from the gipsies in England； and it had been specially arranged for the
Cyprus journey by Messrs。 Glover Bros。 of Dean Street； Soho； London。 It
had been painted and varnished with many coats both inside and out； and
nobody； unless an experienced gipsy； would have known that it was not
newly born from the maker's yard。 Originally it had been constructed for
shafts； as one horse was considered sufficient upon the roads of
England； but when it arrived in Cyprus it appeared to have grown during
the voyage about two sizes larger than when it was last seen。 As the
small animals of Larnaca passed by； where my lovely van blocked up the
entire street； and forced the little creatures upon the footpath； they
looked in comparison as though they had just been disembarked upon Mount
Ararat from the original Noah's ark； represented by the gipsy…van！ The
Cypriotes are polite； therefore I heard no rude remarks。 The Cypriote
boys are like all other boys； therefore they climbed to the top of the
van； and endeavoured by escalade to enter the windows。 On one occasion I
captured HALF A BOY （the posterior half） who was hanging with legs
dangling out of the window； his 〃forlorn…hope〃 or advance half vainly
endeavouring to obtain a resting…place upon vacuity within （as the fall
slab…table was down）。 I had no stick； but the toes of his boots had
imprinted first impressions upon the faultless varnish。 What became of
that young Cypriote was never known。
Even in Cyprus there are municipal laws； and now that the English are
there they are enforced； therefore my huge van could not remain like a
wad in a gun…barrel； and entirely block the street。 A London policeman
would have desired it to 〃move on〃 butthis was the real grievance
that I had against Larnacathe van COULD NOT 〃MOVE ON；〃 owing to its
extreme height； which interfered with the wooden water…spouts from the
low roofs of the flat…topped houses。 This was a case of 〃real distress。〃
My van represented civilisation： the water…spouts represented barbarism。
If a London omnibus crowded with outside passengers had attempted to
drive through Larnaca； both driver and passengers would have been swept
into I have not the slightest notion where； and my van was two feet
higher than an omnibus！
I determined that I would avoid all inferior thoroughfares； and that the
van should pass down Wolseley Street； drawn by a number of men who would
be superior in intelligence to the Cypriote mules and be careful in
turning the corners。
I did not see the start； as a person with an 〃excess of zeal〃 had
started it with a crowd of madmen without orders； and I was only a late
spectator some hours after its arrival opposite Craddock's Hotel。 It
rather resembled a ship that had been in bad weather and in collision
with a few steamers。 How many water…spouts it had carried away I never
heard。 The fore…axle was broken； as it appeared that in rounding a
corner it had been dragged by main force upon the curbstone about
sixteen inches high； from which it had bumped violently down。 It had
then been backed against a water…spout； which had gone completely
through what sailors would term the 〃stern。〃 One shutter was split in
two pieces； and one window smashed。 Altogether； what with bruises；
scratches； broken axle； and other damages； my van looked ten years older
since the morning。
Fortunately among the Europeans who had flocked to Cyprus since the
British occupation was a French blacksmith； whose forge was only a few
yards from Craddock's Hotel； where my wrecked vessel blocked the way。 I
had a new fore axle…tree made； and strengthened the hinder axle。 I also
fitted a bullock…pole； instead of shafts； for a pair of oxen； the
springs I bound up with iron wire shrunk on while red…hot。 I took out
the stove； as it was not necessary； and its absence increased the space；
and I inserted a ventilator in the roof in place of the chimney。 When
repaired； the van looked as good as new； and was much stronger； and well
adapted for rough travel。 The only thing it now wanted was a ROAD！
The highways of Cyprus were mere mule…tracks。 The only legitimate road
in existence was of most recent construction； which represented the new
birth of British enterprise； from Larnaca to the capital； Nicosia （or
Lefkosia）； about twenty…eight miles。 The regrettable paucity of
stone…hammers rendered it impossible to prepare the metal； therefore
huge rounded blocks； bigger than a man's head； had been thrown down for
a foundation； upon which some roughly broken and a quantity of unbroken
smaller stones had been spread。
Of course there was only one method of travelling upon this route with
the gipsy…van： this was to avoid it altogether； but to keep upon the
natural soil on the side of the newly…made level。
My second van was most satisfactory； and was light in proportion to its
strength and capacity。 This was arranged specially for luggage； and was
entirely closed by doors at either end； which were secured by bolts and
locks。 Above the luggage； and about two feet six inches below the roof；
a sliding deck formed of movable planks afforded a comfortable
sleeping…berth for a servant。 In the front a projecting roof sheltered
the driving seat； which was wide enough to accommodate four persons。 I
had fitted a pole instead of shafts； as public opinion decided against
mules； and it was agreed that oxen were steadier and more powerful for
draught purposes。 After a careful selection； I obtained two pairs of
very beautiful animals； quite equal in size to ordinary English oxen；
for which I paid twelve shillings per diem； including the drivers and
all expenses of fodder。 I also engaged the necessary riding mules； as
the vans were not intended for personal travelling； but merely for
luggage and for a home at night。 Our servants consisted of Amarn （my
Abyssinian； who had been with me eight years； since he was a a boy of
nine years old in Africa）； a Greek cook named Christo； who had served in
a similar capacity upon numerous steamers； and a young man named Georgi；
of about twenty…one； who was to be made into a servant。 This young
fellow had appeared one day suddenly； and solicited employment； while we
were staying at Craddock's Hotel； he was short； thickset； and possessed
a head of hair that would have raised the envy of Absalom： in dense
tangle it would have defied a mane…comb。 Georgi had a pleasant
expression of countenance which did not harmonise with his exterior； as
his clothes were in a ragged and filthy condition； his shoes were in
tatters； and trodden down at the heel to a degree that resembled boats
in the act of capsizing； these exposed the remnants of socks； through
the gaps of which the skin of his feet was exhibited in anything but
flesh…colour。 It is dangerous to pick up a 〃waif and stray；〃 as such
objects of philanthropy frequently disappear at the same time as the
forks and spoons。 In reply to my questions； I discovered that Georgi was
in fact the 〃prodigal son；〃 he had not been leading the fast life of
that historical character； but he had left his home in Mersine （on the
coast of Asia Minor） owing to an unfortunate disagreement with his
father。 In such domestic estrangements； rightly or wrongly； the fathers
generally have the best of the situation； and Georgi； having left a
comfortable home （his father being what is called 〃well to do〃）； had
taken ship； and； like many others； had steered for Cyprus； where he
arrived unknown； and quickly experienced the desolation of an utter
stranger in a foreign town。 Georgi became hungry； whether he had sold
his good clothes to provide for the coats of his stomach I cannot say；
but the rags in which he first appeared to me were utterly unsaleable；
and few people would have ventured upon an engagement with so
disreputable a person。 However； I liked his face； he could speak Turkish
and Arabic fluently： Greek was his mother…tongue； and he had a
smattering of French。 I sent for the tailor； and had him measured for a
suit of clothes to match those of Amarna tunic； waistcoat；
knickerbockers； and gaiters of navy…blue serge。 In a few days Georgi was
transformed into a respectable…looking servant； with his hair cut。
We left Larnaca on the 29th of January。 A native two…wheeled cart
conveyed the tents and superabundant baggage。 The oxen made no
difficulty； and the gipsy…van rolled easily along。 An enterprising
photographer； having posted himself in a certain position near the
highway； suddenly stopped our party； and subsequently produced a
facsimile； although my dogs； who were in movement； came out with
phantom…like shadows。 These useful companions were three spaniels
〃Merry；〃 〃Wise；〃 and 〃Shot；〃 the latter had a broken foreleg through
an accident in the previous year； but he was an excellent retriever； and
could work slowly。 The others were younger dogs； whose characters were
well represented by their names； the first was an untiring； determined
animal； and Wise was a steady hunter that would face the worst thorns；
and was a good retriever。
This party was now in movement； and I intended to make a preliminary
detour from the Nicosia route to visit the springs of Arpera； about
eight miles distant； which supply the town of Larnaca。
In every country where I have travelled I have observed a human weakness
among the population on the question of 〃game；〃 there is a universal
tendency to exaggeration； but the locality of superabundance is always
distant from the narrator。 As you proceed the game recedes； and you are
informed that 〃at about two days' march you will find even more than you
require。〃 Upon arrival at the wished…for spot you are told that
〃formerly there was a large quantity； but that times and seasons have
changed； that about three marches in your front will bring you to a
hunter's paradise；〃 &c。 As Cyprus was an island of only 140 miles in
length； there would be a limit to these boundless descriptions； but I
had already heard enough to assure me that the usual want of veracity
upon this subject was present in the accounts I had received。 The
newspaper correspondents had just contributed ridiculous reports to
their several employers。 Because the market of Larnaca was well supplied
with woodcocks； re