to sea in the eye of the wind； returning at night。 They will thus remain among the innumerable islands and channels； till the change of the monsoon enables them to sail westward。
March 9th。…For four or five days we have had a continual gale of wind； with occasional gusts of great fury； which seem as if they would send Dobbo into the sea。 Rain accompanies it almost every alternate hour； so that it is not a pleasant time。 During such weather I can do little； but am busy getting ready a boat I have purchased； for an excursion into the interior。 There is immense difficulty about men； but I believe the 〃Orang…kaya；〃 or head man of Wamma； will accompany me to see that I don't run into danger。
Having become quite an old inhabitant of Dobbo； I will endeavour to sketch the sights and sounds that pervade it； and the manners and customs of its inhabitants。 The place is now pretty full； and the streets present a far more cheerful aspect than when we first arrived。 Every house is a store； where the natives barter their produce for what they are most in need of。 Knives； choppers； swords； guns； tobacco； gambier； plates； basins； handkerchiefs； sarongs； calicoes； and arrack； are the principal articles wanted by the natives； but some of the stores contain also tea； coffee； sugar； wine； biscuits； &c。； for the supply of the traders； and others are full of fancy goods； china ornaments； looking…glasses； razors； umbrellas； pipes； and purses； which take the fancy of the wealthier natives。 Every fine day mats are spread before the doors and the tripang is put out to dry； as well as sugar； salt； biscuit； tea； cloths； and other things that get injured by an excessively moist atmosphere。 In the morning and evening； spruce Chinamen stroll about or chat at each other's doors； in blue trousers； white jacket； and a queue into which red silk is plaited till it reaches almost to their heels。 An old Bugis hadji regularly takes an evening stroll in all the dignity of flowing green silk robe and gay turban； followed by two small boys carrying his sirih and betel boxes。
In every vacant space new houses are being built； and all sorts of odd little cooking…sheds are erected against the old ones； while in some out…of…the…way corners； massive log pigsties are tenanted by growing porkers； for how can the Chinamen exist six months without one feast of pig？
Here and there are stalls where bananas are sold； and every morning two little boys go about with trays of sweet rice and crated cocoa…nut； fried fish； or fried plantains； and whichever it may be； they have but one cry； and that is 〃Chocolat…tt！〃 This must be a Spanish or Portuguese cry； handed down for centuries； while its meaning has been lost。 The Bugis sailors； while hoisting the main sail； cry out； 〃Vela a vela； vela； vela； vela！〃 repeated in an everlasting chorus。 As 〃vela〃 is Portuguese a sail； I supposed I had discovered the origin of this； but I found afterwards they used the same cry when heaving anchor； and often chanted it to 〃hela；〃 which is so much an universal expression of exertion and hard breathing that it is most probably a mere interjectional cry。
I daresay there are now near five hundred people in Dobbo of various races； all met in this remote corner of the East； as they express it； 〃to look for their fortune；〃 to get money any way they can。 They are most of them people who have the very worst reputation for honesty as well as every other form of morality； Chinese； Bugis； Ceramese； and half…caste Javanese； with a sprinkling of half…wild Papuans from Timor； Babber； and other islands； yet all goes on as yet very quietly。 This motley； ignorant； bloodthirsty； thievish population live here without the shadow of a government； with no police； no courts； and no lawyers； yet they do not cut each other's throats； do not plunder each other day and night； do not fall into the anarchy such a state of things might be supposed to lead to。 It is very extraordinary！ It puts strange thoughts into one's head about the mountain…load of government under which people exist in Europe； and suggests the idea that we may be over…governed。 Think of the hundred Acts of Parliament annually enacted to prevent us； the people of England； from cutting each other's throats； or from doing to our neighbour as we would not be done by。 Think of the thousands of lawyers and barristers whose whole lives are spent in telling us what the hundred Acts of Parliament mean； and one would be led to infer that if Dobbo has too little law England has too much。
Here we may behold in its simplest form the genius of Commerce at the work of Civilization。 Trade is the magic that keeps all at peace； and unites these discordant elements into a well…behaved community。 All are traders； and know that peace and order are essential to successful trade； and thus a public opinion is created which puts down all lawlessness。 Often in former year； when strolling along the Campong Glam in Singapore； I have thought how wild and ferocious the Bugis sailors looked； and how little should like to trust myself among them。 But now I find them to be very decent； well…behaved fellows； I walk daily unarmed in the jungle； where I meet them continually； I sleep in a palm…leaf hut； which any one may enter； with as little fear and as little danger of thieves or murder as if I were under the protection of the Metropolitan police。 It is true the Dutch influence is felt here。 The islands are nominally under the government of the Moluccas； which the native chiefs acknowledge； and in most years a commissioner arrives from Amboyna； who makes the tour of the islands； hears complaints； settle disputes； and carries away prisoner any heinous offender。 This year he is not expected to come； as no orders have yet been received to prepare for him； so the people of Dobbo will probably be left to their own devices。 One day a man was caught in the act of stealing a piece of iron from Herr Warzbergen's house； which he had entered by making a hole through the thatch wall。 In the evening the chief traders of the place； Bugis and Chinese； assembled； the offender was tried and found guilty； and sentenced to receive twenty lashes on the spot。 They were given with a small rattan in the middle of the street； not very severely； the executioner appeared to sympathise a little with the culprit。 The disgrace seemed to be thought as much of as the pain； for though any amount of clever cheating is thought rather meritorious than otherwise； open robbery and housebreaking meet with universal reprobation。
CHAPTER XXXI。
THE ARU ISLANDS。JOURNEY AND RESIDENCE IN THE INTERIOR。
（MARCH TO MAY 1857。）
MY boat was at length ready； and having obtained two men besides my own servants； after an enormous amount of talk and trouble； we left Dobbo on the morning of March 13th； for the mainland of Aru。 By noon we reached the mouth of a small river or creek； which we ascended； winding among mangrove； swamps； with here and there a glimpse of dry land。 In two hours we reached a house； or rather small shed； of the most miserable description； which our steersman； the 〃Orang…kaya〃 of Wamma； said was the place we were to stay at； and where he had assured me we could get every kind of bird and beast to be found in Aru。 The shed was occupied by about a dozen men； women； and children； two cooking fires were burning in it； and there seemed little prospect of my obtaining any accommodation。 I however deferred inquiry till I had seen the neighbouring forest； and immediately started off with two men； net； and guns； along a path at the back of the house。 In an hour's walk I saw enough to make me determine to give the place a trial； and on my return； finding the 〃Orang…kaya〃 was in a strong fever…fit and unable to do anything； I entered into negotiations with the owner of the house for the use of a slip at one end of it about five feet wide； for a week； and agreed to pay as rent one 〃parang；〃 or chopping…knife。 I then immediately got my boxes and bedding out of the boat； hung up a shelf for my bird…skins and insects； and got all ready for work next morning。 My own boys slept in the boat to guard the remainder of my property； a cooking place sheltered by a few mats was arranged under a tree close by； and I felt that degree of satisfaction and enjoyment which I always experience when； after much trouble and delay； I am on the point of beginning work in a new locality。
One of my first objects was to inquire for the people who are accustomed to shoot the Paradise birds。 They lived at some distance in the jungle； and a man was sent to call them。 When they arrived； we had a talk by means of the 〃Orang…kaya 〃as interpreter； and they said they thought they could get some。 They explained that they shoot the birds with a bow and arrow； the arrow having a conical wooden cap fitted to the end as large as a teacup； so as to kill the bird by the violence of the blow without making any wound or shedding any blood。 The trees frequented by the birds are very lofty； it is therefore necessary to erect a small leafy covering or hut among the branches； to which the hunter mounts before daylight in the morning and remains the whole day； and whenever a bird alights they are almost sure of securing it。 （See Frontispiece。） They returned to their homes the same evening； and I never saw anything more of them； owing； as I afterwards found； to its being too early to obtain birds in good plumage。
The first two or three days of our stay here were very wet； and I obtained but few insects or birds； but at length； when I was beginning to despair； my boy Baderoon returned one day with a specimen which repaid me for months of delay and expectation。 It was a small bird a little less than a thrush。 The greater part of its plumage was of an intense cinnabar red； with a gloss as of spun glass。 On the head the feathers became short and velvety； and shaded into rich orange。 Beneath； from the breast downwards； was pure white； with the softness and gloss of silk； and across the breast a band of deep metallic green separated this colour from the red of the throat。 Above each eye was a round spot of the same metallic green； the bill was yellow； and the feet and legs were of a fine cobalt ó111e； strikingly contrasting with all the other parts of the body。 Merely in