this condition； screamed aloud； 'Lord have mercy upon us； he has
seen something！' Mrs Tabitha was alarmed； and the whole house in
confusion。 When he was recruited with a dram； I desired him to
explain the meaning of all this agitation； and； with some
reluctance； he owned he had seen a spirit； in the shape of an old
man with a white beard； a black cap； and a plaid night…gown。 He
was undeceived by the admiral in person； who； coming in at this
juncture； appeared to be a creature of real flesh and blood。
Do you know how we fare in this Scottish paradise？ We make free
with our landlord's mutton； which is excellent； his poultry…yard；
his garden； his dairy； and his cellar； which are all well stored。
We have delicious salmon； pike； trout； perch； par； &c。 at the
door； for the taking。 The Frith of Clyde； on the other side of
the hill； supplies us with mullet； red and grey； cod； mackarel；
whiting； and a variety of sea…fish； including the finest fresh
herrings I ever tasted。 We have sweet； juicy beef； and tolerable
veal； with delicate bread
from the little town of Dunbritton； and plenty of partridge；
growse； heath cock； and other game in presents。
We have been visited by all the gentlemen in the neighbourhood；
and they have entertained us at their houses； not barely with
hospitality； but with such marks of cordial affection； as one
would wish to find among near relations； after an absence of many
years。
I told you； in my last； I had projected an excursion to the
Highlands； which project I have now happily executed； under the
auspices of Sir George Colquhoun； a colonel in the Dutch service；
who offered himself as our conductor on this occasion。 Leaving
our women at Cameron； to the care and inspection of Lady H C；
we set out on horseback for Inverary； the county town of Argyle；
and dined on the road with the Laird of Macfarlane； the greatest
genealogist I ever knew in any country； and perfectly acquainted
with all the antiquities of Scotland。
The Duke of Argyle has an old castle in Inverary； where he
resides when he is in Scotland； and hard by is the shell of a
noble Gothic palace； built by the last duke； which； when
finished； will be a great ornament to this part of the Highlands。
As for Inverary； it is a place of very little importance。
This country is amazingly wild； especially towards the mountains；
which are heaped upon the backs of one another； making a most
stupendous appearance of savage nature； with hardly any signs of
cultivation； or even of population。 All is sublimity； silence；
and solitude。 The people live together in glens or bottoms； where
they are sheltered from the cold and storms of winter： but there
is a margin of plain ground spread along the sea side； which is
well inhabited and improved by the arts of husbandry； and this I
take to be one of the most agreeable tracts of the whole island；
the sea not only keeps it warm； and supplies it with fish； but
affords one of the most ravishing prospects in the whole world； I
mean the appearance of the Hebrides； or Western Islands to the
number of three hundred； scattered as far as the eye can reach；
in the most agreeable confusion。 As the soil and climate of the
Highlands are but ill adapted to the cultivation of corn； the
people apply themselves chiefly to the breeding and feeding of
black cattle； which turn to good account。 Those animals run wild
all the winter； without any shelter or subsistence； but what they
can find among the heath。 When the snow lies so deep and hard；
that they cannot penetrate to the roots of the grass； they make a
diurnal progress； guided by a sure instinct； to the seaside at
low water； where they feed on the alga marina； and other plants
that grow upon the beach。
Perhaps this branch of husbandry； which required very little
attendance and labour； is one of the principal causes of that
idleness and want of industry； which distinguishes these
mountaineers in their own country。 When they come forth into the
world； they become as diligent and alert as any people upon
earth。 They are undoubtedly a very distinct species from their
fellow subjects of the Lowlands； against whom they indulge an
ancient spirit of animosity； and this difference is very
discernible even among persons of family and education。 The
Lowlanders are generally cool and circumspect； the Highlanders
fiery and ferocious：' but this violence of their passions serves
only to inflame the zeal of their devotion to strangers； which is
truly enthusiastic。
We proceeded about twenty miles beyond Inverary； to the house of
a gentleman； a friend of our conductor； where we stayed a few
days； and were feasted in such a manner； that I began to dread
the consequence to my constitution。
Notwithstanding the solitude that prevails among these mountains；
there is no want of people in the Highlands。 I am credibly
informed that the duke of Argyle can assemble five thousand men
in arms； of his own clan and surname； which is Campbell； and
there is besides a tribe of the same appellation； whose chief' is
the Earl of Breadalbine。 The Macdonalds are as numerous； and
remarkably warlike： the Camerons； M'Leods； Frasers； Grants；
M'Kenzies； M'Kays； M'Phersons； M'Intoshes； are powerful clans； so
that if all the Highlanders； including the inhabitants of the
Isles； were united； they could bring into the field an army of
forty thousand fighting men； capable of undertaking the most
dangerous enterprize。 We have lived to see four thousand of them；
without discipline； throw the whole kingdom of Great Britain into
confusion。 They attacked and defeated two armies of regular
troops accustomed to service。 They penetrated into the centre of
England； and afterwards marched back with deliberation； in the
face of two other armies； through an enemy's country； where every
precaution was taken to cut off their retreat。 I know not any
other people in Europe； who； without the use or knowledge of
arms； will attack regular forces sword in hand； if their chief
will head them in battle。 When disciplined； they cannot fail of
being excellent soldiers。 They do not walk like the generality of
mankind； but trot and bounce like deer； as if they moved upon
springs。 They greatly excel the Lowlanders in all the exercises
that require agility； they are incredibly abstemious； and patient
of hunger and fatigue； so steeled against the weather； that in
travelling； even when the ground is covered with snow； they never
look for a house； or any other shelter but their plaid； in which
they wrap themselves up； and go to sleep under the cope of
heaven。 Such people； in quality of soldiers； must be invincible；
when the business is to perform quick marches in a difficult
country； to strike sudden strokes； beat up the enemy's quarters；
harrass their cavalry； and perform expeditions without the
formality of magazines； baggage； forage； and artillery。 The
chieftainship of the Highlanders is a very dangerous influence
operating at the extremity of the island； where the eyes and
hands of government cannot be supposed to see ＇and＇ act with
precision and vigour。 In order to break the force of clanship；
administration has always practised the political maxim； Divide
et impera。 The legislature hath not only disarmed these
mountaineers； but also deprived them of their antient garb； which
contributed in a great measure to keep up their military spirit；
and their slavish tenures are all dissolved by act of parliament；
so that they are at present as free and independent of their
chiefs； as the law can make them： but the original attachment
still remains； and is founded on something prior to the feudal
system； about which the writers of this age have made such a
pother； as if it was a new discovery； like the Copernican system。
Every peculiarity of policy； custom； and even temperament； is
affectedly traced to this origin； as if the feudal constitution
had not been common to almost all the natives of Europe。 For my
part； I expect to see the use of trunk…hose and buttered ale
ascribed to the influence of the feudal system。 The connection
between the clans and their chiefs is； without all doubt；
patriarchal。 It is founded on hereditary regard and affection；
cherished through a long succession of ages。 The clan consider
the chief as their father； they bear his name； they believe
themselves descended from his family； and they obey him as their
lord； with all the ardour of filial love and veneration； while
he； on his part； exerts a paternal authority； commanding；
chastising； rewarding； protecting； and maintaining them as his
own children。 If the legislature would entirely destroy this
connection； it must compel the Highlanders to change their
habitation and their names。 Even this experiment has been
formerly tried without success In the reign of James VI a battle
was fought within a few short miles of this place； between two
clans； the M'Gregors and the Colquhouns； in which the latter were
defeated： the Laird of M'Gregor made such a barbarous use of his
victory； that he was forfeited and outlawed by act of parliament：
his lands were given to the family of Montrose； and his clan were
obliged to change their name。 They obeyed so far； as to call
themselves severally Campbell； Graham； or Drummond； the surnames
of the families of Argyle； Montrose； and Perth； that they might
enjoy the protection of those houses； but they still added
M'Gregor to their new appellation； and as their chief was
deprived of his estate； they robbed and plundered for his
subsistence。 Mr Cameron of Lochiel； the chief of that clan；
whose father was attainted for having been concerned in the last
rebellion； returning from France in obedience to a proclamation
and act of parliament； passed at the beginning of the late war；
payed a visit to his own country； and hired a farm in the
neighbourhood of his father's house； which had been burnt to the
ground。 The clan； though ruined and scattered； no sooner heard of
his arrival than they flocked to him from all quarters； to
welcome his return； and in a few days stocked his farm with seven
hundred black cattle； which they had saved in the general wreck
of their affairs： but their beloved chief； who was a promising
youth；