the grand canyon of arizona- 第14部分

The　descent　into　Hance　Canyon　reveals　a　fine　view　of　Ayer　Peak；　and　as　we　look　down　we　can　see　the　peculiar　shattering　of　the　Tonto　sandstones　that　Thomas　Moran　named　the　Temple　of　Set。　It　takes　but　a　few　minutes　to　ride　or　walk　down　to　the　temple；　which　is　one　of　the　distinctive　features　of　the　Hance　Trail；　down　which　most　of　the　early　visitors　to　the　Canyon　used　to　come。

Angel　Gate。　The　ascent　is　now　made　on　the　eastern　side　of　Hance　Canyon；　to　the　summit　of　the　Tonto　sandstones；　and　from　this　point　a　fine　view　of　Angel　Gate　is　to　be　had；　its　rich　reds　contrasting　agreeably　with　the　grays　and　olives　of　the　Tonto　series。

Mineral　and　Red　Canyons。　On　the　plateaus　separating　Hance　Canyon　from　Mineral　Canyon；　and　the　latter　from　Red　Canyon；　one　can　see　the　rare　Algonkian　strata　to　fine　advantage。　Numerous　faultings　and　flexurings　may　be　observed；　and　on　the　last　mile　before　reaching　the　foot　of　Red　Canyon；　the　trail　leads　through　a　great　boulder　bed　along　the　brink　of　the　gorge　immediately　overhanging　the　river。　Camp　is　made　here　at　night。

The　return　ride　up　the　Red　Canyon　Trail　is　made　enjoyable　by　the　brilliant　colorings；　the　faultings　and　nonconformities　of　the　strata；　which　are　apparent　even　to　the　most　undiscerning　layman。　Here　the　conglomerate　appears　above　the　blue　limestone；　while　ordinarily　it　is　found　below　it。　The　Algonkian　also　is　largely　in　evidence。　Across　the　river　one　may　see　the　location　of　the　asbestos　deposits。

Moran　Point。　Grand　View　Point　and　the　points　east　are　all　reached　from　the　Grand　View　Hotel。　The　first　of　these　is　Moran　Point；　seven　thousand　one　hundred　and　fifty…seven　feet　elevation；　five　miles　east。　The　trip　may　be　made　in　a　vehicle；　over　a　road　from　which　the　Canyon　is　not　visible　until　the　point　is　reached；　or　in　the　saddle；　over　a　trail；　the　last　two　miles　of　which　are　along　the　rim。　This　is　a　unique　trail；　from　the　fact　that　it　overlooks　Hance　Creek；　and　further　along；　gives　commanding　outlooks　down　Red　Canyon。

Zuni　Point。　From　Zuni　Point；　two　miles　further　east；　a　still　more　extensive　view　is　obtained。　The　trip　to　these　two　points　may　be　made　in　half　a　day；　but　many　prefer　to　give　a　full　day。

Navaho　Point　and　Desert　View。　Ten　miles　from　Grand　View　is　Navaho　Point；　over　seven　thousand　feet　elevation。　The　ride　thither；　after　leaving　Zuni　Point；　is　through　the　Coconino　Forest；　without　a　trail。　It　is　necessarily　a　saddle　trip。　The　outlook　is　especially　attractive；　as　it　presents　portions　of　the　Painted　Desert　and　the　mouth　of　Marble　Canyon。

Comanche　Point；　seven　thousand　and　seventy…nine　feet；　and　Cape　Solitude；　six　thousand　one　hundred　and　fifty…seven　feet；　are　respectively　about　seventeen　and　twenty　miles　east　of　Grand　View；　and　may　be　visited　in　the　saddle　during　a　camping…out　trip　of　two　days。　They　both　command　views　of　the　amphitheatre　where　the　Colorado　River　makes　an　almost　right　angle　curve　from　Marble　Canyon　into　the　Granite　Gorge。　The　walls　are　precipitous　to　three　thousand　five　hundred　feet　below；　and　the　outlook　afforded　is　about　seventy　miles　in　either　direction；　up　and　down　the　Canyon。　In　addition　to　the　Canyon　outlook；　Cape　Solitude；　which　might　well　be　called　Desert　View；　commands　a　fine　expanse　of　the　Painted　Desert；　extending　a　hundred　miles　in　either　direction；　the　colorings　of　which　are　especially　dazzling　at　sunset。　The　Little　Colorado　River　flows　through　this　desert；　one　thousand　five　hundred　feet　below　Cape　Solitude；　in　a　gorge　of　about　two　thousand　five　hundred　feet　in　depth。　From　the　narrow　canyon　of　the　Little　Colorado；　the　desert　rises　to　the　east　in　three　successive；　gigantic　steps　of　about　one　thousand　feet　each。　This　affords　a　panorama　of　glorious　colorings　at　sunset；　while　the　view　in　the　opposite　direction　glows　best　in　the　early　hours　of　dawn。

To　those　who　wish　to　camp　out；　sleeping　in　the　open　for　two　or　more　nights；　the　trip　may　be　extended　to　the　Canyon　of　the　Little　Colorado。　In　this　excursion；　one　gets　a　fine　breath　of　the　desert；　a　sight　of　the　narrow　and　boxed…in　Little　Colorado　Canyon；　and　extended　desert　views；　passing　by　Cedar　Mountain；　one　of　the　few　spots　where　fragments　of　the　almost　vanished　strata　of　the　Permian　age　are　still　visible。

Tuba　City　and　Moenkopi。　Tuba　City；　sixty　miles　east　of　Grand　View　Hotel　（a　four　days'　saddle　and　camping…out　trip）；　is　situated　in　the　Painted　Desert；　and　is　the　headquarters　of　the　Navaho　Indians　of　this　locality。　Here　also　is　located　the　United　States　Government　Indian　School；　where　the　children　of　several　tribes　are　being　civilized。　Two　miles　away　is　Moenkopi；　a　Hopi　village；　or　pueblo；　of　some　thirty　homes；　where　this　pastoral　and　home…loving　people　may　be　found　engaged　in　their　quiet　agricultural　pursuits；　the　women　also　busy　at　basket…making　and　the　fashioning　of　pottery。　At　Tuba　City　there　are　many　Navahos　living　in　their　hogans；　where　the　rude　silversmiths　are　at　work　creating　their　〃arts　and　crafts〃　ware；　and　the　looms　of　the　blanket…weavers　are　incessantly　busy。

Crater　Mountain。　Crater　Mountain；　thirty…nine　miles　south　of　Grand　View　Hotel；　is　an　extinct　volcano　with　one　side　eroded；　leaving　a　sheer　wall　five　hundred　feet　high　in　circular　form；　with　a　variety　of　pillars　standing　high　above　the　bottom　of　the　amphitheatre。　Its　red；　yellow　and　black　colors　combine　in　a　peculiar　harmony；　and　novel　effects　are　witnessed　at　sunset；　or　by　moonlight。　To　enjoy　this　trip　aright；　one　should　drive　there；　and　arrange　to　sleep　in　the　amphitheatre；　returning　on　the　following　day。

Extinct　Volcanoes。　Or；　if　a　more　extended　trip　is　desired；　one　can　drive　on　to　the　many　cinder　cones　and　extinct　volcanoes　that　lie　to　the　north　and　east　of　the　San　Francisco　Mountains；　including　Sunset　Crater　and　O'Leary　Peak；　and　then　into　Flagstaff。



CHAPTER　X。　A　New　〃Rim〃　Road　And　Trail　Into　The　Scenic　Heart　Of　The　Canyon

Large　corporate　bodies　do　not　always　move　with　the　same　rapidity　as　do　personal　enterprises　where　one　man　controls。　Many　minds　and　many　interests　often　have　to　be　consulted。　When；　however；　the　way　is　clear；　a　corporate　body；　with　its　vast　power；　can　accomplish　in　a　short　time　what　individuals　could　never　compass　in　several　successive　lifetimes。

These　remarks　are　exemplified　in　the　action　of　the　Santa　Fe　Railway　Company　at　the　Grand　Canyon。　It　has　taken　several　years　for　things　to　properly　shape　themselves　for　adequate　development；　so　that　all　classes　of　travelers　visiting　the　Grand　Canyon　could　be　suitably　provided　for。　In　hotel　accommodations；　El　Tovar；　and　the　equally　well　conducted　but　cheaper　Bright　Angel　Camp；　leave　nothing　to　be　desired。　In　transportation　facilities；　both　on　the　railway　and　for　drives；　riding　or　the　descent　of　the　trails；　provision　is　made　to　meet　the　most　exacting　demands。

Hermit　Rim　Road　and　Trail。　These　imperative　necessities　met；　attention　has　been　given　to　a　further　opening　up　of　the　scenic　portions　of　the　Canyon。　In　furtherance　of　this　policy　the　Santa　Fe　Railway　has　built　a　new　roadway　from　El　Tovar　and　Hopi　Point　along　the　south　rim　of　the　Canyon　to　the　head　of　Hermit　Trail；　nine　miles　west　of　El　Tovar。　It　is　called　Hermit　Rim　Road。

This　roadway　is　thirty　feet　in　width；　with　a　central　driveway；　fourteen　feet　wide；　of　crushed　stone　rolled　hard　and　sprinkled　with　crude　oil。　It　is　so　wide；　so　well　macadamized；　so　level　and　so　dustless　that　it　may　well　be　likened　to　a　city　boulevard　in　the　wilderness。

The　road　ends　at　the　head　of　Hermit　Trail；　a　new　pathway　now　being　built　down　the　south　wall　of　the　Canyon。　Though　this　trail　is　being　completed；　it　will　not　be　opened　for　regular　trail　service　until　the　summer　of　1912。　It　leads　down　into　the　very　heart　of　the　Canyon　and　reveals　innumerable　scenic　wonders　and　surprises。

Hermit　Rim　Road　to　Hermit　Basin。　Hermit　Rim　Road　closely　follows　the　rim　from　Hopi　Point　to　the　head　of　Hermit　Basin　and　the　top　of　Hermit　Trail；　not　too　near　the　brink；　but　in　and　out　among　the　trees；　affording　wonderful　vistas　of　the　Canyon　and　the　cliffs　of　the　opposite　wall。　Hermit　Rim　Road　is　perhaps　the　most　unique　highway　in　the　world；　for　there　is　no　other　roadway　on　the　brink　of　such　a　tremendous　gorge。　Startling　views　reveal　depths　of　the　Canyon　on　one　side；　and　on　the　other　are　quiet　scenes　down　long　forest　lanes。　In　places　there　is　a　sheer　drop　of　2；000　feet　within　a　rod　of　the　traveled　track；　and　another　drop　almost　as　far　below　that；　but　there　is　no　danger；　so　perfectly　have　the　engineers　of　the　road　done　their　work。

Leaving　El　Tovar；　the　road　quickly　ascends　El　Tovar　Hill；　giving　a　view　of　the　San　Francisco　Peaks　and　neighboring　mountains　standing　high　above　the　Tusayan　Forest；　and　purple　colored　with　the　haze　of　seventy…five　miles　of　distance。　Then；　down　into　Coconino　Wash；　up　Tusayan　Hill；　past　Maricopa　Point；　and　Hopi　Point；　long　noted　for　its　unrivaled　sunset　view；　is　reached。

About　a　mile　beyond　Hopi　Point　is　Mohave　Point；　standing　in　sheer　and　awful　precipices　above　Monument　Creek；　and　leaving　that；　a　huge　curve　on　top　of　Hopi　Wall　is　traversed；　and　opposite　this　place　the　granite　gorge　is　deepest。

Rounding　Mohave　Point　on　the　next　leg　of　the　journey　three　and　four…fifths　miles　to　Pima　Point；　is　the　greatest　curve　on　the　road；　and　along　this　section　there　is　much　to　claim　the　attention。　First　one　and　then　another　of　the　great　interior　rock　temples　seems　to　command　the　eye；　the　side　canyons　reaching　far　back　into　the　Kaibab　Plateau　on　the　north；　and　that　everywhere　enter　the　main　gorge；　show　depths　of　startling　distance；　the　predominant　colorsvermilion；　blue；　green；　buff；　and　grayare　incomparable；　and　the　wild　river；　roaring　and　tumbling；　may　be　seen　from　different　points；　though　from　the　roadway　it　seems　but　a　mere　ribbon　of　brown。　At　Pima　Point　the　road　curves　to　the　southwest　and　continues　for　more　than　a　mile　on　the　rim　of　Hermit　Basin；　until　the　head　of　Hermit　Trail　is　reached。　Wide　outlooks　across　the　Cataract　Canyon　country　and　unusual　views　of　the　river　are　afforded　on　the　final　mile。　The　road　ends　where　Hermit　Trail；　a　new　trail；　like　the　road；　wide　and　safe；　begins。

Hermit　Trail。　The　new　trail　is　being　built　on　the　most　approved　engineering　lines。　It　is　four　feet　wide　all　the　way；　with　a　low　protecting　wall　of　rock　on　the　outside；　and　is　most　carefully　laid　out。　Cuts　in　the　solid　rock；　likewise　heavy　stone