north； a wooded height； when an extraordinary scene presented
itself to my eyes。 Somewhat to the south rose immense stacks of
chimneys surrounded by grimy diabolical…looking buildings； in the
neighbourhood of which were huge heaps of cinders and black
rubbish。 From the chimneys； notwithstanding it was Sunday； smoke
was proceeding in volumes； choking the atmosphere all around。 From
this pandemonium； at the distance of about a quarter of a mile to
the south…west； upon a green meadow； stood； looking darkly grey； a
ruin of vast size with window holes； towers； spires； and arches。
Between it and the accursed pandemonium； lay a horrid filthy place；
part of which was swamp and part pool： the pool black as soot； and
the swamp of a disgusting leaden colour。 Across this place of
filth stretched a tramway leading seemingly from the abominable
mansions to the ruin。 So strange a scene I had never beheld in
nature。 Had it been on canvas； with the addition of a number of
Diabolical figures； proceeding along the tramway； it might have
stood for Sabbath in Hell … devils proceeding to afternoon worship；
and would have formed a picture worthy of the powerful but insane
painter； Jerome Bos。
After standing for a considerable time staring at the strange
spectacle I proceeded。 Presently meeting a lad； I asked him what
was the name of the ruin。
〃The Abbey；〃 he replied。
〃Neath Abbey？〃 said I。
〃Yes！〃
Having often heard of this abbey； which in its day was one of the
most famous in Wales； I determined to go and inspect it。 It was
with some difficulty that I found my way to it。 It stood； as I
have already observed； in a meadow； and was on almost every side
surrounded by majestic hills。 To give any clear description of
this ruined pile would be impossible； the dilapidation is so great；
dilapidation evidently less the effect of time than of awful
violence； perhaps that of gunpowder。 The southern is by far the
most perfect portion of the building； there you see not only walls
but roofs。 Fronting you full south； is a mass of masonry with two
immense arches； other arches behind them： entering； you find
yourself beneath a vaulted roof； and passing on you come to an
oblong square which may have been a church； an iron…barred window
on your right enables you to look into a mighty vault； the roof of
which is supported by beautiful pillars。 Then … but I forbear to
say more respecting these remains； for fear of stating what is
incorrect； my stay amongst them having been exceedingly short。
The Abbey of Glen Neath was founded in the twelfth century by
Richard Grenfield； one of the followers of Robert Fitzhamon； who
subjugated Glamorgan。 Neath Abbey was a very wealthy one； the
founder having endowed it with extensive tracts of fertile land
along the banks of the rivers Neath and Tawy。 In it the
unfortunate Edward of Carnarvon sought a refuge for a few days from
the rage of his revolted barons； whilst his favourite； the equally
unfortunate Spencer； endeavoured to find a covert amidst the
thickets of the wood…covered hill to the north。 When Richmond
landed at Milford Haven to dispute the crown with Richard the
Second； the then Abbot of Neath repaired to him and gave him his
benediction； in requital for which the adventurer gave him his
promise that in the event of his obtaining the crown； he would
found a college in Glen Neath； which promise； however； after he had
won the crown； he forgot to perform。 （20） The wily abbot； when he
hastened to pay worship to what he justly conceived to be the
rising sun； little dreamt that he was about to bless the future
father of the terrible man doomed by Providence to plant the
abomination of desolation in Neath Abbey and in all the other nests
of monkery throughout the land。
Leaving the ruins I proceeded towards Neath。 The scenery soon
became very beautiful； not that I had left machinery altogether
behind； for I presently came to a place where huge wheels were
turning； and there was smoke and blast； but there was much that was
rural and beautiful to be seen； something like park scenery； and
then there were the mountains near and in the distance。 I reached
Neath at about half…past four； and took up my quarters at an inn
which had been recommended to me by my friend the boots at Swansea。
CHAPTER CIII
Town of Neath … Hounds and Huntsman … Spectral Chapel … The Glowing
Mountain
NEATH is a place of some antiquity； for it can boast of the remains
of a castle and is a corporate town。 There is but little Welsh
spoken in it。 It is situated on the Neath； and exports vast
quantities of coal and iron； of both of which there are rich mines
in the neighbourhood。 It derives its name from the river Nedd or
Neth； on which it stands。 Nedd or Neth is the same word as Nith；
the name of a river in Scotland； and is in some degree connected
with Nidda； the name of one in Germany。 Nedd in Welsh signifies a
dingle； and the word in its various forms has always something to
do with lowness or inferiority of position。 Amongst its forms are
Nether and Nieder。 The term is well applied to the Glamorganshire
river； which runs through dingles and under mountains。
The Neath has its source in the mountains of Brecon； and enters the
sea some little way below the town of Neath。
On the Monday morning I resumed my journey； directing my course up
the vale of Neath towards Merthyr Tydvil； distant about four…and…
twenty miles。 The weather was at first rainy； misty and miserable；
but improved by degrees。 I passed through a village which I was
told was called Llanagos； close to it were immense establishments
of some kind。 The scenery soon became exceedingly beautiful； hills
covered with wood to the tops were on either side of the dale。 I
passed an avenue leading somewhere through groves； and was
presently overtaken and passed by hounds and a respectable…looking
old huntsman on a black horse； a minute afterwards I caught a
glimpse of an old red…brick mansion nearly embosomed in groves；
from which proceeded a mighty cawing。 Probably it belonged to the
proprietor of the dogs； and certainly looked a very fit mansion for
a Glamorganshire squire； justice of the peace and keeper of a pack
of hounds。
I went on； the vale increasing in beauty； there was a considerable
drawback； however： one of those detestable contrivances； a
railroad； was on the farther side … along which trains were
passing； rumbling and screaming。
I saw a bridge on my right hand with five or six low arches over
the river； which was here full of shoals。 Asked a woman the name
of the bridge。
〃PONT FAWR ei galw； sir。〃
I was again amongst the real Welsh … this woman had no English。
I passed by several remarkable mountains； both on the south and
northern side of the vale。 Late in the afternoon I came to the
eastern extremity of the vale and ascended a height。 Shortly
afterwards I reached Rhigos； a small village。
Entering a public…house I called for ale and sat down amidst some
grimy fellows； who said nothing to me and to whom I said nothing …
their discourse was in Welsh and English。 Of their Welsh I
understood but little； for it was a strange corrupt jargon。 In
about half…an…hour after leaving this place I came to the beginning
of a vast moor。 It was now growing rather dusk； and I could see
blazes here and there； occasionally I heard horrid sounds。 Came to
Irvan； an enormous mining…place with a spectral…looking chapel；
doubtless a Methodist one。 The street was crowded with rough；
savage…looking men。 〃Is this the way to Merthyr Tydvil？〃 said I to
one。
〃Yes！〃 bawled the fellow at the utmost stretch of his voice。
〃Thank you！〃 said I； taking off my hat and passing on。
Forward I went； up hill and down dale。 Night now set in。 I passed
a grove of trees and presently came to a collection of small houses
at the bottom of a little hollow。 Hearing a step near me I stopped
and said in Welsh： 〃How far to Merthyr Tydvil？〃
〃Dim Cumrag； sir！〃 said a voice； seemingly that of a man。
〃Good night！〃 said I； and without staying to put the question in
English； I pushed on up an ascent； and was presently amongst trees。
Heard for a long time the hooting of an owl or rather the frantic
hollo。 Appeared to pass by where the bird had its station。 Toiled
up an acclivity and when on the top stood still and looked around
me。 There was a glow on all sides in the heaven； except in the
north…east quarter。 Striding on I saw a cottage on my left hand；
and standing at the door the figure of a woman。 〃How far to
Merthyr？〃 said I in Welsh。
〃Tair milltir … three miles； sir。〃
Turning round a corner at the top of a hill I saw blazes here and
there； and what appeared to be a glowing mountain in the south…
east。 I went towards it down a descent which continued for a long；
long way； so great was the light cast by the blazes and that
wonderful glowing object； that I could distinctly see the little
stones upon the road。 After walking about half…an…hour； always
going downwards； I saw a house on my left hand and heard a noise of
water opposite to it。 It was a pistyll。 I went to it； drank
greedily； and then hurried on。 More and more blazes； and the
glowing object looking more terrible than ever。 It was now above
me at some distance to the left； and I could see that it was an
immense quantity of heated matter like lava； occupying the upper
and middle parts of a hill； and descending here and there almost to
the bottom in a zigzag and tortuous manner。 Between me and the
hill of the burning object lay a deep ravine。 After a time I came
to a house； against the door of which a man was leaning。 〃What is
all that burning stuff above； my friend？〃
〃Dross from the iron forges； sir！〃
I now perceived a valley below me full of lights； and descending
reached houses and a tramway。 I had blazes now all around me。 I
went through a filthy slough； over a bridge； and up a street； from
which dirty lanes branched off on either side； passed throngs of
savage…looking people talking clamorously