well repay the outlay。
Some persons have attributed the cause of unhealthiness to the existence
of the trenches made by the Turks during the siege in 1571； which are
considered to emit malarious exhalations。 I do not think so； all these
low levels； surrounded by high banks which protect the crops from wind；
are most carefully cultivated with beans； cereals； cotton； and garden
produce； and I do not believe that successful gardens are malarious； but
only those localities where water is allowed to become stagnant； in
which case cultivation must be a failure。 Many of these rich bottoms
were at one time valuable as 〃madder〃 grounds； and Consul White states
that in 1863 good madder…root land at Famagousta was worth 90 pounds per
acre。 It may not be generally known that the indelible dye called
〃Turkey red〃 was formerly produced from the madder…root； but that it has
been entirely superseded by the chemical invention known as 〃alizarine；〃
which； by reducing the price in a ruinous degree； has driven the
vegetable substance out of the market； and the madder is no longer
cultivated。 This chemical discovery has lowered the rich； deep； sandy
loams of Famagousta and of Morphu to a mere average agricultural value；
and has completely destroyed an important local industry。
The madder…root required three years before it arrived at maturity。 From
Consul Riddell's report in 1872； the amount of madder exported reached
330 tons； of which 250 tons were shipped for Great Britain。 The same
authority reports in 1873； 〃The falling…off； however； in the quantity
sent to Great Britain is remarkable； being only 230 cwts。 （11。5 tons）。〃
This disappearance of a special agricultural industry has been an
enormous loss to the proprietors of the madder…lands。
The fruit…orchards and gardens of Famagousta are the finest in the
island。 The land is extremely rich； and of a bright chocolate colour；
but the trees are； as usual in Cyprus； planted too close to each other；
which interferes with the necessary light and circulation of air。 These
gardens commence just outside the walls； and； running parallel with the
sea below the large village of Varoschia； extend for about two miles
along the shore。 Oranges； lemons； pomegranates； apricots； figs； prickly
pears and mulberry…trees； are the chief products； and it was here that
we obtained the largest and best oranges that I had tasted in the
island； generally this fruit is much inferior to the varieties imported
into England。 The pomegranates of Cyprus are very celebrated； and are
exported to Egypt； but it is a fruit that is not generally appreciated
by Europeans。 There are extensive gardens inland； but they do not convey
the idea of 〃gardens〃 as understood by Englishmen； but are merely dense
groves of various fruit…trees； irrigated by a cattle…wheel； and planted
with an utter disregard of all taste or arrangement。
The large village； or town of Varoschia is an important adjunct to
Famagousta； from which it is hardly separated。 It was originally founded
by the Venetian Christians； who were expelled from Famagousta after the
Turkish conquest。 There is a large Greek Church； extensive bazaars； and
several manufactures of pottery； for which the locality is celebrated。
We saw a vessel loading in the harbour entirely with thesejars；
water…bottles； dishes； &c。but the earthen…ware is of a coarse
description； and the quality of the clay does not admit of sufficient
porosity for the purpose of cooling water or of filtering； like the
Egyptian ware； at the same time it is not sufficiently impervious for
the retention of wine or oil without a considerable loss by absorption。
Varoschia has been always celebrated for a large production of a high
quality of silk； but the quantity has fallen off； as in all other parts
of the island。 There are some good houses in this thriving and busy
little town； and it is said that decent accommodation may be had； but I
preferred the cleanliness and independence of our own tent。
Varoschia is not much healthier than Famagousta； as it suffers from the
same cause； in addition to an enormous accumulation of filth on the
heights at the rear of the town。 If this were carefully stored to manure
the numerous gardens； it would be profitably utilised； but it belongs to
nobody in particular； and is a public nuisance。 A fine should be
inflicted upon the municipal authorities in the sanitary interests of
the population； and the refuse of the neighbourhood should be
periodically collected into heaps and burned。 Captain Inglis and the
various British officials moved their quarters from Famagousta to the
healthy village of Derinia； about three miles distant； during our stay
near Varoschia。 The new station is to the south…west of the port； and
completely beyond the influence of the marshes； the elevation being
about 250 feet above the sea。 Should this locality become a permanently
healthy settlement； the sanitary difficulty of our position will be
considerably modified； as the troops might be quartered at Derinia in
time of peace； and even during war they would be immediately within
call。
A lake exists about three miles inland from Famagousta； which is between
four and five miles in circumference； the water is fresh； but
exceedingly shallow and impure； the edges covered with high reeds； which
extend for several hundred yards from the shore。 This lake swarms with
varieties of water…fowl； which can only be shot by wading and waiting
concealed in the high cover of rushes and tamarisk； as they are
exceedingly wary。 Commander Hammond； of H。M。S。 Torch； bagged thirty…five
ducks to his own gun upon one occasion； by thus challenging the fever
and remaining hip…deep in the muddy water for some hours。 I did not feel
disposed to risk the chances of malaria； as the effluvium from the mud
was sufficiently offensive even when walking round the margin； and I
already felt some warning symptoms of the heavy atmosphere of
Famagousta； which might； if neglected； have terminated in ague。 I shot a
fine specimen of the glossy ibis； and I otherwise contented myself with
watching the variety of ducks； coots； teal； and other water…fowl through
my glass； as they enjoyed themselves in flocks upon the surface of the
lake at a great distance。
Having exhausted the sights of Famagousta； we started on the 22nd of
March for Kuklia； twelve miles distant； where we had left our vans in
charge of the headman during our absence in the Carpas country。 Upon our
arrival we found them untouched or unharmed； and we were met not only by
the headman himself； but by our two bullock…drivers Georgi and Theodori；
who had come from Lithrankomi。 Georgi had recovered from the despair
which had overpowered him when we last parted； and he was almost
triumphant when he related the success of his mission to Gallibornu with
the mysterious paper written in English； that I had given him in order
to terrify the purchaser of his bullock。 He had exhibited this
awe…inspiring epistle； which nobody could either read or understand； and
Georgi had taken advantage of his opportunity to threaten the sharp
cattle…dealer with a long list of imaginary punishments that would be
inflicted by English law should he refuse to return the bullock； which
had been hired for a special service by an Englishman。 The paper was
closely scrutinised； and being in an unknown character； Georgi felt his
advantage； and expounded the contents so forcibly that he worked upon
the fears of the inhabitants of Gallibornu； who insisted that the Turk
should compromise the affair and return the handsome bullock； receiving
in exchange his own half…starved old animal； in addition to a present
of half a sovereign。 Georgi was only too delighted to immediately clench
the bargain。 I advised him in future to manage his own cattle…dealing
instead of confiding in his able friend Theodori； and I ordered the oxen
to be put in the yokes at once； and to draw the vans to our old
camping…place beneath the hawthorn…tree。 Upon arrival at the spot a
great change had taken place； the hawthorns were a mass of blossom； and
scented the air for a considerable distance； the groves of fig…trees
had broken into leaf； the trefoil had grown to a height of two feet； and
numerous cattle were tethered in the rich field； to feed upon the few
square yards that each owner had purchased at a high price to save his
animals from starvation。 A field of broad…beans that we had left in
early blossom twenty…four days before now produced our well…known
vegetable for dinner； and I observed that the native children； with
their usual liking for uncooked food； were eating these indigestible
beans raw！
There had been no rain since our departure； and every crop that was not
irrigated was absolutely destroyed。 The aspect of the country was
pitiable； it should have been at this season a waving sea of green
barley and young wheat； but it was a withered desert with a few
patches of verdure like oases in a thirsty wilderness。 This terrible
calamity extended throughout the entire district or plain of Messaria；
and exhibited a sad example of the great necessity of Cyprus〃an
organised system of artificial irrigation。〃
We remained some days at Kuklia； during which I strengthened the
gipsy…van by lashing the frame…work with raw bull's…hide and securing
the blocks of the springs to the axles with the same material。 It is
worthy of note 〃that a fresh hide should never be used for lashing； but
a skin that has been already dried should be soaked for twenty…four
hours； and then cut into a strip as carefully and as long as the size
will permit。 When thus prepared； it should be re…soaked for four or five
hours； and used while wet as a lashing； drawn as tight as possible。 The
power of contraction is enormous； and when dry the skin becomes as hard
as wood； but a fresh hide has not the same contractive power； and will
stretch and become loose when subject to a severe strain。〃 It was a
great comfort to return to the luxury of the gipsy…van； which looked the
picture of neatness； the gorgeous Egyptian lantern had ceased to exist
as an object of value； as it had several times been upset and thrown
completely off its hook by the jumpings and bumpings