When I had proceeded
about a mile I saw blazes down below； resembling those of furnaces；
and soon after came to the foot of the hill。 It was here pouring
with rain； but I did not put up my umbrella； as it was impossible
for me to be more drenched than I was。 Crossing a bridge over a
kind of torrent； I found myself amongst some houses。 I entered one
of them from which a blaze of light and a roar of voices proceeded；
and； on inquiring of an old woman who confronted me in the passage；
I found that I had reached my much needed haven of rest； the tavern
of Gutter Vawr in the county of Glamorgan。
CHAPTER XCIX
Inn at Gutter Vawr … The Hurly…burly … Bara y Caws … Change of
Manner … Welsh Mistrust … Wonders of Russia … The Emperor … The
Grand Ghost Story。
THE old woman who confronted me in the passage of the inn turned
out to be the landlady。 On learning that I intended to pass the
night at her house； she conducted me into a small room on the
right…hand side of the passage； which proved to be the parlour。 It
was cold and comfortless； for there was no fire in the grate。 She
told me； however； that one should be lighted； and going out；
presently returned with a couple of buxom wenches； who I soon found
were her daughters。 The good lady had little or no English； the
girls； however； had plenty； and of a good kind too。 They soon
lighted a fire； and then the mother inquired if I wished for any
supper。
〃Certainly；〃 said I； 〃for I have not eaten anything since I left
Llandovery。 What can I have？〃
〃We have veal and bacon；〃 said she。
〃That will do；〃 said I； 〃fry me some veal and bacon； and I shan't
complain。 But pray tell what prodigious noise is that which I hear
on the other side of the passage？〃
〃It is only the miners and the carters in the kitchen making
merry；〃 said one of the girls。
〃Is there a good fire there？〃 said I。
〃Oh yes；〃 said the girl； 〃we have always a good fire in the
kitchen。〃
〃Well then；〃 said I； 〃I shall go there till supper is ready； for I
am wet to the skin； and this fire casts very little heat。〃
〃You will find them a rough set in the kitchen；〃 said the girl。
〃I don't care if I do〃 said I； 〃when people are rough I am civil；
and I have always found that civility beats roughness in the long
run。〃 Then going out I crossed the passage and entered the
kitchen。
It was nearly filled with rough unkempt fellows； smoking； drinking；
whistling； singing； shouting or jabbering； some in a standing； some
in a sitting； posture。 My entrance seemed at once to bring
everything to a dead stop； the smokers ceased to smok