Close to this rare object was an aperture in the rocks upon the right
hand； a few roughly…hewn steps enabled us to descend into a narrow cave；
where water dripped from the roof； and formed a feeble stream； which was
led through crevices to a cistern some yards below。 This cistern was
within a few feet of the cypress…tree； and accounted for its superior
growth； as the roots had been duly nourished。 About a hundred feet above
this spot were the ruins of an ancient Greek church； that had no doubt
been associated with the holy dripping fountain； and the solitary tree
had been spared from the ruthless axes of the lime…burners through some
superstition connected with the spot。 On arrival at the crumbling ruins
of the church； we dismounted from our animals； and put them in the rude
stable of the lime…burners who had located themselves among the walls of
the once religious buildings； which they had converted into huts。
Animals could go no farther； we therefore continued the ascent on foot；
to the delight of my dogs； who seemed to think it looked more like
business。
There was a large growth of the usual shrubs arbutus； mastic； and
dwarf…cypress； and the surface of the ground was so completely covered
with masses of rock that walking was most difficult。 Notwithstanding the
apparent barrenness of the locality； we arrived at a tolerably even
surface of rich brown soil in a hollow near the shoulder of the
mountain； this had recently been cleared for cultivation by the
lime…burners to the extent of about two acres； and I remarked that both
pine…trees and cypresses as thick as a man's thigh had recently been
felled and burnt in spite of the government stringent regulations。 In
these out…of…the…way localities the natives can laugh at laws and
special enactments。
Upon arrival at the crest of the mountain； which formed a shoulder for a
peak of silvery rocks； about 100 feet above me； my aneroid showed 1830
feet above Kythrea。 From this point the view was superb； and extended
north and south from sea to sea。 There was an extraordinary contrast
upon these two divisions formed by the wall…like Carpas range upon which
we stood： to the south all was brown and desolate excepting the few
miles of green belonging to Kythrea beneath our feet。 The town of
Lefkosia stood out in bold relief； the cathedral and even the fortress
walls affording distinct outlines in the clear atmosphere； the
salt…lakes of Larnaca showed plainly in the distance； backed by the blue
sea； and the mountain of Santa Croce with the monastery upon its summit
was a well…known landmark。 This side of the mountain range was not
inviting； and if it had been exhibited before the occupation there can
be little doubt of an unfavourable impression。 We turned
〃right…about…face〃 to the north。 This was indeed a wonderful change of
aspect！ We looked down from the picturesque and precipitous wall of
mountains which stretched far away to the east and west； the sides were
covered with evergreens； through which the bold crags protruded in
rugged points； the dark indentures upon the steep slopes marked deep
ravines in which streams of water now rippled； while all on the south
were stony and exhausted。 The strip of land between the sea and the
northern base of the Carpas range was hardly three miles wide； this was
covered with well…rounded caroub…trees； whose dark green foliage gave a
rich appearance to the shore； broken by countless rocky bays and coves；
filled with the cobalt waters of the Mediterranean。 This was a lovely
scene； I could not believe that I was in Cyprusthat
whitey…brown…paper…coloured； desert； smitten； God…forsaken isle！ Upon
the left； about eight miles distant； lay the town and important port of
Kyrenia； with an apparently very little harbour； the houses surrounded
by gardens； and ornamented by date…palms backed by a perfect forest of
caroub…trees which extended for some miles。 On the extreme summit of the
crags upon our left； overlooking Kyrenia and forming an unmistakable
landmark for all sailors； was the castle of Buffavento； cutting the blue
sky…line 3240 feet above the sea。 Exactly opposite； at about sixty miles
distance； were the snow…capped mountains of Caramania； which in the
transparent atmosphere seemed to be within a day's long march。 Far； far
away along the north…eastern shore； and also towards the west； all was
lovely： I could only regret that all vessels and strangers must arrive
in the unfortunate ports of the Messaria； instead of gaining such
favourable first impressions as would be induced by the lovely picture
of Cyprus from the north。
While I had been admiring the view； my dogs had been hunting the dense
bushes to very little purpose； and although we scrambled for more than
two hours over the mountain； we only moved ten or twelve red…legged
partridges； which rose upwards of a hundred yards in front of the gun；
it was quite impossible to obtain a shot。 With an empty bag； but with a
new impression of the country since my view of the landscape in the
north； I turned homewards； and reached camp late in the afternoon； my
spaniels having no doubt a low opinion of Cyprus sport； and of the
unfair advantages taken by the ever…running red…legged partridges。
On 16th February a painful conviction was established that Cyprus was
unfitted for wheeled carriages and springs。 Although the plain appeared
flat and without natural obstacles； the ground had been completely
traversed by deep trenches for the purpose of checking and conducting
surface water to the fields in the event of a heavy shower。 Our course
should have been directly across the plain to intersect the road from
Lefkosia to Famagousta； but a glance at the intervening country showed
the impossibility of moving the vans through the miles of green crops
which were nourished by innumerable watercourses； each of which must be
levelled before we could advance。 It was therefore necessary to retrace
our steps to within a mile and a half of Lefkosia； to the point where
the main route branched to Famagousta。 This was a great waste of time；
but there was no other way of avoiding the difficulty。 Accordingly we
started； and after a few miles we cut across country to the high road；
while the vans slowly crawled along the uneven way until they reached
the turning…point。 We halted at a very desolate spot； where sheep were
housed in large numbers。 Several spacious pens were surrounded with
thorns； reminding me of the cattle zareebas of Africa； and a small
flat…topped building； built of stone and mud； formed the usual
accommodation for man and beast。 A well of clear but brackish water
supplied this rude establishment； which was surrounded by a boundless
extent of undulating ground； more or less cultivated with cereals；
which； although only a few inches above the surface； looked weak and
perishing。
The vans did not arrive until late； in the meanwhile we had sat outside
the building in the cold air； fearing to venture beneath the roof； owing
to the swarms of fleas which are sure to be 〃at home〃 in all the
miserable dwellings of this island。 At length the gipsy…van； which had
been in sight for a full hour； drew up on the flat surface in front of
the shepherd's hut； and real comfort was at once at hand。 Although the
space within was limited； the furniture was so carefully arranged that
we had plenty of room to move about。 The fall…slab table was usually
down； and was only required for writing； the chest of drawers was
American walnut： a good solid and well…seasoned wood； which did not
provoke the temper like English furniture by the drawers sticking when
in the act of opening； and leaving you in a hopeless position with a
detached handle in either hand。 This good American chest was only three
feet two inches high； therefore it formed a convenient toilette…table
beneath a window； which； curtained with muslin and crimson cloth； had an
exceedingly snug appearance； and a cushioned seat upon either side upon
the lid of a locker combined comfort with convenience。 We had a tiny
little movable camp…table that could be adjusted in two minutes； and
would dine two persons； provided that no carving was performed； and that
the dishes were handed round。 The bed was athwart…ship at the far end
beneath the stern…window； but at such a height from the floor that
several broad shelves beneath contained gun…cases； ammunition； clothes；
boots； tins of preserved provisions； and in fact everything that；
although necessary； was to be kept out of sight。 The only mistake in the
arrangements was a very large and gorgeous open…brass…work Egyptian
lantern； with glass of various colours and outlandish patterns in
Arabesque。 In the evening we formed an irregular light…house； as two
ordinary carriage…lamps were fixed above and on either side the entrance
door； while the gorgeous many…coloured lantern swung from the roof
inside； and flashed red； green； and yellow signals in wild confusion。 I
knew this piece of finery would not last long； as it would insist upon
running against everybody's head； its large size bringing it into
constant collision； but it looked well； and ornamented the van。 As it
burnt several candles the lantern became hot； which somewhat warmed the
cabin； and was a welcome increase of temperature； for although the floor
was protected by oil…cloth； upon which were double layers of Scinde
rugs； the extreme thinness of the walls made it unpleasantly cold with
the thermometer outside at 40 degrees。 The servants were saved an
immense amount of trouble by the presence of the gipsy…van； which at the
time they hardly appreciated； they had no tent…pitching upon the halt；
neither unpacking of boxes； nor arranging of beds； nor any of the usual
work connected with a daily camp。 It is impossible for the inexperienced
to appreciate the comfort of such a vehicle where the roads are
practicable； especially in bad weather； when you are perfectly certain
that your home is weather…proof and your bed dry。 Those who have
experienced the misery of a halt in pouring rain； when everybody and
everything has been sodden to the bone； when the ground is slush that
will not hold a tent…peg； the night dark； the fuel will not burn； the
matches exp