ish officials and of a few Portuguese merchants； embedded in groves of palms and fruit…trees； whose varied and beautiful foliage furnishes a pleasing relief to the eye； as well as most grateful shade。
The old fort； the large Government House； and the ruins of a cathedral attest the former wealth and importance of this place； which was once as much the centre of Eastern trade as Singapore is now。 The following description of it by Linschott； who wrote two hundred and seventy years ago； strikingly exhibits the change it has undergone：
〃Malacca is inhabited by the Portuguese and by natives of the country； called Malays。 The Portuguese have here a fortress； as at Mozambique； and there is no fortress in all the Indies； after those of Mozambique and Ormuz； where the captains perform their duty better than in this one。 This place is the market of all India； of China； of the Moluccas； and of other islands around aboutfrom all which places； as well as from Banda； Java； Sumatra； Siam； Pegu； Bengal； Coromandel； and Indiaarrive ships which come and go incessantly； charged with an infinity of merchandises。 There would be in this place a much greater number of Portuguese if it were not for the inconvenience； and unhealthiness of the air； which is hurtful not only to strangers； but also to natives of the country。 Thence it is that all who live in the country pay tribute of their health； suffering from a certain disease； which makes them lose either their skin or their hair。 And those who escape consider it a miracle； which occasions many to leave the country； while the ardent desire of gain induces others to risk their health； and endeavour to endure such an atmosphere。 The origin of this town； as the natives say； was very small； only having at the beginning； by reason of the unhealthiness of the air； but six or seven fishermen who inhabited it。 But the number was increased by the meeting of fishermen from Siam； Pegu； and Bengal； who came and built a city； and established a peculiar language； drawn from the most elegant nodes of speaking of other nations； so that in fact the； language of the Malays is at present the most refined； exact； and celebrated of all the East。 The name of Malacca was given to this town； which； by the convenience of its situation； in a short time grew to such wealth； that it does not yield to the most powerful towns and regions around about。 The natives； both men and women； are very courteous and are reckoned the most skillful in the world in compliments； and study much to compose and repeat verses and love…songs。 Their language is in vogue through the Indies； as the French is here。
At present； a vessel over a hundred tons hardly ever enters its port； and the trade is entirely confined to a few petty products of the forests； and to the fruit； which the trees； planted by the old Portuguese； now produce for the enjoyment of the inhabitants of Singapore。 Although rather subject to fevers； it is not at present considered very unhealthy。
The population of Malacca consists of several races。 The ubiquitous Chinese are perhaps the most numerous； keeping up their manners； customs； and language； the indigenous Malays are next in point of numbers； and their language is the Lingua…franca of the place。 Next come the descendants of the Portuguesea mixed； degraded； and degenerate race； but who still keep up the use of their mother tongue； though ruefully mutilated in grammar； and then there are the English rulers； and the descendants of the Dutch； who all speak English。 The Portuguese spoken at Malacca is a useful philological phenomenon。 The verbs have mostly lost their inflections； and one form does for all moods； tenses； numbers； and persons。 Eu vai； serves for 〃I go；〃 〃I went；〃 or； 〃I will go。〃 Adjectives； too； have been deprived of their feminine and plural terminations； so that the language is reduced to a marvellous simplicity； and； with the admixture of a few Malay words； becomes rather puzzling to one who has heard only the pure Lusitanian。
In costume these several peoples are as varied as in their speech。 The English preserve the tight…fitting coat； waistcoat； and trousers； and the abominable hat and cravat； the Portuguese patronise a light jacket； or； more frequently； shirt and trousers only； the Malays wear their national jacket and sarong （a kind of kilt）； with loose drawers； while the Chinese never depart in the least from their national dress； which； indeed； it is impossible to improve for a tropical climate； whether as regards comfort or appearance。 The loosely…hanging trousers； and neat white half… shirt half jacket； are exactly what a dress should be in this low latitude。
I engaged two Portuguese to accompany me into the interior； one as a cook； the other to shoot and skin birds； which is quite a trade in Malacca。 I first stayed a fortnight at a village called Gading； where I was accommodated in the house of some Chinese converts； to whom I was recommended by the Jesuit missionaries。 The house was a mere shed； but it was kept clean； and I made myself sufficiently comfortable。 My hosts were forming a pepper and gambir plantation； and in the immediate neighbourhood were extensive tin…washings； employing over a thousand Chinese。 The tin is obtained in the form of black grains from beds of quartzose sand； and is melted into ingots in rude clay furnaces。 The soil seemed poor； and the forest was very dense with undergrowth； and not at all productive of insects； but； on the other hand； birds were abundant； and I was at once introduced to the rich ornithological treasures of the Malayan region。
The very first time I fired my gun I brought down one of the most curious and beautiful of the Malacca birds； the blue…billed gaper （Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchus）； called by the Malays the 〃Rainbird。〃 It is about the size of a starling； black and rich claret colour with white shoulder stripes； and a very large and broad bill of the most pure cobalt blue above and orange below； while the iris is emerald green。 As the skins dry the bill turns dull black； but even then the bird is handsome。 When fresh killed； the contrast of the vivid blue with the rich colours of the plumage is remarkably striking and beautiful。 The lovely Eastern trogons； with their rich…brown backs； beautifully pencilled wings； and crimson breasts； were also soon obtained； as well as the large green barbets （Megalaema versicolor）fruit… eating birds； something like small toucans； with a short； straight bristly bill； and whose head and neck are variegated with patches of the most vivid blue and crimson。 A day or two after； my hunter brought me a specimen of the green gaper （Calyptomena viridis）； which is like a small cock…of…the…rock； but entirely of the most vivid green； delicately marked on the wings with black bars。 Handsome woodpeckers and gay kingfishers； green and brown cuckoos with velvety red faces and green beaks； red…breasted doves and metallic honeysuckers； were brought in day after day； and kept me in a continual state of pleasurable excitement。 After a fortnight one of my servants was seized with fever； and on returning to Malacca； the same disease； attacked the other as well as myself。 By a liberal use of quinine； I soon recovered； and obtaining other men； went to stay at the Government bungalow of Ayer…panas； accompanied by a young gentleman； a native of the place； who had a taste for natural history。
At Ayer…panas we had a comfortable house to stay in； and plenty of room to dry and preserve our specimens； but； owing to there being no industrious Chinese to cut down timber； insects were comparatively scarce； with the exception of butterflies； of which I formed a very fine collection。 The manner in which I obtained one fine insect was curious； and indicates bow fragmentary and imperfect a traveller's collection must necessarily be。 I was one afternoon walking along a favourite road through the forest； with my gun； when I saw a butterfly on the ground。 It was large； handsome； and quite new to me； and I got close to it before it flew away。 I then observed that it had been settling on the dung of some carnivorous animal。 Thinking it might return to the same spot； I next day after breakfast took my net； and as I approached the place was delighted to see the same butterfly sitting on the same piece of dung； and succeeded in capturing it。 It was an entirely new species of great beauty； and has been named by Mr。 HewitsonNymphalis calydona。 I never saw another specimen of it； and it was only after twelve years had elapsed that a second individual reached this country from the northwestern part of Borneo。
Having determined to visit Mount Ophir； which is situated in the middle of the peninsula about fifty miles east of Malacca； we engaged six Malays to accompany us and carry our baggage。 As we meant to stay at least a week at the mountain； we took with us a good supply of rice； a little biscuit； butter and coffee； some dried fish and a little brandy； with blankets； a change of clothes； insect and bird boxes； nets； guns and ammunition。 The distance from Ayer…panas was supposed to be about thirty miles。
Our first day's march lay through patches of forest； clearings； and Malay villages； and was pleasant enough。 At night we slept at the house of a Malay chief； who lent us a verandah； and gave us a fowl and some eggs。 The next day the country got wilder and more dilly。 We passed through extensive forests； along paths often up to our knees in mud； and were much annoyed by the leeches for which this district is famous。 These little creatures infest the leaves and herbage by the side of the paths； and when a passenger comes along they stretch themselves out at full length； and if they touch any part of his dress or body； quit their leaf and adhere to it。 They then creep on to his feet； legs； or other part of his body and suck their fill； the first puncture being rarely felt during the excitement of walking。 On bathing in the evening we generally found half a dozen or a dozen on each of us； most frequently on our legs； but sometimes on our bodies； and I had one who sucked his fill from the side of my neck； but who luckily missed the jugular vein。 There are many species of these forest leeches。 All are small； but some are beautifully marked with stripes of brig