by a masonry quay perpendicular to the surface； from which several
wooden jetties of inferior and very recent construction served as
landing…places。
The left flank of Larnaca was bounded by a small Turkish fort；
absolutely useless against modern artillery upon the walls the British
flag was floating。 We landed upon the quay。 This formed a street； the
sea upon one side； faced by a row of houses。 As with all Turkish
possessions； decay had stamped the town： the masonry of the quay was in
many places broken down； the waves had undermined certain houses； and in
the holes thus washed out by the action of water were accumulations of
recent filth。 Nevertheless； enormous improvements had taken place since
the English occupation。 An engineer was already employed in repairing
the quay； and large blocks of carefully faced stone （a sedimentary
limestone rock of very recent formation） were being laid upon a bed of
concrete to form a permanent sea…wall。 The houses which lined the quay
were for the most part stores； warehouses； and liquor…shops。 Among these
the Custom House； the Club； Post Office； and Chief Commissioner's were
prominent as superior buildings。 There was a peculiar character in the
interior economy of nearly all houses in Larnaca； it appeared that heavy
timber must have been scarce before the town was built； as the upper
floor was invariably supported by stone arches of considerable
magnitude； which sprang from the ground…floor level。 These arches were
uniform throughout the town； and the base of the arch was the actual
ground； without any pillar or columnar support； so that in the absence
of a powerful beam of timber； the top of the one…span arch formed a
support for the joists of the floor above。 In large houses numerous
arches gave an imposing appearance to the architecture of the ground
floors； which were generally used as warehouses。 Even the wooden joists
were imported poles of fir； thus proving the scarcity of natural
forests。 The roofs of the houses were for the most part flat； and
covered with tempered clay and chopped straw for the thickness of about
ten inches。 Some buildings of greater pretensions were gaudy in bright
red tiles； but all were alike in the general waste of rain…water； which
was simply allowed to pour into the narrow streets through innumerable
wooden shoots projecting about six feet beyond the eaves。 These gutters
would be a serious obstacle to wheeled conveyances； such as lofty
waggons； which would be unable in many cases to pass beneath。 The
streets are paved； but being devoid of subterranean drains； a heavy
shower would convert them into pools。 Foot passengers are protected from
such accidents by a stone footway about sixteen inches high upon either
side of the narrow street。 Before the English occupation these hollow
lanes were merely heaps of filth； which caused great unhealthiness； they
were now tolerably clean； but in most cases the pavement was full of
holes that would have tested the springs and wheels of modern vehicles。
I had heard； prior to leaving England； that hotels； inns； &c。； were
unknown in Larnaca； I was； therefore； agreeably surprised on landing； to
find a new hotel （Craddock's） which was scrupulously clean； the rooms
neatly whitewashed； and everything simple and in accordance with the
requirements of the country。
The miserable reports in England respecting the want of accommodation；
and the unhealthiness of Cyprus； had determined me to render myself
independent； I had therefore arranged a gipsy travelling…van while in
London； which would； as a hut upon wheels； enable us to select a
desirable resting…place in any portion of the island； where the route
should be practicable for wheeled conveyances。 This van was furnished
with a permanent bed； shelves or wardrobe beneath； a chest of drawers；
table to fall against the wall when not in use； lockers for glass and
crockery； stove and chimney； and in fact it resembled a ship's cabin；
nine feet six inches long； by five feet eight inches wide。
I had another excellent light four…wheeled van constructed by Messrs。
Glover Brothers； of Dean Street； Soho： both these vehicles had broad and
thick iron tires to the wheels； which projected 5/8 inch upon either
side beyond the felloes； in order to afford a wide surface to deep soil
or sandy ground without necessitating a too massive wheel。
The vans with all my effects had left London by steamer direct for
Cyprus； I therefore found them； upon my arrival from Egypt； in the
charge of Mr。 Z。 Z。 Williamson； a most active agent and perfect
polyglot； the latter gift being an extreme advantage in this country of
Babel…like confusion of tongues。
I was now prepared to investigate Cyprus thoroughly； and to form my own
opinion of its present and future value。
The day after my arrival I strolled outside the town and exercised my
three spaniels which had come out direct from England。 The dogs searched
for game which they did not find； while I examined the general features
of the country。 About three…quarters of a mile from the present town or
port are the remains of old Larnaca。 This is a mere village； but
possesses a large Greek church。 The tomb of Lazarus； who is believed to
have settled in Cyprus to avoid persecution after his miraculous
resurrection from the grave； is to be seen in the church of St。 George
within the principal town。
From this point an excellent view is obtained of the adjacent country。 A
plain of most fertile soil extends along the sea…coast towards the east
for six miles； and in breadth about four miles。 The present town of
Larnaca stands on the sea…board of this plain； which to the west of the
port continues for about four miles； thus giving an area of some ten
miles in length； forming almost a half circle of four miles in its
semi…diameter； the whole is circumscribed by hills of low but increasing
altitudes； all utterly barren。 Through the plain are two unmistakable
evidences of river…action which at some remote period had washed down
from the higher ground the fertile deposit which has formed the alluvium
of the valley。 Within this apparently level plain is a vestige of a once
higher level； the borders of which have been denuded by the continual
action of running water during the rushes from the mountains in the
rainy season。 This water action has long ceased to exist。 There can be
little doubt that in the ancient days of forest…covered mountains； the
rainfall of Cyprus was far greater than at present； and that important
torrents swept down from the hill…sides。 We see evidences of this in the
rounded blocks； all water…worn； of syenite and gneiss； which are
intermingled with the bits of broken pottery in the vale； alike relics
of the past and proving the changes both in nature and in man since
Cyprus was in the zenith of prosperity。
A level plateau about eighteen feet above the lowest level of the plain
shows the original surface。 The soil of the entire valley is calcareous；
and is eminently adapted for the cultivation of the vine and cereals。 As
the rain has percolated through the ground； it has become so thoroughly
impregnated with sulphate of lime that it has deposited a series of
strata some six or seven feet below the surface； which form a flaky
subterranean pavement。 The ancients selected this shallow soil of a
higher level for a burial…ground； and they burrowed beneath the stratum
of stony deposit to form their tombs。 One of the chief occupations of
modern Cypriotes appears to be the despoiling of the dead； thus the
entire sides of the plateau…face for a distance of about two miles are
burrowed into thousands of holes to a depth of ten and twelve feet in
search of hidden treasures。 If the same amount of labour had been
expended in the tillage of the surface； the result would have been far
more profitable。 A small proportion of the land upon the outskirts of
the town was cultivated； some had been recently ploughed； while in other
plots the wheat had appeared above the surface。 Water is generally found
at eight or nine feet below the level； but this is of an inferior
description； and the town and environs are well supplied by an aqueduct
which conveys the water from powerful springs about seven miles to the
west of Larnaca； near Arpera。 This useful work was constructed according
to the will of a former pacha； who bequeathed the sum required； for a
public benefit。
Large flocks of sheep were grazing in various portions of the
uncultivated plain。 At first sight they appeared to be only searching
for food among the stones and dust； but upon close examination I found a
peculiar fleshy herb something like the stone…crop which grows upon the
old walls and rocks of England。 This plant was exceedingly salt； and the
sheep devoured it with avidity； and were in fair condition。 The wool was
long； but of a coarse wiry texture； and much impaired by the adherence
of thistles and other prickly plants。 The musical sound of distant bells
denoted the arrival of a long string of camels； laden with immense bales
of unpressed cotton on their way to the port of Larnaca。 Each animal
carried two bales； and I observed that the saddles and pads were in
excellent order； the camels well fed； and strongly contrasting with the
cruel carelessness of the camel owners of Egypt； whose beasts are galled
into terrible sores from the want of padding in their packs。 The cotton
had been cleaned upon the plantation； but it would be subjected to
hydraulic pressure and packed in the usual iron…bound bales for
shipment； upon arrival in the stores of Larnaca。
It was impossible to resist a feeling of depression upon strolling
around the environs of the town and regarding the barren aspect of the
distant country。 Every inch of this fertile plain should be cultivated；
and numerous villages should be dotted upon the extensive surface。
〃Thorns also and thistles shall it bring forth〃 was a curse that
appeared to have adhered to Cyprus。
It was unnecessary to seek for the chief cause of unhealthiness； this
was at once apparent in the low swamps on the immediate outskirts of the
town。 In ancient days the shallow harbour of Cittium existed on the east
side of modern Larnaca； whether fr