urning。 The stratum on which the road is made should be at the same level as the stratum on which El Tovar rests。
Fault at Bass Camp。 This fault is but one of a score or more on the plateau。 At Bass Camp there was a fault which displaced the strata on each side of the 〃break〃 to the extent of four thousand feet。 Later； another fault occurred； which readjusted the displacement somewhat； and reduced the difference to two thousand feet； yet left the evidences of the former wide divergence。 It was also during these uplift periods that the volcanic mountains of the region came into existence； as the San Francisco Range； Mounts Kendricks； Sitgreaves； Williams and Floyd on the south； and the UinkaretsMounts Trumbull； Logan； Emmaon the north。
Lava Flows。 In one place； south of Mount Emma； Powell's party saw where vast floods of lava had flowed from it into the river。 They declare that 〃a stream of molten rock has run up the Canyon three or four miles； and down； we know not how far。 The whole north side； as far as we can see； is lined with the black basalt； and high up on the opposite wall are patches of the same material； resting on the benches； and filling old alcoves and caves； and giving to the wall a spotted appearance。〃 All these volcanic mountains can be seen from Hopi or Yavapai points； near El Tovar。
The Algonkian Strata。 The Algonkian strata of the Grand Canyon are by far the most interesting； Major Powell was the first to call attention to their existence in his report of explorations of 1869…1872； and he discusses their origin and history as far as was possible with the small amount of data he had at hand。 Later Dr。 Charles D。 Walcott； his successor as Director of the United States Geological Survey； and now the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution； spent a full winter in the heart of the Canyon； especially studying the unique formations。 Unique they are； for； though found elsewhere on the earth； they are exceedingly rare； and； up to this time； had received little study and were unknown and unnamed。 The area studied by Walcott lies at the very entrance to the Grand Canyon； near where the Marble Canyon and Little Colorado Canyon join the main one。 While the series cross the river and are a fine feature of Red Canyon Trail； the main study was done on the north side。 Dr。 Walcott thus locates the site of his studies： 〃This area； between 35 degrees 57 minutes and 36 degrees 17 minutes north latitude； and between 111 degrees 47 minutes and 112 degrees west longitude； is in the valley portion of the Canyon； between the mouth of Marble Canyon and a point south of Vishnu's Temple； a little west of where the Colorado River changes its course from south to southwest。 It is wholly within the greater depths of the Grand Canyon； east and southeast of the Kaibab Plateau。 The intercanyon valleys of this portion of the Grand Canyon extend back from three to seven miles west of the river； and are eroded in the crest of the Monoclinal fold that forms the eastern margin of the Kaibab Plateau。〃
There are also interesting remnants of Algonkian directly opposite El Tovar to the west of the Bright Angel Creek。 They are easily discernible by their brilliant geranium or vermilion color。 They extend for a mile or more westward； and rise above the Tonto sandstones； which properly belong above them。
The most remarkable deposit and exhibition of Algonkian strata in the Canyon； so far as known； occurs directly east of the great Kaibab Plateau； opposite the Little Colorado River。 Here there must be several； possibly five or six thousand feet of these interesting strata； which Nature has allowed to remain up to our day。 Geologists are now investigating them more thoroughly than ever before； and we may expect； when they publish the reports of their labors； that our geological knowledge of the Algonkian epoch； and possibly of other puzzling matters； will be much increased by the light they will throw upon them。
CHAPTER XIV。 The CanyonAbove And Below
The Canyon Rim。 There are several rather remarkable and surprising points of difference between the Canyon on the rim； and the Canyon in its depths。 Above； the whole Canyon region； save during the rainy season； is waterless； and while not barren； owing to the growths made possible by winters' snows and summers' rains； it is a veritable desert as far as water； whether in streams； creeks； rivulets or springs； is concerned。
Drainage of the Canyon。 On both sides of the Canyon； all the surface water of the rains drains away from the Canyon for miles； and not until it has flowed； perhaps from within a few feet of the edge of the abyss itself； from twenty to a hundred miles； does it empty into the drainage channels which； burrowing down into the earth； reconvey the water back； by circuitous routes； into the depths of the Canyon； there to add to the flow of the Colorado。
Rain at El Tovar。 Take rain that falls； for instance； at El Tovar itself； within sight of the Canyon。 After a heavy storm； the visitor may see it dashing down the Bright Angel Wash （up which the railway runs） to Bass Station； where it turns and enters the narrower section of the Wash。 It flows in a general southwesterly direction； and enters the Coconino Wash； which discharges into the open plain； once the bed of the great inland Eocene Sea。 Here it disappears。
An Underground Stream。 In this plain are some breaks in the rocky bed； which allow the water to flow down to join the underground current of the Havasu （or Cataract） Creek； which runs on the northern slope of Bill Williams Mountain。 This underground stream （as explained in the chapter on Havasu Canyon） emerges at the head of the village of the Havasupai Indians； in a thousand springs； and then flows on； over several precipices； to the lower levels； thus making the exquisite waterfalls that have rendered this Canyon world…famous。 It finally reaches the Colorado some fifteen miles away； where its clear blue waters are soon lost in the muddy flood of the 〃Red。〃
Water in the Canyon。 After one has ridden in the hot summer sun over this waterless region； and seen the waterwagons of the miners and sheep men； and the great train of water…tanks being hauled for the guests at El Tovar； it is a surprise and a wonder to find below； in the heart of this rocky…walled Canyon； a mighty river dashing its headlong way to the west。 Many a time； after a week of riding horseback on the plateau above； until every particle of moisture seemed to have evaporated from my body； have I gone down the trail to the river and camped there； enjoying a swim several times a day； and rowing up and down one of the quiet stretches； between the rapids； where boating is not only possible but reasonably safe。 In the Bright Angel and the Shinumo on the north side； and the Havasu on the south side； one may swim； or at least soak and paddle； in cooling waters； where waving willows； giant sycamores； and green cottonwoods sway above the streams； and rich verdure of great variety lines their banks。 What a wonderful contrast；above and below！
Difference between the Rim and the River。 Another remarkable difference； or surprise； is found when one leaves the rim above； where the weather is lovely and there is not a sign of rain； and go below to the river； which gives evidence of a great rise。 How can the river rise without rain？ Yet it seems to； and one almost doubts the evidence of his own senses。
Experience on the River。 Engineer Stanton tells of an experience as his party went through the river： 〃About 2：30 P。 M。 we heard a deep； loud roar； and saw the breakers ahead in white foam。 With a great effort we stopped upon a pile of broken rock that had rolled into the river。 When we went ahead to look； much to our surprise； the whole terrible rapid that we had expected to see had disappeared； and there was only a rushing current in its stead。 While we stood wondering； there rose right at our feet those same great waves； twelve to fifteen feet in height and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet long across the river； rolling down stream like great sea waves； and breaking in white foam with terrible noise。 We watched and wondered and at last concluded that this was the forefront of a vast body of water rolling down this narrow trough from some great cloud…burst above。 （We learned afterwards that there had been such a cloud…burst on the head…waters of the Little Colorado。） Believing that discretion was the better part of valor； we camped right there on that pile of rocks； fearing that； although our boats would ride the waves in safety； we might be caught in one of these rolls just at the head of a rapid； and； unable to stop； be carried over the rapid with the additional force of the rushing breakers。〃
High and Low Water。 The piles of driftwood found on the rocks in the Canyon reveal a difference of upwards of two hundred feet between high and low water。 This； however； does not refer to the general condition of high water； but to exceptional cases。 As； for instance； I myself once saw a mass of rock； the whole face of the cliff； containing doubtless millions of tons； fall into the trough of the stream。 The whole course was at once dammed up； and the river rose sixty feet in one hour before the principal mass of rock was made topheavy by the power of the flood。 Then it rolled over with the force of the millions of tons of water behind it； and crumbled as it rolled。 The mighty wave dashed on； carrying everything before it。 In less than another hour the rock mass had disappeared； and the water had resumed its normal level。 A rise of fifty to seventy feet is not so very unusual in the heart of the gorge； where it is narrow and the waters would necessarily pile up。 To see such a rise； without any evidence of a rain above； is a wonderful experience that one occasionally enjoys。
Snow on the Rim。 Another remarkable contrast is observed by winter tourists。 On the rim at El Tovar； Grand View； or Bass Camp snow may fall during December； January and February； and sometimes in March； though it quickly disappears。 This is not surprising when one considers the high altitudes。 The weather is then sometimes quite frigid； but it is a dry cold which rapidly yields to the warm midday sun。 Do not imagine from this general statemen