are things I can fall back upon。 Wife！ I will trouble you for a
cup of tea。 Henrietta！ have the kindness to cut me a slice of
bread and butter。〃
Upon the whole we found ourselves very comfortable in the old…
fashioned inn； which was kept by a nice old…fashioned gentlewoman；
with the assistance of three servants； namely； a 〃boots〃 and two
strapping chambermaids； one of which was a Welsh girl； with whom I
soon scraped acquaintance； not； I assure the reader； for the sake
of the pretty Welsh eyes which she carried in her head； but for the
sake of the pretty Welsh tongue which she carried in her mouth；
from which I confess occasionally proceeded sounds which； however
pretty； I was quite unable to understand。
CHAPTER III
Chester … The Rows … Lewis Glyn Cothi … Tragedy of Mold … Native of
Antigua … Slavery and the Americans … The Tents … Saturday Night。
ON the morning after our arrival we went out together； and walked
up and down several streets； my wife and daughter； however； soon
leaving me to go into a shop； I strolled about by myself。 Chester
is an ancient town with walls and gates； a prison called a castle；
built on the site of an ancient keep； an unpretending…looking red
sandstone cathedral； two or three handsome churches； several good
streets； and certain curious places called rows。 The Chester row
is a broad arched stone gallery running parallel with the street
within the facades of the houses； it is partly open on the side of
the street； and just one story above it。 Within the rows； of which
there are three or four； are shops； every shop being on that side
which is farthest from the street。 All the best shops in Chester
are to be found in the rows。 These rows； to which you ascend by
stairs up narrow passages； were originally built for the security
of the wares of the principal merchants against the Welsh。 Should
the mountaineers break into the town； as they frequently did； they
might rifle some of the common shops； where their booty would be
slight； but those which contained the more costly articles would be
beyond their reach； for at the first alarm the doors of the
passages； up which the stairs led； would be closed； and all access
to the upper streets cut off； from the open arches of which
missiles of all kinds； kept ready for such occasions； could be
discharged upon the intruders； who would be soon glad to beat a
retreat。 These rows and the walls are certainly the most
remarkable memorials of old times which Chester has to boast of。
Upon the walls it is possible to make the whole compass of the
city； there being a good but narrow walk upon them。 The northern
wall abuts upon a frightful ravine； at the bottom of which is a
canal。 From the western one there is a noble view of the Welsh
hills。
As I stood gazing upon the hills from the wall a ragged man came up
and asked for charity。
〃Can you tell me the name of that tall hill？〃 said I； pointing in
the direction of the south…west。 〃That hill； sir；〃 said the
beggar； 〃is called Moel Vamagh； I ought to know something about it
as I was born at its foot。〃 〃Moel；〃 said I； 〃a bald hill； Vamagh；
maternal or motherly。 Moel Vamagh； the Mother Moel。〃 〃Just so；
sir；〃 said the beggar； 〃I see you are a Welshman； like myself；
though I suppose you come from the South … Moel Vamagh is the
Mother Moel； and is called so because it is the highest of all the
Moels。〃 〃Did you ever hear of a place called Mold？〃 said I。 〃Oh；
yes； your honour；〃 said the beggar； 〃many a time； and many's the
time I have been there。〃 〃In which direction does it lie？〃 said I。
〃Towards Moel Vamagh； your honour；〃 said the beggar； 〃which is a
few miles beyond it； you can't see it from here； but look towards
Moel Vamagh and you will see over it。〃 〃Thank you；〃 said I； and
gave something to the beggar； who departed； after first taking off
his hat。 Long and fixedly did I gaze in the direction of Mold。
The reason which induced me to do so was the knowledge of an
appalling tragedy transacted there in the old time； in which there
is every reason to suppose a certain Welsh bard； called Lewis Glyn
Cothi； had a share。
This man； who was a native of South Wales； flourished during the
wars of the Roses。 Besides being a poetical he was something of a
military genius； and had a command of foot in the army of the
Lancastrian Jasper Earl of Pembroke； the son of Owen Tudor； and
half…brother of Henry the Sixth。 After the battle of Mortimer's
Cross； in which the Earl's forces were defeated； the warrior bard
found his way to Chester； where he married the widow of a citizen
and opened a shop； without asking the permission of the mayor； who
with the officers of justice came and seized all his goods； which；
according to his own account； filled nine sacks； and then drove him
out of the town。 The bard in a great fury indited an awdl； in
which he invites Reinallt ap Grufydd ap Bleddyn； a kind of
predatory chieftain； who resided a little way off in Flintshire； to
come and set the town on fire； and slaughter the inhabitants； in
revenge for the wrongs he had suffered； and then proceeds to vent
all kinds of imprecations against the mayor and people of Chester；
wishing； amongst other things； that they might soon hear that the
Dee had become too shallow to bear their ships … that a certain
cutaneous disorder might attack the wrists of great and small； old
and young； laity and clergy … that grass might grow in their
streets … that Ilar and Cyveilach； Welsh saints； might slay them …
that dogs might snarl at them … and that the king of heaven； with
the saints Brynach and Non； might afflict them with blindness …
which piece； however ineffectual in inducing God and the saints to
visit the Chester people with the curses with which the furious
bard wished them to be afflicted； seems to have produced somewhat
of its intended effect on the chieftain； who shortly afterwards； on
learning that the mayor and many of the Chester people were present
at the fair of Mold； near which place he resided； set upon them at
the head of his forces； and after a desperate combat； in which many
lives were lost； took the mayor prisoner； and drove those of his
people who survived into a tower； which he set on fire and burnt；
with all the unhappy wretches which it contained； completing the
horrors of the day by hanging the unfortunate mayor。
Conversant as I was with all this strange history； is it wonderful
that I looked with great interest from the wall of Chester in the
direction of Mold？
Once did I make the compass of the city upon the walls； and was
beginning to do the same a second time； when I stumbled against a
black； who； with his arms leaning upon the wall； was spitting over
it； in the direction of the river。 I apologised； and contrived to
enter into conversation with him。 He was tolerably well dressed；
had a hairy cap on his head； was about forty years of age； and
brutishly ugly； his features scarcely resembling those of a human
being。 He told me he was a native of Antigua； a blacksmith by
trade； and had been a slave。 I asked him if he could speak any
language besides English； and received for answer that besides
English； he could speak Spanish and French。 Forthwith I spoke to
him in Spanish； but he did not understand me。 I then asked him to
speak to me in Spanish； but he could not。 〃Surely you can tell me
the word for water in Spanish；〃 said I； he； however； was not able。
〃How is it；〃 said I； 〃that； pretending to be acquainted with
Spanish； you do not even know the word for water？〃 He said he
could not tell； but supposed that he had forgotten the Spanish
language； adding however； that he could speak French perfectly。 I
spoke to him in French … he did not understand me： I told him to
speak to me in French； but he did not。 I then asked him the word
for bread in French； but he could not tell me。 I made no
observations on his ignorance； but inquired how he liked being a
slave？ He said not at all； that it was very bad to be a slave； as
a slave was forced to work。 I asked him if he did not work now
that he was free？ He said very seldom； that he did not like work；
and that it did not agree with him。 I asked how he came into
England； and he said that wishing to see England； he had come over
with a gentleman as his servant； but that as soon as he got there；
he had left his master； as he did not like work。 I asked him how
he contrived to live in England without working？ He said that any
black might live in England without working； that all he had to do
was to attend religious meetings； and speak against slavery and the
Americans。 I asked him if he had done so。 He said he had； and
that the religious people were very kind to him； and gave him
money； and that a religious lady was going to marry him。 I asked
him if he knew anything about the Americans？ He said he did； and
that they were very bad people； who kept slaves and flogged them。
〃And quite right too；〃 said I； 〃if they are lazy rascals like
yourself； who want to eat without working。 What a pretty set of
knaves or fools must they be； who encourage a fellow like you to
speak against negro slavery； of the necessity for which you
yourself are a living instance； and against a people of whom you
know as much as of French or Spanish。〃 Then leaving the black； who
made no other answer to what I said； than by spitting with
considerable force in the direction of the river； I continued
making my second compass of the city upon the wall。
Having walked round the city for the second time； I returned to the
inn。 In the evening I went out again； passed over the bridge； and
then turned to the right in the direction of the hills。 Near the
river； on my right； on a kind of green； I observed two or three
tents resembling those of gypsies。 Some ragged children were
playing near them； who； however； had nothing of the appearance of
the children of the Egyptian race； their locks being not dark； but
either of a flaxen or red hue； and their features not delicate and
regular； but coarse and uncou