of enormous size； and often of exquisite workmanship； in the poorer
class of silver； and in the richer of gold jeweled with diamonds and
rubies。 The sarong of the men does not reach much below the knee and
displays loose trousers。 They wear above it a short…sleeved jacket； the
baju； beautifully made； and often very tastefully decorated in fine
needlework； and with small buttons on each side； not for use； however。
I have seen one Malay who wore about twenty buttons； each one a diamond
solitaire！ The costume is completed by turbans or red handkerchiefs
tied round their heads。
In these forest kampongs the children； who are very pretty； are not
encumbered by much clothing； specially the boys。 All the dwellings are
picturesque； and those of the richer Malays are beautiful。 They rigidly
exclude all ornaments which have 〃the likeness of anything in heaven or
earth；〃 but their arabesques are delicately carved； and the verses from
the Koran； which occasionally run under the eaves； being in the Arabic
character； are decidedly decorative。 Their kampongs are small； and
they have little of the gregarious instinct； they are said to live
happily； and to have a considerable amount of domestic affection。
Captain Shaw likes the Malays； and the verdict on them here is that
they are chaste； gentle； honest and hospitable； but that they tell
lies； and that their 〃honor〃 is so sensitive that blood alone can wipe
out some insults to it。 They seclude their women to a great extent； and
under ordinary circumstances the slightest courtesy shown by a European
man to a Malay woman would be a deadly insult； and at the sight of a
man in the distance the women hastily cover their faces。
There is a large mosque with a minaret just on the outskirts of
Malacca； and we passed several smaller ones in the space of three
miles。 Scarcely any kampong is so small as not to have a mosque。 The
Malays are bigoted； and for the most part ignorant and fanatical
Mohammedans； and I firmly believe that the Englishman whom they respect
most is only a little removed from being 〃a dog of an infidel。〃 They
are really ruled by the law of the Koran； and except when the Imaum；
who interprets the law； decides （which is very rarely the case）
contrary to equity； the British magistrate confirms his decision。 In
fact； Mohammedan law and custom rule in civil cases； and the Imaum of
the mosque assists the judge with his advice。 The Malays highly
appreciate the manner in which law is administered under English rule；
and the security they enjoy in their persons and property； so that they
can acquire property without risk； and accumulate and wear the
costliest jewels even in the streets of Malacca without fear of robbery
or spoliation。 This is by no means to write that the Malays love us；
for I doubt whether the entente cordiale between any of the
dark…skinned Oriental races and ourselves is more than skin deep。 It is
possible that they prefer being equitably taxed by us； with the
security which our rule brings； to being plundered by native princes；
but we do not understand them； or they us； and where they happen to be
Mohammedans； there is a gulf of contempt and dislike on their part
which is rarely bridged by amenities on ours。 The pilgrimage to Mecca
is the great object of ambition。 Many Malays； in spite of its expense
and difficulties； make it twice； and even three times。 We passed three
women clothed in white from head to foot； their drapery veiling them
closely； leaving holes for their eyes。 These had just returned from
Mecca。 The picturesqueness of the drive home was much heightened by the
darkness； and the brilliancy of the fires underneath the Malay houses。
The great gray buffalo which they use for various purposesand which；
though I have written gray； is as often pinkhas a very thin and
sensitive skin； and is almost maddened by mosquitoes； and we frequently
passed fires lighted in the jungle； with these singular beasts standing
or lying close to them in the smoke on the leeward side； while Malays
in red sarongs and handkerchiefs； and pretty brown children scarcely
clothed at all； lounged in the firelight。 Then Chinese lamps and
lanterns； and the sound of what passes for music； then the refinement
and brightness of the Government bungalow； and at ten o'clock my chair
with three bearers； and the solitude of the lonely Stadthaus。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER X
Malacca MediaevalismTiger StoriesThe Chinese CarnivalGold and
GemsA Weight of SplendorNew…Year RejoicingsSyed AbdulrahmanA
Mohammedan PrincessA Haunted CityFrancis XavierThe Reward of
〃Pluck〃Projects of Travel
STADTHAUS； MALACCA； January 23。
Malacca fascinates me more and more daily。 There is； among other
things； a mediaevalism about it。 The noise of the modern world reaches
it only in the faintest echoes； its sleep is almost dreamless； its
sensations seem to come out of books read in childhood。 Thus； the
splendid corpse of a royal tiger has been brought in in a bullock…cart；
the driver claiming the reward of fifteen dollars； and its claws were
given to me。 It was trapped only six miles off； and its beautiful
feline body had not had time to stiffen。 Even when dead； with its
fierce head and cruel paws hanging over the end of the cart； it was not
an object to be disrespected。 The same reward is offered for a
rhinoceros； five dollars for a crocodile （alligator？） and five dollars
for a boa…constrictor or python。 Lately； at five in the morning； a
black tiger （panther？） came down the principal street of Malacca； tore
a Chinamen in pieces； and then； scared by a posse of police in pursuit；
jumped through a window into a house。 Every door in the city was
barred； as the rumor spread like wildfire。 The policemen very boldly
entered the house； but the animal pinned the Malay corporal to the
wall。 The second policeman； a white man； alas！ ran away。 The third； a
Malay； at the risk of his life； went close up to the tiger； shot him；
and beat him over the head with the butt of his rifle； which made the
beast let go the corporal and turn on him； but fortunately he had
scarcely got hold of him when he fell dead。 The corporal is just coming
out of hospital； almost completely paralyzed； to be taken care of for
the rest of his life； and the man who rescued him has got promotion and
a pension。 A short time ago a fine young tiger was brought alive to
Captain Shaw； and he ordered a proper cage to be made； in which to send
him to England； telling Babu； the 〃double Hadji；〃 to put it into the
〃godown〃 in its bamboo cage； but the man put it into the kitchen； and
in the morning the cage was found broken into pieces； the kitchen
shutters torn down； and the tiger gone！ There was a complete panic in
Malacca； people kept their houses shut； and did not dare to go out even
on business； and not only was the whole police force turned out in
pursuit； but the English garrison。 It was some days before the scare
subsided and the people believed that the beast had escaped to its
natural home in the jungle。
A tropical thunderstorm of the most violent kind occurred yesterday；
when I was quite alone in the Stadthaus。 The rain fell in sheets；
deluges； streams； and the lightning flashed perfectly blue through a
〃darkness which could be felt。〃 There is a sort of grandeur about this
old Dutch Stadthaus； with its tale of two centuries。 Its smooth lawns；
sloping steeply to the sea； are now brilliant with the gaudy
parrot…like blossoms of the 〃flame of the forest；〃 the gorgeous
Poinciana regia； with which they are studded。 Malacca is such a rest
after the crowds of Japan and the noisy hurry of China！ Its endless
afternoon remains unbroken except by the dreamy； colored； slow…moving
Malay life which passes below the hill。 There is never any hurry or
noise。
So had I written without prescience！ The night of the awful silence
which succeeded the thunderstorm was also the eve of the Chinese New
Year； and Captain Shaw gave permission for 〃fireworks〃 from 7 P。M。 till
midnight。 The term 〃fireworks〃 received a most liberal construction。
The noise was something awful； and as it came into the lonely
Stadthaus； and red； blue； crimson； and greenish…yellow glares at short
intervals lighted up the picturesque Malacca steam and its blue and
yellow houses； with their steep red…tiled roofs and balconies and
quaint projections； and the streets were traced in fire and smoke；
while crackers； squibs； and rockets went off in hundreds； and cannon；
petards； and gingalls were fired incessantly； and gongs； drums； and
tom…toms were beaten； the sights； and the ceaseless； tremendous；
universal din made a rehearsal of the final assault on a city in old
days。 At 1 A。M。； every house being decorated and illuminated； the
Chinese men began to make their New Year's calls； and at six the din
began again。 After breakfast the Governor drove out in state to visit
the leading Chinese merchants； with whom he is on terms of the most
cordial amity； and at each house was offered two dishes of cakes；
twelve dishes of candied and preserved fruits； mandarin tea （the price
of this luxury is from 25s。 to 45s。 a pound）； and champagne from the
finest Rhenish vineyards！ At eleven all the Chinese children came forth
in carriages shaped like boats； turned up at both ends； painted red and
yellow； and with white…fringed canopies over them。 These were drawn by
servants； and in the case of the wealthy； a train of servants
accompanied each carriage。 It was a sight worthy of a fabled age。 The
wealth of the East in all its gorgeousness was poured out upon these
dignified and solemn infants； who wore coronals of gold and diamonds；
stuffs of cloth of gold brocade； and satin sewn with pearls； and whose
cloth…of…gold shoes flashed with diamonds！
During the morning four children of a rich Chinese merchant； attended
by a train of Chinese and Malay servants； came to see Mrs。 Shaw。 There
were a boy and girl of five and six years old； and two younger
children。 A literal description of their appearance reads like fiction。
The girl wore a yellow petticoat of treble satin （mandarin yellow） with
broad box plaits in front and behind； exquisitely embroidered with
flowers in shades of blue silk； with narrow box