as at the present day。 Every spring became a centre of attraction。 The
ruins of the ancient Kythrea have been partially excavated by the
indefatigable General di Cesnola； but with unimportant results； as the
ground is under artificial irrigation； and is in the highest
cultivation； therefore it cannot be disturbed。
The chief industry of modern times which adds to the importance of
Kythrea； is the production of silk； from the great abundance of
mulberry…trees which supply the necessary food for the silkworms； but it
has suffered to a considerable degree； in common with most silk…growing
districts in Cyprus； by the want of foresight of the producers； these
people have within the last few years sold the seed in such extravagant
quantities to the traders of Beyrout as to leave the island with a short
supply。 The result of this sacrifice for the sake of ready money is a
serious reduction in the general produce； and in many portions of the
island the mulberry…trees are flourishing without a silkworm to feed
upon them。 The thirty…two flour…mills of Kythrea are worked by a fall of
400 feet between the head…water of the spring to the base of the lowest
mill at the foot of the mountains。 It appeared to me that much water is
wasted by an absence of scientific control。 A series of reservoirs would
store the excess during the hours when the mills are idle （similar to
the mill…ponds in England）； but as there is no municipal law upon this
important subject； the all…important stream is much neglected。 There is
a general demand for grinding…power throughout Cyprus； the corn is
brought from great distances to the mills of Kythrea at a considerable
expense of transport； I have met droves of mules laden with wheat and
barley on their way from Larnaca； to which distant spot they would again
return when their loads should have been reduced to flour。 In the face
of this difficulty a general want of energy and of the necessary capital
is exhibited by the total neglect of wind…power； in a country where a
steady breeze is the rule； with few exceptions。 Throughout the great
plain of Messaria windmills would be invaluable； both for grinding
purposes and for raising water； nothing would be more simple than the
combination of the wind…vane with the cattle…pump； but this great and
almost omnipresent power is absolutely ignored。
On our return to camp in the evening； I resolved to have a quiet day
with my dogs on the following morning； when I could stroll at my leisure
over the mountains； and enjoy myself thoroughly according to my own
tastes； sometimes obtaining a shot at game； and observing every object
in nature。
It was 15th February； and with a native guide and interpreter who spoke
Arabic； which was my medium of dialogue； I started to cross the
mountain…range upon the east of the well…known five…knuckled…top named
〃Pentadactylon。〃 At the expense of repetition I cannot help extracting
from my diary the exact words of description rough from the first
impulse： 〃The base of this range is an extraordinary example of the
action of rainfall in melting and washing down into conical mounds
several hundred feet high； what was originally a high level of
continuous but alternating strata of marls and alluvium that had
descended from the higher mountains。 These vast masses are in a chaotic
confusion of separate heaps； which at a distance resemble volcanic
cones。 We rode up precipitous paths edging upon deep chasms between
these conical hills； and emerged upon metamorphous rocks and shale
mingled in curious irregularity。 The strata of shale were in some
instances nearly vertical； proving the disturbance that had been
occasioned by a subsequent upheaval。 About 200 feet above this formation
we entered upon the dark grey jurassic limestone； and the soil became a
rich red like that of South Devon。 The rock scenery was very imposing as
we increased our altitude and arrived upon plateaux of considerable
extent。 There can be no doubt that these natural terrace…like surfaces
and various hollows accumulate the rainfall of a great area； and that
some vast subterranean caverns in the limestone form natural reservoirs；
which supply the celebrated springs of Kythrea throughout the year。〃
I believe these few words contain the real secret of the springs； which
have been； and still are； considered to have a mysterious origin。 Some
people indulge in the theory that the water is forced by hydraulic
pressure at the superior altitude of Caramania in Asia Minor； and
passing by a subterranean conduit far beneath the bottom of the
intervening channel； it ascends at the peculiar rock…mouth of Kythrea。
This is simple nonsense； and can only be accepted by those who adore the
unreal； instead of the guide； 〃common…sense。〃 The actual volume of the
outflow at Kythrea has never been calculated； although the problem is
most simple； but a cursory examination is sufficient to explain the
origin of the supply which a certain superficial mountain area collects
and stores during the rainy seasons： to yield gradually through some
small aperture or leak in a grand subterranean reservoir。
In all countries where water is scarce； unfailing springs are objects of
veneration； and are clothed not only with undying verdure； but with a
continuous growth of legends： from the day when Moses smote the rock in
the wilderness； and the stream gushed forth to the thirsty Israelites；
to the present hour； water； which is man's first necessity； will in
drought…smitten countries be hailed with more than usual reverence。 The
devout Mussulman sinks a well and erects a fountain for the public good；
and his friends bury his body in the neighbourhood of his last act。
〃Rest； weary pilgrim； rest and pray
For the kind soul of Sybil Grey；
Who built this Cross and Well。〃
Christian and Mahommedan； and all creeds and races； men and animals；
yield unanimously to the great want； which in a thirsty land alone will
bring the lion and the lamb to drink in the same stream。 I have myself
seen in moonlight； animals of various and conflicting natures revelling
in the rest of nature's armistice； drinking in crowds at the solitary
pool； the only source of water in the desert。
The Cypriotes in their natural love of the marvellous insist upon the
mystery attached to the Kythrea springs； but they attach no importance
to the extensive subterranean water…stores of the Messaria plain； simply
because they do not see it issue from the ground： still the fact is
there； the water in vast quantities always exists； and were it tapped at
a higher level； it would flow （as it actually does in certain places）；
and exhibit the same principle upon a much larger scale than the
romantic and picturesque mountain springs of Kythrea。
As we increased our altitude the scenery improved in interest： we were
no longer in barren mounds of water…washed debris； but the rich soil
among the dark grey rocks gave birth to numerous shrubs； including the
evergreen mastic； arbutus； and the dwarf cypress。 Although the route was
only marked by the continual tracks of the lime…burner's mules； our
sturdy animals mounted the steep rocky ascents with comparative ease；
and skirted the deep water…worn ravines without missing a footstep。
Heaps of rough crumbling rocks resembling cairns attracted my attention
on all sides； these were the rude lime…kilns； and at an elevation of
about a thousand feet above Kythrea we came upon the families of
lime…burners who for several generations have resided in these heights；
either in caves； or rude huts； according to the conditions of the
locality。 Women and girls were hard at work with strong grubbing…axes；
digging out the roots of brushwood from among the rocks and making them
into faggots； as fuel for burning the grey limestone。 The work was most
laborious； and I was struck by the great thickness of the roots of
comparatively small shrubs。 Upon regarding the surface； no bushes
appeared sufficiently substantial for the use of fuel； but in fact a
they had for centuries been cut and hacked to a degree that reduced them
superficially to mere saplings； while the ancient roots had increased in
size。 The great piles of limestone were only partially reduced to lime
by the rough method and the scant fuel employed； but I admired the
industry of these poor people； who were working like the Israelites for
Pharaoh； 〃making bricks without straw。〃 Some of the girls were pretty；
but in figure they were mere rag…dolls in locomotion。
The lime was conveyed by donkeys to the lower country； and we presently
arrived at a snow…white heap lying in the centre of the path；it was
explained； that； during the heavy shower of yesterday； a donkey was
carrying his usual burthen of quick…lime； when he was overtaken by the
rain； which slaked the load； and it was necessary to immediately abandon
it； to save the animal from burning。
After an hour and a half's scramble we turned to the right beneath a
perpendicular cliff of exquisite colouring on our left； combining the
bright red which denoted the presence of iron； with the dark purple and
the silvery grey of the Jura limestone。 On our right was a deep and
precipitous ravine； sparsely covered with evergreen shrubs。 In this
spot； metamorphic rocks lay in rough and huge blocks of various shapes
and colours； and while examining these I was struck by the presence of
the rare and peculiar green marble known as verde antica。 In the
immediate neighbourhood I discovered great masses of the same stone； but
minus the green base； exhibiting at the same time the characteristics of
irregular mosaic in the angular fragments of white； black； and various
coloured pieces which appeared to be artificially inlaid。 These marbles；
especially the true verde antica； would be exceedingly valuable if cut
into slabs and exported； and there would be little difficulty in
constructing a feasible route for camels； which would convey with ease
large slabs secured in frames slung upon either side。
A few yards above this spot we arrived at a solitary cypress…tree； which
in density of foliage resembled a yew…tree in an English churchyard。
Close to this rare object was an aperture in the rocks upon