aniards。〃
The Delaware River； the Makeriskitton of the savage； upon whose noble waters my paper canoe was now to carry me southward； has its sources in the western declivity of the Catskill Mountains； in the state of New York。 It is fed by two tributary streams； the Oquago （or Coquago） and the Popacton； which unite their waters at the boundary line of Pennsylvania； at the northeast end of the state； from which it flows southward seventy miles； separating the Empire and Keystone states。 When near Port Jervis； which town is connected with Rondout on the Hudson River； by the Hudson and Delaware Canal； the Delaware turns sharply to the southwest； and becomes the boundary line between the states of New Jersey and Pennsylvania。 Below Easton the river again takes a Southeasterly course； and flowing past Trenton； Bristol； Bordentown； Burlington； Philadelphia； Camden； Newcastle； and Delaware City； empties its waters into Delaware Bay about forty miles below Philadelphia。
This river has about the same length as the Hudson three hundred miles。 The tide reaches one hundred and thirty…two miles from the sea at Cape May and Cape Henlopen。 Philadelphia is the head of navigation for vessels of the heaviest tonnage； Trenton for light…draught steamboats。 At Bordentown the river is less than half a mile wide； at Philadelphia it is three…fourths of a mile in width； while at Delaware City it widens to two miles and a half。 Delaware Bay is twenty…six miles across in the widest part； which is some miles within the entrance of the Capes。
October 31st was cool and gusty。 The river route to Philadelphia is twenty…nine statute miles。 The passage was made against a strong head…wind； with swashy waves； which made me again regret that I did not have my canoe…decking made at Troy； instead of at Philadelphia。 The highly cultivated farms and beautiful country…seats along both the Pennsylvania and New Jersey sides of the river spoke highly of the rich character of the soil and the thrift of the inhabitants。 These river counties of two states may be called a land of plenty； blessed with bountiful harvests。
Quaker industry and wise economy in managing the agricultural affairs of this section in the early epochs of our country's settlement have borne good fruit。 All praise to the memory of William Penn of Pennsylvania and his worthy descendants。 The old towns of Bristol on the right； and Burlington on the left bank； embowered in vernal shades； have a most comfortable and home…like appearance。
At five o'clock P。 M。 I arrived at the city pier opposite the warehouse of Messrs。 C。 P。 Knight & Brother； No。 114 South Delaware Avenue； where； after a struggle with wind and wave for eight hours； the canoe was landed and deposited with the above firm； the gentlemen of which kindly offered to care for it while I tarried in the 〃City of Brotherly Love。〃
Among the many interesting spots hallowed by memories of the past in which Philadelphia abounds； and which are rarely sought out by visitors； two especially claim the attention of the naturalist。 One is the old home of William Bartram； on the banks of the Schuylkill at Grey's Ferry； the other； the grave of Alexander Wilson； friends and co…laborers in nature's extended field； the first a botanist； the second the father of American ornithology。
William Bartram； son of the John Bartram who was the founder of the Botanic Garden on the west bank of the Schuylkill； was born at that interesting spot in 1739。 All botanists are familiar with the results of his patient labors and his pioneer travels in those early days； through the wilderness of what now constitutes the southeastern states。 One who visited him at his home says： 〃Arrived at the botanist's garden； we approached an old man who； with a rake in his hand； was breaking the clods of earth in a tulip…bed。 His hat was old； and flapped over his Etee； his coarse shirt was seen near his neck； as he wore no cravat nor kerchief； his waistcoat and breeches were both of leather； and his shoes were tied with leather strings。 We approached and accosted him。 He ceased his work； and entered into conversation with the ease and politeness of nature's nobleman。 His countenance was expressive of benignity and happiness。 This was the botanist； traveller and philosopher we had come to see。〃
William Bartram gave important assistance and encouragement to the friendless Scotch pedagogue； Alexander Wilson； while the latter was preparing his American Ornithology for the press。 This industrious and peaceable botanist died within the walls of his dearly…loved home a few minutes after he had penned a description of a plant。 He died in 1823； in the eighty…fifth year of his age。 The old house of John and William Bartram remains nearly the same as when the last Bartram died； but the grounds have been occupied and improved by the present proprietor； whose fine mansion is near the old residence of the two botanists。
Without ample funds to enable him to carry out his bold design； Alexander Wilson labored and suffered in body and mind for several years； until his patient and persistent efforts achieved the success they so richly merited。 All but the last volume of his American Ornithology were completed when the overworked naturalist died。
The old Swedes' Church is the most ancient religious edifice in Philadelphia； and is located near the wharves in the vicinity of Christian and Swanson streets； in the old district of Southwark。 The Swedes had settlements on the Delaware before Penn visited America。 They built a wooden edifice for worship in 1677； on the spot where the brick 〃Swedes' Church〃 now stands； and which was erected in 1700。 Threading narrow streets； with the stenographic reporter of the courts； Mr。 R。 A。 West； for my guide； we came into a quiet locality where the ancient landmark reared its steeple； like the finger of faith pointing heavenward。 Few indeed must be the fashionable Christians who worship under its unpretentious roof； but there is an air of antiquity surrounding it which interests every visitor who enters its venerable doorway。
The church…yard is very contracted in area yet there is room for trees to grow within its sacred precincts； and birds sometimes rest there while pursuing their flight from the Schuylkill to the Delaware。 Among the crowded graves is a square brick structure； covered with an horizontal slab of white marble； upon which I read：
〃THIS MONUMENT COVER5 THE REMAINS OF
ALEXANDER WILSON；
AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN ORNITHOLOGY。
HE WAS BORN IN RENFREWSHIRE； SCOTLAND； ON THE 6 JULY； 1766；
EMIGRATED TO THE UNITED STATES IN THE YEAR 1794；
AND DIED IN PHILADELPHIA； OF THE DYSENTERY；
ON THE 23 AUGUST； 1813； AGED 47。
Ingenio stat sine morte decus。〃
Philadelphia has been called the； 〃city of homes；〃 and well does she merit that comfortably sounding title； for it is not a misnomer。 Unlike some other large American cities； the artisan and laborer can here own a home by becoming a member of a building association and paying the moderate periodical dues。 Miles upon miles of these cosy little houses； of five or six rooms each； may be found； the inmates of which are a good and useful class of citizens； adding strength to the city's discipline and government。
The grand park of three thousand acres； one of； if not the largest in the world； is near at hand； where the poor as well as the rich can resort at pleasure。 I took leave of the beautiful and well laid…out city with a pang of regret not usual with canoeists； who find it best for their comfort and peace of mind to keep with their dainty crafts away from the heterogeneous and not over…civil population which gathers along the water…fronts of a port。
CHAPTER VII。 PHILADELPHIA TO CAPE HENLOPEN。
DESCENT OF DELAWARE RIVER。 MY FIRST CAMP。 BOMBAY HOOK。 MURDERKILL CREEK。 A STORM IN DELAWARE BAY。 CAPSIZING OF THE CANOE。 A SWIM FOR LIFE。 THE PERSIMMON GROVE。 WILLOW GROVE INN。 THE LIGHTS OF CAPES MAY AND HENLOPEN。
Monday； November 9； was a cold； wet day。 Mr。 Knight and the old； enthusiastic gunsmith…naturalist of the city； Mr。 John Krider； assisted me to embark in my now decked； provisioned； and loaded canoe。 The stock of condensed food would easily last me a month； while the blankets and other parts of the outfit were good for the hard usage of four or five months。 My friends shouted adieu as the little craft shot out from the pier and rapidly descended the river with the strong ebb…tide which for two hours was in her favor。 The anchorage of the iron Monitor fleet at League Island was soon passed； and the great city sank into the gloom of its smoke and the clouds of rainy mist which enveloped it。
This pull was an exceedingly dreary one。 The storms of winter were at hand； and even along the watercourses between Philadelphia and Norfolk； Virginia； thin ice would soon be forming in the shallow coves and creeks。 It would be necessary to exert all my energies to get south of Hatteras； which is located on the North Carolina coast in a region of storms and local disturbances。 The canoe； though heavily laden； behaved well。 I now enjoyed the advantages resulting from the possession of the new canvas deck…cover； which； being fastened by buttons along each gunwale of the canoe； securely covered the boat； so that the occasional swash sent aboard by wicked tug…boats and large schooners did not annoy me or wet my precious cargo。
By two o'clock P。 M。 the rain and wind caused me to seek shelter at Mr。 J。 C。 Beach's cottage； at Markus Hook； some twenty miles below Philadelphia； and on the same side of the river。 While Mr。 Beach was varnishing the little craft； crowds of people came to feel of the canoe； giving it the usual punching with their finger…nails； 〃to see if it were truly paper。〃 A young Methodist minister with his pretty wife came also to satisfy their curiosity on the paper question； but the dominie offered me not a word of encouragement in my undertaking。 He shook his head and whispered to his wife： 〃A wild； wild enterprise