the swollen； blackened limb were being treated with musk and tiger's
fat。 A man with gangrened feet； nearly dropping off； had them rolled up
in dark…colored paste； of which musk and oil were two ingredients。 All
the wounds were deplorably dirty； and no process of cleaning them
exists in this system of surgery。
The Governor and Bishop were not allowed to go into the women's ward。
It looked very clean and comfortable； but a woman in the last
death…agony was unattended。 They never bleed； or leech； or blister； or
apply any counter…irritants in cases of inflammation。 They give
powdered rhinoceros' horns； sun…dried tiger's blood； powdered tiger's
liver； spiders' eyes； and many other queer things； and for a tonic and
febrifuge； where we should use quinine； they rely mainly on the ginseng
（Panax quinquefolia？） of which I saw so much in Japan。 They judge much
by the pulse and tongue。 The mortality in this hospital is very large；
not only from the nature of the treatment； but because Chinamen who
have no friends in Victoria go there when they are dying； in order to
secure that their bodies shall be sent to their relations at a
distance。 There were fifteen sick and shipwrecked junkmen there；
covered with sores； who looked very far down in the scale of humanity。
After going through the wards I went into the laboratory； where six men
were engaged in preparing drugs； then to the 〃chemical kitchen；〃 where
a hundred and fifty earthen pipkins on a hundred and fifty earthen
furnaces were being used in cooking medicines under the superintendence
of eight cooks in spotless white clothing； then to the kitchen； which
is large and clean； then alone into the dead…house； which no Chinese
will enter except an unclean class of pariahs； who perform the last
offices for the departed and dress the corpses for burial。 This gloomy
receptacle is also clean。
Great attention is paid to cleanliness and ventilation。 Dry earth is
used as a deodorizer； but if there be a bad odor they burn sandalwood。
They don't adopt any disinfectants； indeed； they don't appear to know
their use。 The patients all lie with their backs to the light； and
there is a space five feet wide between the beds and the windows。 All
the windows were open both at the top and bottom； so as to create a
complete current of air； and the airiness and freedom from smells and
closeness were quite remarkable； considering the state in which the
wounds are； which is worse than I dare attempt to describe。 The
hospital is conducted on strictly 〃temperance principles；〃 i。e。； no
alcoholic stimulants are given； which is not remarkable； considering
how little comparatively they are used in China； and with what
moderation on the whole by those who use them。 There were seventy…five
patients in the wards yesterday； and the cases were mostly either
serious originally； or have been made so by the treatment。 There are
one hundred and twenty beds。 There is much to admire in this hospital；
the humane arrangements； the obvious comfort of the patients； and the
admirable ventilation and perfect cleanliness of the beds and wards；
but the system adopted is one of the most antiquated quackery； and when
I think of the unspeakably horrible state of the wounds； the mortifying
limbs； and the gangrened feet ready to drop off； I almost question
Governor Hennessey's wisdom in stamping the hospital with his approval
on his 〃State Visit。〃
The Governor and I were received in the boardroom after our two hours'
inspection； where we were joined by Mrs。 Hennessey； and entertained by
the directors at what might be called 〃afternoon tea。〃 But when is the
Chinaman not drinking tea？ A monstrous plateau of the preserved and
candied fruits； in the making of which the Chinese ladies excel； had
been placed upon the ebony table； and when we were seated in the
stately ebony chairs on the chairman's right； with the yellow；
shining…faced； wadded or corpulent directors opposite to us； excellent
tea with an unusual flavor was brought in； and served in cups of
antique green dragon china。 The Governor made kindly remarks on the
hospital； which fluent Mr。 Ng Choy doubtless rendered into the most
fulsome flattery； the chairman complimented the Governor； and unlimited
〃soft sawder；〃 in Oriental fashion； passed all round。
It is proper in China on such an occasion to raise the tea…cup with
both the hands to a good height and bow to each person； naming at the
same time the character so continually seen on tea…cups and sake
bottlesHappiness；which is understood to be a wish for happiness in
this formula； 〃May your happiness be as the Eastern Sea；〃 but the wish
may also mean 〃May you have many sons。〃 It is strange that these
Chinamen； who showed all fitting courtesy to Mrs。 Hennessey and me；
would only have spoken of their wives apologetically as 〃the mean ones
within the gates！〃 It was a charming Oriental sight； the grand； open…
fronted room with its stone floor and many pillars； the superbly
dressed directors and their blue…robed attendants； and the immense
costumed crowd outside the gate in the sunshine； kept back by
crimson…turbaned Sikh orderlies。
If civilization were to my taste； I should linger in Victoria for the
sake of its beauty； its stirring life； its costume and color； its
perfect winter climate； its hospitalities； its many charming residents；
and for various other reasons； and know nothing of its feuds in state；
church； and society。 But I am a savage at heart； and weary for the
wilds first； and then for the beloved little home on the wooded edge of
the moorland above the Northern Sea； which gleams like a guiding star；
even through the maze of sunshine and color of this fascinating Eastern
world。 to…day I lunched at （acting） Chief Justice Snowden's； and he
urges me to go to Malacca on my way home。 I had never dreamed of the
〃Golden Chersonese；〃 but I am much inspired by his descriptions of the
neighborhood of the Equator； and as he has lent me Newbold's Malacca
for the voyage； and has given me letters to the Governor and Colonial
Secretary of the Straits Settlements； you will next hear from me from
Singapore！
I。 L。 B。
LETTER VI
A Cochin China RiverThe Ambition of SaigonA French Colonial
MetropolisEuropean Life in Saigon…A Cochin…Chinese
Village〃Afternoon Tea〃 in ChoquanAnamese ChildrenAnamite
CostumeAnamite River…DwellingsAn Amphibious PopulationAn
Unsuccessful Colony〃With the Big Toe〃Three Persecuting
KingsSaigon
S。S。 〃SINDH；〃 CHINA SEA； January。
This steamer； one of the finest of the Messageries Maritimes line； is
perfect in all respects； and has a deck like that of an old…fashioned
frigate。 The weather has been perfect also； and the sea smooth enough
for a skiff。 The heat increases hourly though； or rather has increased
hourly； for hotter it cannot be！ Punkahs are going continually at meal
times； and if one sits down to write in the saloon； the 〃punkah…wallah〃
spies one out and begins his refreshing labors at once。 But we took on
board a host of mosquitoes at Saigon； and the nights are consequently
so intolerable that I weary for the day。
The twenty…four hours spent at Saigon broke the monotonous pleasantness
of our voyage very agreeably to me； but most of the passengers complain
of the wearisome detention in the heat。 In truth； the mercury stood at
92 degrees！
At daybreak yesterday we were steaming up a branch of the great Me…kong
river in Cochin China； a muddy stream； densely fringed by the nipah
palm； whose dark green fronds； ten and twelve feet long； look as if
they grew out of the ground； so dumpy is its stem。 The country； as
overlooked from our lofty deck； appeared a dead level of rice and
scrubby jungle intermixed； a vast alluvial plain； from which the heavy；
fever…breeding mists were rising in rosy folds。 Every now and then we
passed a Cochin Chinese villagea collection of very draughty…looking
wooden huts； roofed with palm leaves； built over the river on gridiron
platforms supported on piles。 Each dwelling of the cluster had its boat
tethered below it。 It looked a queer amphibious life。 Men were lying on
the gridirons smoking； women were preparing what might be the
breakfast； and babies were crawling over the open floors； born with the
instinct not to tumble over the edge into the river below。 These
natives were small and dark； although of the Mongolian type； with wide
mouths and high cheek bonesan ugly race； and their attitudes； their
tumble…to…pieces houses； and their general forlornness； gave me the
impression that they are an indolent race as well； to be ousted in time
possibly by the vigorous and industrious Chinaman。
After proceeding for about forty miles up this mighty Me…kong or
Cambodia river； wearying somewhat of its nipah…fringed alluvial flats；
and of the monotonous domestic economy of which we had so good a view；
we reached Saigon； which has the wild ambition to propose to itself to
be a second Singapore！ All my attempts to learn anything about Saigon
on board have utterly failed。 People think that they told me something
altogether new and sufficient when they said that it is a port of call
for the French mail steamers； and one of the hottest places in the
world！ This much I knew before I asked them！ If they know anything more
now； no dexterity of mine can elicit it。 There was a general stampede
ashore as soon as we moored； and gharriescovered spring cartsdrawn
by active little Sumatra ponies； and driven by natives of Southern
India； known as Klings； were immediately requisitioned； but nothing
came of it apparently； and when I came back at sunset I found that；
after an hour or two of apparently purposeless wanderings； all my
fellow…passengers had returned to the ship； pale and depressed。 True；
the mercury was above 90 degrees！
Arriving in this condition of most unblissful ignorance； I was
astonished when a turn in the river brought us close upon a
considerable town； straggling over a great extent of ground；
interspersed with abundant tropical greenery； its river front
consisting of a long； low line of much…shaded cafes； mercantile
offices； some of them flying consular flags and Government offices；
behind which lies the city with its streets； shops； a