e forest again became dense and the trees large； with much undergrowth in places obstructing the view and making progress difficult。
I spent several hours in this wild paradise； which was so much more delightful than the extensive gloomier forests I had so often penetrated in Guayana； for here； if the trees did not attain to such majestic proportions； the variety of vegetable forms was even greater； as far as I went it was nowhere dark under the trees； and the number of lovely parasites everywhere illustrated the kindly influence of light and air。 Even where the trees were largest the sunshine penetrated； subdued by the foliage to exquisite greenish…golden tints； filling the wide lower spaces with tender half…lights； and faint blue…and…gray shadows。 Lying on my back and gazing up； I felt reluctant to rise and renew my ramble。 For what a roof was that above my head！ Roof I call it； just as the poets in their poverty sometimes describe the infinite ethereal sky by that word； but it was no more roof…like and hindering to the soaring spirit than the higher clouds that float in changing forms and tints； and like the foliage chasten the intolerable noonday beams。 How far above me seemed that leafy cloudland into which I gazed！ Nature； we know； first taught the architect to produce by long colonnades the illusion of distance； but the light…excluding roof prevents him from getting the same effect above。 Here Nature is unapproachable with her green； airy canopy； a sun…impregnated cloudcloud above cloud； and though the highest may be unreached by the eye； the beams yet filter through； illuming the wide spaces beneathchamber succeeded by chamber； each with its own special lights and shadows。 Far above me； but not nearly so far as it seemed； the tender gloom of one such chamber or space is traversed now by a golden shaft of light falling through some break in the upper foliage； giving a strange glory to everything it touchesprojecting leaves； and beard…like tuft of moss； and snaky bush…rope。 And in the most open part of that most open space； suspended on nothing to the eye； the shaft reveals a tangle of shining silver threadsthe web of some large tree…spider。 These seemingly distant yet distinctly visible threads serve to remind me that the human artist is only able to get his horizontal distance by a monotonous reduplication of pillar and arch； placed at regular intervals； and that the least departure from this order would destroy the effect。 But Nature produces her effects at random； and seems only to increase the beautiful illusion by that infinite variety of decoration in which she revels； binding tree to tree in a tangle of anaconda…like lianas； and dwindling down from these huge cables to airy webs and hair…like fibres that vibrate to the wind of the passing insect's wing。
Thus in idleness； with such thoughts for company； I spent my time； glad that no human being； savage or civilized； was with me。 It was better to be alone to listen to the monkeys that chattered without offending； to watch them occupied with the unserious business of their lives。 With that luxuriant tropical nature； its green clouds and illusive aerial spaces； full of mystery； they harmonized well in language； appearance； and motionsmountebank angels； living their fantastic lives far above earth in a half…way heaven of their own。
I saw more monkeys on that morning than I usually saw in the course of a week's rambling。 And other animals were seen； I particularly remember two accouries I startled； that after rushing away a few yards stopped and stood peering back at me as if not knowing whether to regard me as friend or enemy。 Birds； too； were strangely abundant； and altogether this struck me as being the richest hunting…ground I had seen； and it astonished me to think that the Indians of the village did not appear to visit it。
On my return in the afternoon I gave an enthusiastic account of my day's ramble； speaking not of the things that had moved my soul； but only of those which move the Guayana Indian's soulthe animal food he craves； and which； one would imagine； Nature would prefer him to do without； so hard he finds it to wrest a sufficiency from her。 To my surprise they shook their heads and looked troubled at what I said； and finally my host informed me that the wood I had been in was a dangerous place； that if they went there to hunt； a great injury would be done to them； and he finished by advising me not to visit it again。
I began to understand from their looks and the old man's vague words that their fear of the wood was superstitious。 If dangerous creatures had existed there tigers； or camoodis； or solitary murderous savagesthey would have said so； but when I pressed them with questions they could only repeat that 〃something bad〃 existed in the place； that animals were abundant there because no Indian who valued his life dared venture into it。 I replied that unless they gave me some more definite information I should certainly go again and put myself in the way of the danger they feared。
My reckless courage； as they considered it； surprised them； but they had already begun to find out that their superstitions had no effect on me； that I listened to them as to stories invented to amuse a child； and for the moment they made no further attempt to dissuade me。
Next day I returned to the forest of evil report； which had now a new and even greater charmthe fascination of the unknown and the mysterious； still； the warning I had received made me distrustful and cautious at first； for I could not help thinking about it。 When we consider how much of their life is passed in the woods； which become as familiar to them as the streets of our native town to us； it seems almost incredible that these savages have a superstitious fear of all forests； fearing them as much； even in the bright light of day； as a nervous child with memory filled with ghost…stories fears a dark room。 But； like the child in the dark room； they fear the forest only when alone in it； and for this reason always hunt in couples or parties。 What； then； prevented them from visiting this particular wood； which offered so tempting a harvest？ The question troubled me not a little； at the same time I was ashamed of the feeling； and fought against it； and in the end I made my way to the same sequestered spot where I had rested so long on my previous visit。
In this place I witnessed a new thing and had a strange experience。 Sitting on the ground in the shade of a large tree； I began to hear a confused noise as of a coming tempest of wind mixed with shrill calls and cries。 Nearer and nearer it came； and at last a multitude of birds of many kinds； but mostly small； appeared in sight swarming through the trees； some running on the trunks and larger branches； others flitting through the foliage； and many keeping on the wing； now hovering and now darting this way or that。 They were all busily searching for and pursuing the insects； moving on at the same time； and in a very few minutes they had finished examining the trees near me and were gone； but not satisfied with what I had witnessed； I jumped up and rushed after the flock to keep it in sight。 All my caution and all recollection of what the Indians had said was now forgot； so great was my interest in this bird…army； but as they moved on without pause； they quickly left me behind； and presently my career was stopped by an impenetrable tangle of bushes； vines； and roots of large trees extending like huge cables along the ground。 In the midst of this leafy labyrinth I sat down on a projecting root to cool my blood before attempting to make my way back to my former position。 After that tempest of motion and confused noises the silence of the forest seemed very profound； but before I had been resting many moments it was broken by a low strain of exquisite bird…melody； wonderfully pure and expressive； unlike any musical sound I had ever heard before。 It seemed to issue from a thick cluster of broad leaves of a creeper only a few yards from where I sat。 With my eyes fixed on this green hiding…place I waited with suspended breath for its repetition； wondering whether any civilized being had ever listened to such a strain before。 Surely not； I thought； else the fame of so divine a melody would long ago have been noised abroad。 I thought of the rialejo； the celebrated organbird or flute…bird； and of the various ways in which hearers are affected by it。 To some its warbling is like the sound of a beautiful mysterious instrument； while to others it seems like the singing of a blithe…hearted child with a highly melodious voice。 I had often heard and listened with delight to the singing of the rialejo in the Guayana forests； but this song； or musical phrase； was utterly unlike it in character。 It was pure； more expressive； softerso low that at a distance of forty yards I could hardly have heard it。 But its greatest charm was its resemblance to the human voicea voice purified and brightened to something almost angelic。ne； then； my impatience as I sat there straining my sense； my deep disappointment when it was not repeated！ I rose at length very reluctantly and slowly began making my way back； but when I had progressed about thirty yards； again the sweet voice sounded just behind me； and turning quickly； I stood still and waited。 The same voice； but not the same songnot the same phrase； the notes were different； more varied and rapidly enunciated； as if the singer had been more excited。 The blood rushed to my heart as I listened； my nerves tingled with a strange new delight； the rapture produced by such music heightened by a sense of mystery。 Before many moments I heard it again； not rapid now； but a soft warbling； lower than at first； infinitely sweet and tender； sinking to lisping sounds that soon ceased to be audible； the whole having lasted as long as it would take me to repeat a sentence of a dozen words。 This seemed the singer's farewell to me； for I waited and listened in vain to hear it repeated； and after getting back to the starting…point I sat for upwards of an hour； still hoping to hear it once more！
The weltering sun at length compelled me to quit the wood； but not before I had resolved to return the next morning