as an object of value； as it had several times been upset and thrown
completely off its hook by the jumpings and bumpings of the vehicle when
forcibly dragged over the steep banks and watercourses。 It was now
reduced to an 〃antique；〃 and looked as though it had been recovered from
the ruins of an ancient temple。
The post was kindly forwarded from Famagousta by the chief commissioner；
and we revelled in newspapers； which during our stay in the Carpas had
been a complete blank。 Our cook Christo had also received letters which
disconcerted him。 After dinner at about 8。30 P。M。 he suddenly appeared
at the tent door with a very large breakfast…cup in his hand。 〃I beg
your pardon； sir； but I'm sorry to say my mother has just fallen down
and broken her leg！〃 was his first announcement； and he continued； 〃she
is an old woman； past fifty； sir； and a broken leg is a very bad thing；
I have come to ask for some brandy； and I've brought a cup。〃
〃Your mother broken her leg； Christo？ Why； where is she？〃 I replied。
〃She is at Athens； sir； and I want a drop of brandy； as I have just
received the letter； and I am very anxious about her。〃
I now discovered that the brandy was not intended for his mother's leg；
but for his own stomach； to comfort his nerves and to allay his filial
anxiety。 He had a good dose that quickly restored his usual spirits； as
I heard him relating stories in the servants' tent which created roars
of laughter。
Christo was an excellent； hard…working fellow； who having passed his
life at sea； was exceedingly handy； and combined the usual good
qualities of a sailor with the art of cookery and a certain knowledge
which enabled him to act as interpreter。 He was as clever in lashing up
a van with raw hide as in preparing a dinner at the shortest notice； and
his mayonnaise would have raised the envy of many a professor in
England。 His English varied like his dishes； and upon certain days there
was a considerable vagueness in his language； while at other times he
expressed himself clearly。 Upon one of these foggy intervals I asked him
〃Why the people had made so much noise during the night？〃 and he
replied； that 〃A little hen…horse had made one child in the stable！〃 He
intended to explain that a pony had foaled in the stable。 When he first
joined us he frequently rambled and confused his genders； and termed all
females 〃hens；〃 which at times had almost as ludicrous an effect as the
mistakes of my African cook； who invariably called 〃cocks and hens〃
〃bulls and women。〃 I never had so useful a man in travelling； as he
excelled at tent pitching and arranging the luggage on pack…animals； and
took the lead in everything； in addition to which he showed a great
interest in interpreting； which is a rare quality in a dragoman。
We selected a road upon higher ground for our return to Lefkosia； and
thus avoided the watercourses which had caused so much vexation and
delay upon our former journey。 The first night's halt was at the long
stone bridge across the Pedias river； about twenty miles from Kuklia；
opposite the village of Kythrea at four miles distancethis was only
constructed eight years ago； and it was already rendered impassable by
the overflow of the torrent； which had carried away a considerable
portion。 On the following morning we arrived at the capital； and were
once more hospitably received by Sir Garnet and Lady Wolseley。
CHAPTER VII。
KYRENIA AND THE NORTH COAST。
The change from camp…life to the luxury of Government House； with the
charm of the society of Sir Garnet and Lady Wolseley and officers of the
staff； was a most agreeable interlude in the usually monotonous journey
through Cyprus。 The view from the verandah had changed； and was
certainly not charming； as the few green tints that had looked hopeful
on our former visit had turned to brown； but the house within more than
compensated for the cheerlessness of the exterior landscape。 A picnic
excursion to the castle of St。 Hilarion had been arranged for the 29th
instant by Colonel Greaves； C。 B。； chief of the staff； who kindly
included us in the invitation。 This point was seldom visited； as it was
situated 3240 feet above the sea upon the sky…line of the crags above
Kyrenia； and the ride there and back covered a distance of about thirty
miles from Lefkosia。 The energy of English ladies rather astonishes the
people of this country； where inertia is considered to be happiness； and
although our animals were ordered to be saddled punctually at 6 A。M。 the
owner in Lefkosia was sceptical as to our actual start at so early an
hour； therefore much time was lost on the morning in question in sending
messengers vainly to and fro for the missing mule and pony； and 8 A。M。
arrived before their appearance。 The party had started two hours
earlier。 Colonel White； 1st Royal Scots； who was the chief commissioner
at Lefkosia； had kindly waited to accompany us。 As St。 Hilarion was only
a short distance to the left of the Kyrenia road； I had determined not
to return； but to send the camels and luggage on direct。 We left all
unnecessary luggage locked up within the vans； which Sir Garnet Wolseley
kindly permitted us to leave at head…quarters。 We took leave of our good
and big friend Georgi and his sharp companion Theodori； who returned to
Dali； where Georgi would meet the only Venus that I have seen in Cyprus；
his wife； but even that pretty Venus was ruined by high boots and baggy
trousers。
Crossing the dry bed of the Pedias below the Government House； we struck
a line over the open and withered plain to a direct route to Kyrenia。 At
a distance of about five miles from Lefkosia； the broad and well…trodden
road became lost in a variety of independent paths； which at length
converged into one narrow route that ascended a curious formation of
water…washed and utterly denuded hills； composed of sandstone；
claystone； and peculiar deposits of sedimentary rock； which in places
resembled an artificial pavement。 In many places the strata were
vertical； exhibiting the confusion that had been created by the
upheaval。 Having passed through a succession of ups and downs for about
three miles； sometimes winding through narrow gorges where the soil was
covered with an efflorescence of salt； at other places clambering over
loose rocks and entering narrow glens； we arrived in a plain at the foot
of the bold and bluff range of the Carpas mountains。 The path led to a
village almost concealed amongst dwarf…cypress and pines； at a spot
where the ascent commenced to a deep gorge forming a gap between the
heights upon either side； through which the road was being rendered
accessible for wheeled conveyances to Kyrenia。
We had quitted the Messaria and its misery； thank Heaven； we once more
looked upon green trees； and magnificent cliffs of compact grey
limestone tinted with various colours according to the presence of
metallic substances； instead of wearying the eyes with the depressing
brown of a withered surface。 The road was improving under the hands of
several working parties； and the animals stepped along at a cheerful
pace。 On the left hand were exceedingly steep slopes； ascending for
several hundred yards to the base of cliffs； which rose in many places
almost perpendicular to the height of more than 2000 feet above the sea。
Upon our right we skirted a deep ravine； the bottom and sides of which
were completely covered with mastic shrubs； and myrtles。 Above this
gorge the cliffs rose in imposing grandeur to about 3000 feet； the
clefts being filled with evergreens； and in some unapproachable heights
which man had not invaded the Pinus maritima ornamented the grey crags
with its foliage of pale green。
We should have turned off to the left towards St。 Hilarion； but； without
a guide； we overshot the path； and having ridden about three miles
through the gorge； always ascending； we suddenly burst upon the
magnificent view of the northern side。 At this moment a few heavy drops
of rain fell from inky clouds which had been gathering among the
mountains； and I thought it advisable to forego the excursion to St。
Hilarion； and to push on towards Kyrenia； three miles distant； though
apparently almost at our feet。
The dark clouds above us added to the beauty of the scenery。 We looked
down upon the blue sea； and the snow…covered mountains of Caramania in
the northern distance； with the beautiful foreground of perpendicular
green cliffs upon our right； up to nearly 3000 feet； and the abrupt
mountain sides upon the left； which formed the entrance to the gorge。
The narrow strip of three miles between the sea margin and the point
upon which we stood was a green forest of caroub…trees； almost to the
water's edge。 The town； and its striking feature the Venetian fort；
stood out in clear relief against the background of the sea。 To the
right and left； farther than the eye could reach； were trees of caroubs；
varied by almonds； mulberries； and occasional date…palms； interspersed
with highly irrigated fields of emerald green。 The beautiful old
monastery of Bellapais； erected by the Templars； although in reality
half ruined； appeared from this distance like some noble ancestral
mansion； surrounded by all that could make a landscape perfect： trees；
water； mountains； precipices； above which towered the castle of
Buffavento upon the craggy sky…line； while to the left； cutting with
keen edges the dark cloud that hovered over it； were the walls and
towers of St。 Hilarion； where by this time we should have been eating
luncheon with a charming party。 Pit…pat came the heavy drops； and still
drinking in the magnificent view； we descended the stony and steep path
towards Kyrenia。 When we arrived near the base； after a descent of about
a mile and three…quarters； a perfectly straight road of a good width led
direct to Kyrenia； through a forest of the shady and ever green
caroub…trees。 By this time the shower had cleared away； and only a few
light clouds hovered over the high point of St。 Hilarion； and having had
nothing to eat； we began to wish for balloons to make a direct ascent to
the well…provided party on the heights above us； who were enjoying the
hospitality of Colonel Greaves。 We comforted