and its wheel was turned by the water of a little conduit supplied
by the brook at some distance above the mill。 I had observed
similar conduits employed for similar purposes in Cornwall。 A
little below the mill was a weir； and a little below the weir the
river ran frothing past the extreme end of the elephant's snout。
Following the course of the river I at last emerged with it from
the pass into a valley surrounded by enormous mountains。 Extending
along it from west to east； and occupying its entire southern part
lay an oblong piece of water； into which the streamlet of the pass
discharged itself。 This was one of the many beautiful lakes； which
a few days before I had seen from the Wyddfa。 As for the Wyddfa I
now beheld it high above me in the north…east looking very grand
indeed； shining like a silver helmet whilst catching the glories of
the setting sun。
I proceeded slowly along the road； the lake below me on my right
hand； whilst the shelvy side of Snowdon rose above me on the left。
The evening was calm and still； and no noise came upon my ear save
the sound of a cascade falling into the lake from a black mountain；
which frowned above it on the south； and cast a gloomy shadow far
over it。
This cataract was in the neighbourhood of a singular…looking rock；
projecting above the lake from the mountain's side。 I wandered a
considerable way without meeting or seeing a single human being。
At last when I had nearly gained the eastern end of the valley I
saw two men seated on the side of the hill； on the verge of the
road； in the vicinity of a house which stood a little way up the
hill。 The lake here was much wider than I had hitherto seen it；
for the huge mountain on the south had terminated and the lake
expanded considerably in that quarter； having instead of the black
mountain a beautiful hill beyond it。
I quickened my steps and soon came up to the two individuals。 One
was an elderly man； dressed in a smock frock and with a hairy cap
on his head。 The other was much younger； wore a hat； and was
dressed in a coarse suit of blue nearly new； and doubtless his
Sunday's best。 He was smoking a pipe。 I greeted them in English
and sat down near them。 They responded in the same language； the
younger man with considerable civility and briskness； the other in
a tone of voice denoting some reserve。
〃May I ask the name of this lake？〃 said I； addressing myself to the
young man who sat between me and the elderly one。
〃Its name is Llyn Cwellyn； sir；〃 said he； taking the pipe out of
his mouth。 〃And a fine lake it is。〃
〃Plenty of fish in it？〃 I demanded。
〃Plenty； sir； plenty of trout and pike and char。〃
〃Is it deep？〃 said I。
〃Near the shore it is shallow； sir； but in the middle and near the
other side it is deep； so deep that no one knows how deep it is。〃
〃What is the name；〃 said I； 〃of the great black mountain there on
the other side？〃
〃It is called Mynydd Mawr or the Great Mountain。 Yonder rock；
which bulks out from it； down the lake yonder； and which you passed
as you came along； is called Castell Cidwm； which means Wolf's rock
or castle。〃
〃Did a wolf ever live there？〃 I demanded。
〃Perhaps so；〃 said the man； 〃for I have heard say that there were
wolves of old in Wales。〃
〃And what is the name of the beautiful hill yonder； before us
across the water？〃
〃That； sir； is called Cairn Drws y Coed；〃 said the man。
〃The stone heap of the gate of the wood；〃 said I。
〃Are you Welsh； sir？〃 said the man。
〃No；〃 said I； 〃but I know something of the language of Wales。 I
suppose you live in that house？〃
〃Not exactly； sir； my father…in…law here lives in that house； and
my wife with him。 I am a miner； and spend six days in the week at
my mine； but every Sunday I come here and pass the day with my wife
and him。〃
〃And what profession does he follow？〃 said I； 〃is he a fisherman？〃
〃Fisherman！〃 said the elderly man contemptuously； 〃not I。 I am the
Snowdon Ranger。〃
〃And what is that？〃 said I。
The elderly man tossed his head proudly； and made no reply。
〃A ranger means a guide； sir；〃 said the younger man； 〃my father…in…
law is generally termed the Snowdon Ranger because he is a tip…top
guide； and he has named the house after him the Snowdon Ranger。 He
entertains gentlemen in it who put themselves under his guidance in
order to ascend Snowdon and to see the country。〃
〃There is some difference in your professions；〃 said 〃he deals in
heights； you in depths； both； however； are break…necky trades。〃
〃I run more risk from gunpowder than anything else；〃 said the
younger man。 〃I am a slate…miner； and am continually blasting。 I
have； however； had my falls。 Are you going far to…night； sir？〃
〃I am going to Beth Gelert；〃 said I。
〃A good six miles； sir； from here。 Do you come from Caernarvon？〃
〃Farther than that；〃 said I。 〃I come from Bangor。〃
〃To…day； sir； and walking？〃
〃To…day； and walking。〃
〃You must be rather tired； sir； you came along the valley very
slowly。〃
〃I am not in the slightest degree tired；〃 said I； 〃when I start
from here； I shall put on my best pace； and soon get to Beth
Gelert。〃
〃Anybody can get along over level ground；〃 said the old man；
laconically。
〃Not with equal swiftness；〃 said I。 〃I do assure you； friend； to
be able to move at a good swinging pace over level ground is
something not to be sneezed at。 Not；〃 said I； lifting up my voice；
〃that I would for a moment compare walking on the level ground to
mountain ranging； pacing along the road to springing up crags like
a mountain goat； or assert that even Powell himself； the first of
all road walkers； was entitled to so bright a wreath of fame as the
Snowdon Ranger。〃
〃Won't you walk in； sir？〃 said the elderly man。
〃No； I thank you；〃 said I； 〃I prefer sitting out here gazing on the
lake and the noble mountains。〃
〃I wish you would； sir；〃 said the elderly man； 〃and take a glass of
something； I will charge you nothing。〃
〃Thank you；〃 said I； 〃I am in want of nothing； and shall presently
start。 Do many people ascend Snowdon from your house？〃
〃Not so many as I could wish；〃 said the ranger； 〃people in general
prefer ascending Snowdon from that trumpery place Beth Gelert； but
those who do are fools … begging your honour's pardon。 The place
to ascend Snowdon from is my house。 The way from my house up
Snowdon is wonderful for the romantic scenery which it affords；
that from Beth Gelert can't be named in the same day with it for
scenery； moreover； from my house you may have the best guide in
Wales； whereas the guides of Beth Gelert … but I say nothing。 If
your honour is bound for the Wyddfa； as I suppose you are； you had
better start from my house to…morrow under my guidance。〃
〃I have already been up the Wyddfa from Llanberis；〃 said I； 〃and am
now going through Beth Gelert to Llangollen； where my family are；
were I going up Snowdon again I should most certainly start from
your house under your guidance； and were I not in a hurry at
present； I would certainly take up my quarters here for a week； and
every day snake excursions with you into the recesses of Eryri。 I
suppose you are acquainted with all the secrets of the hills？〃
〃Trust the old ranger for that； your honour。 I would show your
honour the black lake in the frightful hollow in which the fishes
have monstrous heads and little bodies； the lake on which neither
swan； duck nor any kind of wildfowl was ever seen to light。 Then I
would show your honour the fountain of the hopping creatures；
where； where … 〃
〃Were you ever at that Wolf's crag； that Castell y Cidwm？〃 said I。
〃Can't say I ever was； your honour。 You see it lies so close by；
just across the lake； that … 〃
〃You thought you could see it any day； and so never went；〃 said I。
〃Can you tell me whether there are any ruins upon it？〃
〃I can't； your honour。〃
〃I shouldn't wonder；〃 said I； 〃if in old times it was the
stronghold of some robber…chieftain； cidwm in the old Welsh is
frequently applied to a ferocious man。 Castell Cidwm； I should
think； rather ought to be translated the robber's castle than the
wolf's rock。 If I ever come into these parts again you and I will
visit it together； and see what kind of place it is。 Now farewell！
It is getting late。〃 I then departed。
〃What a nice gentleman！〃 said the younger man； when I was a few
yards distant。
〃I never saw a nicer gentleman；〃 said the old ranger。
I sped along； Snowdon on my left； the lake on my right； and the tip
of a mountain peak right before me in the east。 After a little
time I looked back； what a scene！ The silver lake and the shadowy
mountain over its southern side looking now； methought； very much
like Gibraltar。 I lingered and lingered； gazing and gazing； and at
last only by an effort tore myself away。 The evening had now
become delightfully cool in this land of wonders。 On I sped；
passing by two noisy brooks coming from Snowdon to pay tribute to
the lake。 And now I had left the lake and the valley behind； and
was ascending a hill。 As I gained its summit； up rose the moon to
cheer my way。 In a little time； a wild stony gorge confronted me；
a stream ran down the gorge with hollow roar； a bridge lay across
it。 I asked a figure whom I saw standing by the bridge the place's
name。 〃Rhyd du〃 … the black ford … I crossed the bridge。 The
voice of the Methodist was yelling from a little chapel on my left。
I went to the door and listened： 〃When the sinner takes hold of
God； God takes hold of the sinner。〃 The voice was frightfully
hoarse。 I passed on： night fell fast around me； and the mountain
to the south…east； towards which I was tending； looked blackly
grand。 And now I came to a milestone on which I read with
difficulty： 〃Three miles to Beth Gelert。〃 The way for some time
had been upward； but now it was downward。 I reached a torrent；
which coming from the north…west rushed under a bridge； over which
I passed。 The torrent attended me on my right hand the whole way
to Beth Gelert。 The descent now became very rapid。 I passed a
pine wood o