everything has been sodden to the bone； when the ground is slush that
will not hold a tent…peg； the night dark； the fuel will not burn； the
matches expend themselves in vain phosphoric flashes； but will not
ignite； the water that has run down your neck has formed reservoirs
within your boots； the servants are reduced to the inactivity of
sponges； andthe tents MUST be pitched。 The heavy soaked canvas that
can hardly flap in the strong wind is at length spread over the cold
soft ground； the camp…beds； though wet as tripe； MUST be arranged； and
down go the iron legs； sinking to an unknown depth into the sodden soil！
Oh； misery； misery！ happily unknown to those who stay at home。 All this
may be avoided in a country where practicable routes exist by travelling
with a gipsy…van。 Of course you do not personally travel within your
van： it simply forms a movable home that accompanies you upon the march；
and is always there when required； while you ride independently upon
your animal。 We live and learn： and I have from experience modified my
ideas of a gipsy…van； for a roadless country such as Cyprus practically
isI should have NO SPRINGS。 If you are obliged to travel bodily within
your vehicle； there can be no doubt that springs relieve the spine； and
various indescribable portions of your anatomy； but if your simple 〃but
upon wheels〃 is to be dragged along； over； and through all kinds of
obstacles； there can be no use whatever in springs； which by their
elasticity allow your vehicle to sway from side to side； and to
seriously threaten the centre of gravity； when in a dangerous place； by
oscillation。 The cap…waggon of South Africa will go anywhere。 The
two…wheeled cart of Cyprus is a wonderfully simple affair that may be
dragged up or down the side of a mountain by a couple of oxen； the high
wheels and light but strong body surmounting all obstacles； these carts
do not carry more than twelve or fourteen hundredweight； but in an
expedition I should much prefer them to the heavy waggons of South
Africa； which； with three thousand pounds； require ten or twelve oxen。
The heavier weight in a difficulty of soft ground； or in crossing a
river； would be serious； but if the vehicles are numerous； and the
weight distributed accordingly； it stands to sense that an enormous
advantage is secured by the presence of ten oxen in five light carts；
all of which can be applied to drag a single cart out of a serious
dilemma； instead of remaining hopelessly fixed in soft mud； anchored by
a weight of a ton and a half； as in the case of an African
baggage…waggon。 High and broad wheels are the first necessity； with a
compound axle of wood and iron； the unequal elasticity of which relieves
the shock。
I invariably found that during the day I hated my van； and in the
evening I blessed it。 It certainly delayed us on the march； and as we
rode some miles in advance we noted the obstacles that would cause a
stoppage； and generally halted to assist when the 〃tortoise〃 should
arrive。 All this was of course annoying in a country where a horse would
have cantered cheerily along and have accomplished forty miles a day；
but； on the other hand； the van was never intended for grande vitesse；
neither is express travelling the proper method of obtaining an accurate
knowledge of a new country。 Thus we crawled along； making twelve or
thirteen miles per diem through a most uninteresting country； the usual
scene of treeless waste； but dotted over with extensive villages of
mud…built houses； and the inevitable white arched…roof Greek churches。
The only incidents that occurred in this land of apathy were occasioned
by our guide； who generally lost his way； and spent some hours in
finding the vans at the halting…place in the evening； this was not
improving to the temper； and of course I laid the blame upon Cyprus
generally； and abused the island almost to the superlative degree
adopted by the 〃newspaper correspondents。〃
The 17th February was a day of considerable bodily exercise； as we
arrived at a series of watercourses as deep and broad as military
trenches for sapping up to a fortress。 We had no sooner levelled an
embankment； and with great difficulty dragged the vans across； than we
encountered a new and similar obstruction。 At length we arrived within
half a mile of the large village Arshia； which； being well irrigated；
opposed a perfect network of barriers in the shape of artificial
water…channels。 The oxen became disheartened； and the pair which drew
the blue van driven by our favourite Georgi determined to strike work
just as he was applying the sharp driving prick to their posteriors in
ascending a steep bank； through which we had cut a passage from the deep
water…course beneath。 Instead of keeping a straight course； these
pig…headed bullocks made a sharp turn to the right up the incline。 Down
went one upon its knees in rage and despair！ while round went the other
in an opposite direction： crash went the pole in two pieces！ and the
blue van； having vainly endeavoured to right itself like a lady about to
faint when no one is at hand to save her； tottered for a moment； and
turned over with a crash that betokened general destruction。 My
Abyssinian lad； Amarn； was only just in time to escape； as he had been
endeavouring to support the van on the impending side when it suddenly
capsised； and he would have been flattened like a black…edged mourning
envelope had he not actively sprung out of the way。
All hands set about righting the shipwhich was upon her beam…ends； and
the wheels uppermost。 The first thing necessary was to discharge cargo；
this we quickly effected； as there were doors in front and behind； and
the numerous packages were soon piled upon the wayside。 No sooner was
the van empty； than my dogs； who had been watching the operation in
bewilderment； jumped in； and no inducement would persuade them to quit
the comfortable vehicle； which they supposed had been specially cleared
for their convenience； the doors were accordingly shut； and they were
locked up。 We now passed ropes beneath the van； and secured the ends to
the bottom of the wheels； which rested upon the ground； the other ends
were thrown over the cap…roof and manned； while the rest of the party
endeavoured to raise the van bodily。 All working together； we righted it
immediately； the astonished dogs were liberated； and we soon replaced
the contents。 I sent a messenger to Arshia to purchase if possible a
piece of wood sufficiently long to form a pole； and in the meantime I
employed my tools and myself in splicing the broken pole sufficiently to
enable us to creep a little nearer to the village； as we were far from
water。
It was nearly dark by the time I had completed my work； and the bullocks
were once more fastened to the van。 In this way we approached within a
quarter of a mile of the village and halted for the night。 I made a
capital pole from the stem of a young fir…tree which I procured from the
natives； and lashed it securely to the rough but strong splinter…bar of
dwarf…cypress。
On the following morning at daybreak I made a few alterations in the
work of the preceding night； and having thoroughly secured the new pole；
we started for Kuklia； about thirteen miles distant。 After passing a few
more watercourses； we arrived at the best ground we had seen in Cyprus；
and the vans travelled with ease at upwards of three miles an hour。
Throughout this march I observed that the water in the various wells and
open pits was hardly five feet from the surface； although the country
was suffering from an absence of rain。 Notwithstanding this natural
advantage； there were only two farms upon which the cattle…wheels were
used for purposes of irrigation； which proves the lack of enterprise and
capital throughout this miserable district。
There were many important villages upon the higher ground； which
overlooked the lower plain through which the river Pedias was supposed
to flow。 These heights were about a hundred and fifty feet above the
lower level； and continued to increase their elevation for many miles；
until they formed the horizon on the south…west and west。 The soil was
extremely fertile； but as usual covered with stones； the debris of
decayed limestone of the post…tertiary period； such as is found
throughout the Messaria。 The flat valley below was about thirteen miles
across due north； and was bounded by the Carpas range； which extended to
the east beyond telescopic view。 In our front was a cheering scene；
towards which we hastened with all speed； as sailors rush on deck at the
first cry of 〃Land ahead！〃 we hurried forward at the unusual sight；
〃Green trees！〃 Groves of tall cypress； poplars； and other varieties；
springing from a base of exquisite verdure； formed a rare and
unmistakable landmark。 This was Kuklia； our halting…place； the property
of Monsieur Richard Mattei。
Upon arrival at the village we selected a pretty spot upon elevated
ground which overlooked the entire country； and from which we could
faintly distinguish Famagousta； twelve miles distant。 Upon our right；
within a hundred and twenty yards； was an aqueduct of masonry supported
upon arches； which conveyed a powerful stream to turn a large overshot
water…wheel in the valley immediately below。 The surplus water； after
having worked the mill； was used for the irrigation of extensive
cotton…grounds； beyond which it flowed into the marshes and formed a
swamp。 On the opposite side of this narrow valley were heights and
undulating ground； corresponding to those upon which we stoodall
treeless and cold； while upon our right； close to the aqueduct； was the
bright green of high cultivation； and groves of tall trees which towered
above gardens of oranges and lemons now bending beneath the burden of
yellow fruit。 The village was disappointing； as the houses were of a low
order and much neglected； the lanes were occupied by the usual filth and
noisy dogs； but the agreeable view of bright green fields and real
thriving trees was a delightful change； and exhibited a picture of what
Cyprus might become when developed by capital and enterprise。 While the
camp was being arranged I took my gun and strolled with the dogs in