author of a European Canoe Manual came to my mind： 〃When you capsize； first right the canoe and get astride it over one end； keeping your legs in the water； when you have crawled to the well or cockpit； bale out the boat with your hat。〃 Comforting as these instructions from an experienced canoe traveller seemed when reading them in my hermitage ashore； the present application of them （so important a principle in Captain Jack Bunsby's log of life） was in this emergency an impossibility； for my hat had disappeared with the seat…cushion and one iron outrigger； while the oars were floating to leeward with the canoe。
The boat having turned keel up； her great sheer would have righted her had it not been for the cargo； which settled itself on the canvas deck…cloth； and ballasted the craft in that position。 So smooth were her polished sides that it was impossible to hold on to her； for she rolled about like a slippery porpoise in a tideway。 having tested and proved futile the kind suggestions of writers on marine disasters； and feeling very stiff in the icy water； I struck out in an almost exhausted condition for the shore。 Now a new experience taught me an interesting lesson。 The seas rolled over my head and shoulders in such rapid succession； that I found I could not get my head above water to breathe； while the sharp sand kept in suspension by the agitated water scratched my face； and filled my eyes； nostrils； and ears。 While I felt this pressing down and burying tendency of the seas； as they broke upon my head and shoulders； I understood the reason why so many good swimmers are drowned in attempting to reach the shore from a wreck on a shoal； when the wind； though blowing heavily； is in the victim's favor。 The land was not over an eighth of a mile away； and from it came the sullen roar of the breakers； pounding their heavy weight upon the sandy shingle。 As its booming thunders or its angry； swashing sound increased； I knew I was rapidly nearing it； but； blinded by the boiling waters； I could see nothing。
At such a moment do not stop to make vows as to how you will treat your neighbor in future if once safely landed； but strike out； fight as you never fought before； swallowing as little water as possible； and never relaxing an energy or yielding a hope。 The water shoaled； my feet felt the bottom； and I stood up； but a roller laid me flat on my face。 Up again and down again； swimming and crawling； I emerged from the sea； bearing； I fear； a closer resemblance to Jonah
（being at last pitched on shore） than to Cabnel's Venus； who was borne gracefully upon the rosy crests of the sky…reflecting waves to the soft bed of sparkling foam awaiting her。
Wearily dragging myself up the hard shingle； I stood and contemplated the little streams of water pouring from my woollen clothes。 A new danger awaited me as the cold wind whistled down the barren beach and across the desolate marshes。 I danced about to keep warm； and for a moment thought that my canoe voyage had come to an unfortunate termination。 Then a buoyant feeling succeeded the moment's depression； and I felt that this was only the first of many trials which were necessary to prepare me for the successful completion of my undertaking。 But where was the canoe； with its provisions that were to sustain me； and the charts which were to point out my way through the labyrinth of waters she was yet to traverse？ She had drifted near the shore； but would not land。 There was no time to consider the propriety of again entering the water。 The struggle was a short though severe one； and I dragged my boat ashore。
Everything was wet excepting what was most needed； a flannel suit； carefully rolled in a water…proof cloth。 I knew that I must change my wet clothes for dry ones； or perish。 This was no easy task to perform； with hands benumbed and limbs paralyzed with the cold。 O shade of Benjamin Franklin； did not one of thy kinsmen； in his wide experience as a traveller； foresee this very disaster； and did he not； when I left the 〃City of Brotherly Love；〃 force upon me an antidote； a sort of spiritual fire； which my New England temperance principles made me refuse to accept？ 〃It is old； very old；〃 he whispered； as he slipped the flask into my coat… pocket； 〃and it may save your life。 Don't be foolish。 I have kept it well bottled。 It is a pure article； and cost sixteen dollars per gallon。 I use it only for medicine。〃 I found the flask； the water had not injured it。 A small quantity was taken； when a most favorable change came over my entire system； mental as well as physical； and I was able to throw off one suit and put on another in the icy wind； that might； without the stimulant； have ended my voyage of life。
I had doctored myself homoeopathically under the old practice。 Filled with feelings of gratitude to the Great Giver of good； I reflected； as I carried my wet cargo into the marsh； upon the wonderful effects of my friend's medicine when taken only as medicine。 Standing upon the cold beach and gazing into the sea； now lashed by the wild frenzy of the wind； I determined never again to do so mean a thing as to say a word against good brandy。
Having relieved my conscience by this just resolve； I transported the whole of my wet but still precious cargo to a persimmon grove； on a spot of firm land that rose out of the marsh； where I made a convenient wind…break by stretching rubber blankets between trees。 On this knoll I built a fire； obtaining the matches to kindle it from a water…proof safe presented to me by Mr。 Epes Sargent； of Boston； some years before； when I was ascending the St。 Johns River； Florida。
Before dusk； all things not spoiled by the water were dried and secreted in the tall sedge of the marshes。 The elevation which had given me friendly shelter is known as 〃Hog Island。〃 The few persimmon…trees that grew upon it furnished an ample lunch； for the frosts had mellowed the plum…like fruit； making it sweet and edible。 The persimmon （Diospyrus Virginiana） is a small tree usually found in the middle and southern states。 Coons and other animals feast upon its fruit。 The deepening gloom warned me to seek comfortable quarters for the night。
Two miles up the strand was an old gunners' inn； to which I bent my steps along Slaughter Beach； praying that one more day's effort would take me out of this bleak region of ominous names。 A pleasant old gentleman； Mr。 Charles Todd； kept the tavern； known as Willow Grove Hotel； more for amusement than for profit。 I said nothing to him about the peculiar manner in which I had landed on Slaughter Beach； but to his inquiry as to where my boat was； and what kind of a boat it was to live in such a blow； I replied that I found it too wet and cold on the bay to remain there； and too rough to proceed to Cape Henlopen； and there being no alternative； I was obliged to land much against my inclination； and in doing so was drenched to the skin； but had managed to get dry before a fire in the marshes。 So the kind old man piled small logs in the great kitchen fireplace； and told me tale upon tale of his life as a schoolmaster out west； of the death of his wife there； and of his desire to return； after long years of absence； to his native Delaware； where he could be comfortable； and have all the clams； oysters； fish； and bay truck generally that a man could wish for。
〃Now；〃 he added； 〃I shall spend my last days here in peace。〃 He furnished an excellent supper of weak…fish or sea trout （Otolithus regalio）； fried oysters； sweet potatoes； &c。
This locality offers a place of retirement for men of small means and limited ambition。 The broad bay is a good sailing and fishing ground； while the great marshes are the resort of many birds。 The light； warm soil responds generously to little cultivation。 After a day of hunting and fishing； the new…comer can smoke his pipe in peace； to the music of crackling flames in the wide old fireplace。 Here he may be comfortable； and spend his last days quietly vegetating； with no criticisms on his deterioration； knowing that he is running to seed no faster than his neighbors。
The wind had gone to rest with the sun； and the sharp frost that followed left its congealed breath upon the shallow pools of water nearly half an inch in thickness by morning。 From my bed I could see through the window the bright flashes from Cape May and Cape Henlopen lights。 Had not misfortune beset me； a four…hours' pull would have landed me at Lewes。 There was much to be thankful for； however。 Through a merciful Providence it was my privilege to enjoy a soft bed at the Willow Grove Inn； and not a cold one on the sands of Slaughter Beach。 So ended my last day on Delaware Bay。
CHAPTER VIII。 FROM CAPE HENLOPEN TO NORFOLK； VIRGINIA
THE PORTAGE TO LOVE CREEK。 THE DELAWARE WHIPPINGPOST。 REHOBOTH AND INDIAN RIVER BAYS。 A PORTAGE TO LITTLE ASSAWAMAN BAY。 ISLE OF WIGHT BAY。 WINCHESTER PLANTATION。 CHINCOTEAGUE。 WATCHAPREAGUE INLET。 COBB'S ISLAND。 CHERRYSTONE。 ARRIVAL AT NORFOLK。 THE 〃LANDMARK'S〃 ENTERPRISE。
My first thought the next morning was of the lost outrigger； and how I should replace it。 My host soon solved the problem for me。 I was to drive to the scene of the late disaster in his light； covered wagon； load it with the canoe and cargo； and take the shortest route to Love Creek； six miles from Lewes； stopping on the way at a blacksmith's for a new outrigger。 We drove over sandy roads； through forests of pine and oak； to the village of Milton； where a curious crowd gathered round us and facetiously asked if we had 〃brought the canoe all the way from Troy in that 'ere wagon。〃 The village smith； without removing the paper boat from her snug quarters； made a fair outrigger in an hour's time； when we continued our monotonous ride through the dreary woods to a clearing upon the banks of a cedar swamp； where in a cottage lived Mr。 George Webb； to whom Bob Hazzle； my driver； presented me。 Having now reached Love Creek； I deposited my canoe with Mr。 Webb； and started off for Lewes to view the town and the ocean。
Across the entrance of Delaware Bay； from Cape Henlopen Light to Cape May Light on the southern end of New Jersey； is a distance of twelve statute miles。 S