eat； seizes the man's nose； and jerks his head round between his knees； pulling his mouth open （there is nothing that opens the mouth quicker than a sharp upward jerk of the nose） with a rude jollity that sets the spectators in a roar。 Down he goes into the cavern； and digs away for a quarter of a minute； the man the while as immovable as a stone image； when he holds up the bloody tooth。 The patient still persists in sitting with his mouth stretched open to its widest limit； waiting for the operation to begin； and will only close the orifice when he is well shaken and shown the tooth。 The dentist gives him some yellow liquid to hold in his mouth； which the man insists on swallowing； wets a handkerchief and washes his face； roughly rubbing his nose the wrong way； and lets him go。 Every step of the process is eagerly watched by the delighted spectators。
He is succeeded by a woman； who is put through the same heroic treatment； and exhibits like fortitude。 And so they come； and the dentist after every operation waves the extracted trophy high in air； and jubilates as if he had won another victory； pointing to the stone statue yonder； and reminding them that this is the glorious day of St。 Antonino。 But this is not all that this man of science does。 He has the genuine elixir d'amour； love…philters and powders which never fail in their effects。 I see the bashful girls and the sheepish swains come slyly up to the side of the wagon； and exchange their hard…earned francs for the hopeful preparation。 O my brown beauty； with those soft eyes and cheeks of smothered fire； you have no need of that red philter！ What a simple； childlike folk！ The shrewd fellow in the wagon is one of a race as old as Thebes and as new as Porkopolis； his brazen face is older than the invention of bronze； but I think he never had to do with a more credulous crowd than this。 The very cunning in the face of the peasants is that of the fox； it is a sort of instinct； and not an intelligent suspicion。
This is Sunday in Sorrento； under the blue sky。 These peasants； who are fooled by the mountebank and attracted by the piles of adamantine gingerbread； do not forget to crowd the church of the saint at vespers； and kneel there in humble faith； while the choir sings the Agnus Dei； and the priests drone the service。 Are they so different； then； from other people？ They have an idea on Capri that England is such another island； only not so pleasant； that all Englishmen are rich and constantly travel to escape the dreariness at home； and that； if they are not absolutely mad； they are all a little queer。 It was a fancy prevalent in Hamlet's day。 We had the English service in the Villa Nardi in the evening。 There are some Englishmen staying here； of the class one finds in all the sunny spots of Europe； ennuye and growling； in search of some elixir that shall bring back youth and enjoyment。 They seem divided in mind between the attractions of the equable climate of this region and the fear of the gout which lurks in the unfermented wine。 One cannot be too grateful to the sturdy islanders for carrying their prayers； like their drumbeat； all round the globe； and I was much edified that night； as the reading went on； by a row of rather battered men of the world； who stood in line on one side of the room； and took their prayers with a certain British fortitude； as if they were conscious of performing a constitutional duty； and helping by the act to uphold the majesty of English institutions。
PUNTA DELLA CAMPANELLA
There is always a mild excitement about mounting donkeys in the morning here for an excursion among the hills。 The warm sun pouring into the garden； the smell of oranges； the stimulating air； the general openness and freshness； promise a day of enjoyment。 There is always a doubt as to who will go； generally a donkey wanting； somebody wishes to join the party at the last moment； there is no end of running up and downstairs； calling from balconies and terraces； some never ready； and some waiting below in the sun； the whole house in a tumult； drivers in a worry； and the sleepy animals now and then joining in the clatter with a vocal performance that is neither a trumpet…call nor a steam…whistle； but an indescribable noise； that begins in agony and abruptly breaks down in despair。 It is difficult to get the train in motion。 The lady who ordered Succarina has got a strange donkey； and Macaroni has on the wrong saddle。 Succarina is a favorite； the kindest； easiest； and surest…footed of beasts；a diminutive animal； not bigger than a Friesland sheep； old； in fact grizzly with years； and not unlike the aged； wizened little women who are so common here： for beauty in this region dries up； and these handsome Sorrento girls； if they live； and almost everybody does live； have the prospect； in their old age； of becoming mummies； with parchment skins。 I have heard of climates that preserve female beauty； this embalms it； only the beauty escapes in the process。 As I was saying； Succarina is little； old； and grizzly； but her head is large； and one might be contented to be as wise as she looks。
The party is at length mounted； and clatters away through the narrow streets。 Donkey…riding is very good for people who think they cannot walk。 It looks very much like riding； to a spectator； and it deceives the person undertaking it into an amount of exercise equal to walking。 I have a great admiration for the donkey character。 There never was such patience under wrong treatment； such return of devotion for injury。 Their obstinacy； which is so much talked about； is only an exercise of the right of private judgment； and an intelligent exercise of it； no doubt； if we could take the donkey point of view； as so many of us are accused of doing in other things。 I am certain of one thing： in any large excursion party there will be more obstinate people than obstinate donkeys； and yet the poor brutes get all the thwacks and thumps。 We are bound to…day for the Punta della Campanella； the extreme point of the promontory； and ten miles away。 The path lies up the steps from the new Massa carriage…road； now on the backbone of the ridge； and now in the recesses of the broken country。 What an animated picture is the donkeycade； as it mounts the steeps； winding along the zigzags！ Hear the little bridlebells jingling； the drivers groaning their 〃 a…e…ugh； a…e…ugh；〃 the riders making a merry din of laughter； and firing off a fusillade of ejaculations of delight and wonder。
The road is between high walls； round the sweep of curved terraces which rise above and below us； bearing the glistening olive； through glens and gullies； over and under arches； vine…grown；how little we make use of the arch at home！round sunny dells where orange orchards gleam； past shrines； little chapels perched on rocks； rude villas commanding most extensive sweeps of sea and shore。 The almond trees are in full bloom； every twig a thickly…set spike of the pink and white blossoms； daisies and dandelions are out； the purple crocuses sprinkle the ground； the petals exquisitely varied on the reverse side； and the stamens of bright salmon color； the large double anemones have come forth； certain that it is spring； on the higher crags by the wayside the Mediterranean heather has shaken out its delicate flowers； which fill the air with a mild fragrance； while blue violets； sweet of scent like the English； make our path a perfumed one。 And this is winter。
We have made a late start； owing to the fact that everybody is captain of the expedition； and to the Sorrento infirmity that no one is able to make up his mind about anything。 It is one o'clock when we reach a high transverse ridge； and find the headlands of the peninsula rising before us； grim hills of limestone； one of them with the ruins of a convent on top； and no road apparent thither； and Capri ahead of us in the sea； the only bit of land that catches any light； for as we have journeyed the sky has thickened； the clouds of the sirocco have come up from the south； there has been first a mist； and then a fine rain； the ruins on the peak of Santa Costanza are now hid in mist。 We halt for consultation。 Shall we go on and brave a wetting； or ignominiously retreat？ There are many opinions； but few decided ones。 The drivers declare that it will be a bad time。 One gentleman； with an air of decision； suggests that it is best to go on； or go back； if we do not stand here and wait。 The deaf lady； from near Dublin； being appealed to； says that； perhaps； if it is more prudent； we had better go back if it is going to rain。 It does rain。 Waterproofs are put on； umbrellas spread； backs turned to the wind； and we look like a group of explorers under adverse circumstances； 〃silent on a peak in Darien；〃 the donkeys especially downcast and dejected。 Finally； as is usual in life； a； compromise prevails。 We decide to continue for half an hour longer and see what the weather is。 No sooner have we set forward over the brow of a hill than it grows lighter on the sea horizon in the southwest； the ruins on the peak become visible； Capri is in full sunlight。 The clouds lift more and more； and still hanging overhead； but with no more rain； are like curtains gradually drawn up； opening to us a glorious vista of sunshine and promise； an illumined； sparkling； illimitable sea； and a bright foreground of slopes and picturesque rocks。 Before the half hour is up； there is not one of the party who does not claim to have been the person who insisted upon going forward。
We halt for a moment to look at Capri； that enormous； irregular rock； raising its huge back out of the sea） its back broken in the middle； with the little village for a saddle。 On the farther summit； above Anacapri； a precipice of two thousand feet sheer down to the water on the other side； hangs a light cloud。 The east elevation； whence the playful Tiberius used to amuse his green old age by casting his prisoners eight hundred feet down into the sea； has the strong sunlight on it； and below； the row of tooth…like rocks； which are the extreme eastern point； shine in a warm glow。 We descend through a village； twisting about in its crooked streets。 The inhabitants； who do not see strangers every day； make fr