offices； some of them flying consular flags and Government offices；
behind which lies the city with its streets； shops； and great covered
markets or bazaars； and its barracks； churches； and convents。
The Me…kong； though tortuous and ofttimes narrow； is navigable as the
Donnai or Saigon branch up to and above Saigon for vessels of the
largest tonnage； and the great Sindh steamed up to a wharf and moored
alongside it； almost under the shade of great trees。 A French
three…decker of the old type； moored higher up； serves as an hospital。
There were two French ironclads； a few steamers； and some big sailing
ships at anchor； but nothing looked busy； and the people on the wharf
were all loafers。
After all my fellow…passengers had driven off I stepped ashore and
tried to realize that I was in Cochin China or Cambodia； but it would
not do。 The irrepressible Chinaman in his loose cotton trousers was as
much at home as in Canton； and was doing all the work that was done；
the shady lounges in front of the cafes were full of Frenchmen；
Spaniards； and Germans； smoking and dozing with their feet upon tables
or on aught else which raised them to the level of their heads； while
men in linen suits and pith helmets dashed about in buggies and
gharries； and French officers and soldiers lounged weariedly along all
the roads。 There was not a native to be seen！ A little later there was
not a European to be seen！ There was a universal siesta behind closed
jalousies； and Saigon was abandoned to Chinamen and leggy dogs。 Then
came the cool of the afternoon； i。e。； the mercury； with evident
reluctance； dawdled down to 84 degrees； military bands performed； the
Europeans emerged； smoking as in the morning； to play billiards or
ecarte； or sip absinthe at their cafes； then came the mosquitoes and
dinner； after which I was told that card…parties were made up； and that
the residents played till near midnight。 Thus from observation and
hearsay； I gathered that the life of a European Saigonese was made up
of business in baju and pyjamas with cheroot in mouth from 6 to 9：30
A。M。； then the bath； the toilette； and the breakfast of claret and
curry； next the sleeping； smoking； and lounging till tiffin； after
tiffin a little more work； then the band； billiards； ecarte； absinthe；
smoking； dinner； and card…parties； varied by official entertainments。
Rejecting a guide； I walked about Saigon； saw its streets； cafes； fruit
markets； bazaars； barracks； a botanic or acclimatization garden； of
which tigers were the chief feature； got out upon the wide； level
roads； bordered with large trees； which run out into the country for
miles in perfectly straight lines； saw the handsome bungalows of the
residents； who surround themselves with many of the luxuries of Paris；
went over a beautiful convent； where the sisters who educate native
girl children received me with kindly courtesy； and eventually driving
in a gharrie far beyond the town； and then dismissing it； I got into a
labyrinth of lanes； each with a high hedge of cactus； and without
knowing it found that I was in a native village； Choquan； a village in
which every house seems to be surrounded and hidden by high walls of a
most malevolent and obnoxious cactus； so as to insure absolute privacy
to its proprietor。 Each dwelling is under the shade of pommeloe；
orange； and bamboo。 By dint of much peeping； and many pricks which have
since inflamed； I saw that the poorer houses were built of unplaned
planks or split bamboo； thatched with palm leaves； with deep verandas；
furnished with broad matted benches with curious； round bamboo pillows。
On these men； scarcely to be called clothed； were lying； smoking or
chewing the betel…nut； and all had teapots in covered baskets within
convenient reach。 The better houses are built of an ornamental
framework of carved wood； the floor of which is raised about three feet
from the ground on brick pillars。 The roofs of these are rather steep；
and are mostly tiled； and have deep eaves； but do not as elsewhere form
the cover of the veranda。 While I was looking through the cactus
screen of one of these houses； a man came out with a number of low
caste； leggy； flop…eared； mangy dogs； who attacked me in a cowardly
bullying fashion； yelping； barking； and making surreptitious snaps at
my feet。 Their owner called them off； however； and pelted them so
successfully that some ran away whimpering； and two pretended （as dogs
will） to have broken legs。 This man carried a cocoa…nut； and on my
indicating that I was thirsty； he hesitated； and then turning back；
signed to me to follow him into his house。 This was rare luck！
Within the cactus screen； which is fully ten feet high； there is a
graveled area； on which the neat…looking house stands； and growing out
of the very thirsty ground are cocoa palms； bananas； bread fruit； and
papayas。 There are verandas on each side of the doorway with stone
benches； the doorway and window frames are hung with 〃portieres〃 of
split reeds； and a ladder does duty for door steps。 The interior is
very dark； and divided into several apartments。 As soon as I entered
there was a rush as if of bats into the darkness； but on being
reassured； about twenty women and boy and girl children appeared； and
contemplated me with an apathetic stare of extreme solemnity。 Remember
the mercury was 92 degrees； so the women may be excused for having
nothing more than petticoats or loose trousers on in the privacy of
their home； the children for being in a state of nudity； and the man
for being clothed in a loin cloth！ As I grew used to the darkness I saw
a toothless old woman smoking in a corner； fanned by two girls； who； I
believe； are domestic slaves。 Near one of the window openings a young
woman was lounging； and two others were attentively removing vermin
from her luxuriant but ill…kept hair。 Mats and bamboo pillows covered
the floors； and most of the inmates had been rudely disturbed in a
siesta。
I was evidently in the principal apartment； for the walls were
decorated with Chinese marine pictures； among which were two glaring
daubs of a Madonna and an Ecce Homo。 There was also a rude crucifix；
from which I gather that this is a Roman Catholic family。 There were
two teapots of tea on a chair； a big tub of pommeloes on the floor； and
a glazed red earthenware bowl full of ripe bananas on another chair。 A
sort of sickle； a gun； and some bullock gear hung against the wall。 In
the middle of the room there was a sort of trap in the floor； and there
was the same in two other apartments。 Through this all rubbish is
conveniently dropped。 A woman brought in a cocoa…nut； and poured the
milk into a gourd calabash； and the man handed me the dish of bananas；
so I had an epicurean repast； and realized that I was in Cochin China！
They were courteous people； and not only refused the quarter dollar
which I pressed upon them； but gave me a handkerchief full of bananas
when I left them； being pleased； however； to accept a puggree。
The neat gravel area； the covered walls； and neatly tiled roof； the
lattice work； the boards suspended from the door…posts； with （as I
have since learned） texts from the Chinese Classics in gold upon them；
and the large establishment； show that the family belongs to the upper
class of Anamites； and leave one quite unprepared for the reeking；
festering heap of garbage below the house； the foul； fetid air； and
swarming vermin of the interior； and the unwashedness of the inmates。 I
bowed myself out； the gate was barred behind me； and in two minutes I
had lost what I supposed to be my way； and having left the maze of
cactus…walled paths behind； was entangled in a maze of narrow village
paths through palms and bananas； flowering trees covered with creepers
and orchids； and a wonderful profusion of small and great ferns。
Getting back into the cactus hidden village I found groups of pretty；
dark…skinned children； quite naked； playing in the deep dust； while
some no bigger were lounging in the shade smoking cigars； lazily
watching the clouds of smoke which they puffed out from their chubby
cheeks。
Finding my own footsteps in the deep dust； I got back to a pathway with
a monstrous bamboo hedge on one side； and a rice…field on the other； in
which was a slimy looking pond with a margin of pink water…lilies； in
which a number of pink buffaloes of large size were wallowing with much
noise and rough play； plastering their sensitive hides with mud as a
protection against mosquitoes。
With some difficulty； by some very queer paths and with much
zigzagging； I at last reached Cholen；* a native town； said to be three
or eight miles from Saigon； and was so exhausted by the fatigue of the
long walk in such a ferocious temperature that I sat by the roadside on
a stump under a huge tropical tree； considering the ways of ants and
Anamites。 Children with brown chubby faces which had never been washed
since birth； and； according to all accounts； will never be washed till
death； stood in a row； staring the stare of apathy； with a quiet
confidence。 They had no clothes on； and I admired their well…made forms
and freedom from skin disease。 The Mongolian face is pleasant in
childhood。 A horde of pariah dogs in the mad excitement of a free
fight； passed； covering me with dust。 （By the way； I am told that
hydrophobia is unknown in Cochin China。） Then some French artillerymen；
who politely raised their caps； then a quantity of market girls；
dressed like the same class in China； but instead of being bare…headed；
they wore basket hats； made of dried leaves； fully twenty…four inches
in diameter； by six in depth。 These girls walked well； and looked
happy。 Then a train of Anamese carts passed； empty； the solid wooden
wheels creaking frightfully round the ungreased axles； each cart being
drawn by two buffaloes； each pair being attached to the cart in front
by a rope through the nostrils； so that one driver sufficed for eleven
carts。 The native men could not be said to be clothed； but； as I
remarked before； the mercury was above 90 degrees。 They were； however；
protected both against sun and rain by hats over three feet in
diameter； very conical； peaked at the top； coming down umbrella