ups and downs； which reminded me forcibly of the coast of South Devon
between Torquay and Dawlish。 The difference lay in the rocks； which were
all plutonic； and in the scenery upon our left； which was a wild and
confused mass of mountains； scarred by deep and dark ravines； while the
more distant summits exhibited the still…existing pine…forests； these
had disappeared from the slopes which faced the coast； and had afforded
facilities for exportation。 We halted in a deep glen between exceedingly
steep hills； through which a torrent…bed had cut its course directly to
the sea。 In this secluded spot； far from all villages or inhabitants； we
arranged to encamp upon a flat and inviting plot of turf； which in
Cyprus is rarely met with。 Some tolerable elms and other trees formed a
dense shade in a deep and narrow portion of the glen beneath the
over…hanging cliffs； and a beautiful spring of water issued from the
rock； received in a stone cistern beneath。 An arch of masonry inclosed
the spring； which some kind person had thus carefully arranged for the
public good； this was richly clothed with maiden…hair ferns。 The surplus
water； after overflowing the stone basin； formed a faint stream； which
trickled over the rocks between cliffs only a few feet apart； until it
emerged from this narrow cleft and joined the sea。 I walked down this
natural alley to the beach and bathed； to the astonishment of my guide
Iiani and another Cypriote； who rushed to the top of the cliff as though
they thought I contemplated suicide； these people having a natural
horror of cold water。 The name of this secluded glen was Symboli。
On the following morning we started for Polis； fourteen miles by an easy
route along the coast。 The mountains upon our left were very
precipitous； and exhibited the same character of complete wilderness
which had marked them for the last two marches； the only difference
apparent was an increase in the remaining pines； which fairly clothed
their summits and ravines。 The sea was perfectly calm； and for the first
time during our stay in Cyprus we observed many shoals of fish playing
upon the surface close to the beach。 Two cormorants were in the bay； and
I made some fortunate shots； killing one with the rifle at upwards of
200 yards； and disabling the other at about 250。 There appeared to be
more signs of game in this part of the country； as the cock francolins
were crowing in many directions throughout our route； until we arrived
at Polis； or； in full； 〃Poli…ton…Krysokhus。〃
This place was formerly important as one of the principal mineral
centres of the island； and the large accumulations of scoriae in several
mounds near the coast prove that mining operations were conducted upon
an extensive scale。 A concession had recently been granted to a small
private company for the working of copper in this neighbourhood； and
should the existence of metallic wealth be proved there can be no doubt
that capital will be embarked in mining enterprises； and the locality
will recover its former importance。 On the other hand； all mining
adventures should be conducted with the greatest caution。 A common error
is committed by sanguine speculators in following the footsteps of the
ancients； upon the supposition that because in former ages a locality
was productive； it should remain in the same profitable condition。
Nothing can be more erroneous； it is generally poor gleaning after the
Phoenicians。 The bronze of those extraordinary miners and metallurgists
was renowned above all other qualities； they worked the copper…mines of
Cyprus and the tin…mines of Cornwall； but the expenses of working a mine
in those days bore no comparison with the outlay of modern times。 Slaves
were employed as a general rule： forced labour was obtainable； and the
general conditions of the labour…market were utterly at variance with
those of the present day。 The ancient miners would seldom have abandoned
their veins of ore until they were completely exhausted； and the vast
heaps of scoriae which now mark the sites of their operations may be the
remains of works that were deserted as worn out and unproductive。 It is
true that traces of copper are visible in many places throughout the
metamorphous rocks； and the greenstone from Soli to Poli…ton…Krysokhus；
but it remains to be proved whether the metal exists in sufficient
quantities to be profitably worked。 It is generally believed that zinc
was formerly produced at Soli； where vestiges of ancient mining
operations are to be seen upon the surface； but for many centuries the
works have been abandoned。
A very careful scientific examination of the island has been made by
various explorersM。 Gaudry； Unger； and Kotschy： their reports are not
encouraging； but at the same time it must be allowed that they were not
practical miners。 The work of M。 Gaudry must always be accepted as a
most valuable authority upon the geology； mineralogy； and general
agricultural resources of Cyprus； but it will be remarked by all
practical men that the explorations of the country have been
superficial； no money has been expended； and is it to be supposed that
the surface of the earth will spontaneously reveal the secrets of the
interior？
Under the present administration it is quite impossible to say too much
in praise of the energy and painstaking devotion to the interests of
Great Britain and to those of this island by the High Commissioner and
every officer； from the commissioners of districts to the subordinate
officials； but according to the terms of the Convention with the Porte
the island is as completely denuded of money as the summits of the
cretaceous hills have been denuded of soil by the destructive agency of
weather。 It is painful to an English traveller； whose life may have been
passed in practical development； to survey the country as it now is； to
reflect upon what it has been； and to see that even under the auspicious
reputation of an English occupation nothing can be done to awaken
resources that have so long lain dormant。 Money is wantedmoney must
be had。 Without an expenditure of capital； riches may exist； but they
will remain buried in obscurity。
A responsible official would reply〃We will give you a concession； we
will give you every possible encouragement。〃 The capitalist will ask one
simple question； 〃Is Cyprus a portion of the British Empire upon which I
can depend； or is it a swallow's nest of a political season； to be
abandoned when the party…schemes have flown？〃
Any number of questions may be asked at the present moment； but in the
absence of all definite information no capitalist will embark in any
enterprise in Cyprus； which may be ultimately abandoned like Corfu； and
the value of all property would be reduced to a ruinous degree。
The mining interests of Cyprus must remain for the most part undeveloped
until some satisfactory change shall be effected in the tenure of the
island that will establish confidence。
Polis was a straggling place situated upon either side of a river；
through the bed of which a very reduced stream was flowing about three
inches in depth。 A flat valley lay between the heights； both of which
were occupied by numerous houses and narrow lanes； while the rich soil
of the low ground； irrigated by the water of the river withdrawn by
artificial channels； exhibited splendid crops of wheat and barley。
Groves of very ancient olive…trees existed in the valley； and we halted
beneath the first oak…trees that I had seen in Cyprus。 These were wide…
spreading； although not high； and I measured the girth of one solid
stemeighteen feet。
We had hardly off…saddled； when crowds of women and children collected
from all quarters； with a few men； to stare at the new…comers； not at ME
personally； but at my wife。 They were； if possible； more filthy than the
average of Cyprian women； and a great proportion of the children were
marked with recent attacks of small…pox。 I regretted that I had not a
supply of crackers to throw amongst and disperse the crowd that daily
pestered us； any lady that in future may travel through Cyprus should
have a portmanteau full of such simple fireworks。 It was in vain to
explain that the people were a nuisance if too near： when driven to a
moderate distance； they would advance shyly； by degrees； two or three
children would come forward and sit down a few paces in front of the
main body； after a few minutes several others would overstep this
frontier and sit down five or six yards in advance of the last comers；
and by this silent system of skirmishing we were always surrounded in
twenty minutes after the original crowd had been dispersed。 I did not
mind them so long as they were not in personal contact； and were free
from recent small…pox； but some of the red…pitted faces were full of
warning。
There was nothing of interest to detain us at Polis； and we started
early upon the 19th April towards Baffo。 The valley through which the
river Aspropotamo had deposited a layer of fertile alluvium divided the
mountain range； leaving the plutonic rocks to the east； and on the
western side we ascended a steep path over cretaceous limestone； broken
and disturbed at intervals by the protrusion of eruptive rocks。 As we
increased our altitude we looked down upon a picturesque view of the bay
of Krysokhus； with two sails upon its blue waters beneath the dark
cliffs of the western shore。 The ancient Marium or Arsinoe showed no
vestiges except in the modern village of Polis； which； from the
distance； looked better than the reality； as the foliage of numerous
trees shadowing the terrace…built houses upon either side the rich green
valley； backed by the lofty range of pine…covered mountains； completed a
lovely landscape。
An hour had passed； but still we ascended； the path was as usual rugged；
and we already looked down upon the sea and valley at least 2000 feet
beneath。 I had serious misgivings concerning the camels and their loads。
General di Cesnola had examined the whole of this country in his search
for antiquities； but the neighbourhood of the ancient Arsinoe； where
much had been expected； was almost unproductive。
The path still rose； until at length we arrived upon an exte