ns； such indignation； such sorrow； I have never seen before from so small a cause。 It cannot be thought of； it is mere ruin！ I am； in turn； as firm； and nearly as excited in seeming。 I hold up the fruit； and tender the money。
〃No； never； never！ The signor cannot be in earnest。〃
Looking round me for a moment； and assuming a theatrical manner； befitting the gestures of those about me； I fling the fruit down； and； with a sublime renunciation； stalk away。
There is instantly a buzz and a hum that rises almost to a clamor。 I have not proceeded far； when a skinny old woman runs after me； and begs me to return。 I go back； and the crowd parts to receive me。
The proprietor has a new proposition； the effect of which upon me is intently watched。 He proposes to give me five big oranges for four sous。 I receive it with utter scorn； and a laugh of derision。 I will give two sous for the original four； and not a centesimo more。 That I solemnly say； and am ready to depart。 Hesitation and renewed conference； but at last the proprietor relents； and； with the look of one who is ruined for life； and who yet is willing to sacrifice himself； he hands me the oranges。 Instantly the excitement is dead； the crowd disperses； and the street is as quiet as ever； when I walk away； bearing my hard…won treasures。
A little while after； as I sat upon the outer wall of the terrace of the Camaldoli； with my feet hanging over； these same oranges were taken from my pockets by Americans； so that I am prevented from making any moral reflections upon the honesty of the Italians。
There is an immense garden of oranges and lemons at the village of Massa； through which travelers are shown by a surly fellow； who keeps watch of his trees； and has a bulldog lurking about for the unwary。 I hate to see a bulldog in a fruit orchard。 I have eaten a good many oranges there； and been astonished at the boughs of immense lemons which bend the trees to the ground。 I took occasion to measure one of the lemons； called a citron…lemon； and found its circumference to be twenty…one inches one way by fifteen inches the other；about as big as a railway conductor's lantern。 These lemons are not so sour as the fellow who shows them： he is a mercenary dog； and his prices afford me no clew to the just value of oranges。
I like better to go to a little garden in the village of Meta； under a sunny precipice of rocks overhung by the ruined convent of Camaldoli。 I turn up a narrow lane； and push open the wooden door in the garden of a little villa。 It is a pretty garden； and； besides the orange and lemon…trees on the terrace； it has other fruit…trees； and a scent of many flowers。 My friend； the gardener； is sorting oranges from one basket to another； on a green bank； and evidently selling the fruit to some women； who are putting it into bags to carry away。
When he sees me approach； there is always the same pantomime。 I propose to take some of the fruit he is sorting。 With a knowing air； and an appearance of great mystery； he raises his left hand； the palm toward me； as one says hush。 Having dispatched his business； he takes an empty basket； and with another mysterious flourish； desiring me to remain quiet； he goes to a storehouse in one corner of the garden； and returns with a load of immense oranges； all soaked with the sun； ripe and fragrant； and more tempting than lumps of gold。 I take one； and ask him if it is sweet。 He shrugs his shoulders； raises his hands； and； with a sidewise shake of the head； and a look which says； How can you be so faithless？ makes me ashamed of my doubts。
I cut the thick skin； which easily falls apart and discloses the luscious quarters； plump； juicy； and waiting to melt in the mouth。 I look for a moment at the rich pulp in its soft incasement； and then try a delicious morsel。 I nod。 My gardener again shrugs his shoulders； with a slight smile； as much as to say； It could not be otherwise； and is evidently delighted to have me enjoy his fruit。 I fill capacious pockets with the choicest； and； if I have friends with me； they do the same。 I give our silent but most expressive entertainer half a franc； never more； and he always seems surprised at the size of the largesse。 We exhaust his basket； and he proposes to get more。
When I am alone； I stroll about under the heavily…laden trees； and pick up the largest； where they lie thickly on the ground； liking to hold them in my hand and feel the agreeable weight； even when I can carry away no more。 The gardener neither follows nor watches me； and I think perhaps knows； and is not stingy about it； that more valuable to me than the oranges I eat or take away are those on the trees among the shining leaves。 And perhaps he opines that I am from a country of snow and ice； where the year has six hostile months； and that I have not money enough to pay for the rich possession of the eye； the picture of beauty； which I take with me。
FASCINATION
There are three places where I should like to live； naming them in the inverse order of preference；the Isle of Wight； Sorrento； and Heaven。 The first two have something in common； the almost mystic union of sky and sea and shore； a soft atmospheric suffusion that works an enchantment； and puts one into a dreamy mood。 And yet there are decided contrasts。 The superabundant； soaking sunshine of Sorrento is of very different quality from that of the Isle of Wight。 On the island there is a sense of home； which one misses on this promontory； the fascination of which； no less strong； is that of a southern beauty； whose charms conquer rather than win。 I remember with what feeling I one day unexpectedly read on a white slab； in the little inclosure of Bonchurch； where the sea whispered as gently as the rustle of the ivy…leaves； the name of John Sterling。 Could there be any fitter resting…place for that most； weary； and gentle spirit？ There I seemed to know he had the rest that he could not have anywhere on these brilliant historic shores。 Yet so impressible was his sensitive nature； that I doubt not； if he had given himself up to the enchantment of these coasts in his lifetime； it would have led him by a spell he could not break。
I am sometimes in doubt what is the spell of Sorrento； and half believe that it is independent of anything visible。 There is said to be a fatal enchantment about Capri。 The influences of Sorrento are not so dangerous； but are almost as marked。 I do not wonder that the Greeks peopled every cove and sea…cave with divinities； and built temples on every headland and rocky islet here； that the Romans built upon the Grecian ruins； that the ecclesiastics in succeeding centuries gained possession of all the heights； and built convents and monasteries； and set out vineyards； and orchards of olives and oranges； and took root as the creeping plants do； spreading themselves abroad in the sunshine and charming air。 The Italian of to…day does not willingly emigrate； is tempted by no seduction of better fortune in any foreign clime。 And so in all ages the swarming populations have clung to these shores； filling all the coasts and every nook in these almost inaccessible hills with life。 Perhaps the delicious climate； which avoids all extremes； sufficiently accounts for this； and yet I have sometimes thought there is a more subtle reason why travelers from far lands are spellbound here； often against will and judgment； week after week； month after month。
However this may be； it is certain that strangers who come here； and remain long enough to get entangled in the meshes which some influence； I know not what； throws around them； are in danger of never departing。 I know there are scores of travelers； who whisk down from Naples； guidebook in hand； goaded by the fell purpose of seeing every place in Europe； ascend some height； buy a load of the beautiful inlaid woodwork； perhaps row over to Capri and stay five minutes in the azure grotto； and then whisk away again； untouched by the glamour of the place。 Enough that they write 〃delightful spot〃 in their diaries； and hurry off to new scenes； and more noisy life。 But the visitor who yields himself to the place will soon find his power of will departing。 Some satirical people say； that； as one grows strong in body here； he becomes weak in mind。 The theory I do not accept： one simply folds his sails； unships his rudder； and waits the will of Providence； or the arrival of some compelling fate。 The longer one remains； the more difficult it is to go。 We have a fashionindeed； I may call it a habitof deciding to go； and of never going。 It is a subject of infinite jest among the habitues of the villa； who meet at table； and who are always bidding each other good…by。 We often go so far as to write to Naples at night； and bespeak rooms in the hotels； but we always countermand the order before we sit down to breakfast。 The good…natured mistress of affairs； the head of the bureau of domestic relations； is at her wits' end； with guests who always promise to go and never depart。 There are here a gentleman and his wife； English people of decision enough； I presume； in Cornwall； who packed their luggage before Christmas to depart； but who have not gone towards the end of February；who daily talk of going； and little by little unpack their wardrobe； as their determination oozes out。 It is easy enough to decide at night to go next day； but in the morning； when the soft sunshine comes in at the window； and when we descend and walk in the garden； all our good intentions vanish。 It is not simply that we do not go away； but we have lost the motive for those long excursions which we made at first； and which more adventurous travelers indulge in。 There are those here who have intended for weeks to spend a day on Capri。 Perfect day for the expedition succeeds perfect day； boatload after boatload sails away from the little marina at the base of the cliff； which we follow with eves of desire； butto…morrow will do as well。 We are powerless to break the enchantment。
I confess to the fancy that there is some subtle influence working this sea…change in us； which the guidebooks； in their enumeration of the delights of the region； do not touch； and which maybe reaches back beyond the Christian era。 I ha