and bark。 A small tree formed a bridge across the brook to the
sheds。
〃It is there；〃 said John Jones； 〃that the husband of the woman with
whom we have been speaking works； felling trees from the alder
swamp and cutting them up into blocks。 I see there is no work
going on at present or we would go over … the woman told me that
her husband was at Llangollen。〃
〃What a strange place to come to work at；〃 said I； 〃out of crowded
England。 Here is nothing to be heard but the murmuring of waters
and the rushing of wind down the gulleys。 If the man's head is not
full of poetical fancies； which I suppose it is not； as in that
case he would be unfit for any useful employment； I don't wonder at
his occasionally going to the public…house。〃
After going a little further up the glen and observing nothing more
remarkable than we had seen already； we turned back。 Being
overtaken by another violent shower just as we reached the Pandy I
thought that we could do no better than shelter ourselves within
the public…house； and taste the ale； which the wife of the clog…
maker had praised。 We entered the little hostelry which was one of
two or three shabby…looking houses； standing in contact； close by
the Ceiriog。 In a kind of little back room； lighted by a good fire
and a window which looked up the Ceiriog valley； we found the
landlady； a gentlewoman with a wooden leg； who on perceiving me got
up from a chair； and made me the best curtsey that I ever saw made
by a female with such a substitute for a leg of flesh and bone。
There were three men； sitting with jugs of ale near them on a table
by the fire； two were seated on a bench by the wall； and the other
on a settle with a high back； which ran from the wall just by the
door； and shielded those by the fire from the draughts of the
doorway。 He of the settle no sooner beheld me than he sprang up；
and placing a chair for me by the fire bade me in English be
seated； and then resumed his own seat。 John Jones soon finding a
chair came and sat down by me； when I forthwith called for a quart
of cwrw da。 The landlady bustled about on her wooden leg and
presently brought us the ale with two glasses； which I filled； and
taking one drank to the health of the company who returned us
thanks； the man of the settle in English rather broken。 Presently
one of his companions getting up paid his reckoning and departed；
the other remained； a stout young fellow dressed something like a
stone…mason； which indeed I soon discovered that he was … he was
far advanced towards a state of intoxication and talked very
incoherently about the war； saying that he hoped it would soon
terminate； for that if it continued he was afraid he might stand a
chance of being shot； as he was a private in the Denbighshire
Militia。 I told him that it was the duty of every gentleman in the
militia to be willing at all times to lay down his life in the
service of the Queen。 The answer which he made I could not exactly
understand； his utterance being very indistinct and broken； it was；
however； made with some degree of violence； with two or three Myn
Diawls； and a blow on the table with his clenched fist。 He then
asked me whether I thought the militia would be again called out。
〃Nothing more probable；〃 said I。
〃And where would they be sent to？〃
〃Perhaps to Ireland；〃 was my answer； whereupon he started up with
another Myn Diawl； expressing the greatest dread of being sent to
Iwerddon。
〃You ought to rejoice in your chance of going there；〃 said I；
〃Iwerddon is a beautiful country； and abounds with whisky。〃
〃And the Irish？〃 said he。
〃Hearty； jolly fellows；〃 said I； 〃if you know how to manage them；
and all gentlemen。〃
Here he became very violent； saying that I did not speak truth； for
that he had seen plenty of Irish camping amidst the hills； that the
men were half naked and the women were three parts so； and that
they carried their children on their backs。 He then said that he
hoped somebody would speedily kill Nicholas； in order that the war
might be at an end and himself not sent to Iwerddon。 He then asked
if I thought Cronstadt could be taken。 I said I believed it could；
provided the hearts of those who were sent to take it were in the
right place。
〃Where do you think the hearts of those are who are gone against
it？〃 said he … speaking with great vehemence。
I made no other answer than by taking my glass and drinking。
His companion now looking at our habiliments which were in rather a
dripping condition asked John Jones if we had come from far。
〃We have been to Pont y Meibion；〃 said Jones； 〃to see the chair of
Huw Morris；〃 adding that the Gwr Boneddig was a great admirer of
the songs of the Eos Ceiriog。
He had no sooner said these words than the intoxicated militiaman
started up； and striking the table with his fist said： 〃I am a
poor stone…cutter … this is a rainy day and I have come here to
pass it in the best way I can。 I am somewhat drunk； but though I
am a poor stone…mason； a private in the militia； and not so sober
as I should be； I can repeat more of the songs of the Eos than any
man alive； however great a gentleman； however sober … more than Sir
Watkin； more than Colonel Biddulph himself。〃
He then began to repeat what appeared to be poetry； for I could
distinguish the rhymes occasionally； though owing to his broken
utterance it was impossible for me to make out the sense of the
words。 Feeling a great desire to know what verses of Huw Morris
the intoxicated youth would repeat； I took out my pocket…book and
requested Jones； who was much better acquainted with Welsh
pronunciation； under any circumstances； than myself； to endeavour
to write down from the mouth of the young fellow any verses
uppermost in his mind。 Jones took the pocket…book and pencil and
went to the window； followed by the young man scarcely able to
support himself。 Here a curious scene took place； the drinker
hiccuping up verses； and Jones dotting them down； in the best
manner he could； though he had evidently great difficulty to
distinguish what was said to him。 At last； methought； the young
man said … 〃There they are； the verses of the Nightingale； on his
death…bed。〃
I took the book and read aloud the following lines beautifully
descriptive of the eagerness of a Christian soul to leave its
perishing tabernacle； and get to Paradise and its Creator：…
〃Myn'd i'r wyl ar redeg；
I'r byd a beryi chwaneg；
I Beradwys； y ber wiw deg；
Yn Enw Duw yn union deg。〃
〃Do you understand those verses？〃 said the man on the settle； a
dark swarthy fellow with an oblique kind of vision； and dressed in
a pepper…and…salt coat。
〃I will translate them；〃 said I； and forthwith put them into
English … first into prose and then into rhyme； the rhymed version
running thus：…
〃Now to my rest I hurry away；
To the world which lasts for ever and aye；
To Paradise； the beautiful place；
Trusting alone in the Lord of Grace〃 …
〃Well；〃 said he of the pepper…and…salt； 〃if that isn't capital I
don't know what is。〃
A scene in a public…house； yes！ but in a Welsh public…house。 Only
think of a Suffolk toper repeating the death…bed verses of a poet；
surely there is a considerable difference between the Celt and the
Saxon。
CHAPTER XXII
Llangollen Fair … Buyers and Sellers … The Jockey … The Greek Cap。
ON the twenty…first was held Llangollen Fair。 The day was dull
with occasional showers。 I went to see the fair about noon。 It
was held in and near a little square in the south…east quarter of
the town； of which square the police…station is the principal
feature on the side of the west； and an inn； bearing the sign of
the Grapes； on the east。 The fair was a little bustling fair；
attended by plenty of people from the country； and from the English
border； and by some who appeared to come from a greater distance
than the border。 A dense row of carts extended from the police…
station half across the space； these carts were filled with pigs；
and had stout cord…nettings drawn over them； to prevent the animals
escaping。 By the sides of these carts the principal business of
the fair appeared to be going on … there stood the owners male and
female； higgling with Llangollen men and women； who came to buy。
The pigs were all small； and the price given seemed to vary from
eighteen to twenty…five shillings。 Those who bought pigs generally
carried them away in their arms； and then there was no little
diversion； dire was the screaming of the porkers； yet the purchaser
invariably appeared to know how to manage his bargain； keeping the
left arm round the body of the swine and with the right hand fast
gripping the ear … some few were led away by strings。 There were
some Welsh cattle； small of course； and the purchasers of these
seemed to be Englishmen； tall burly fellows in general； far
exceeding the Welsh in height and size。
Much business in the cattle…line did not seem； however； to be going
on。 Now and then a big fellow made an offer； and held out his hand
for a little Pictish grazier to give it a slap … a cattle bargain
being concluded by a slap of the hand … but the Welshman generally
turned away； with a half resentful exclamation。 There were a few
horses and ponies in the street leading into the fair from the
south。
I saw none sold； however。 A tall athletic figure was striding
amongst them； evidently a jockey and a stranger； looking at them
and occasionally asking a slight question of one or another of
their proprietors； but he did not buy。 He might in age be about
eight…and…twenty； and about six feet and three…quarters of an inch
in height； in build he was perfection itself； a better built man I
never saw。 He wore a cap and a brown jockey coat； trowsers；
leggings and high…lows； and sported a single spur。 He had whiskers
… all jockeys should have whiskers … but he had what I did not
like； and what no genuine jockey should have； a moustache； which
looks coxcombical and Frenchified … but most things have terribly
changed since I was young。 Three or four hard