broad box plaits in front and behind； exquisitely embroidered with
flowers in shades of blue silk； with narrow box plaits between； with a
trail of blue silk flowers on each。 Over this there was a short robe of
crimson brocaded silk； with a broad border of cream…white satin； with
the same exquisite floral embroidery in shades of blue silk。 Above this
was a tippet of three rows of embroidered lozenge…shaped 〃tabs〃 of
satin。 The child wore a crown on her head； the basis of which was black
velvet。 At the top was an aigrette of diamonds of the purest water；
the centre one as large as a sixpenny…piece。 Solitaires flashing blue
flames blazed all over the cap； and the front was ornamented with a
dragon in fine filigree work in red Malay gold set with diamonds。 I
fear to be thought guilty of exaggeration when I write that this child
wore seven necklaces； all of gorgeous beauty。 The stones were all cut
in facets at the back； and highly polished； and their beauty was
enhanced by the good taste and skilful workmanship of the setting。 The
first necklace was of diamonds set as roses and crescents； some of them
very large； and all of great brilliancy； the second of emeralds； a few
of which were as large as acorns； but spoilt by being pierced； the
third of pearls set whole； the fourth of hollow filigree beads in red；
burned gold； the fifth of sapphires and diamonds； the sixth a number of
finely worked chains of gold with a pendant of a gold filigree fish set
with diamonds； the seventh； what they all wear； a massive gold chain；
which looked heavy enough even by itself to weigh down the fragile
little wearer； from which depended a gold shield； on which the Chinese
characters forming the child's name were raised in rubies； with fishes
and flowers in diamonds round it； and at the back a god in rubies
similarly surrounded。 Magnificent diamond earrings and heavy gold
bracelets completed the display。
And all this weight of splendor； valued at the very least at 40；000；
was carried by a frail human mite barely four feet high； with a
powdered face； gentle； pensive expression； and quiet grace of manner；
who came forward and most winsomely shook hands with us； as did all the
other grave gentle mites。 They were also loaded with gold and diamonds。
Some sugar…plums fell on the floor； and as the eldest girl stooped to
pick them up； diamond solitaires fell out of her hair； which were
gathered up by her attendants as if they were used to such occurrences。
Whenever she moved her diamonds flashed； scintillated； and gave forth
their blue light。 Then came the children of the richest Chinaman in
Malacca； but the little gentle creatures were motherless； and mourning
for a mother lasts three years； so they were dressed in plain blue and
white； and as ornaments wore only very beautiful sapphires and diamonds
set in silver。
Do not suppose that the Chinese New Year is a fixed； annual holiday
lasting a day； as in Scotland； and to a minor extent in England。 In
Canton a month ago active preparations were being made for it； and in
Japan nine weeks ago。 It is a 〃movable feast；〃 and is regulated by the
date on which the new moon falls nearest to the day 〃when the sun
reaches the 15 degrees of Aquarius；〃 and occurs this year on January
21st。 Everything becomes cheap before it； for shopkeepers are anxious
to realize ready money at any loss； for it is imperative that all
accounts be closed by the last day of the old year； on pain of a man
being disgraced； losing all hope of getting credit； and of having his
name written up on his door as a defaulter。 It appears also that debts
which are not settled by the New Year's Eve cannot thereafter be
recovered； though it is lawful for a creditor who has vainly hunted a
debtor throughout that last night to pursue him for the first hours
after daybreak； provided he still carries a lantern！
The festival lasts a fortnight； and is a succession of feasts and
theatrical entertainments； everybody's object being to cast care and
work to the winds。 Even the official seals of the mandarins are
formally and with much rejoicing sealed up and laid aside for one
month。 On the 20th day of the 12th month houses and temples are
thoroughly washed and cleaned； rich and poor decorate with
cloth…of…gold； silk embroideries； artificial and real flowers； banners；
scrolls； lucky characters； illuminated strips of paper； and bunches of
gilt…paper flowers； and even the poorest coolie contrives to greet the
festival with some natural blossom。 There is no rest either by night
or day； joss…sticks burn incessantly； and lamps before the ancestral
tablets； gongs are beaten； gingalls fire incessantly； and great
crackers like cartridges fastened together in rows are let off at
intervals before every door to frighten away evil spirits； there are
family banquets of wearisome length； feasts to the household gods；
offerings in the temples； processions in the street by torch and
lantern light； presents are given to the living； and offerings to the
dead； the poor are feasted； and the general din is heightened by
messengers perambulating the streets with gongs； calling them to the
different banquets。 When the fortnight of rejoicing is over its signs
are removed； and after the outbreak of extravagant expenditure the
Chinese return to their quiet； industrious habits and frugal ways。
Just as this brilliant display left the room； a figure in richer
coloring of skin appearedBabu； the head servant； in his beautiful
Hadji dress。 He wore white full trousers； drawn in tightly at the
ankles over black shoes； but very little of these trousers showed below
a long； fine； linen tunic of spotless white； with a girdle of orange
silk。 Over this was a short jacket of rich green silk； embroidered in
front with green of the same color； and over all a pure white robe
falling from the shoulders。 The turban was a Mecca turban made of many
yards of soft white silk； embroidered in white silk。 It was difficult
to believe that this gorgeous Mussulman； in the odor of double
sanctity； with his scornful face and superb air； could so far demean
himself as to wait on 〃dogs of infidels〃 at dinner； or appear in my
room at the Stadthaus； with matutinal tea and bananas！
This magnificence heralded the Datu Klana； Syed Abdulrahman； the
reigning prince of the native State of Sungei Ujong； his principal
wife； and his favorite daughter； a girl of twelve。 It has been decided
that I am to go to Sungei Ujong； and that I am to be escorted by Mr。
Hayward； the superintendent of police； but； unfortunately； I am to go
up in the Datu Klana's absence； and one object of his visit was to
express his regret。 This prince has been faithful to British interests；
and is on most friendly terms with the resident； Captain Murray； and
the Governor of Malacca。 During his visit Babu interpreted； but Miss
Shaw； who understands Malay； said that； instead of interpreting
faithfully； he was making enormous demands on my behalf！ At all events；
Syed Abdulrahman； with truly exaggerated Oriental politeness； presented
me with the key of his house in the interior。
This prince is regarded by British officials as an enlightened ruler；
though he is a rigid Mussulman。 His dress looked remarkably plain
beside that of the splendid Babu。 He wore a Malay bandana handkerchief
round his head； knotted into a peak； a rich brocade baju or short
jacket； a dark Manilla sarong； trousers of Mandarin satin striped with
red； a girdle clasp set with large diamonds； and sandals with jeweled
cloth…of…gold straps。 His wife； though elderly and decidedly plain
looking； has a very pleasing expression。 She wore a black veil over her
head； and her kabaya； or upper garment； was fastened with three diamond
clasps。 The bright little daughter wore a green veil with gold stars
upon it over her head； and ornaments of rich； red gold elaborately
worked。 The Datu Klana apologized for the extreme plainness of their
dress by saying that they had only just arrived； and that they had
called before changing their traveling clothes。 When they departed the
two ladies threw soft silk shawls over their heads； and held them so as
to cover their faces except their eyes。
There are now sixty…seven thousand Malays in the British territory of
Malacca； and the number is continually increased by fugitives from the
system of debt…slavery which prevails in some of the adjacent States；
and by immigration from the same States of Malays who prefer the
security which British rule affords。
＇The police force is Malay； and it seems as if the Malays had a special
aptitude for this semi…military service； for they not only form the
well…drilled protective forces of Malacca； Sungei Ujong； and Selangor；
but that fine body of police in Ceylon of which Mr。 George Campbell has
so much reason to be proud。 Otherwise very few of them enter British
employment； greatly preferring the easy； independent life of their
forest kampongs。＇
The commercial decay of Malacca is a very interesting fact。* Formerly
fifty merchantmen were frequently lying in its roads at one time。 Here
the Portuguese fleet lay which escorted Xavier from Goa； and who can
say how many galleons freighted with the red gold of Ophir floated on
these quiet waters！ Now； Chinese junks； Malay prahus； a few Chinese
steamers； steam…launches from the native States； and two steamers which
call in passing； make up its trade。 There is neither newspaper； banker；
hotel； nor resident English merchant； The half…caste descendants of the
Portuguese are； generally speaking； indolent； degraded with the
degradation that is born of indolence； and proud。 The Malays dream away
their lives in the jungle； and the Chinese； who number twenty thousand；
are really the ruling population。
＇*Linscholt； two hundred and seventy years ago； writes：〃This place is
the market of all India； of China； and the Moluccas； and of other
islands round about； from all which places； as well as from Banda； Java；
Sumatra； Siam； Pegu； Bengal； Coromandil； and India； arrive ships which
come and go incessantly charged with an infinity of merchandises。〃＇
The former greatness of Malacca haunts one at all times。 The romantic
exploits of Albuquerque； who conquered