town。 In ancient days the shallow harbour of Cittium existed on the east
side of modern Larnaca； whether from a silting of the port； or from the
gradual alteration in the level of the Mediterranean； the old harbour no
longer exists； but is converted into a miserable swamp； bordered by a
raised beach of shingles upon the seaboard。 The earth has been swept
down by the rains； and the sand driven in by the sea； while man stood
idly by； allowing Nature to destroy a former industry。 All the original
harbours of the country have suffered from the same neglect。
There was little to be seen in the neighbourhood。 The site was pointed
out where the troops were encamped in the tremendous heat of July in the
close vicinity of the swampy ground； upon pestiferous soil； and the
usual tales of commissariat blunders were recounted。 Close to the
borders of this unhealthy spot； but about twenty feet above the level of
the lowest morass； stands the convent belonging to the Sisters of
Charity； which includes a school； in addition to a hospital。 Great
kindness was shown by these excellent ladies to many English sufferers；
and their establishment deserves a liberal support from public
contributions。
I walked through the bazaar of Larnaca； this is situated at the west end
of the town near the fort； close to which there is a public fountain
supplied by the aqueduct to which I have already alluded。 Brass taps
were arranged around the covered stone reservoir； but I remarked a
distressing waste of water； as a continual flow escaped from an
uncontrolled shoot which poured in a large volume uselessly into the
street。 Within a few yards of the reservoir was a solitary old banian
tree （ficus religiosa）； around which a crowd of donkeys waited； laden
with panniers containing large earthen jars； which in their turn were to
be filled with the pure water of the Arpera springs。
Although the crowd was large； and all were busied in filling their jars
and loading their respective animals； there was no jostling or
quarrelling for precedence； but every individual was a pattern of
patience and good humour。 Mohammedans and Cypriotes thronged together in
the same employment； and the orderly behaviour in the absence of police
supervision formed a strong contrast to the crowds in England。
The Mosque being within a few feet of them； the Mussulmans could perform
their ablutions at the threshold。 Around the font； women were
intermingled with a crowd of men and boys。 The girls and lads were
regular in features and good…looking； though dirt and torn clothing of
various gaudy colours gave a picturesque； but hardly an attractive；
appearance to the group。 The bazaar was entered at right angles with the
quay； the streets were paved with stones of irregular size； sloping from
both sides towards the centre； which formed the gutter。 Camels； mules；
bullock…carts； and the omnipresent donkeys thronged the narrow streets；
either laden with produce for the quay； or returning after having
delivered their heavy loads。 The donkeys were very large and were mostly
dark brown； with considerable length of hair。 In like manner with the
camels； they were carefully protected by thick and well stuffed packs；
or saddles； and were accordingly free from sores。 They appeared to be
exceedingly docile and intelligent； and did not require the incessant
belabouring to which the ass of other countries is the victim。 Large
droves of these animals； each laden with three heavy squared stones for
building； picked their way through the narrow streets； and seemed to
know exactly the space required for their panniers； as they never
collided with either carts or passengers。
The shops of the bazaar were all open； and contained the supplies
usually seen in Turkish marketsvegetables； meat； and a predominance of
native sweets and confectionery； in addition to stores of groceries； and
of copper and brass utensils。 An absence of fish proved the general
indolence of the people； there is abundance in the sea； but there are
few fishermen。
An hour's stroll was quite sufficient for one to form an opinion of
Larnaca。 A good roadstead and safe anchorage offer great advantages； but
until some protection shall be afforded that will enable boats to land
in all weathers Larnaca can never be accepted as a port。 There is shoal
water for a distance of about two hundred yards from the shore； which
causes a violent surf even in a moderate breeze； and frequently prevents
all communication with the shipping。 The quay was in many places
undermined by the action of the waves； and it would be necessary to
create an entirely new front by sinking a foundation for a sea…wall some
yards in advance of the present face。 There would be no engineering
difficulty in the formation of a boat…harbour； to combine by extensive
pile…jetties the facility of landing in all weathers。 A very cursory
view of Larnaca exhibited a true picture of its miserable financial
position。 The numerous stores kept by Europeans were the result of a
spasmodic impulse。 There was no wholesome trade； those who represented
the commercial element were for the most part unfortunates who had
rushed to Cyprus at the first intelligence of the British occupation；
strong in expectations of a golden harvest。 The sudden withdrawal of the
large military force left Larnaca in the condition of streets full of
sellers； but denuded of buyers。 The stores were supplied with the usual
amount of liquors； and tins of preserved provisions； none of the
imported articles were adapted for native requirements； an utter
stagnation of trade was the consequence； and prices fell below the cost
of home production。 The preceding year had been exceptionally sickly；
many of the storekeepers were suffering from the effects of fever；
which； combined with the depression of spirits caused by ruined
prospects； produced a condition of total collapse； from which there was
only one reliefthat of writing to the newspapers and abusing the
Government and the island generally。
There must always be martyrssomebody must be sacrificedwhether burnt
at the stake for religious principles； or put in a bell…tent in the sun
with the thermometer at 110 degrees Fahr。 simply because they are
British soldiersit does not much matterbut the moment your merchants
are slain upon the altar； the boiling…point is reached。
The store…keepers sat despondingly behind their counters while the
hinges of their doors rusted from the absence of in…comers。 It was
impossible to rouse them from their state of mercantile coma； except by
one word； which had a magnetic effect upon their nervous
system…〃Custom House。〃
〃I suppose you have no difficulty at the Custom House； Mr。in this
simple island？〃 This was invariably the red rag to the bull。
〃No difficulty； Sir！no difficulty？it is THE difficultywe are
absolutely paralysed by the Custom House。 Every box is broken open and
the contents strewed upon the ground。 The duty is ad valorem upon all
articles； and an ignorant Turk is the valuer。 This man does not know the
difference between a bootjack and a lemon…squeezer： only the other day
he valued wire dish…covers as ‘articles of head…dress；' （probably he had
seen wire fencing…masks）。 If he is perplexed； he is obliged to refer the
questionable article to the Chief Office；this is two hundred yards
from the landing place：thus he passes half the day in running
backwards and forwards with trifles of contested value to his superior；
while crowds are kept waiting； and the store is piled with goods most
urgently required。〃 。 。 。
I immediately went to see this eccentric representative of Anglo…Turkish
political…and…mercantile…combination； and found very little
exaggeration in the description； except that the distance was 187 paces
instead of 200 which he had to perform； whenever the character of the
article was beyond the sphere of his experience。 As this happened about
every quarter of an hour； he could not complain of a sedentary
employment。 A few days after this； migratory birds arrived in Cyprus
upon the inhospitable shore opposite the Custom House in the shape of
two Liberal M。P's。 from England；who visited the island specially to
form an honest opinion free from all political bias。 Whether these
gentlemen were undervalued by the eccentric official to whom I have
alluded； or whether he suspected Liberals as opponents to be regarded
and treated as spies； we never could determine； but utterly disregarding
their innocent exterior； he subjected them to the extreme torture of the
Custom House； and dived and plunged into the very bowels and bottoms of
their numerous small packages； rumpling clean linen； and producing a
toilettic chaos。 To the honour of these members of the Opposition they
never brought the question before the House upon their return to
England； neither did they make it the foundation of an attack upon the
Government。
An excess of zeal is not uncommon among ignorant officials newly raised
to a position of authority： thus Larnaca was outdone by the Custom House
representative at Limasol in vigilance and strict attention to the
administrative tortures of his office。 I have heard of cases of crockery
being unpacked upon the beach and spread out to be counted and valued
upon the loose stones of shingle！
The unfortunate European traders of Larnaca were shortly relieved of
their Custom House troubles by the total absence of imports。 The native
Cypriote does not purchase at European shops； his wants are few； the
smallest piece of soap will last an indefinite period； he is frugal to
an extreme degree； and if he has desires； he curbs such temptations and
hoards his coin。 Thus； as the natives did not purchase； and all
Europeans were sellers without buyers； there was no alternative but to
shut the shutters。 This was a species of commercial suicide which made
Larnaca a place of departed spirits； in which unhappy state it remains
to the present hour。 Even the club was closed。
CHAPTER II。
THE GIPSY…VANS ENCOUNTER DIFFICULTIES。
My gipsy…van was not of doubtful character。 I had purchased it direct
from the gipsies in England； and it had been specially arranged for the
Cyprus journey by Messrs。 Glover Bros。 of