mountains of this formerly verdant island； is pronounced by the
inhabitants 〃Kypresses；〃 which approximates closely to the various
appellations of Cyprus in different languages。 The Greek name is Kypros；
and it is probable that as in ancient days the 〃chittim…wood〃 was so
called from the fact of its export from Chittim； the same link may
remain unbroken between Kypros and the tree Kypresses。
The geographical advantages which I have enumerated are sufficient to
explain the series of struggles for possession to which the island has
been exposed throughout its history； the tombs that have been examined；
have revealed the secrets of the dead； and in the relics of Phoenicians；
Persians； Assyrians； Egyptians； and the long list of foreign victors； we
discover proofs of the important past； until we at length tread upon
pre…historical vestiges； and become lost in a labyrinth of legends。 From
the researches of undoubted authorities； we know that Cyprus possessed a
written character peculiarly original； and that it was occupied by a
people highly civilised according to the standard of the early world at
so primitive an era； that all records have disappeared； and we are left
in the darkness of conjecture。
The changes in the importance of certain geographical positions； owing
to the decline and fall of empires； which at one time governed the
destinies of the Eastern world； have been strikingly exhibited on the
shores of the Mediterranean； Tyre； Sidon； Carthage； Cyprus； had lost
their significance upon modern charts； even before the New Worlds
appeared； when America； Australia； and the Eastern Archipelago were
introduced upon the globe。 The progress of Western Europe eclipsed the
Oriental Powers which hitherto represented the civilisation of mankind；
and two points alone remained； which； shorn of their ancient glory；
still maintained their original importance as geographical centres； that
will renew those struggles for their possession which fill the bloody
pages of their historyEgypt and Constantinople。
No country had been more completely excluded from the beaten paths of
British travellers than the island of Cyprus； and England was startled
by the sudden revelation of a mystery connected with the Treaty of
Berlin； that it was to become a strategical point for a British military
occupation！
On the 4th June； 1878； a 〃Convention of Defensive Alliance between Great
Britain and Turkey〃 was signed； which agreed upon the following
articles：…
ARTICLE I。
〃If Batoum； Ardahan； Kars； or any of them； shall be
retained by Russia； or if any attempt shall be made at
any future time by Russia to take possession of any
further territories of His Imperial Majesty the Sultan
in Asia； as fixed by the definitive treaty of peace；
England engages to join His Imperial Majesty the Sultan
in defending them by force of Arms。
〃In return； His Imperial Majesty the Sultan promises to
England to introduce necessary reforms； to be agreed
upon later between the two Powers； into the government；
and for the protection of the Christian and other
subjects of the Porte in those territories； and in
order to enable England to make necessary provision for
executing her engagement； His Imperial Majesty the
Sultan further consents to assign the island of Cyprus
to be occupied and administered by England。
ARTICLE II。
〃The present Convention shall be ratified； and the
ratifications thereof shall be exchanged； within the
space of one month； or sooner if possible。
〃In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries
have signed the same； and have affixed thereto the seal
of their arms。
〃Done at Constantinople； the fourth day of June； in the
year one thousand eight hundred and seventy…eight。
〃A。H。 LAYARD。
〃SAFVET。〃
It was eventually agreed between the contracting Powers：…
〃That England will pay to the Porte whatever is the
present excess of revenue over expenditure in the
island； this excess to be calculated and determined by
the average of the last five years。〃
and：
〃That if Russia restores to Turkey Kars and the other
conquests made by her in Armenia during the last war；
the island of Cyprus will be evacuated by England； and
the Convention of the fourth June； 1878； will be at an
end。〃
I knew nothing of Cyprus； but I felt sure that the Turks had the best of
the bargain； as they would receive the usual surplus revenue from our
hands； and be saved the trouble and onus of the collection； they would
also be certain of a fixed annual sum； without any of those risks of
droughts； famine； and locusts； to which the island is exposed； and which
seriously affect the income。
Although there would only be a wildly remote chance of Russia ever
relinquishing her Asiatic prey； the bare mention of the words 〃will be
evacuated by England〃 was a possible contingency and risk； that would
effectually exclude all British capital from investment in the island。 I
could not discover any possible good that could accrue to England by the
terms of the Convention。 If Cyprus had been presented as a 〃bonus〃 by
the Porte to counterbalance the risk we should incur in a defensive
alliance for the protection of Asia Minor； I could have seen an addition
to our Colonial Empire of a valuable island； that would not only have
been of strategical value； but such that in a few years； money and
British settlers would have entirely changed its present aspect； and
have created for it a new era of prosperity。
If England had purchased Cyprus； I could have understood the plain；
straightforward； business…like transaction； which would have at once
established confidence； both among the inhabitants； who would have
become British subjects； and through the outer world； that would have
acknowledged the commencement of a great future。
But； if we were actually bound in defensive alliance with Turkey in case
of a war with Russia； why should we occupy Cyprus upon such one…sided
and anomalous conditions； that would frustrate all hopes of commercial
development； for the sake of obtaining a strategical position that would
have been opened to our occupation AS AN ALLY at any moment？ On the
other hand； if we distrusted Turkey； and feared that she might coquet
with Russia at some future period； I could see a paramount necessity for
the occupation of Cyprus； and even Egypt； but we were supposed to be；
and I believe were； acting in absolute and mutual good faith as the
protector of Asiatic Turkey； in defensive alliance with the Sultan。 In
that position； should we have entered into a war with Russia； there was
no necessity for the occupation and responsibility of any new position；
as every port of the Ottoman dominions； even to the Golden Horn of
Constantinople； would have welcomed our troops and boats with
enthusiasm。
Turkey is a suspicious Power； and the British government may have had to
contend with difficulties that are unknown to the criticising public； it
may have been impossible to have obtained her sanction for the
occupation under other conditions。 The possibility of future
complications that might terminate in a close alliance between the
conquered and the victor； may have suggested the necessity for securing
this most important strategical position without delay； upon first
conditions that might subsequently receive modifications。 At first sight
the political situation appeared vague； but I determined to examine the
physical geography of Cyprus； and to form my own opinion of its
capabilities。
CYPRUS AS I SAW IT IN 1879。
CHAPTER 1。
ARRIVAL AT LARNACA。
On the morning of the 4th January we sighted Cyprus at about fifty miles
distance； after a smooth voyage of twenty…six hours from Alexandria。 The
day was favourable for an arrival； as the atmospherical condition
afforded both intense lights and shadows。 The sky was a cobalt blue； but
upon all points of the compass local rain…clouds hovered in dark patches
near the surface； and emptied themselves in heavy showers。 The air was
extremely clear； and as we steamed at ten knots each hour brought out in
prominent relief the mountain peaks of Cyprus； Olympus was capped with
clouds。 Passing through a rain…cloud which for a time obscured the view；
we at length emerged into bright sunshine； the mists had cleared from
the mountain range； and Troodos； 6；400 feet above the sea…level； towered
above all competitors。
We were now about ten miles from the shore； and the general appearance
of the island suggested a recent snowfall。 As the sun shone upon a bare
white surface； the sterile slopes and mountain sides were utterly devoid
of vegetation； and presented a sad aspect of desolation； which reminded
me of the barren range on the shores of the Red Sea。
First impressions are seldom correct； but the view of Cyprus on arrival
from the south was depressing； and extinguished all hopes that had been
formed concerning our newly…acquired possession。 This was the treasure
acquired by astute diplomacy！
For about twenty miles we skirted this miserable coast； upon which not a
green speck relieved the eye； at length we sighted the minaret which
marked the position of Larnaca； the port or roadstead to which the mail
was bound； and in the town we distinguished three or four green trees。
We cast anchor about half a mile from the shore。 Nine or ten vessels；
including several steamers； were in the roadstead； and a number of
lighters were employed in landing cargoes。
Disappointment and disgust were quickly banished by the reflection that
at this season （January） there was nothing green in England： the
thermometer in that dreary land would be below freezing…point； while on
the deck where we stood it was 64 degrees Fahr。 We were quickly in a
boat steering for the landing…place。
All towns look tolerably well from the sea； especially if situated
actually upon the margin of the water。 The town represented a front of
about a mile； less than five feet above the level of the sea； bordered
by a masonry quay perpendicular to the surface； from which several
wooden jetti