ts。〃 He wound up by lecturing Hall for being so temperate； his diligent search in all directions for bottles or jugs being rewarded by finding them filled with unsatisfactory emptiness。
He then tumbled into the centre of the bed； crowding me close against the wall。 Poor Hall； having the outside left to him； spent the night in exercising his brain and muscles in vain attempts to keep in his bed； for when his Majesty of the law put his arms akimbo； the traveller went to the wall； and the host to the floor。 Thus passed my first night in the great swamps of the Waccamaw River。
The negro cook gave us an early breakfast of bacon； sweet potatoes； and corn bread。 The squire again looked round for the bottle； and again found nothing but emptiness。 He helped me to carry my canoe along the unsteady footing of the dark swamp to the lower side of the raft of logs； and warmly pressed my hand as he whispered： 〃My dear B____； I shall think of you until you get past those dreadful 'wretches。' Keep an eye on your little boat； or they'll devil you。〃
Propelled by my double paddle； the canoe seemed to fly through the great forest that rose with its tall trunks and weird； moss…draped arms； out of the water。 The owls were still hooting。 Indeed； the dolorous voice of this bird of darkness sounded through the heavy woods at intervals throughout the day。 I seemed to have left the real world behind me； and to have entered upon a landless region of sky； trees； and water。
〃Beware of the cut…offs；〃 said Hall； before I left。 Only the Crackers and shingle…makers know them。 If followed； they would save you many a mile； but every opening through the swamp is not a cut…off。 Keep to the main stream； though it be more crooked and longer。 If you take to the cut…offs； you may get into passages that will lead you off into the swamps and into interior bayous； from which you will never emerge。 Men have starved to death in such places。〃
So I followed the winding stream； which turned back upon itself； running north and south； and east and west； as if trying to box the compass by following the sun in its revolution。 After paddling down one bend； I could toss a stick through the trees into the stream where the canoe had cleaved its waters a quarter of a mile behind me。
The thought of what I should do in this landless region if my frail shell； in its rapid flight to the sea； happened to be pierced by a snag； was； to say the least； not a comforting one。 On what could I stand to repair it？ To climb a tree seemed； in such a case； the only resource； and then what anxious waiting there would be for some cypress…shingle maker； in his dug…out canoe； to come to the rescue； and take the traveller from his dangerous lodgings between heaven and earth； or it might be that no one would pass that way； and the weary waiting would be even unto death。
But sounds now reached my ears that made me feel that I was not quite alone in this desolate swamp。 The gray squirrels scolded among the tree…tops； robins； the brown thrush； and a large black woodpecker with his bright red head； each reminded me of Him without whose notice not a sparrow falleth to the ground。
Ten miles of this black current were passed over； when the first signs of civilization appeared； in the shape of a sombre…looking； two…storied house； located upon a point of the mainland which entered the swamp on the left shore of the river。 At this point the river widened to five or six rods； and at intervals land appeared a few inches above the water。 Wherever the pine land touched the river a pig…pen of rails offered shelter and a gathering…place for the hogs； which are turned loose by the white Cracker to feed upon the roots and mast of the wilderness。
Reeve's Ferry； on the right bank； with a little store and turpentine…still； twenty miles from Old Dock； was the next sign of the presence of man in this swamp。 The river now became broad as I approached Piraway Ferry； which is two miles below Piraway Farm。 Remembering the warnings of the squire as to the 〃awful wretches in the big pine woods；〃 I kept a sharp lookout for the old women who were to give me so much trouble； but the raftsmen on the river explained that though Jim Gore had told me the truth； I had misunderstood his pronunciation of the word reaches； or river bends； which are called in this vicinity wretches。 The reaches referred to by Mr。 Gore were so long and straight as to afford open passages for wind to blow up them； and these fierce gusts of head winds give the raftsmen much trouble while poling their rafts against them。
My fears of ill treatment were now at rest； for my tiny craft； with her sharp…pointed bow； was well adapted for such work。 Landing at the ferry where a small scow or flat…boat was resting upon the firm land； the ferryman； Mr。 Daniel Dunkin； would not permit me to camp out of doors while his log…cabin was only one mile away on the pine…covered uplands。 He told me that the boundary…line between North and South Carolina crossed this swamp three and a half miles below Piraway Ferry； and that the first town on the river Waccamaw； in South Carolina； Conwayborough； was a distance of ninety miles by river and only thirty miles by land。 There was but one bridge over the river； from its head to Conwayborough； and it was built by Mr。 James Wortham； twenty years before； for his plantation。 This bridge was twenty miles below Piraway； and from it by land to a settlement on Little River； which empties into the Atlantic； was a distance of only five miles。 A short canal would connect this river and its lumber regions with Little River and the sea。
For the first time in my experience as a traveller I had entered a country where the miles were short。 When fifteen years old I made my first journey alone and on foot from the vicinity of Boston to the White Mountains of New Hampshire。 This boyish pedestrian trip occupied about twenty…one days； and covered some three hundred miles of hard tramping。 New England gives honest measure on the finger…posts along her highways。 The traveller learns by well…earned experience the length of her miles； but in the wilderness of the south there is no standard of five thousand two hundred and eighty feet to a statute mile； and the watermen along the sea…coast are ignorant of the fact that one…sixtieth of a degree of latitude （about six thousand and eighty feet） is the geographical and nautical mile of the cartographer； as well as the 〃knot〃 of the sailor。
At Piraway Ferry no two of the raftsmen and lumbermen； ignorant or educated； would give the same distance； either upon the lengths of surveyed roads or unmeasured rivers。 〃It is one hundred and sixty…five miles by river from Piraway Ferry to Conwayborough；〃 said one who had travelled the route for years。 The most moderate estimate made was that of ninety miles by river。 The reader； therefore； must not accuse me of overstating distances while absent from the seaboard； as my friends of the Coast Survey Bureau have not yet penetrated into these interior regions with their theodolites； plane…tables； and telametrerods。 To the canoeist； who is ambitious to score up miles instead of collecting geographical notes； these wild rivers afford an excellent opportunity to satisfy his aims。
From sixty to eighty miles can be rowed in ten hours as easily as forty miles can be gone over upon a river of slow current in the northern states。 There is； I am sorry to say； a class of American travellers who 〃do〃 all the capitals of Europe in the same business…like way； and if they have anything to say in regard to every…day life in the countries through which they pass； they forget to thank the compiler of the guide…book for the information they possess。
There was but one room in the cabin of my new acquaintance； who represented that class of piny…woods people called in the south because they subsist largely upon corn； Corn Crackers； or Crackers。 These Crackers are the 〃poor white folks〃 of the planter； and 〃de white trash〃 of the old slave； who now as a freedman is beginning to feel the responsibility of his position。
These Crackers are a very kind…hearted people； but few of them can read or write。 The children of the negro； filled with curiosity and a newborn pride； whenever opportunity permits； attend the schools in large numbers； but the very indolent white man seems to be destitute of all ambition； and his children； in many places in the south； following close in the father's footsteps； grow up in an almost unimaginable ignorance。
The news of the arrival of the little Maria Theresa at Piraway Ferry spread with astonishing rapidity through the woods； and on Sunday； after 〃de shoutings；〃 as the negroes call their meetings； were over； the blacks came in numbers to see 〃dat Yankee…man's paper canno。〃
These simple people eyed me from head to foot with a grave sort of curiosity； their great mouths open； displaying pearly teeth of which a white man might well be proud。 〃You is a good man； capt'n we knows dat；〃 they said； and when I asked why； the answer showed their childlike faith。 〃'Cause you couldn't hab come all dis way in a paper boat if de Lord hadn't helped you。 He dono help only good folks。〃
The Cracker also came with his children to view the wonder； while the raftsmen were so struck with the advantages of my double paddle； which originated with the inhabitants of the Arctic regions； that they laid it upon a board and drew its outlines with chalk。 They vowed they would introduce it upon the river。
These Crackers declared it would take more than 〃de shoutings；〃 or any other religious service； to improve the moral condition of the blacks。 They openly accused the colored preachers of disturbing the nocturnal rest of their hens and turkeys； and as to hog…stealing and cow…killing； 〃Why； we won't have any critters left ef this carpet…bag government lasts much longer！〃 they feelingly exclaimed。
〃We does nothing to nobody。 We lets the niggers alone； but niggers will steal they can't help it； the poor devils； it's in 'em。 Now； ef they eats us out of house and home； what can a poor man do？ They puts 'em up for justices of peace； and sends 'em to the legislature； when they can't read more'n us； and they do say it's