much had been expected； was almost unproductive。
The path still rose； until at length we arrived upon an extensive
plateau about 2400 feet above the sea。 The soil was chocolate…colour；
and the surface was covered with large stones of the sedimentary
limestone that surrounds the coast； and which forms the flat…topped
hills of the Messaria。 In many places the natives had built these into
walls around their fields； in order to clear the ground required for
cultivation。 We passed several villages； all squalid and miserable；
although the rich soil exhibited green crops far superior to anything we
had met with in the lower country。 Extensive gardens of mulberry
explained the silk…producing power of this neighbourhood； and almonds；
figs； apricots； &c。； throve in great numbers and luxuriance。 This
peculiarly fruitful plateau occupies an area of about eight miles from
north to south； and four from east to west。 We halted at the large
Turkish village of Arodes； from which we looked down upon the sea and
the small rocky island opposite Cape Drepano； on the western coast；
almost beneath our feet。 This portion of Cyprus is eminently adapted for
the cultivation of fruit…trees； as the climate and soil combine many
advantages。 The elevation and peculiar geographical position attract
moisture； while the lower ground upon the east is parched with drought。
The evaporation from the sea below condenses upon the cooler heights
immediately above and creates refreshing mists and light rain； which
accounted for the superiority of the crops compared with any that I had
seen elsewhere。 Shortly after halting at Arodes we experienced these
atmospherical changes。 The thermometer at Polis had been 57 degrees at 7
A。 M。； and it was only 56 degrees at 3 P。M。 at this altitude of 2400
feet。 Although the sky had been clear； mists began to ascend from the
chasms and gullies along the abrupt face of the mountain which overhung
the sea； these curled upwards and thickened； until a dense fog rolled
along the surface from the west and condensed into a light shower of
rain。 The Turkish inhabitants of the village were extremely civil； and
made no complaints of scarcity from drought； as they fully appreciated
the advantages of their locality。 The hawthorn…trees were only just
budding into bloom； while those in the low country had shed their
flowers； and had already formed the berries。 In future an extensive
growth of fruit may supply the market of Alexandria； but at present the
total absence of roads would render the transport of so perishable a
material upon the backs of mules impossible。 I had sent back our three
riding mules to meet and to relieve the camels； and by this precaution
the baggage animals arrived at a convenient hour。
The route to Baffo or Ktima； which is now the principal town； lay across
the plateau for about five miles to the verge which formed the
table…land； from which margin we looked down upon the deep vale below；
bounded by the sea at a few miles distance。
We dismounted and walked down the long and steep pass； the mules being
led behind。 The entire face of the perpendicular cliffs was cretaceous
limestone； but the scaly slopes of a hill upon our left； about a mile
and a half distant； formed a loose heap of shale； which had slipped；
either during earthquakes or heavy rains； in great masses to the bottom。
After a long and tedious descent we reached the base of the pass； and
halted in a broad river…bed full of rocks and stones of all sizes； which
had been rounded by the torrent of the rainy season。 There was no water
except in small pools that had been scraped in the sand for the benefit
of the travelling animals。 Having watered our mules and remounted； we
ascended the steep banks of the stream and continued towards the sea；
feeling a sensible difference in the temperature since we had descended
from the heights。
The country was exceedingly pretty； as it sloped gently downwards for
three or four miles； the surface ornamented with caroub…trees； until we
at length reached the sea…beach and crossed the sandy mouth of the
river's bed。 The crops of cereals were perished by drought in the
absence of irrigation； but upon continuing our route parallel with the
beach we observed an immediate improvement； as the water was conducted
by artificial channels to the various fields。 This arrangement had been
effected by erecting a temporary dam in the river's bed far among the
mountains； and thus leading the stream into the conduit for many miles。
Small brooks intersected our path along the coast； and in several places
I remarked the ruins of ancient aqueducts。 。 。 。 There was nothing of
peculiar interest upon this route； the land inclined upwards from the
sea for six or seven miles to the foot of the mountain range； all of
which was either cultivated with cereals or was covered with caroub…
trees and olives。 Many villages were dotted over the surface； these were
green with mulberry and various fruit…trees。 With the sea upon our
right； and the waves dashing briskly upon the rocky shore； the scene was
agreeable； but the sun was hot； and we were not sorry to see the distant
minarets of Ktima after a ride of seventeen miles from Arodes。
We passed the ruins of ancient Paphos upon our right； and shortly
afterwards ascended the rocky slope upon which the capital of the
district； Ktima； is situated。 It is a large town； and as we rode through
the bazaar the narrow street was almost blocked with huge piles of
oranges that had been imported from Jaffa； the season for the Cyprus
fruit being nearly over。
Iiani was exceedingly stupid in selecting camping…ground； therefore
upon arrival at a new place we invariably had to explore the
neighbourhood； like migratory birds landed upon strange shores。 We
accordingly rode through the considerable town of Ktima amidst the
barking and snapping of innumerable dogs； who attacked our British
spaniels； keeping up a running fight throughout the way； until we
emerged upon open country beyond the outskirts。
We were now once more upon a flat table…top； about a hundred feet above
the plain between us and the sea； a mile and a half distant。 The edge of
the table…land formed a cliff； choked from its base with huge fallen
blocks of sedimentary limestone； from the crevices of which trees grew
in great profusion； reminding one of hanging coverts upon hill…sides in
England。 Descending a steep but well…trodden path between these
cottage…like masses of disjointed rock； we arrived at the prettiest
camping…ground that I had seen in Cyprus。 This had formed the camp of
the Indian troops when the occupation had taken place in July； 1878； and
unfortunately in this charming spot they had suffered severely from
fever。
The sea and the town and port of Baffo lay before us； but immediately in
front of the rocky and tree…covered heights that we had descended were
great numbers of park…like trees which I had never before met with。
These were of large size； many exceeding fourteen feet in girth； with a
beautiful foliage that threw a dense shade beneath。 The name of this
tree is Tremithia； and it bears a small fruit in clusters of berries
which produce oil： this is used by the inhabitants for the same purposes
as that obtained from olives。 I had met with the bush in a wild state
for the first time at Lapithus； and had been attracted by the aromatic
scent of the young leaves； but I was not aware that it grew to the size
of a forest…tree。 Springs of pure water issued from the rocks in the
cliff…side within a few yards of our position； these were caught in
large reservoirs of masonry from twenty to thirty feet square and six
feet deep； from the bottom of which the water could be liberated for the
purposes of irrigation。 We selected a position upon a terrace beneath a
number of these splendid tremithias； which afforded a shade during all
hours of the day。 The little stream rippled just below； passing by the
roots of the trees that sheltered us； and watered a rich and dark green
plot of about two acres ofneither roses； nor violets； but something
far better； which at once delighted our cook Christoonions！ According
to his practical ideas the Garden of Eden would have been a mere
wilderness in the absence of a bed of onions； but at length we had
entered upon Paradise； this WAS a charming place！ For some distance
beyond this captivating plot the tremithias （which at a distance
resembled fine…headed oaks） ornamented the surface and gave a park…like
appearance to the country； but beyond them the plain was a gentle slope；
highly cultivated towards the sea。 Long before the arrival of our
baggage animals we had visitors； Captain Wauchope； the chief
commissioner of the district； and several officers in official
positions； were kind enough to call。 An old man and his wife； the
proprietors of the onions； who lived close by； brought us some
rush…bottomed chairs with much civility； and as the day wore on a long
string of visitors appeared； including the Bishop and some of the native
officials； and we were of course surrounded with the usual throng of
women and children： these were cleaner and better looking than those we
had hitherto encountered。
The camels did not appear until late in the evening； as they had
descended the steep pass from the table…land of Arodes with much
difficulty； and liani's 〃antique〃 had again fallen； repeatedly； and
necessitated a division of his load； which already had been reduced to
that of a donkey。
When the sun rose on the following morning I walked into Ktima by a good
path； that led through the rocks along the base of the cliff until it
ascended gradually to the town。 Although the cyclamens were past their
bloom； their variegated leaves ornamented the white stones as they
emerged like bouquets from the crevices of fallen rock。 There was little
of interest in the town； which hardly repaid a walk： it left the same
depressing feeling that I had so often experienced in our journey
through Cyprus： 〃The past had been great； and the present was nothing。〃
The little insignificant harbour exhibited a few small craft of about
twenty tons。 There was a small fort and a British flag； there were also
the ruins of