evening； sometimes as far as the Ladders； eight of which are fastened； in a shackling manner； to the perpendicular rocks；a high and somewhat dangerous ascent to the village of Albinen； but undertaken constantly by peasants with baskets on their backs。 It is in winter the only mode Leukerbad has of communicating with the world； and in summer it is the only way of reaching Albinen； except by a long journey down the Dala and up another valley and height。 The bathers were certainly very lively and social at table…d'hote； where we had the pleasure of meeting some hundred of them； dressed。 It was presumed that the baths were the subject of the entertaining conversation； for I read in a charming little work which sets forth the delights of Leuk； that La poussee forms the staple of most of the talk。 La poussee； or； as this book poetically calls it； 〃that daughter of the waters of Loeche；〃 〃that eruption of which we have already spoken； and which proves the action of the baths upon the skin；〃becomes the object； and often the end； of all conversation。 And it gives specimens of this pleasant converse； as：
〃Comment va votre poussee？〃
〃Avez…vous la poussee？〃
〃Je suis en pleine poussee〃
〃Ma poussee s'est fort bien passee！〃
Indeed says this entertaining tract； sans poussee； one would not be able to hold； at table or in the salon； with a neighbor of either sex； the least conversation。 Further； it is by grace a la poussee that one arrives at those intimacies which are the characteristics of the baths。 Blessed； then； be La poussee； which renders possible such a high society and such select and entertaining conversation！ Long may the bathers of Leuk live to soak and converse！ In the morning； when we departed for the ascent of the Gemmi； we passed one of the bathing…houses。 I fancied that a hot steam issued out of the crevices； from within came a discord of singing and caterwauling； and； as a door swung open； I saw that the heads floating about on the turbid tide were eating breakfast from the swimming tables。
OVER THE GEMMI
I spent some time； the evening before； studying the face of the cliff we were to ascend； to discover the path； but I could only trace its zigzag beginning。 When we came to the base of the rock； we found a way cut； a narrow path； most of the distance hewn out of the rock； winding upward along the face of the precipice。 The view； as one rises； is of the break…neck description。 The way is really safe enough； even on mule…back； ascending； but one would be foolhardy to ride down。 We met a lady on the summit who was about to be carried down on a chair； and she seemed quite to like the mode of conveyance： she had harnessed her husband in temporarily for one of the bearers； which made it still more jolly for her。 When we started； a cloud of mist hung over the edge of the rocks。 As we rose； it descended to meet us； and sunk below； hiding the valley and its houses； which had looked like Swiss toys from our height。 When we reached the summit； the mist came boiling up after us； rising like a thick wall to the sky； and hiding all that great mountain range； the Vallais Alps； from which we had come； and which we hoped to see from this point。 Fortunately； there were no clouds on the other side； and we looked down into a magnificent rocky basin； encircled by broken and overtopping crags and snow…fields； at the bottom of which was a green lake。 It is one of the wildest of scenes。
An hour from the summit； we came to a green Alp； where a herd of cows were feeding； and in the midst of it were three or four dirty chalets； where pigs； chickens； cattle； and animals constructed very much like human beings； lived； yet I have nothing to say against these chalets； for we had excellent cream there。 We had； on the way down； fine views of the snowy Altels； the Rinderhorn； the Finster… Aarhorn； a deep valley which enormous precipices guard； but which avalanches nevertheless invade； and； farther on； of the Blumlisalp； with its summit of crystalline whiteness。 The descent to Kandersteg is very rapid； and in a rain slippery。 This village is a resort for artists for its splendid views of the range we had crossed： it stands at the gate of the mountains。 From there to the Lake of Thun is a delightful drive；a rich country； with handsome cottages and a charming landscape； even if the pyramidal Niesen did not lift up its seven thousand feet on the edge of the lake。 So； through a smiling land； and in the sunshine after the rain； we come to Spiez； and find ourselves at a little hotel on the slope； overlooking town and lake and mountains。
Spiez is not large： indeed； its few houses are nearly all picturesquely grouped upon a narrow rib of land which is thrust into the lake on purpose to make the loveliest picture in the world。 There is the old castle； with its many slim spires and its square… peaked roofed tower； the slender…steepled church； a fringe of old houses below on the lake； one overhanging towards the point； and the promontory； finished by a willo drooping to the water。 Beyond； in hazy light； over the lucid green of the lake； are mountains whose masses of rock seem soft and sculptured。 To the right； at the foot of the lake； tower the great snowy mountains； the cone of the Schreckhorn； the square top of the Eiger； the Jungfrau； just showing over the hills； and the Blumlisalp rising into heaven clear and silvery。
What can one do in such a spot； but swim in the lake； lie on the shore； and watch the passing steamers and the changing light on the mountains？ Down at the wharf； when the small boats put off for the steamer； one can well entertain himself。 The small boat is an enormous thing； after all； and propelled by two long； heavy sweeps； one of which is pulled； and the other pushed。 The laboring oar is； of course； pulled by a woman； while her husband stands up in the stern of the boat； and gently dips the other in a gallant fashion。 There is a boy there； whom I cannot make out；a short； square boy； with tasseled skull…cap； and a face that never changes its expression； and never has any expression to change； he may be older than these hills； he looks old enough to be his own father： and there is a girl； his counterpart； who might be； judging her age by her face； the mother of both of them。 These solemn old…young people are quite busy doing nothing about the wharf； and appear to be afflicted with an undue sense of the responsibility of life。 There is a beer…garden here； where several sober couples sit seriously drinking their beer。 There are some horrid old women； with the parchment skin and the disagreeable necks。 Alone； in a window of the castle； sits a lady at her work； who might be the countess； only； I am sorry； there is no countess； nothing but a frau； in that old feudal dwelling。 And there is a foreigner； thinking how queer it all is。 And while he sits there； the melodious bell in the church…tower rings its evening song。
BAVARIA。
AMERICAN IMPATIENCE
We left Switzerland； as we entered it； in a rain；a kind of double baptism that may have been necessary； and was certainly not too heavy a price to pay for the privileges of the wonderful country。 The wind blew freshly； and swept a shower over the deck of the little steamboat； on board of which we stepped from the shabby little pier and town of Romanshorn。 After the other Swiss lakes； Constance is tame； except at the southern end； beyond which rise the Appenzell range and the wooded peaks of the Bavarian hills。 Through the dash of rain； and under the promise of a magnificent rainbow；rainbows don't mean anything in Switzerland； and have no office as weather…prophets； except to assure you； that； as it rains to…day； so it will rain tomorrow；we skirted the lower bend of the lake；and at twilight sailed into the little harbor of Lindau； through the narrow entrance between the piers； on one of which is a small lighthouse； and on the other sits upright a gigantic stone lion；a fine enough figure of a Bavarian lion； but with a comical； wide…awake； and expectant expression of countenance； as if he might bark right out at any minute； and become a dog。 Yet in the moonlight； shortly afterward； the lion looked very grand and stately； as he sat regarding the softly plashing waves； and the high； drifting clouds； and the old Roman tower by the bridge which connects the Island of Lindau with the mainland； and thinking perhaps； if stone lions ever do think； of the time when Roman galleys sailed on Lake Constance； and when Lindau was an imperial town with a thriving trade。
On board the little steamer was an American； accompanied by two ladies； and traveling； I thought； for their gratification； who was very anxious to get on faster than he was able to do；though why any one should desire to go fast in Europe I do not know。 One easily falls into the habit of the country； to take things easily； to go when the slow German fates will； and not to worry one's self beforehand about times and connections。 But the American was in a fever of impatience； desirous； if possible； to get on that night。 I knew he was from the Land of the Free by a phrase I heard him use in the cars： he said； 〃I'll bet a dollar。〃 Yet I must flatter myself that Americans do not always thus betray themselves。 I happened； on the Isle of Wight； to hear a bland landlord 〃blow up〃 his glib… tongued son because the latter had not driven a stiffer bargain with us for the hire of a carriage round the island。
〃Didn't you know they were Americans？〃 asks the irate father。 〃I knew it at once。〃
〃No；〃 replies young hopeful： 〃they didn't say GUESS once。〃
And straightway the fawning…innkeeper returns to us； professing； with his butter…lips； the greatest admiration of all Americans； and the intensest anxiety to serve them； and all for pure good…will。 The English are even more bloodthirsty at sight of a travelere than the Swiss； and twice as obsequious。 But to return to our American。 He had all the railway timetables that he could procure； and he was busily studying them； with the design of 〃getting on。〃 I heard him say to his companions； as he ransacked his pockets； that he was a mass of hotel…bills and timetables。 He confided to me afterward； that his wife and her friend had got it into their